The endless restaurants that line the alleys off Chunghsiao East Road seem to open and close before a review of the place makes it to press. Wandering around the area after a shopping spree on a fine Saturday evening last week, none of them - baring a couple of pack-'em-in noodle joints - were exactly booming, except for Arcadia, which was comfortably full. It isn't hard to hazard a guess at the reason: sensible prices, good food, a cozy atmosphere and friendly, helpful, English-speaking waitstaff.

Pushing open the massive glass door, we were greeted by cheerful waitstaff who showed us to the only available table.
At first glance, the menu looked brief, but closer inspection revealed an adequate offering of everything from snail gratin to goose liver pate. Our waiter explained that the restaurant served primarily French fare, but the menu presented me with more of a Continental platter.

Another interesting point of the menu was that everything was a set-a-la-carte meal - if there is such a thing - included in the price of main course is your appetizer, soup, and unlimited runs to the salad, fruit and dessert bar. Prices ranged from NT$780 for the spring chicken to NT$1,200 for grilled lobster with brandy.

For my appetizer, I chose Norwegian smoked salmon. Unlike the usually paper-thin slices of smoked salmon, Arcadia serves thick slices rolled into the shape of a rose set on four romaine lettuce leaves, on each of which was a teaspoon of caviar. Served with capers and a wedge of lemon, the presentation - and taste - couldn't have been better.

My wife opted for crab meat, which again was impeccably presented. When our waiter returned to clear out plates, I asked him what the deal was on the artistic presentations, and was told that the chef used to cook at the Grand Hyatt's Belle Air Restaurant before he opened Arcadia four years ago.

For soup I chose cream of mushroom, which was capped by a puff pastry crust, and my wife chose French onion, both of which were tasty, but perhaps unnecessary as after the appetizer, soup and garlic bread, we didn't have much room left for our entrees.

Still, our entrees were so good that we didn't struggle to finish them. I had ordered mignon with lime zest, served with mashed, sweet potato, and a thick mushroom gravy. Broiled to medium, I was pleased that it was served on a regular plate, as opposed to a metal sizzler which tends to turn your steak a pale shade of gray even before you've even eaten half of it.

My better half chose einsbein (baked pig knuckle) with sauerkraut, which was served off the bone and also with mashed sweet potato.
 In between waiting for out appetizers, soup and entrees, our trips to the salad bar netted enough greens to make a vegetarian proud of us. Greens is the operative word here, as all the veggies - bar the sweet corn - were the leafy variety. Just about every type of lettuce, cabbage, spinach, and cress was available for the picking, which our waiter, who noticing how enthusiastic we were about it, said all the vegies -- bar the sweet corn, again - were organically grown. That explained their fresh, crispy taste.

After our main courses, we were given a plate of fruit - sliced orange, apple, honey-dew melon and watermelon, even though there were plates of fruit on the dessert bar. Stuffed to the gills, we decided to save the desserts and coffee for our next trip.

I must add here that the patient, and courteous waitstaff added to the pleasure of eating at Arcadia. Even with our 1-year-old twins throwing cutlery and food on the floor, instead of shooting dirty looks at us, we were greeted with, "Don't worry about it," or "I'll get you another one."