| by Mike
"Doc" Cobine Last update - Mar. 10, 2006 |
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Buying a Trailer for Your Corvette
Securing Your Car to the Trailer
There is always the struggle of whether to drive or tow your Corvette to shows and events. This is not about the merits of either, but simply some information about towing that will be helpful so that you can tow safely. The primary purpose of a towing rig is to get your car and all of your gear to and from the place you are going. It is nice if it is comfortable, is pretty and attracts attention, and is nice with homey surroundings at the show or race, but all of this is a waste of time and money if you end up sitting on the side of a road halfway there or if the rig breaks loose and the trailer goes into a ditch or into another car. Equally so, your trip is ruined if you find the whole combination stops about halfway inside the car in front of you. Read all of this carefully before you buy anything and consider that you are driving a vehicle combination of potentially anywhere from 8000 lb. to 15,000 lb. down the highway at speeds of 65 mph or more. This is not like driving the Corvette or some 2500 lb. import car. You do not stop on a dime or corner like on rails. This is serious business and should be approached that way.
Driving such a vehicle is not covered here, as there are many things to consider. Stopping distances, turning radiuses, and lane widths are all more than a standard vehicle and must be considered. Practice helps, so you should get as much practice as possible, preferably in times of low traffic. The last thing you want to do is start off driving for the first time in rush hour traffic.
While this is mainly about Corvettes, the information contained is also good to review for other cars, as the principles of towing are the same, regardless of the car. Actually part of this article is comprised from questions the owner of an Integra asked regarding towing a Formula Ford race car. While a Corvette and a Formula Ford have little in common, many of the basic ideas are the same.
A Corvette is a heavy car. Never mind that it is fiberglass, most Corvettes weigh between 3000 lb. and 3600 lb. As such, they must be handled the right way or your trailering experience can be very traumatic and expensive.
You need a trailer that is capable of hauling at least 4000 pounds. If you are racing or autocrossing, you may be hauling more than just the car, for example, tires and wheels, fuel jugs, and tools may be needed. You may wish to add air compressors and generators and they mean more weight to haul. A single axle trailer is far too light and can be far too unstable to haul a Corvette on so consider only dual axle trailers, no matter how good the deal is on the single axle.
Terms you need to clarify when buying a trailer are trailer length, trailer weight, and trailer load. Usually, a trailer is described as 15 foot, 25 foot, and so on. This refers to the bed length, not the overall length. A 15 foot open trailer will have a bed that is 15 foot long and a tongue on front that adds from 3 to 4 feet, making the overall length 18 or 19 feet. This is important to know so you do not exceed length restrictions in some states and when you are checking the room for storage of the trailer. Many people advertising a used trailer will mistakenly use the overall length. Be sure to clarify this length so that you do not waste time looking at trailers that are too short.
The trailer weight is the empty weight of the trailer. It is not the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR is the maximum weight of the load and the trailer combined.
The load weight of the trailer is the amount of weight the trailer will hold. This is different from the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) which is the total of the load and the weight of the trailer combined. A trailer with a GVWR of 5000 lb. can hold a 3000 lb. load if the trailer empty weighs 2000 lb.
Open trailers have many advantages over enclosed trailers. The first is the ease at loading and tying the car down. You can get to the car from any angle to reach tie downs. Second, open trailers are lighter, and offer less drag when driving along at 65 mph on the highway. This means less strain on the tow vehicle and better gas mileage. Third, open trailers are more easily hidden in the back yard next to a fence or hedge than a big enclosed trailer, meaning it is less likely you have to find a separate storage area in which to keep the trailer.
Most open trailers come in one of two basic styles. One is the open flatbed with a solid deck or bed. The other is the type with a center opening, having two ramps on each side for the car's tires. Both have advantages and disadvantages. If you haul items other than a car occasionally, like parts to a swap meet, furniture for moving, or materials connected with your job, the flatbed has an advantage.
If you are solely into hauling cars, and either race or autocross, the open center can have an advantage in that it permits you better access when tying the car down and if you need to work on the car, such as changing transmissions or driveshafts.
Enclosed trailers have the advantages of being an extra garage. When you are not racing, showing or whatever with the car, you can leave it inside where it is protected from prying eyes, kid's tricycles, and the weather. It also offers this protection on the highway and at motels on the way. You also find that all extra gear and tools you take can be stored inside and not take valuable space inside your tow vehicle. This is sometimes a curse, as frequently that big empty box is viewed by some as a reason to carry many extras like lawn chairs, ATVs, air conditions, bicycles, and more. Of course, the more you carry, the more the combination weighs.
With many sports cars like the Corvette, ground clearance is rather small. So getting the car on the trailer can be awkward as the angle of the ramps can cause the chassis to hang up on the back edge of the bed. You can get around this by having very long ramps so the angle is less, parking the trailer wheels in a dip or ditch so the back of the bed is closer to the ground, jacking the tongue high to drop the rear of the bed, or buying a trailer with a beaver or dove tail design. These feature the rear section angled towards the ground so the distance of the rear of the trailer is closer to the ground. This is very helpful with low slung cars and Corvettes with sidepipes. It does mean that the rear 3 or 4 feet is angled and cannot be used for hauling other items, if you use the trailer to haul items other than cars. This design can also reduce the trailer's ground clearance, so if you have to travel rough roads or in a hilly area such as a race track or fairgrounds, you could get the trailer stuck by the rear end.
In many race car trailers, a piece of diamond plate aluminum is hinged to the top of the ramp doors, and extra high bumper pads on the outside of the door, so that the ramp door edge is several inches off the ground and the plate folds out to reach the ground. This makes a much longer ramp than the standard ramp door, and allows cars with little clearance (like most race cars) to drive in without getting stuck on the angle.
Until recently, most personal trailers were what are now called tag-alongs. This is the standard hitch on the back of the tow vehicle near the bumper and the towing point is a few feet behind the rear axle. Some instability is inherent in this design but typically acceptable. With much larger trailers being used, the fifth wheel design has become very popular. Some of these were also called gooseneck trailers, mainly open flatbed trailers that have a tongue that arches up and into the truck, resembling a goose's neck. The fifth wheel is similar to the tractor trailer method of attachment, where a section of the trailer hangs over the tow vehicle and rests on a ball that is mounted above the rear axle of the tow vehicle. This is the most stable method and provides better weight capacity. A drawback is that a pickup truck is required and usually one that is a 1 ton rating. With the ball in the center of the bed, the bed of the truck must remain empty of any load you might haul there. You cannot use a camper shell on the truck with a fifth wheel.
No matter which trailer you chose, you must have the proper safety equipment. Check the laws in your state. One place to check is http://www.rvadvice.com/rvtowlaw.html where you can find laws for each state regarding lengths, widths, weights, and required equipment. Brakes are required by law in most areas for trailers over 3000 lb. This is often the Gross Vehicle Weight, not the empty weight. So while the open trailer may only weigh 1200 pounds, parking a 3000 pound Corvette on it means that brakes are mandatory in many states.
You should have the safety break-away switch that activates the brakes should the trailer break away from the hitch. You must have safety chains that keep the trailer behind you should the hitch break.
Most today come with brakes. However, not all do. You will find many "bargain" trailers that come from states like Missouri and Oregon which do not have brake requirement laws. Some states have a 3000 lb., 5000 lb., or 10,000 lb. weight limit of an empty trailer where brakes are required. As such, some builders use these to build cheap trailers with no brakes legally to suck you in with a cheap price and then catch you on all the "options".
Don't fall into the trap of buying a cheap trailer without brakes, because you are required to have them in other states. If you live in Illinois, for example, you might run over to Missouri to buy a cheap trailer. But when you get home, you are illegal. You may never get caught, but if you should be in an accident and you don't have brakes, you can forget any chance of being innocent. You were operating illegally and besides the costs of the accident, you can expect fines for illegal vehicle operation and equipment. This may not sound bad, but in some states, the trailer falls into commercial or second division vehicle laws, and the fines are much stiffer than having a taillight out on your car.
You will find in checking the state law statutes that usually the brake requirements are for ALL WHEELS, not just two. What is common on open trailers is to have brakes only on one axle. Often, people with no design experience will put that on the rear axle. If legal to have brakes on one axle only, they should be on the front axle. The reason is that if the trailer ever separates from the tow vehicle, and the break-away braking system has to be used, the front axle has the most effect and is the only axle that will always be in contact with the ground when the tongue is on the ground. To check, remove the jack from the tongue and set the tongue on the ground. Which set of tires are still in contact with the ground? Which have the most weight on them?
These tactics are used often on the Internet. "Trailer - $795. Options - New Tires-$200 extra, Brakes-$100 per axle extra, ramps-$75 extra" You see these are not a bargain. Your $800 trailer quickly becomes $1300 or more. Be wary of these baiting techniques.
Technically, if caught, your trailer can be impounded immediately. Think about that if you are towing your restoration project home. Suddenly, it ends up in an impound yard, not your garage or at the restoration shop.
Whether you chose electric brakes or hydraulic surge brakes will be a personal choice. Each has advantages. Surge brakes require no power from the car so can be hauled by different vehicles easily but only work going forward. If the car brakes fail, the surge brakes cannot be activated to slow you down. They must be pinned to prevent activation when backing the trailer uphill. Electric brakes will work like your regular brakes and can be used separately if there is a brake failure on your car. They are more complicated and require an electric controller to be installed in the car. They also require a connection to the car wiring and they require a separate battery in the trailer to make the break-away system work. Some controllers use a hydraulic connection to your brake system. Some use a transducer attached to the brake pedal. There are some new designs that use a motion detector to detect slowing of your vehicle to apply the brakes on the trailer.
Hitches use a rating system such as Class I, Class II, Class III, and Class IV. Class I are lightweight bumper hitches for very light boat or motorcycle trailers, typically rated at 2000 lb. Class II is typically rated at 3500 lb. Class III and IV are typically rated at 5000 lb. without the equalizer and rated at 10,000 lb. with it. A more recent class is Class V, rated for 14,000 lb. See your hitch dealer for specific weight ratings as some manufacturers vary their ratings. Be sure to use a hitch ball of the appropriate weight rating for the hitch.
Most car trailers need the Class III or IV receiver type hitch and the equalizer package. An equalizer platform is made of a receiver type hitch, a special hitch with a ball and sockets for weight equalizing (tension) bars, and tension adjusters on the trailer. Weight is equalized on the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle by a leverage effect through tightening the tension bars.
These are made by Reese®, Draw-Tite®, Valley®, Quality-S®, and others. I will not go into the merits of any brand but I will say that one of my Quality-S equalizer bars broke on the second time I used it and they would not replace it. I later found out they had manufacturing defects with the trunions and still would not replace it. Since then, another Quality-S equalizer bar has broken the trunion. The Quality-S hitch has had the cups for the equalizer bars break. You may draw your own conclusions about a company that does not stand behind manufacturing defects.
My Draw-Tite and Reese systems have never had a problem. Friends using Valley systems report the same good service.
If you haven't figured it out, I have no use for Quality-S products.
With an open trailer, you will need typically either the 500 lb. or 750 lb. bars. With an enclosed trailer, you will need the 1000 lb. bars. You may wish to use the sway prevention slider bars. These attach to the hitch and adjust the tension on a slide to keep the trailer tracking straight rather than swinging back and forth. This sway, or fishtailing, can be very hazardous as you try to keep the rig going straight. Sway is mainly caused by improper weight management, although large boxy trailers can get it from crosswinds. See the section on Tow Vehicles for more information.
The ball is very important as it is the only thing that keeps your trailer hooked to the tow vehicle. Balls come in three main sizes of 1-7/8, 2, and 2-5/16 inch diameter. You usually need a 2 inch ball for most open trailers and the 2-5/16 ball for most enclosed trailers. A 1-7/8 ball is for utility and small boat trailers and will not handle the weight of a car trailer and car. Typically, a 1-7/8 inch ball is rated at 2000 lb. A 2 inch ball can be rated to 5000 lb. A 2-5/15 inch ball can be found in 6000 and 10,000 lb. ratings. Regardless of that information, the weight rating is stamped into the top of the ball and should be checked before buying as some manufacturers use other values and may be less than typical.
The ball can be the weakest link so you must be sure it is strong enough for the task, or you will find the trailer traveling on its own. If the ball breaks, you will be lucky if it merely strands you on the side of the road. It will more likely allow the trailer to crash into your tow vehicle or run loose down the road to crash into something else.
Safety chains are required to keep the trailer with the tow vehicle should the ball break or the coupler come loose. Some hitches have loops to attach the chains to but there is a chance that the need for the chains is because the hitch failed so connecting to the hitch would do nothing. It is better to have the chains connect to the frame platform or to the frame of the tow vehicle itself.
Do not just connect them to the bumper, as most bumpers will rip off with little force. Connecting to the bumper will not hold the trailer.
Often you see chains dragging on trailers. These tear up the road and slowly grind at the links, weakening them. Be sure the chains are positioned so they do not drag. Also be sure there is enough length that you can turn the full amount without the chains binding. One trick to having the chains long enough to turn and yet be held off the ground is to use a heavy duty rubber bungee strap to hold the chains up.
With a Corvette, there is no question that you must have dual axles because of the weight. If you are reading this because of concern for hauling other cars, then you must consider the weight of the car you are hauling. Single axles work well with light loads and light cars, such as formula race cars and some sprint cars. They are less stable and more prone to fishtailing if the loading is not right. If the tongue is too light or heavy, handling is much more affected.
Most commercial axles come in either a 3500 lb. rating or a 6000 lb. rating. If you have a commerially built trailer, the odds are you will have either a 7000 GVWR or a 12,000 GVWR, although often many manufacturers underrate their capacities so as to ensure the trailer is never stressed 100 percent.
If you are hauling multiple cars, such as some very long trailers, the need for three axles is quickly evident in the weight that must be handled. Most trailers are manufactured today with these thoughts in mind and few will try to get by cheap with inadequate weight handling.
The worst mistake most people make is loading the weight in the wrong places and having the tongue either much too heavy or far too light. Either way is an invitation to an accident. We have already discussed equalizer bars but they are an aid, not a cure. Their intent is to equalize the weight carried by the tow vehicle and has nothing to do with the relationship of tongue weight to trailer weight.
The big thing is having the weight where it should be to start with. With some trailers, you have enough room to move the car forward or backward to get the weight set. You want to have about 10 to 15 percent of the total weight on the tongue and hitch. Check with the trailer manufacturer or manuals to see what they recommend first. If that information is not available, use the 10 to 15 percent value.
With a Corvette on an open trailer for a total of 4500 lb., you need 450 to 675 lb. on the tongue. With a Corvette in an enclosed trailer for a total of 6000 lb., you need between 600 and 900 lb. on the tongue. You can also see this is not a job for a lightweight tow vehicle.
Too much weight can make the tow vehicle sway and lift the front wheels so that steering and braking are affected plus possibly straining the capacities of the hitch. Too little weight can make the trailer fishtail and cause severe handling problems at any speed over a crawl.
There are a few ways to determine how well you have the weight balanced.
First you must find a public scale and weight the trailer with everything inside that you normally haul. Then you have a total weight. After that, get a scale to read the tongue weight. You will have to disconnect the tow vehicle from the tongue and have the trailer level to read it accurately. Then move the car and equipment to where the tongue weight is in the 10 to 15 percent range. (With an 8000 lb. trailer and load, the tongue will be 800 lb. or more, so a bathroom scale is not good enough, unless you use the lever system described below.) Mark where the car is located and hook the trailer back to the tow vehicle without the equalizer bars. Measure how high the hitch is from the ground with the trailer connected and this will be a good guide that you are close in future loading. Then use the equalizer bars to pull the trailer level again.
Another method is to estimate the weights. You should know the weight of the car and the trailer empty so you can use a bathroom scale to weigh everything you put inside or on the trailer. Then you will know the approximate total weight.
If you do not have a scale, measure how high the tow vehicle hitch is from the ground. Hook the trailer to the tow vehicle without the equalizer bars. Measure how high the hitch is from the ground with the trailer connected. If it is more than a couple of inches lower than the empty height, move the load until the height is only about 2 inches lower. This will be a fair guide that you are close in future loading. Then use the equalizer bars to pull the trailer level again.
If after you use any of these methods, you experience any swaying of the trailer, first check that all tires, axles, and hitch connections are good on both the trailer and the tow vehicle. Then try moving the car forward or backward slightly on the trailer to eliminate the sway. When it is eliminated, mark that spot and use it in future loading.
The first method is by far the best.
If you don't have or can't find a suitable scale, use a lever and a bathroom scale to find out the weight on the tongue where the ball hooks up. The typical bathroom scale has a 300 pound capacity so a 3:1 lever can allow you to measure up to 900 pounds of tongue weight. A 4:1 lever allows you to measure 1200 pounds to measure. After setting up the lever and scale, move things inside or on the trailer to get the weight to the 10 percent value.
Tires are a critical item on any trailer. If you buy a new commercially built trailer, most of these problems are solved for you. If you buy a used trailer or one built by a home or small builder, you need to be more concerned. Recently, a technique of soem utility and car trailer builders is to sell with used tires. I have a lot of reservations on buying one like this for several reasons:
This technique is used often on the Internet in auctions such as eBay wher eyou win a trailer at a cheap price but end up paying much more before it is all over. Many trailer "wholesalers" who advertise in mass ads in the magazines and grocery newspapers are selling new trailers with used tires.
Always keep them inflated to full values and never run them low to soften the ride. This creates severe heat and usually tread separation.
Tires come in various ratings. You should stick with a trailer rated tire of a heavy load range. These are designed to haul heavy loads on the open highway. Using passenger car tires is a poor practice and one that frequently finds the owner on the side of the road with a shredded tire. Be sure the load rating of each tire is the same as the weakest link in a chain still holds true. Also, be sure that the maximum load rating of all tires is much higher than the load you are hauling. For example, if you have a 1500 lb. trailer and a 3000 lb. Corvette, you have 4500 lb. load. The tires must be 1200 lb. rated each to handle it and they will be stressed almost 100% so tire failure is probable. It would be much better to have a 1500 lb. tire rating as this is a 6000 lb. capacity and gives you a good margin of safety as the tires are at only 75% of their maximum capacity.
Some older trailers used mobile home axles and tires. There is basically nothing wrong with this, as many have done so very successfully for many years, but you must keep the tires inflated to the full value and not run them low to soften the ride. This is true for any tire, actually. If you have problems with the Mobile Home tires, as indicated by the MH in the size, you can get a Load Range F Low Boy tire that fits those rims. This tire is designed for highway usage and long hauls and will hold up to the use on a car trailer much better.
Newer designs run either LT or ST rated tires. Be sure to check the load rating of these tires as some trailers use a Load D rated tire that is good only for 2250 lb. maximum and thus you could be too close to maximum loading for good tire life.
In all cases, you do not want to be near 100% of your weight capacity. Being at 75% is good and at 50% even better. The closer you are to the maximum capacity, the better the chance of tire failure. The farther you are from it, the better the chance of carefree trailering, at least from the standpoint of the tires.
Most trailers today are built with all necessary wiring and lighting required by law. However, if you purchase used or a home-built, the lighting may not be up to standards. You should start by checking the laws of your state for the requirements.
Most states have the same basic requirements, so by complying with one, you probably comply with others. You need two brake lights on rear, one left and one right. These can also double as turn signals. You need two taillights at the same height, usually between 14" and 36" from the road. With enclosed trailers, you also need upper corner lights and a set of three on top in the center on rear and on top in front. Rear lights must all be red and front lights must all be amber.
Reflectors are generally required, usually two on rear, one at each corner on the side, and two on front. Again, red on the rear half and amber on the front half.
Now for practical reasons, you may want to include extra lights from the minimum, as people sometimes hit barns. If your trailer is long, you may wish to add some eye level amber lights on the side to prevent people hitting it. Reflectors at the same locations are also helpful. On the rear, you may wish to add extra reflectors. Many add the three marker lights in the center even on open trailers to ensure that other drivers do see it. Many trailers use four brake lights instead of two, so that if one burns out, you still have another on that corner.
Interior lighting in enclosed trailers are often 12 volt camping style lights, one in rear and one in front, where a work bench may be. Many add 120 volt lights, such as fluorescent lights, for work at night while attached to event or home electrical outlets.
Wiring is often a problem on trailers. Use good quality automotive electrical wiring for all 12 volt lights. Multiple wire cable is available to bring the connections of the lights to the trailer plug. Be sure to have extra length at the plug so that it can reach the tow vehicle without being in a bind when making sharp turns. Also be sure there is not so much that it drags on the ground. Attach the cable to the tongue and trailer with cable ties and cable holders. Electrical tape dries out and eventually lets the wiring fall.
For 120 volt wiring, be sure you understand electrical wiring principals or have someone skilled in household wiring handle this. You may wish to check with an electrician, as the 120 volt wiring could be lethal if done wrong. Most desire having a couple of lights inside and sometimes one on the side for work under an awning. Also, weather-proof outlet boxes on the side come in handy as well as a couple of well-placed outlets inside near the work bench.
Obviously, you cannot just park the car on the trailer and haul it down the road, although some people treat it that way. You need quality tie downs to secure the car both front and rear so the car does not move. Most people do not use enough. In an accident, I had one 3000 lb. tie down snap from the force. Fortunately, the other one held. You should always use two from the rear and two from the front. Do not use 1 inch wide motorcycle straps found in discount stores to hold down a car. They may say they have a 2000 lb. rating, but you need a 2 inch wide 3000 lb. rated strap on each corner to be safe with a Corvette. The 2 inch wide straps can be rated from 3000 lb. to 10,000 lb. so be sure to check when buying. Often they are not marked so a used strap is unknown. Assume it is the lower 3000 lb. rating.
In recent years, SCCA and other racing bodies have begun requiring seat belts to be replaced due to ultraviolet damage. This has brought more information to the public on how UV destroys nylon webbings. If you tow on an open trailer, you should consider rewebbing the tie downs on a regular basis. If you tow with an enclosed trailer, you may still need to replace them depending on the level of UV they are exposed to. Never just leave the straps lay in the sun. If you have any doubts, contact the manufacturer of your tie down straps and get their advice on replacement cycles.
Jim Milstead who used to produce commercial webbings reports that some dyes can be very harmful to the webbing besides the UV. Also, bleaches can damage them when you are trying to clean them. As such, clean only with mild soap and water or according to any instructions that are included with your straps. When in doubt, call the manufacturer. Don't accept the word of someone selling at a table in a swap meet as odds are they only buy and resell. Go to the manufacturer for advice.
Most good quality 1 inch wide motorcycle straps are rated at 1000 lb. only. Remember you are considering saving $50 or so and jeopardizing your $20,000 or more Corvette. The straps on either end must exceed the total weight of the vehicle. Some experts recommend 1-1/2 times the weight of the car for the straps, so a 3000 lb. car times 1-1/2 = 4500 lb. of straps minimum. If you have a 2000 lb. car, one 2 inch wide 3000 lb. strap is the minimum to use. It is better and safer to use two for 6000 lb. of holding power.
Straps should be tight and connected so they do not pop off from the car bouncing. Pull them tight enough to pull the suspension slightly tight. You should have a strap at each corner of the car, connected to something solid such as the frame down to a solid mount on the trailer such as a crossmember or a properly installed tie down ring. The strap should be between 30 and 60 degrees angle to the floor. Do not tie the car straight down as you need to support the car from forces forward and backwards. Each strap should go from a point on the car outward to the trailer, so that they are 15 to 45 degrees to the axis of the car. These angles are not fixed rules but general enough that the main concern is not to have straps straight down or straight back.
When using ratchet type tie downs, use care in tightening. Too much can generate enough force to bend parts. Some early users of the ratchet type straps were antique car enthusiasts who found that they could generate enough force to bent the frames of pre World War II cars. Remember that if you have 500 pound per inch springs on each wheel, you have generated 1000 lb. of force in the vertical direction if you compress it one inch. If you calculate the vectors, you may discover you have 1500 to 2000 lb. of force along the strap, which can severely damage parts.
Do not tie the car down by the suspension members. If you use only one strap in each direction, the force generated on the parts is far above what they were designed for. A 3000 lb. car generates in 1G braking only 3000 lb. of force in the A-frames maximum. Since this is divided by two wheels, that is only 1500 lb. in each A-frame. The 2000 lb. you generated above is like having the car at more than maximum braking for several hours that you drive to the event.
Tying this way to the suspension can destroy bushings, bend parts, and break parts. In my early days, I bent an A-frame pivot bar by doing just this. Tying to the suspension also lets the car bounce up and down, just like it is driving on the road. Many use an axle strap for the rear axle. This can also tear up rear suspension bushings. Most racers have learned that this bouncing uses up their shocks and springs so that replacement is more frequent. Tying to the frame and compressing the suspension prevents most of the bounce.
With a Corvette, the problem is on both ends. The front has few good places to tie to, since fan shrouds restrict access to the main front cross member. In the rear, the spare tire carrier restricts you to seeing only the half shafts, camber rods, and spring. None of these are good choices. Tying to the half shaft can tear up differential bearings, u-joints, and wheel bearings, depending on where you tie. Camber rods (strut rods) bend easily. The spring is held by four bolts that are not designed for any lateral forces.
The best places to tie to a 1963 to 1982 Corvette are the front cross member
and the rear frame section. It is often hard to be a strap around the front
cross member, but it can be done. Use two straps going forward, with one going
to the left and the other to the right. If not, on the front frame
extensions are oblong holes that a hook or a T-shaped hook can be attached.
In the rear, two places are the first choices. The cross member under the rear of the seats has a oblong hole that was used by the factory shippers. A T-shaped hook fits in here and provides a good attachment. These T-shaped hooks are available through wrecker supplies and some trailer supply companies. You can also find these at www.northerntool.com/, www.truckntow.com and www.awdirect.com. If you can't reach there, the cross member behind the differential (not the one the differential is attached to) has a large hole at each end that you can get a hook into.
Remember that any place that a strap wraps around a frame member, you should use a reinforced axle strap to prevent chafing and cutting. Check the straps to ensure they are not cutting and replace when they do.
Some tie down companies are making tie downs that strap over the tires and to the trailer. These are very good for light, delicate vehicles like Model T Fords or Formula Fords and Continentals, where connecting to the frame of the car and pulling tight is hard to do or would damage the frame. But in heavier vehicles, tie to the frame and compress the suspension slightly to prevent the bounce.
Most auto insurance policies do not cover trailers if they are larger than a single axle utility trailer or boat trailer. Check your policy carefully. If you need a rider or your policy does cover it, the policy usually covers it only with liability insurance, meaning the insurance will pay for what your trailer damages of other people's property, but not what it damages of yours. If you want coverage for the trailer and the contents inside, there are some insurance specialty companies that are offering contents and trailer coverage. Many states do not address this issue in their mandatory insurance requirements, but it does not take your responsibility for any damage away. If your trailer breaks loose, you could do serious damage to other people, cars, and property as anywhere from 4500 lb. to 8000 lb. of Corvette and trailer go hurtling along at 60 mph or more.
While most view their trailer as this "thing" that just sits in back of the garage or house, awaiting each trip readily, the truth is that you need to perform routine maintenance on it or you can suffer problems on the road.
Wheel bearings must be greased routinely. While they are not as bad as boat trailers in that they do not get submersed in rivers and lakes, they do haul a very heavy load. Check the manufacturer's recommendations first and if you have none, grease them every 25,000 miles or once a year. This may be overkill, but it is better to have greased the bearings too often than not enough.
Do not use the "bearing buddy" type system, as you need to disassemble the bearing assembly each time and check the bearings and races for wear or damage. Simply connecting a grease gun to a grease fitting in a cap will blow out the rear grease seal and tend to simply fill the bearing with too much grease. You will not remove the old dirty grease and you will not be able to examine the bearings for wear or damage. Haven't you wondered why you see so many boat trailers broken along the highway?
Lights must be checked each time you hook up to go anywhere. The vibrations can break light filaments easily and you need to check as you leave and often such as gas stops along the trip. It only takes a minute or two and saves the aggravation of having someone hit you because your brake lights or turn signals were not working. Late at night as you are rolling to some far away show or race, some police officers will view a large trailer as suspicious, especially if it has Florida tags and is in a northern state. No one in their right mind would use such a set up for hauling drugs but you fit the profile and lights not working only attract them to stop you that much more.
After hooking the lights up, check that the marker lights are all on. Check each turn signal and the brake lights with someone in the tow vehicle as the brake lights could cause the others to go out if you have a wiring problem. Be sure to correct any light that is out immediately and carry spares.
The most common problem with lights is a poor ground. For that reason, always be sure your wiring harness has a ground wire between the tow vehicle and the trailer. Do not depend on the ground through the hitch and the ball. My Quality-S hitch provides virtually no ground due to its constant build up of rust in the receiver.
While we have already discussed tires, much of the wear on tires is from sitting. The sun beats down on them and the rubber is attacked by the ultraviolet radiation. Air leaks slowly and the heat dries them. Always check the tires for cracking and correct air pressure before any trip. Cover them if possible or park the trailer so that they are in the shade when storing. Since many require high pressures, such as 85 psi or 100 psi, you may have to travel to a service station to get air. If possible, do this while the trailer is empty or do it at slow speeds and short distances if loaded.
Before any trip, you should check these and be sure all are tight. Since some trailer tires cannot be balanced, and since many simply are not balanced, vibrations can loosen them. If you are on a long trip, it doesn't hurt to check them at each gas stop to be sure they haven't loosened. It may seem over-cautious, but it is a lot easier to check than walk a mile or so along the highway for a wheel that came off.
The tow vehicle is one of the most misunderstood vehicles around. It must be strong enough to handle the load, powerful enough to move the load at normal speeds, and stable enough to do this safely. While there are some people who will hook a 30 foot long travel trailer to an old Datsun pickup truck, this is not a wise thing to do. Some of the questions below will help you decide what you need. Most of this is in response to questions about hauling a Formula Ford race car, but the principles still apply to those hauling Corvettes. With a Corvette, remember that you must handle 3000 to 3500 lb. of car and from 1500 to 3000 lb. of trailer, depending on what you have. This dictates a truck with adequate engine power and suspension weight ratings. You cannot tow a Corvette with an Integra. I have seen Corvettes towing Corvettes, but in my opinion, that is not very wise either due to braking and weight handling needs.
Maybe. Check what the manufacturer's recommended towing rating is and how much they advise. For a FF, you only need a light trailer (no need for the 3 axle 10,000 lb. construction trailer). Still other things to consider, how many miles are on your car, the condition of it (brakes, transmission, radiator, engine, shocks, springs, etc.). All of these get strained a bit more by towing than normal driving.
See below about trucks and rentals to figure out if you want to even bother.
Yes. Helper springs probably, too. Of course, the Integra is probably too light to haul anything anyway.
It depends on what you haul, but just the FF could go on a fairly light trailer, with a single axle, and maybe weighing around 1000 lb. This brings the weight to 1850 lb. A tire rack and a tool box all adds weight, and unfortunately, in the wrong spot as typically these are added on, not designed into, the trailer and thus there is extra tongue weight which is weight that pushes your bumper into the pavement, and the front wheels of the car off the ground. Some compensate by having the car as far back as possible, but you must maintain about 20% to 30% of light trailer's weight on the tongue or the trailer will be very unstable to pull (wanders). And aluminum trailers are not necessarily lighter. The Ryder aluminum trailer is 1760 lb. The U-Haul steel version is 1650 lb., the last time I checked these.
Not if the axle is rated at least 2000 lb. or more for a total trailer load of 2000 lb. such as the light trailer and Formula Ford. Typical 3" axles are 3000 lb. Also check the rating of the tires. You do not want to exceed or even be close to the maximum rating. If you have a 1100 lb. tire on each side, a 2000 lb. trailer load is close and can cause premature tire failure, especially in summer. Better to replace the tires with a 1500 lb. rating. If you are hauling a big car, like a Mustang, Camaro, or Corvette, you definitely need a dual axle trailer.
Depending on the tow vehicle. A single axle and FF behind your car needs brakes, considering you add 2000 lb. to a 2500 lb. vehicle and your brakes now have to stop 4500 lb., far above what they were designed for. If you tow it behind a 3/4 ton vehicle, with a empty weight of 4500 lb. and a GVWR of 7500 lb., you now have a 6500 lb. vehicle with a 1000 lb. to spare, so brakes would not be needed. If you are towing any trailer that the combined load and trailer weights exceed 3000 lb., many states require the brakes by law.
If the tow vehicle is too light for the load or marginally close, it can make towing a real pain and take all the enjoyment out of racing. Probably your best bet is to forget the Integra as a tow vehicle unless you decide to tow karts, and go to a vehicle designed for towing.
Many are stuck with vehicle restrictions due to apartment rules, parking limitations, etc. and so they have a daily car and can't have a tow vehicle. Most daily cars today are extremely poor as tow vehicles, unless you use a Suburban as a daily driver.
The best bets are to get a separate tow vehicle, one set up to handle the load of the trailer (even as light as this FF will be) and also handle the chores of hauling your tools, spares, and race gear. It sounds simple at first, just hauling a race car to the track, but as time goes on, you add spare parts, tires, rain tires, gas jugs, tool boxes, bigger tool boxes, lawn chairs, awnings, car covers, jacks, stands, and so on.
This brings you to things like older full size station wagons (no new ones built anymore), SUVs, vans, pickup trucks, motor homes, and such. What you get depends on your needs and budgets.
Typically, people get SUVs to use as daily driver and occasional tows. The SUV will work on a light car like the formula cars and even on some light sedans like IT race cars, but on larger cars, like a Camaro or Corvette, the typical SUV is not built heavy duty enough.
If you rent or lease your vehicle, be sure to check the section on the The "No-Tow" Clause below. You may be in for a surprise.
Vans have lots of storage and buying an older one can be had cheap. They provide inside protection of gear at motels and at the track from rain, weather, and prying eyes and fingers. They also provide the "poor man's motorhome" for camping at the track. Available in 1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton ratings, they can easily tow a lightweight FF and can tow heavier vehicles, depending on the size of the van. Basically, you can use a 1/2 ton for light cars and light trailers, 3/4 ton for heavy cars and open trailers, and 1 ton for enclosed trailers. I have seen older Dodge Maxi Vans (the extended ones) modified to have the FF inside the van, so there was no trailer.
Basically, there are four types of vans available. These are the custom or conversion van, the cargo van, the window van, and the cube van.
The conversion vans with bay windows and extended roofs can be either a good choice of a poor choice. Conversion vans are often quite different from one manufacturer to another. So to have an enjoyable time, or at least one that doesn't cause headaches or a divorce, you need to research your potential conversion van thoroughly before buying. Some are poor tow vehicles except for light loads, since the custom interiors can be quite heavy and use most of the load rating capacity of the van. One could work fine with a FF and light trailer, but would be more strained with a dual axle and an A/S Camaro or a stock Corvette. Most suffer from lack of interior room to store large items like tires, tool boxes, and spare parts. The extended roof versions do make a nice area to spend the night and give room to easily change in and out of a drivers suit. With addition of helper springs, these can tow a Corvette on an open trailer, but they should be avoided if attempting to tow an enclosed trailer unless they are ordered new to do just that.
Many Chevy versions use the 305 engine for economy and it is too small for ease in towing. If the conversion van is a Chevy and comes with the 700R4 transmission and 350, the highest gear allowable is the 3.08 axle. You should attempt to get one with the 3.42 axle. If it comes with the three speed transmission (Turbo 350 or Turbo 400), you really need the 3.42 although I did tow successfully for years with the 3.08 but I had low profile tires.
Follow this and you should be in good shape, as a nice conversion van for the family to ride in can make a lot of the pain go away.
Cargo vans typically have no side or rear windows or very few. Typically these are used by plumbers, electricians, the telephone company, and so on. They offer privacy if camping in them and plenty of wall space for hanging shelves to store parts. They are not the best for families, as the kids and spouse like to see out rather than ride in a closed box. These were the basis of most custom vans of the '70s and '80s so you can add windows, sofas, seats, and so on as needed to suit your needs in towing without comprising the weight limits.
Window vans are the factory available vans with the side and rear windows. Typically, these have nice interiors, but not as nice as the conversion vans. Often these have been used by businesses to haul people or car pool and should be checked carefully around the springs and shocks. For a few years, these were not in popularity and can be harder to find for some years.
Cube vans are typical known as commercial vans, box vans, and delivery trucks. These have lots of room and can be set up as a permanent storage and shop for the tools, gear, and even the FF. The problem in some neighborhoods is they look very commercial. They can eliminate the need for the trailer, though. Typically these have at least 1 ton ratings and are geared to haul heavy loads.
Most SUVs seem to be good with nice interiors, 4wd, etc., but typically they are sprung light for a nice ride so the load of a trailer makes the back sink low. Typically, they are with small engines for gas mileage and have a hard time hauling the weight. Exceptions are older (full size) Blazers, Broncos, Ram Chargers, and Suburbans.
Suburbans are confusing in that their 10, 15, and 1500 series (1/2 ton) are actually 3/4 ton truck chassises and the 20, 25, and 2500 series (3/4 ton) are actually ton truck chassises so they are capable of hauling heavy loads. Their counterpart GM/Chevy trucks are 1/2 ton for the 10, 15, and 1500 series, 3/4 ton for the 20, 25, and 2500 series, and 1 ton for the 30, 35, and 3500 series. They are not cheap usually. Four wheel drive is available on Suburbans and can give you added security in areas where you may be off-road at a show or race.
The full size Blazers, Broncos, and Ram Chargers perform well with Corvettes and like size cars on open trailers. The weight of an enclosed is usually too much.
Pickups are about the same as vans if a cover is used, but not as secure. Prices vary but pickups can be found cheap. There are a multitude of options available in pickups. You can get them in 1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton versions, with 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive, with club or extended cabs, with crew cabs (2 seats, 4 doors), and with dual rear tires and you can get them in combinations of these options. The 1 ton Crewcab Duallies are superior tow vehicles and can use a fifth wheel for gooseneck trailers for very stable towing. These are typically what you see towing 30 foot to 45 foot trailers with two cars in them and some living quarters in the front of the trailer.
Motorhomes are great to have for eating, sleeping, and so on, but notoriously slow at hauling down the road and costs are much more. If you think the economy of a truck with a 6000 lb. load is poor, try a 4 mpg motorhome pulling that same load. Still, you have no motel bills and you have your home with you all day long at the track or show. And anyone who has ever made an all-night tow to some show or track can appreciate stretching out on a bed rather that huddle against a pillow on a door while another driver drives down the road. At the show or track, you can nap in comfort while others seek non-existent shade. Typically, motorhomes have generators to provide electricity for air conditioning, tools, air compressors, fans, microwave, and more.
Towing a car and trailer requires more than the econo, high mileage EFI 4 cylinder. You have easily added 2000 lb. of weight with a FF and single axle trailer and you have added 4500 lb. easily or more if you are hauling a Corvette on an open trailer. If you go to an enclosed trailer, you will find that loading tools, gear, spares, and more will bring you quickly to the 8000 lb. area of weight. You must have an engine capable of producing some torque.
The first choice is easy, you need a V8. Under the right conditions and the right vehicles, you can get away with a V6 but you are limiting yourself in many ways. The next choice is size. If you plan on driving this vehicle daily or even often, a 350 cid is not a bad choice. It can haul a large trailer and still do so reasonably. While once people towed with engines of 283, 289, and 327 cid, the tow vehicles of those days were also lighter and they towed at much lower speeds. The Chevy 305 is a bit marginal and the 350 should be considered as a minimum size instead. Any engine sold as an economy engine will not serve you well in towing.
If you are only into long hauls across the country, and you are not into driving this vehicle every day, then move up to the 454 or 460 as they will be more at home on the long highway hauls. The V10 Dodge engine is suppose to be designed with just this in mind, providing lots of torque, but I have not heard from anyone using one to do so.
You can also consider the diesel engine options. They offer lots of power and good economy, which is not part of the 454 or 460 gas engine option. They are sluggish and don't have the snap most are used to with a gas engine, but they do have advantages of long life, good economy (relative to hauling trailers) and very good power. Opinions of fellow racers are that the new Dodge Cummings diesel is perhaps the best with Ford second. The GM/Chevy diesel is considered a poor third.
Once most people felt that the only transmission to use was a manual. This was based on the automatics of the era being too fragile when the load of a trailer was put on them. Today, that is not true. Most now consider the automatic to be the better choice, for several reasons.
The torque converter in an automatic acts like a variable gear, permitting better take off response with a heavy load. In a manual, you might have to slip the clutch to get rolling and this is harmful to the clutch life. In an automatic, it is designed to slip until you are moving.
Automatics typically have higher rear axles than manuals. This works for higher top end and better fuel economy, if that isn't an oxymoron with trailering. Fuel mileage with a trailer is considered high if you get near 10 mpg.
There is less shock between shifts, as an automatic slides from gear to gear and the shock is absorbed in the hydraulic systems. In a manual, all shocks are transmitted directly.
Anyone can drive an automatic and for numerous reasons, someone else may be driving the tow vehicle.
With Chevy transmissions, three automatic transmissions are available which can be considered. These are the Turbo 350, the Turbo 400, and the 700R4. Gearing on the Turbo 350 and 400 are similar but the 400 is much stronger. In past experience, the 350 has worked fine, once an RV style shift kit and a transmission cooler is installed. With all of these, you should change fluid and filter and install a cooler.
The 700R4 and its latest electronic versions feature an overdrive that allows you to get decent gas mileage when not towing the trailer. However, almost everyone I have ever spoken with recommends to shift out of OD into D and stay there when towing. Those who have not tend to experience high transmission temperatures and failure. While you can find places to rebuild the Turbo 350 and Turbo 400 in the $300 to $500 range, the 700R4 is in the $1500 range. You don't want to burn one up needlessly.
A 454 with tons of torque does not require the same gearing as a 350 or a 305. Likewise, a 350 and 305 do not require the same. Much to many people's surprise, the 305 is being used in work trucks hauling not only heavy loads but often dragging construction trailers behind, often loaded with the Bobcat and similar mini-scoop shovels. However, in view of what happened 30 to 40 years ago, no one should be surprised. Back then, White Trucks used the Chevy 327 gas engine in some single axle cab over tractors (big trucks) which pulled semi-trailers, usually in city traffic. With the right gearing, you can do almost anything.
When you have a 3.73 and a 16" wheel with a 31.5" tire, the actual effective ratio is the same as a 3.08 and 15" wheel and a 26" tire. You can see that tire size greatly affects the effective gearing. Many 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks having the 8 lug 16 or 16.5 inch wheels have tires ranging from 30 to 32 inches in diameter. As shown in the chart, tire size combination is as important as gear selection.
| First Rear Gear | eff. gear with this tire size | eff. gear with this tire size | Second Rear Gear | |
| 3.73 | 3.609678 | 3.496875 | 3.08 | |
| 30 | 31 | 32 | 26 | tire diameter |
| Miles per hour | RPM's | |||
| 11.96378 | 12.36257 | 12.76136 | 12.55679 | 500 |
| 23.92756 | 24.72514 | 25.52273 | 25.11358 | 1000 |
| 35.89133 | 37.08771 | 38.28409 | 37.67037 | 1500 |
| 47.85511 | 49.45028 | 51.04546 | 50.22715 | 2000 |
| 59.81889 | 61.81285 | 63.80682 | 62.78394 | 2500 |
| 71.78267 | 74.17542 | 76.56818 | 75.34074 | 3000 |
| 83.74645 | 86.53799 | 89.32954 | 87.89752 | 3500 |
| 95.71023 | 98.90057 | 102.0909 | 100.4543 | 4000 |
| 107.674 | 111.2631 | 114.8523 | 113.0111 | 4500 |
| 119.6378 | 123.6257 | 127.6136 | 125.5679 | 5000 |
| 131.6016 | 135.9883 | 140.375 | 138.1247 | 5500 |
| 143.5653 | 148.3508 | 153.1364 | 150.6815 | 6000 |
The 700R4 has a 3.06 first gear vs. the 2.48 of the Turbo 400, the most popular and successful GM automatic in towing.
3.06 first x 3.08 rear = 9.4248 effective gearing.
3.06 first x 3.42 rear = 10.4652 effective gearing.
2.48 first x 3.73 rear = 9.2504 effective gearing.
2.48 first x 3.90 rear = 9.672 effective gearing.
2.48 first x 4.11 rear = 10.1928 effective gearing.
As you can see, the 700R4 has lower effective gearing with a 3.08
rear than a Turbo 400 with a 3.73 rear. Since low gearing is
primarily important at take off, and you can shift as needed
while in motion on the highway, the 700R4 with a 3.08 is fine and
the 3.42 is great. In actual practice, it has worked great in my
'89 Chevy van. The milk toast TBI 350 is a bit weak at keeping
70-75 mph turnpike speeds though.
Also as can be seen in the chart above, the tire size can effectively change the gearing. A lower profile tire can be equivalent to changing to a lower gear. If your vehicle has the wrong gearing, you may be able to change the tire height enough to be acceptable. However, be sure to keep the same load rating or higher at all times.
If you are buying your tow vehicle new, consider ordering any towing packages that are available. Typically these offer lower rear axle ratios, heavier duty radiators, transmission coolers, oil coolers, stiffer springs, heavier shocks, and sometimes a factory wiring harness to the trailer.
If you buy used, as most racers do, check for this equipment on any prospective vehicles you examine. If it is not on the vehicle, consider adding a transmission cooler, oil cooler, helper springs, airbag springs, heavier alternator, and heavy duty flashers. If the radiator is marginal, consider replacing it with a new or a slightly larger (if factory available) size as towing and fighting overheating engines can ruin any trip.
If you decide to modify the engine with a new camshaft, depending on if you are permitted to by your state emissions control agency, selection should include the transmission type. Most parts suppliers recommend their RV-type cams for towing. These typically provide low end torque for pulling and take off with a heavy load. Power is typical in the 1000 to 3500 rpm range. These are fine with a manual but should be avoided with an automatic. Instead, look for an RV cam that has an operating range of 1800 to 4500 rpm if you have an automatic. The torque converter does not fully engage in most until almost 2000 rpm so the 1000 to 2000 range is wasted. Most automatics will not upshift under load until about 4000 rpm, so a cam that stops at 3500 rpm will never allow the transmission to upshift under load, like climbing hills or passing. This would mean you could be stuck in passing gear, never going faster, until you back off so it upshifts. But backing off may mean you no longer have enough throttle to climb the hill or to complete the pass.
Sway can be caused by improper weight management, cross winds, winds of passing vehicles, and road surface. The length from the ball to the rear axle of the tow vehicle determines how well the tow vehicle can resist swaying, or fishtailing. The longer this distance, the more sway the combination has (the less resistance to sway). Older Suburbans are typically known to have this problem. The 1973 to 1989 Suburban has been a flagship among older people with their travel trailers and yet it has a serious sway problem. Some extended vans, like the Dodge Maxi, and most motorhomes have this problem due to the long length of the body behind the rear axle. Many motorhomes are built such as to balance the motorhome load on the rear axle and are poorly designed to tow a trailer. Short wheel based vans, short box pickup trucks, and some SUVs have a very short distance and are much more stable. Some mini-vans have a very short distance, so they would be very stable, but most do not have the towing capacity needed to tow a large car and trailer and carry people and equipment inside.
Fortunately for many motorhomes and large trucks, the weight of the tow vehicle can resist the sway induced in many trailers. However, with very large trailers, the force can overcome the weight. With sway resistant slider (friction) bars and shock attachments, the sway can be controlled to where safe towing is possible.
Renting is a very viable option, which most do not explore. U-Haul has pickups in some areas they rent for roughly $19 a day. These will easily haul that FF and trailer and have room to haul gear. Consider a 3 day weekend per race times 5 races per year and you have $300 per year. Can you buy a truck for that amount, considering insurance, maintenance, etc.? Also, these are new trucks, with PS, PB, AC, and the works, typically. Nice and comfortable so wives/girlfriends will be more likely to join you than if you bought an old truck with taped vinyl seats, no air, and a lot of rattles.
Depending on what you find, many will handle a FF inside, so you do not even need the trailer if you figure out a ramp system. They provide all the shelter and room for tools, storage, etc. About double the pickup, but still roughly only $600 per year.
Usually only the larger trucks are equipped to tow a trailer, though. Read the rental agreement carefully. When renting cars and trucks from non-moving renters (Hertz, Avis, Budget, and so on), typically a clause is in the fine print prohibiting towing anything. That means even towing a simple motorcycle trailer can void the entire agreement and make you responsible for all damages.
On most rental vehicles, you are always requested to take the waivers. If you carefully read the agreement on the back, you will find that most of these damage waivers only cover you for the deductible of your insurance. They will go to your insurance company for the rest of the money, regardless of what the renter says verbally. So the $20 a day fee is buying you insurance on your $250 or $500 deductible. That is VERY expensive insurance. If you have the vehicle for 14 days (for the Run Offs, for example), you would pay more to avoid the deductible than the deductible.
In some rental and lease vehicles, there is a clause in the fine print on back, which you agreed that you both read and understood by signing, that prohibits towing any type of vehicle with the rental vehicle. Be sure that it is stated on the agreement that this vehicle is allowed to tow a trailer or you may find yourself responsible for damages and the insurance void.
This is an issue many overlook, but it is more necessary now to check than ever before. Once, many states had a operator's license and a chauffeur's license. If you didn't get paid to drive or drive a school bus or a commercial vehicle, then your operator's license was all you needed. Today that has changed.
Check your driver's license class as you may be surprised at what you find. Many states now list the classes as to what weight limits you are permitted to drive. Often, these limits are less than you think. For example, some states use an 8000 pound GVWR limit on the regular operator's license. This is less than the regular 3/4 ton and 1 ton pickup trucks many use to haul a trailer with. If you get stopped, you run the risk of having to abandon your vehicle right there, as you have no way to drive anywhere. Even if you have the correct license, check your spouse's license. Many wives do not have the higher classes as they never thought they would need one.
This does not apply only to trucks. Most of the time, the people in the Driver's License Office will tell you that, but the laws are usually written that "any vehicle in excess of" and that covers vans, Suburbans, Expeditions, and so on. The soccer mom with 5 kids in the Suburban 2500 may be unlicensed to drive that vehicle.
Most rental truck agencies will tell you that you can rent with a regular license. This is NOT TRUE. They will rent to you, but if caught, it is your problem. It may be a rental, but if that truck says more on its GVWR than your license allows, you are illegal and have the potential to have not only your equipment stranded, but run a risk of having the rental agency charge you for their truck that hasn't been turned back in.
There is a lot to consider about trailers and tow vehicles and the decision is one that only you can make.
Remember, the one purpose of a tow rig is to get you, the race (or show) car, and gear to the event and back. If you have to worry about it doing that, the tow rig isn't right. If it fails to do that, it isn't any good.
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