Mt. Fuji
Several times a year, the entire Wash Heights (no one ever called
it Washington Heights) Teen Club would get on a train and go somewhere
great. There must have been a hundred of us on the trip to climb
Mt. Fuji. TC Director Mrs. McCall would get parents as chaperones,
since there was no way she and her husband (don't cross him, a career Master
Sergeant, he would not put up with your crap!) could keep all of us in
check. Their daughter, Myra, was, of course, the picture of decorum.
I prayed my parents wouldn't volunteer and, thankfully, they didn't.
The train trip itself was utter chaos. Guys getting off at stations
to buy liquor on the platform, which seemed to be obtainable by even 14
year-olds. Some barely made it back when the train took off again. |
|
|
Guys trying to get girls into the 4 square foot bathrooms.
The liquor taking effect on several, who had to make sure everyone knew
it by being loud and obnoxious. Buying Japanese food on the platform
.. and looking at it and wondering what it was. Some people got into
Japanese food easily .. I never did .. and don't to this day. "Is
this cooked? What if I get the runs? Is there anything without
fish in it? Don't they have hamburgers anywhere outside Tokyo?"
Those who had completely immersed in the culture would just roll their
eyes up in their head. |
(click on pics outlined
for larger view) |
|
Whatever the term they used then for "wuss," they said it to
me. In a scene from a 1987 movie about vampires, "The Lost Boys,"
the hero, Michael, is handed a box of noodles by the head vampire and they
turn into worms before his eyes, and he drops it. "Noodles, Michael,
they're only noodles," the blood sucker says, and hands him the box of
worms that have turned back into noodles. That's how I felt when
someone handed me something that didn't have french fries on the side.
Arriving finally at Mt Fuji (and starving), I took a look at that
mountain. It was huge! It was gonna take two full days and
nights to climb it (from the absolute bottom, not take the train to the
5th station, like intelligent people do). Have another cigarette
and think about this. Thankfully, we spent that night in a hotel near the
mountain. Chaperones who had never been on road trips with us before
really didn't know what to expect. If their kids were on the trip,
it was basically a real bummer for the kids. There's nothing else they
could do but play the dutiful son or daughter. |
I shoulda known better after
first seeing this sign.
(click on pics for larger
view)
|
However, the chaperones saw kids who had been over to their house as well-behaved,
well-spoken young gentlemen and ladies turn into Atilla the Hun and his
ravaging hordes across the steppes of Asia. I think most of the chaperones
got little sleep that night, playing traffic guard in the hotel hallways,
trying to keep boys out of girls' rooms, and vice versa. If smuggling
alcohol onto the train appeared to be a stream of trouble, then at the
hotel, it was a tsunami.
No one wanted to go to bed. We were amped up and psyched, as any
road trip will do to you. When the adults finally herded each sex
into the proper rooms (and who knows what really went on?), large
groups of boys would converge on one room, and girls in another.
The girls would chat. The guys were looking for more to do.
Hey, guys, I just happened to bring a deck of cards .. and some chips.
How about some poker? Ahh, what a manly thing to do, drink a smuggled
beer and play seven card stud. Everyone pulled out their yen (we
had to convert our MPC for the trip), I was the banker, and it started ..
and went on .. and on .. and on .. until we see it's approaching dawn ..
and none of us had gotten any sleep. I pocket a considerable amount
of cash. I think: this is gonna be a great trip.
The next morning, a banging on the door awakens us. "Time to
climb the mountain," comes this overly-cheerful voice from the hallway.
I've gotten about three hours' sleep, and am in no mood for this.
I think I'll stay here. People are pulling me out of bed. I
really don't wanna go through with this, but I'll really look like
an idiot if I chicken out now. Besides, there was no way the chaperones
were going to leave me alone at the bottom for all that time.
This was a good idea when we started, but I'm having 2nd, 3rd and
4th thoughts now. I'd better
go through with it. We get a 6 foot wooden pole to climb with ..
it has another purpose. A slight incline at the start becomes Mt.
Everest by the end of the first day. I am wheezing from smoking way
too many cigarettes for a 16 year-old. But, there were no Surgeon
General's reports then, so I'm not the only one. There are stations
all along the way, where you can buy the worst food on Earth (you're not
coming back, they don't care!) .. "they're only noodles, Michael!" .. or
you can stay for the night, everyone jammed on the tatami mats on the floor.
By this time,
all the athletic types have zoomed far out in front, straight up the mountain,
so they can be the first to the top. Each station you pass, you get
that station's symbol branded on your climbing pole. That way, you
can prove you've made all ... how many? .. 9 stations ? 10? 89?..
to the top. Or not. So, here we are, about six of us, at the
4th station, with everyone else at least to the 6th station, and we're
feeling sorry for ourselves. That is, until someone points out that
there is ONE group that hasn't passed us. We are jubilant!
The fact that it is a group of really out of shape kids doesn't
faze us in the least. We won't be last!
|
I'm not fooled by pretty
picture
postcards any more. |
|
|
Stage 5, where normal people
start
the trek up Mt. Fuji. |
Stage 7, straight up, but it
seemed like descending into Dante's hell. |
Mt. Fuji can just knock the shit out of you! It gets
freezing cold and it gets so steep that your poor, unused muscles just
scream for relief. Maybe I should have gone out for sports after
all. This is torture. Did Prince Vlad of Romania design this
climb? People do this for fun!? The second day, our
ass-dragging, ragtag, motley crew fell breathless into a rest station and
dropped limp onto the floor. We got our poles branded, drank some
water .. that you have to buy if you run out .. and headed off again, calves
throbbing with pain. We tried singing to keep our mind off everything.
That even deteriorated into "Swing that hammer, take it to the Cap'n,"
and we just knew we had chain gang iron around our ankles.
Click on pics outlined for
larger view
|
|
Looks quiet and graceful,
doesn't it?
|
Something to peacefully
contemplate?
|
|
|
Don't let it fool you!
This is my arch enemy!
|
My nemesis - Fuji-san!
|
I think it was when we saw that they were selling oxygen at a station
that the mutiny started; someone, but I'm not sure who. Captain Bligh
was far in front of us, so keelhauling was not an option. It just
came blurting out of someone's mouth .. the age-old teenage curse for whatever
is anathema: "F@#& it!" said Fletcher Christian, "Just f@#& it!
I'm going back down!" Not one person said, "But ..." We looked
at each other in silent assent. And we started back down the way
we came.
|
|
This was a sight I was never
to see .. the summit of Mt. Fuji. It was disgusting to see the pictures
people brought back from the summit. |
Oh, right! Just fine!
Rub it in! The whole damn COUNTRY is on the summit .. including eight
kindergarden groups, a senior citizen nursing home and two guys in wheelchairs
.. all but me and my pitiful crew. |
(click on pics outlined for
larger view)
Those who would reach the top would come down a different path .. sometime
tomorrow. On the way down, we wondered if there was a dealer trafficking
in counterfeit brands for our climbing poles (there wasn't .. we checked).
|
|
We offered this guy a king's
ransom to sell us fake brands for every station .. well, maybe it was a
carton of Marlboros .. but he wasn't buying it. |
I may go back to Mt. Fuji and
set up shop selling these to out of shape Americans. |
Then, several more stations back .. in fact, waaayyyyy back ... we
ran into the last group .. wheezing, panting, groaning. We soon had
them enlisted in our mutiny, and we all started down the mountain together.
12,388 feet high .. how much is that in meters? Who cares?
Well, we had 7 brands, that wasn't so bad. Better than the 5 these
guys had in two days. It was a lot easier going down than coming
up .. quantum leaps. We spent that night in the last way station
before the bottom, preparing for the eventual humiliation.
One by one, as they returned the next day, the other groups ragged
on us mercilessly, showing off
their hiking sticks with all the brands, and especially the one from the
summit. We tried lame excuses at first, like one guy turned his ankle
and we had to go back with him. "ALL of you had to come back?" they
asked, and we knew it was a pitiful justification.
But, like most kids, they tired of the taunts after a while and got on
to other things to talk about. The train ride back to Tokyo was more
restrained than the trip going. Everyone was tired and slept most
of the way back to Tokyo. I was introspective. Bummed out.
I smoked too much and didn't exercise enough. It was the day Mt.
Fuji kicked my ass.
Then, all that bad news was soon forgotten with our next Teen Club
trip .. the Christmas ski trip to Nikko. |