Rome
We arrived in Rome after a really long train ride (ie. a night train plus day train). Things were not looking good. In Ventimiglia, we were unable to make any reservations, and we were unsuccessful in the train station as well. We tried a few nearby hostels, but eventually we realised that unless we wanted to spend 100,000 lire for a night (way above budget) we had nowhere to sleep. Well, a really sketchy man gave us a card for place that was 40,000, but we didn't really trust him. After a slice of pizza, time for a really quick change of plans. After placing a few phone calls-during which I got to use my pidgin Italian-we determine that there was place in Assisi. So off we went-rather sadly I may add.
The Train
Not another one of those train rides? Yup. As our guidebook confirmed, the local train was as slow as molasses. Not only that, we weren't really sure where to get it. There was some mention of changing trains, in one book, but the cities we passed were all very industrial and very dark. Reluctantly, we got off, living some members of the GRS behind, and waited for the train to Assisi. Having come an hour late, the next train in was an express train-for which we needed a supplement. But we got on anyway, not wanting to wait for another hour. It ended up being much longer. Although the train was very nice, we couldn't really relax. Finally, it stopped, but there were no signs at the station. And suddenly I saw it, Assisi, prompting the famous, "This is Assisi, really, I'm not kidding". A mad rush ensued, but we were too late. The train took off, with us on it. At the next town, we got out, mistakenly thinking it was Perugia, but it was actually a suburb. We started to get really worried. It was close to eleven, we were at a tiny station in the middle of nowhere, and we'd had no dinner. Fortunately, there was one last train to Assisi. Was this the end of our problems?
Assisi
So we finally made it back. A quick phonecall to the hotel, and we'd be there. Ummm, not quite! After a confusing phonecall, we realised that the hotel was 5km away. You see, the train station in Santa Maria degli Angeli, 5km away from Assisi. The cathedral on the hill was nice, but far away. Plan b: call a taxi. Sometimes a splurge is necessary. Except when there are only two taxi companies in town, and no one picks up. We knew we had problems when we heard the phone ringing right outside the booth. Plan C: Sleep at the train station? NO! We found a hotel supposedly 200m away, and negotiated a price with them on the phone. All systems ready to go, until we couldn't find the hotel. A nice lady gave us directions and 800m later, we were there. Never was a bed nicer.
So, the next morning, we transferred to a cheaper hotel, paid, and then realised it was Sunday. Hmmm, Sunday, no banks open, and we had no money. And half a box of cookies. Tired but happy, we made our way to Assisi, walking of course. Breakfast was five cookies each-and these were the small, crackery kind. Yes, the experience was sort of religious. We located a bankomat in Assisi, and discovered that only Eugene's card worked. Slightly problematic. We then donned pants over our shorts and saw the sights. Not that many, due to earthquake damage. Beautiful nonetheless. And the scenery was gorgeous. Almost biblical, in that it looked like the background from old Italian religious paintings. Not quite a coincidence, perhaps? Around one, we finally ate and made phone calls, including "Yoriko in Italia". And not to be forgotten, had lots of wonderful gelatto (aka icecream). I love Italian icecream. Plenty of GRS members present as well. And let's not forget dinner. The most delicious pizza. One really can't compare Italian pizza to the food they claim it to be here in the US. I try to forget about it, while I'm here. But I do still dream about pizza. Anyway, that was Assisi.
Another Train
This must have been the perfect train ride. Everything worked out. We took a train to some town. Initially we thought we had to get out at Perugia, but a quick glance at the schedule told us otherwise, so on to the O-town. From there, an express (non-supplement) train to Florence. In Florence, a perfect connection to Trieste. In Trieste, just enough time for sandwiches with yummy prosciutto and then Ljubljana. By the way, the train ride to Trieste is really scenic. And that was Italy. Short, frustrating at times, but well worth the visit.
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