A Short List of Essentials for Iguana Care

by Sue Solomon

Last revised August 1997

1. An abundance of carefully chosen fresh and frozen vegetables daily. Collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens and escarole are excellent because they have a high ratio of calcium to phosphorus. Limit spinach, chard, cabbage, and other related vegetables which inhibit the digestion of calcium and thus contribute to metabolic bone disease. Fruits, grains and other treats should constitute a maximum of 15% of the diet. Lettuce has no nutritive value. Animal protein such as dog or cat food can cause kidney failure.

2. Regular addition of vegetable protein such as alfalfa pellets, also high in needed calcium, sold as rabbit food. These can be sprinkled on the vegetables as-is or ground up.

3. Vitamin and mineral supplementation about twice a week. Zoo Med's Rep-Cal with Vitamin D3 and Herptivite are popular. A pinch of each on the iguana's food is sufficient.

4. A source of belly heat to facilitate digestion. This can be supplied with a heating pad made for people and set on low heat, heat tape sold through some reptile supply companies, heat pads made for reptiles or other animals, or heat rocks with thermostatic controls set on low. Never use a heat rock without a thermostatic control, and secure the control with tape so the iguana's motion can't accidentally raise the setting. Check heat sources several times a day and be careful of excessively hot spots. Ensure that the cage allows the iguana a gradient or range of temperatures, with daytime basking temps between 95 and 100 degrees.

5. A source of overhead heat. Ceramic heat emitters can be put in shop light holders with heavy duty sockets. These are rather expensive but are long lasting and can be left on all the time. Incandescent light bulbs can be used instead, but must be alternated with dark light bulbs for night use. The heat source should be within 2-3 feet of the iguana's basking spot but should be out of reach and covered with wire barriers to prevent burns.

6. A source of the UVA and UVB (@310 nm - 285 nm) components of sunlight. Exposure to natural sunlight is best, weather permitting. Twenty to sixty minutes of exposure to natural sunlight a few times a week in the summer can help an iguana's metabolism all year round. If this is not possible, some recommend a "full spectrum" fluorescent bulb such as a Vita-Lite. These must be replaced every six months when used for 12-hour daily light/dark cycles.

7. Suitable visual barriers so the ig can reduce stress by hiding from people as well as from other igs, dogs and cats. Igs can be territorial as adults and may try to injure each other.

8. Clean drinking water at all times.

9. Adequate humidity by misting the cage and/or soaking the ig on a daily basis.

10. An initial checkup with a competent reptile veterinarian. Bring a fresh fecal sample which has been kept on a moist paper towel in a plastic bag in the refrigerator if passed more than an hour before the vet visit. All iguanas have parasites which are debilitating if not treated.

FOLLOWING THESE RECOMMENDATIONS WILL MINIMIZE THE CHANCE OF METABOLIC BONE DISEASE AND OTHER ILLNESS IN YOUR IGUANA.