Page 2

This Page Is Dedicated To All The Equine Lovers That Desire To Perfect, Pursue, Endure, Learn & Live Through The Ongoing Process of Training Our Horses. Over The Years, Namely 30 Years Of Professional Training and 20 Prior Years of Just Plain Practicing, I've Come To The Conclusion That You Never Stop Learning and Relearning How To Teach Our Beloved Horses. Chyrese and I Hope You Will Gain New Insite and Knowledge From This Page To Guide and Help You and Your Horses.
Sincerely,
RaNae Bangerter & Chyrese Bangerter Nielsen
(Trainers at*RaeKen Arabians & Pintos*)

By: RaNae Bangerter/Chyrese Nielsen
Imprinting is one of the most important actions you will take with your mature horse, foal, yearling, etc. What is the definition of imprinting?
Imprinting is=Any physical, emotional, or mental conditioned response taught to the horse.
Imprinting can be a successful way of conditioning your horse to outside influences that will mold your horse's reactions and temperment for the rest of the horse's life. Improper imprinting, however, can be an owners worst nightmare that will mold your horse's reactions and temperment for the rest of the horse's life. Proper imprinting is extremely valuable when done carefully.
REMEMBER; Horses are reactive flight animals.
REMEMBER; Horses do not know right or wrong.
REMEMBER; Horses do not reason.
REMEMBER; Horses never forget what they've been taught whether it is proper or improper imprinting.

EXAMPLES
#1. Foal imprinting=Repetitive caressing on the legs, ears, face, hip, belly, muzzle, etc. to create trust in the foal to human touch in areas that will later be used for cinches, saddles, bridles, clipping, trimming, shoing etc.

#2. Sacking Out Imprinting=A controlled situation whereby a gunny sack or something similar is used to rube over the complete body of the horse to accustom the horse to any article that may simulate the sack and touch the horse's body in the future. A desensitizing training procedure.
*Please Note*: If this particular imprinting is done with fast, frightening motions as to create the imprint in the horse's mind that the sack is a threat instead of a peaceful object, then you have improperly imprinted the horse, creating an imprint that this sack is danger. The horse will not forget the improper imprinting & may react traumatized each time a piece of clothing or sack is moved near the horse.

#3. Comfort Zone Imprinting=The comfort zone represents a place of comfort or peace where the horse is safe.
EXAMPLE: If a horse refuses to load in a horse trailer then the place of comfort and peace will be made to be inside the horse trailer not outside the horse trailer. Firm encouragement to enter the horse trailer makes being outside less desirable than being inside. When the horse is inside the firm discipline to go inside the trailer stops. Now being inside the trailer is more comfortable than being outside the trailer. You have created a comfort zone inside the horse trailer.
EXAMPLE: Teaching a horse to wow or hault with a stud chain under the chin in a controlled round pen. Use of the chain teaches an uncomfortable condition that occurs when the horse refuses to hault. It only takes a few reminders with the stud chain during the voice command, WOW!, until the horse is soon stopping with the voice command only with no use of the stud chain. You have created a comfort zone conditioned response. The horse is at peace when he haults with no reminder from the stud chain.
We create comfort zones each and every time we teach our horses. The comfort zones are where the horse has achieved obedience and is left to feel peaceful with his new learned actions. Comfort zones create a bond of trust between horse and trainer/owner that causes a good understanding between them.
Please remember that rewards for good behavior are a must so that the horse knows he has done well.

By: RaNae Bangerter/Chyrese Nilesen
This is the time in your young horse's life where you prepare the horse for the day that the horse will carry a rider with the understanding/imprinting that it will need to be a safe, receptive individual.

SCHOOLING PROGRAM:

#1. Hopefully the horse has already been completely touch imprinted all over the body.

#2. By this time the horse should have been imprinted to having each hoof/leg worked with and has had it's hooves trimmed.

#3. If the horse has not been imprinted to clipper trimming now is the time to teach this. Rubbing the clippers along the horses neck and body, down the legs, across the back etc., while the clippers are off is the first step. Turning the clippers on may cause a reaction of concern in the horse so allow the horse time to become comfortable with the sound of the clippers. Now proceed slowly rubbing the clippers along the horses neck/body, down the legs, across the back etc. to imprint the horse to the knowledge that the clippers are not a threat. With patience, repetition and calming words the imprint is successful and clipping may proceed.{*Please note: In over reactive horses I use a stud chin chain to remind the horse that he needs to stand still while being worked with. Do not over do the chin chain reminder. It is just to get the horses attention and control}

#4. Long line round ring lunging is taught during this time. The round pen training is very valuable. During this time the horse learns to WOW! on command with a jerk of the long line accompanied with the stud chin chain. The horse learns to back on command with a jerk on the lead line with the stud chin chain in place. The horse learns clockwise and counter clockwise balance in a forward motion. Right and left leads are established. Respect and obedience to the trainer/owner is achieved while not yet on the horse's back. {*Please note: This is a time to imprint not abuse the animal. Make careful analysis as to how the animal is responding to your schooling so the imprinting is successful and creates a comfort zone for the horse where the horse has learned well.}

#5. Stud chin chain training. One of the many purposes of the chin chain is to imprint the animal with acceptance of the chin chain so that later when a bit and chin curb chain is used the horse will not over react. Obviously the comfort zone is when the pressure of the chain is not needed and voice commands achieve the desired response.

#6. Training with driving lines can begin at this time. The wither and girth girdle is used with a snaffle bit, cavason, driving lines in a round pen area to teach/imprint the horse to giving to the bit, turning from presser on the mouth, trotting on command, wowing on command, and backing on command from presser on the mouth. Always use voice commands not just physical force with the driving lines so that the animal learns the voice commands. How nice to have this training/imprinting taught by the time you are ready to mount this horse in a year or two.

#7. Voice command training. This is the time when your horse learns English. Voice commands are much more desireable as an end result than physical force in achieving desired responses.

#8. Saddle training. If the horse is unable to bear the weight of a saddle then a bareback pad is perfect to teach the horse to accept having something on it's back and being cinched. If the horse is able to bear the weight of a saddle then imprint the horse slowly teaching it that the saddle is not a tiger on it's back. Allow the horse to first familiarize it's self with the saddle. Allow the horse to smell the saddle. Rub the saddle on the horse's neck and body. Slowly place the saddle on the horse's back. If the horse bucks the saddle off do not be surprised. Try again.

#9. Cinch training. When cinching down the saddle do not reach under the horse's belly so as to have your head underneath the animal. Use a wire hook to catch the girth and then pull it to you. Do not pull the cinch too tight to begin with. Give the horse a chance to get use to the new pressure around his girth. I've found that some horses think they can't breath the first time they are cinched and react by trying to lunge forward or lie down. Don't be alarmed. Just use the stud chin chain and remind the horse to stand up. Once they have accustomed themselves to the idea of having presser around their girth section they soon will easily handle being saddled.

#10. Accepting the snaffle bit and bridle. If you have successfully imprinted the horse to having it's head touched/ears touched/muzzle touched then this will be a snap. Place the top of the bridle in your right hand craddled in your thumb. Raise the bridle to the top of the horse's head in front of it's face while opening the bit part of the bridle to enter the horse's mouth with your left hand. A tickle finger works great to tickle the tongue of the horse with your left hand which causes the horse to open it's mouth and you can place the bit inside. With steady pressure on the top of the bridle pulling it upward the bit is in place and the top of the bridle can now be put on the horse's head.

#11. Why a cavason? I am a firm believer in using a cavason on all horses from the time they have a bridle and bit introduced to them. A figure 8 cavason is the very best. It keeps the horses upper mouth closed and keeps the bit in place at the bottom. This imprints your horse that it can never open it's mouth against the bit. A cavason gives you a controlled horse in the mouth. I always use a cavason even on my aged horses. The only time a cavason is not permitted is in a class "A" showing situation. A good trainer is never without a cavason. Nobody likes a horse with it's mouth gapping open to come off the bit.

This is only a few suggestions for training/imprinting your horse during the yearling to saddle years. Do all you can to help prepare your horse for it's future under saddle in a controlled positive training/imprinting/comfort zone environment.

By: RaNae Bangerter/Chyrese Nielsen
Total trust is the key to a succesful riding experience. If the horse trusts you that you are not a predator but a companion it will accept this procedure readily. At this stage I have found that it is best to be in a round pen. It is mandatory to have two trainers working together. One person works at the horse's head keeping the horse calm and controlled. He must reasure the horse that the new rider is not a threat. He must keep the horse standing quietly allowing the rider to slowly board to lay over the horse's back. The second person will carefully mount the horse laying over it's back to give the horse a chance to accept the feel and weight. The trainer at the horse's head begins moving the horse in a circular direction, (not in a straight line). This allows the horse to see the rider on it's back and helps keep the horse from charging forward. After three or four revolutions stop and allow the rider to completely mount the horse. The rider should remain in a low profile position as many horses fear objects above their heads. The trainer at the horse's head once again moves the horse in a circular direction until the horse becomes accepting of the rider on it's back. If you view this from the horses' point of view it might be easier for you to understand. Horses are flight animals, meaning they run from danger. You could very easily be considered a predator, mountain lion or something simlar in the mind of the horse. His natural instinct is to get you off his back. This is where the trust between trainer and horse is imparitive. Your training should not take on the imprint of being a predator. Being calm and quiet will help your young horse trust the ride and soon he will follow your commands. I use this method each time the horse is riden for the first 4 or 5 times. You don't want any negative imprinting to happen so using two handlers is best. Riding your horse for the first time can be a rewarding experience for you and your horse. Remember that horses want to be our companions. It's up to us to provide that companship for them. Everything you do from this point on will imprint your horse to be the best riding mount you could ever wish for.
Do be careful with the horse's mouth. Use steady, easy, light reining with very little pressure. Don't be heavy handed. Horses are meant to have soft mouths, not just as young horses but their whole lives. If you have the chance please read "The Man Who Listens To Horses" by Monty Roberts. You'll be glad you did. I realized after I read his book and watched his video that I had been training my riding horses very much the same way Mr. Roberts trains, for years.

Info