It's not the authentic Indian pop music grooving through the room: It's not the large, mesmerizing statue of Ganesh by the cashier's counter. It's not even the eye-catching South Asian art hanging on the walls.

It is the food - pungent, tasty and in large quantities - that makes the Tandoor Taipei's must-eat Indian food restaurant.

The small but finely appointed establishment, located off Ho Chiang Street a block from Min Sheng East Road, offers all the familiar dishes of the region, including, of course, tandoori, which are meats and other treats cooked in a traditional Indian clay oven. That's not to say that the curries, vindaloos, daals and other items at aren't just as good.

For those new to the world of Indian cuisine, I would recommend starting with the crispy triangles of deep-fried vegetables known as samosa (NT$100). They are actually quite rich, though not so filling as to curb your hunger for the main course. The Tandoor serves them with its own, homemade chutney, which is deep green and medium spicy. Another option is the hara bhara habab (NT$180), small cottage cheese discs fried up in spinach and topped with cashew halves. They are quite juicy and the coating is similar to Israeli falafal or Egyptian tamaniya.

As for the main courses, my personal favorite is the ever-delicious paneer makhanwala (NT$220), a thick and zesty tomato stew, slightly spicy, well seasoned and with chunks of toasted cheese. There are other paneers available, some involving peas and less spices, and all go well with naan (NT$70), the tandoori-cooked bread served hot from the oven. The naan is offered in plain, butter and garlic flavors.

Also excellent is the old standby of Indian cuisine: chicken curry. The Tandoor version has a thin consistency, but is very deep in taste. Not overly spicy but by no means bland, the curry invites the addition of rice, either yellow saffron or white Chinese (NT$40) to soak up the sauce. As for the chicken meat, it's tender and fresh.

Another good choice is the daal tarka (NT$200), a thick yellow lentil soup, light but with a healthy grain taste. Perhaps one of the best from the several daal options on the menu.

Tandoor's owner, Raju Relwani, opened his second Tandoor restaurant around September '98, on Min Chuan W. Road, a block west of Chungshan N. Road. Also called Tandoor Indian Restaurant, it carries exactly the same menu as the mother branch. My companions and I have eaten there three times, and there will not be a fourth. The food is overly spiced, and is just plain bad. After complaining, we were told that we don't understand Indian food ... Mmmh, really? "How come the other restaurant tastes good and here tastes lousy?" we ask. Oh, the cook is different ... Mmmh, really? "You mean he can't cook?" 

Despite the disappointment at the new outlet, I remain a loyal customer of the mother Tandoor restaurant, and as the new branch probably won't be open for too long in 1999, it may be a good idea to call to see if it's still open if you want to give it a try. Let me know if it's improved any, so I can update this review. Thanks.