Guidelines for Meridian Scribes

A Note to Meridian Scribes:

This guide was designed to aid the artists of Meridies in the production of scrolls for the Kingdom. The information in this manual will (as hoped) give a basis for those endeavors by providing guidelines for quality, tips on materials, and approved wordings for the standard Meridian scrolls.

The philosophy of the SCA should carry over into the selection of materials that are appropriate for the work we are doing, i.e. recreation of period examples using the most appropriate materials and techniques we have at this time. Creativity is important, but only within a framework of medieval styles based on research. The annoted bibliography is provided as a place to start that research. The goal is to produce scrolls that have an authentic medieval feel.

If you are interested in designing charter masters or have any other questions, please feel free to contact the Parchment Pursuivant or the Chancellor of the College of Scribes. Your efforts are greatly appreciated.

November XXXIV

Paper
Medium
Layout
Signature Spaces
Scribes Signature
Transportation of Scrolls
Arms

PAPER

The ideal paper to use is acid-free, 100 percent rag. This should be from a light weight, 90 pound, to the heavier, 140 pound. Examples of suitable paper include watercolor paper, illustration board, and Bristol board. Such papers come in hot press (smooth) and cold press (rough) surfaces. Bristol board comes in plate and vellum, plate being the smoother of the two. In watercolor paper, hot press is better for calligraphy, as the textured surface of cold press makes it difficult to keep the letters even. With illustration board, cold press is betteer, as the hot press may be too smooth and slick. Examples of good 100% rag, but check before you buy. Many of these papers come in 24"x36" sheets and can be divided into smaller sctions for scrolls. Scrolls should be a minimumb of 8"x11" to a maximum of 18"x24". The best sizes seem to be 11"x14", 11"x17" and 16"x20".

If these papers are not available, use a watercolor or a good drawing paper. If you prefer the parchment type paper, use a white or cream. Avoid antique colors as scrolls are supposed to be original scrolls not molding relics. Keep in mind that kind of paper has a tendency to become brittle in just a few years time; if you can find it in a pH neutral variety, use it. Do NOT use drafting vellum, as it is too thin and transparent.

For special occasions or for special recipients, scrolls may be done on parchment (sheep skin) or vellum (calf skin). These materials are not for the beginner but can be a pleasure to use for the experienced scribe. They are, however, expensive and difficult to obtain. Some suppliers sell scrap ends for about $1.00 apiece. These are good for small pieces and experiments.

For scrolls produced through the Parchment Office the paper is Vellum Bristol or Cover Plus 16004. Beware...use the smooth side.

MEDIUM

Use whatever works best for you. There are many mediums to choose from and preference is largely a matter of personal taste. Be sure to keep in mind the differences among the mediums and note which will work best in a situation. Most often, the water-soluble paints, such as gouache, are used. These are paints that can be thinned and cleaned up with water. The main problem with an oil-based paint is that the oil may seep into the paper and leave a spot or "halo" around the painted work. Water soluble paints may or may not be fade resistant. Check the permanency rating on the tube to make sure the color will stay true as long as possible. Avoid felt tip pens, unless the finish product looks period and the color is light fast. An example of a felt tip permanent marker is the Micron Pigma pen which is waterproof as well.

Inks are water-soluble or lacquer-based. Water based inks flow more easily and won't clog pens as much as laquer-based inks. As with paint, water-based does not automatically indicate fading. Some water-based inks, like Higgins Eternal, have a high fade resistance. Many Oriental Sumi inks are good as well. Lacquer-based inks are the India inks, such as Higgins Black Magic. These will not run if they get damp and are very black and even. Lacquer-based inks cannot usually be used in a fill pen, such as the Plantignum, but some companies do make a fill pen especially for India inks. Nibs that clog with ink can be cleaned with a solution of ammonia and water or green Palmolive dish-washing soap, water and a toothbrush.

LAYOUT

It is essential to leave about 1" as a plain empty border around your finished piece. Plan your piece with this one inch border in mind. This will allow the recipient to mat and frame your scroll without covering your work. Leave some space between the calligraphy and the drawn borders to facilitate the reading of the scroll. Consider carefully how much wording you have to put on the scroll, (see scroll texts), and how much illumination you want to include.

The Complete Anachronist #61 has some examples of period layouts for award charters, showing both vertical and horizontal configurations.

SIGNATURE SPACES

A space of about 1 1/2" should be left at the bottom for the Royalty and the Beacon Principle Herald to sign. Leave room near the signature blocks for seals: approximately 2" diameter circles for the Sovereigns' seals and the same for the Herald's seal.

Lines drawn in ink for signatures are not period, so if you want to use a line to indicate where the signature should be, use a lightly penciled line. Alternatively, signature spaces may be indicated by writing Rex, Regina, Sovereign, Consort, or Beacon Principle and leaving a blank space for the signature.

Signature spaces are needed for the Sovereign and Consort on all scrolls, except as noted in the scroll text section. A space is also needed for the Beacon Principle Herald to sign (on award scrolls where the award carries precedence, i.e. an armigerous award). The King and the Queen's signatures may appear above the space left for the Beacon or all may appear in order vertically.. Although it may appear in order right to left, it is preferable to place the Beacon's below those of the Royalty.

SCRIBE'S SIGNATURES

Always sign your work. A small name in not-too-obvious place or a maker's mark will do fine. If you feel uncomfortable signing on the front, then sign the back of the work, in pencil. Scripsit is Latin for 'written by,' and is appropriate before or after your name. Other descriptive terms were: mefecitfor 'made me,' pinzit for 'painted by,' per mano for 'by the hand of,' faciebat for 'fashioned by,' delineavit for 'drawn by' or delineated by.' When painting a clack and white of someone else's work, alsways sign "Painted by" your name and your Shire/Barony on the back in pencil. Folks like to know who painted their scroll.

TRANSPORTATION OF SCROLLS

It is best to transport scrolls flat whenever possible. A portfolio may be made from pieces of strong cardboard or a commercially produced one can be purchased inexpensively. If you are going to store a scroll for any length of time, you should try to get an acid free glassine to protect the work. If you have time after finishing a scroll, you may want to make an inexpensive portfolio for the recipient to transport his/her scroll home without damage. Roll a scroll as a last resort, as this may damage the scroll. NEVER fold it!

ARMS

A Blazon is the heraldic description of Arms. When a scroll requires Arms (i.e. an AoA or GoA), the Blazon should be included. If the Arms are not officially registered by the recipient, leave 3 or 4 lines which will be filled in later when the arms become official. Then a promissory may be given in its stead.

When Arms are required, a space must be left for the Emblazon, or picture of the Arms, as well as for the blazon of the recipients Arms. If the receipient does not have Arms officially passed, draw in the shap of the shield (many shapes from different time persons may be used), lozenge, or cartouche and leave it blank. Although historically a lozenge was used for a lady's Arms, in the SCA it is used only when the recipient has indicated a preference for one. If you don't know what the recipient prefers, use the standard shield form.

Arms are required only on some scrolls, but an Emblazon of the recipient's registered Arms may be used on any scroll. If the recipient of the scroll, that does not require Arms has no registered Arms, simply omit the Arms.

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