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MAGIC CAMPFIRE STARTS
Compiled by
Scouter Stewart Bowman
8th Whitby Scout Troop
Whitby District
Lakeridge Region
Ontario, Canada
November 1992
INTRODUCTION
The following compilation of "Magic Campfire Starts" has been
collected over a period of years and from a variety of resources.
Although new methods have been added to this production, the core
of ideas was submitted to The Leader magazine in April 1992 and a
modified version appeared in print in the October 1992 issue of
that magazine.
The Leader magazine omitted any of the chemical based methods
submitted, however the reasons were valid and totally
understandable. I have included a full range of magic fire starts
in this booklet as I trust that recipients, who intend to
practise and refine the art of magic fire starts, will exercise
due care and diligence in the attempts to try some or any of the
following ideas.
I caution everyone who may wish to try these ideas to be careful.
I accept no responsibility for the results of your efforts,
wether they be good or bad.
I do however maintain a strong interest in continuing to build
and refine the ideas presented here. I would be very interested
in hearing from users of this material, your comments on the
content and any new ideas that you may have used.
Good Luck, and have fun !
Yours in Scouting,
Scouter Stewart Bowman,
A WORD OF CAUTION.
Unless you are very comfortable with the ideas presented here,
the results may not always conform to your expectations -
remember Murphy's Law !
With a little forethought, care and caution you can maximize the
opportunity for success and minimize the chance for failure.
Don't interpret the following as rules, they are merely
clarifying the common-sense approach that most of use
anyways.......
1. These ideas are not games and should not be approached as if
they are.
2. I know this is contradictory, but only people in full control
of their mental faculties should try these. The contradiction
being that you've got to be slightly off balance to be an
adult scouter anyways !
3. Exercise extreme caution when dealing with corrosive,
poisonous, inflammatory material
- Always mix and use chemicals outdoors,
- Follow instructions to the letter. Do not experiment,
- Never throw a lighted match into a mixture to ignite it,
- Avoid large quantities - more is NOT better.
4. Practise the chosen fire start several times before you
actually use it in front of an audience, and always have
sufficient supplies on hand for your practise runs.
5. Check reaction times between activation and ignition as this
will help you plan the story that you will use in conjunction
with the fire start. Become familiar with the "noises" that
may accompany certain of the fire starts.
6. Always have a "Plan B" ready if "Plan A" fails - and it
will, sooner or later.
CAMPFIRE ETIQUETTE.
There are a number of other resources covering the structure and
contents of a well planned formal campfire. Repeating these
concepts here would be somewhat redundant, but I have taken the
liberty of including a copy of an excellent article on campfires
that appeared in the June/July '89 issue of The Leader (Appendix
III). There is one aspect, however, that I feel does warrant
repetition here and that is how we conduct ourselves at the
campfire.
There are 3 basic practises which we try to follow at every
formal campfire :-
- No flashlights - we have the fire to light our way,
- No Clapping or Booing - that's why we have 'cheers',
- No Talking - unless you're involved in an activity, talking
spoils the mood and detracts from whatever is going on.
In campfires I've attended or lead, the later point is sometimes
not controlled too well. Scouter, please make sure that your
scouts are not the ones disrupting the campfire. Have them show
proper respect towards the efforts of the Campfire Leader and
participants.
FIRE LAY CONSTRUCTION.
There are a number of different ways to build your fire in
preparation for the magic fire start.
Where pre-positioning of the fire-start mechanism is involved,
the Council (or Pyramid) fire lay is the preferred style. By
building the various layers with dry kindling between the wood
pieces, you can easily conceal your fire start material. The
natural structure of this style of fire also leaves a 'chamber'
in the centre that is just what you need to place your fire start
mechanism in, so that any material that has to be added to cause
ignition can drop on to the mechanism.
Should your fire start involve material being flown in - such as
for the 'Flaming Arrow' fire start - then the Tepee style fire
lay might be the choice. Where the 'arrow' enters the fire lay,
an opening can be left in the fire material which can be well
packed with dry kindling and other quick combustibles.
If your personal favourite is the Log Cabin style, this can also
be used quite nicely with some of these magic fire start ideas.
This particular style is well suited to electrical based fire
starts where the ignition mechanism can be placed in the middle
of the fire lay and yet still be hidden by kindling.
One item that I strongly discourage from being included in any
fire lay - regardless of the weather conditions - is liquid fuel
(white gas; naphtha; charcoal starter fuel, etc.) as the results
can be somewhat unpredictable if used with some of the ideas
presented here. Any scouter who needs this to get a fire going is
probably not suited to trying Magic Fire Start Ideas (see page 3,
A Word of Caution, Item #2).
SETTING THE SCENE.
Before everyone gets to the campfire, you can do a lot to prepare
the scene and get everyone in the right frame of mind. Three
ideas I've seen work very well, but are more appropriate at a
District (or higher) camp(oree) where you have a large number of
participants involved.
The first involves gathering everyone together away from the
campfire area. This avoids disruption or delays at the fire
itself, when groups arrive late. It also gives the Camp Fire
Leader an opportunity to go through any last minute instructions.
When ready, everyone can then walk quietly in file and form up
around the fire site.
The second idea, coupled with the first, solves the problem of
everyone not quite knowing where to stand when they get around
the fire. Since we are talking about a formal campfire, reinforce
this by pre-determining and marking the circumference of the fire
site with suitable markers and establish an 'entrance' to this
area through a flag honour guard. The Campfire Leader can then
lead everyone through the honour guard and around the boundary
line. By the time the leader comes back around to the perimeter
to the entrance way, everyone else who followed him will be
properly positioned around the fire.
The last idea is neat and very effective. Although you can mark
the perimeter of the campfire circle in a number of ways, my
personal favourite has involved placing lighted candles in brown
paper bags. To do this you need a supply of small brown bags,
then add a couple of handfuls of sand into each bag. The sand not
only keeps the bag anchored on the ground, but it also keeps the
neck of the bag open and forms a base in which you place a
candle.
If you want to get really clever with this idea, a normal
household emergency type candle will burn down at an approximate
rate of 2 inches per hour. If you've planned a one hour campfire,
anchor the candle with about 2 inches left above the level of the
sand.
Pre-position the bags around the perimeter of your campfire
circle and have a couple of helpers (depending on the number of
candles) light the candles as participants are being lead towards
the fire area. This looks really neat for those approaching the
area.
Hopefully, if things go right, your perimeter candles will keep
your audience from goofing around too much (since they can now be
seen ?), will stop them creeping ever closer to the campfire
('cause they don't want to get too close to the candles ?) and
will nicely close off the campfire as they all burn down around
about the same time - yeh, right ! But give it a try anyways.
Should you wish to be a little more creative or formal in the
illumination of your campfire circle, there are a number of
styles of 'torches' that can be made.
As with any matters dealing with open flames, please make sure
that safety is uppermost in your thoughts when determining style,
placement, proximity to people, etc..
THE USE OF STORY'S
Since we frequently arrange camps with a theme, why not evolve
your campfire also around a theme which could further impact both
your campfire opening comments and the method of lighting.
In any event, magic fire starts deserve to be supported with a
story. In determining the story to use remember that it should in
some way 'explain' the magic involved; it could get participants
active in the fire start itself; and it will enable you to set up
particular timing prompts if the fire start needs assistance from
others.
Mechanical Fire Starts #2 & #3 include related stories that also
explain the fire start , but here are a couple of others that you
could adopt & adapt.
Peter the Elf
"While getting the wood ready for the fore tonight, I came across
a small wood- elf trapped in the underbrush. Since a scouter is
always kind, considerate and helpful, I helped free him. In
return he promised to help me if I ever needed it. All I have to
do is call."
"Since this is the first time I've ever met a wood-elf, I've no
idea if he will keep his promise to me. Maybe we should see if he
will help us to light this fire ?"
Shout out - "Peter the Elf, will you light this fire for me ?" -
no response. Call a second time, still nothing happens.
"Maybe he can't hear my voice. Let's all shout - Peter the Elf,
will you light this fire for me ?"
Time the fire start so that the fire lay ignites after the last
shout.
The Indian Pow-Wow
"Some of you may know that, not very far from here is land
considered sacred by the indians who used to live in this area.
No one can remember what this land was used for, but the scholars
think it was where the tribe used to get together for special
councils and pow-wows. It's funny, but there's no historical
evidence to support this and its all based on local legend."
"Some of you may have noticed the old farm near the camp site
entrance. Old Charlie lives there and he's become quite an
authority on local indian legends."
"One of the story's he tells is of how the indians used to signal
that there was a pow-wow about to start. Once all the council
members were around the circle, they would signal that they were
all present by stamping their feet on the ground. Like this...."
Get everyone to join in.
"At that signal the Council Chief would send a fire arrow into
the air to signal the start of the pow-wow."
These ideas should give you a bit of a start in developing your
own story's, and don't be afraid to tailor the fire start to the
camp theme. The theme could be space, pioneering, circus, UFO's;
whatever. A little creativity will enable you to come up with a
really great story to introduce the fire.
MAGIC CAMPFIRE STARTS
Everyone thought that the campfire was great ! It was a
beautifully clear night, the fire burnt down precisely on
schedule; the skits were good; the cheers were new - and
appropriate. Everyone knew the words to the songs - and sang in
tune (especially the adults !). How can you improve on that ?
Well, here are a few ideas to add to your repertoire of campfire
magic.
Imagine the scene at your next campfire. Everyone has walked into
the campfire circle, your opening is inspirational but everyone
is wondering why the fire isn't lit yet. You then lead off with a
short story to fit the circumstances and then ask for everyone's
help in calling on the appropriate spirits to light the
ceremonial fire. A short pause, then..... FLASH! ..... the
campfire is roaring away and yet no-one was anywhere near the
fire to light it !
These magic campfire starts may help you add that touch of
mystique to a potentially memorable occasion.
Mechanical Fire Starts
1] Take a 2 x 4 piece of wood, about 3 - 4 inches long. In the
middle of this drill one 3/8" hole all the way through. This
should be large enough to put a large nail or spike through
and secure the wood to the ground. Still with this same piece
of wood, drill as many 1/8" diameter holes in it that you can,
but not all the way through the wood. A drill guide will help
you to get all these holes the same depth. The depth will be
determined by the length of the blue tip wood matches that you
should then place in these holes, leaving only the match heads
slightly above the wood surface.
Take a second piece of 2 x 4 wood and glue some sandpaper to
one side. Also secure a small "eye" screw to one end.
Hold the two blocks of wood together with rubber bands (after
staking the first piece of wood in the middle of your fire
lay), and surround with plenty of dry kindling.
Attach a wire to the "eye" screw and, at the appropriate
moment, pull. The friction of the sandpaper against the match
heads will cause them to ignite, thereby setting the kindling
on fire.
2] The "Flaming Arrow" is a traditional favourite. Drive a stake
a little beyond the heart of the fire lay, as it is being
laid. From this stake run a length of nylon fishing line up to
a nearby high point and tie securely so that the line is very
taut. The angle should be sufficient to ensure a smooth and
fairly rapid decent of the 'arrow' otherwise you run the risk
of the flame burning through the fishing line before the arrow
reaches the fire.
The arrow is attached to the line through two spools (so make
sure you thread the spools onto the line before you tie it off
!) To the head of the arrow secure a bundle of dry flammable
material. At the appropriate time during the introductory
story, an assistant lights the arrow and releases it to slide
down to set the fire alight.
One of the benefits of using fishing line for the line to the
fire, is that once the fire is alight the fishing line will
burn through and the assistant can then retrieve the line
without those attending the campfire being aware of it. If you
find that the fishing line does not work for you, use wire
instead, but tie the wire to fishing line where it passes
through the fire lay. This piece will burn away when he fire
is lit, allowing you to retrieve the length of wire.
3] Variations on the above method include tying the flammable
material directly around a weighted spool and sending that
down the line to create a 'fire-ball' effect.
I've also heard of firework sparklers being attached to the arrow
to give quite a spectacular impression.
4] One idea included in several scouter resource books is to have
a candle pre-lit in the fire lay, but covered by a #10 Can.
The candle is secured to a wooden base with a line attached to
it. At the appropriate moment, pull the candle out from the
can and the kindling will catch fire.
Electrical Fire Starts
When setting up electrical fire starts, the weight of the wire
used to generate heat will depend on the size of the battery you
intend to use and the distance between the battery and the
ignition device. Practise beforehand will enable you to properly
rig your fire start, but , as a guide, use fine wire for a 6 volt
battery source. If your power source is a 12 volt car battery a
heavier wire will be required.
1] Steel Wool and "D" cell batteries are frequently used in
survival techniques as an emergency method of starting a fire.
Based on this principal, one camp fire start idea is to use steel
wool in the fire lay (surrounded by small dry kindling) remotely
attached to a car battery. The battery could be disguised by
hiding in a box that would double as a seat for the Campfire
Leader, with a switch on the side of the box to complete the
electrical circuit and start off your fire.
2] A variation on the above involves a little more creativity
with the electrical connections. From the disguised car
battery/campfire seat, you'll need 3 electrical circuits and
switches. Switch #1 connects to a yellow taillight secured in the
fire and hidden under kindling. Switch #2 is hooked up to a two
more light bulbs. Switch #3 hooks up to steel wool, as detailed
in the previous method.
As part of your campfire opening, get everyone to assist by
blowing towards the fire. As they do so, throw switch #1 and
everyone should see a yellow glow coming through the fire. Turn
off the switch after a second or two.
Obviously not everyone was helping or blowing hard enough, so get
them to blow again. Throw switch #2 and a stronger light will be
seen in the fire. Turn the switch off after maybe five seconds.
One last time ! Obviously it was the Scouters who weren't trying
hard enough. As everyone blows hard for the last time, trigger
the third switch to set the fire alight.
Remember to pull the lights attached to Switches #1 & #2 out of
the fire lay before you set the fire going, unless you want to
compete with exploding light bulbs !
3] Take a block of scrap 2" x 4" with a saw cut through the
centre line. Two nails are driven in at either end of the block
on opposite sides of the saw cut. These nails will provide
'terminals' to hook up to the power source. Insert an uncovered
paper match book into the saw cut, and thread a very fine piece
of wire through the match heads, connect the wire to the
'terminals'. Attach the wires from your power source also to the
'terminals' after connecting them through some switching
mechanism. When a current is passed through the wire, heat will
be generated which will ignite the matches and then set off your
campfire kindling.
4] Take a bunch of friction type matches and secure with a rubber
band. The bigger the bunch, the more spectacular will be the fire
start. Then take a metal spring from a spring-loaded pen and
stretch this spring to be slightly larger than the diameter of
your bundle of matches. Lay the spring through the matches, so
that it is touching the match heads. Place this bundle on
kindling in your fire lay.
Remotely attach a battery to the ends of the spring wire, through
a switching mechanism. At the correct time, throw the switch and
the spring will generate electrical heat which will ignite the
matches.
5] This next idea builds on the previous one, but requires a
little more creative electrical and carpentry skills. Once you've
set it up, however, it could be either your primary fire start
method or a back-up method if "Plan A" fails.
Take a piece of deadwood about 5-6 feet in length and at least 1
1/2 inches in diameter at the base. Carefully drill a hole
vertically into the base, of a sufficient depth/breadth to hold
your battery power source. Run wires (covered where exposure is
not necessary) from the battery up the outside of the staff, with
one of the wires going through a simple switch set at about the 4
foot mark. The ends of the wires should be stripped and terminate
about 8-10 inches below the top end of the staff. Wrap several
layers of dry flammable material around the first 8-10 inches
from the top of the staff, secure with wire.
Just below the flammable material, tape an open book of matches
and run a fine wire, from the wires attached to the
battery/switch, through the match heads.
Hold the staff away from your body - yeh, really this is a good
idea ! - and trigger the switch to light the match heads which
will then catch the flammable material. Your flaming torch can
then light the campfire. Since you always keep a bucket of water
near your fire, extinguish the torch after use and it'll be able
to be used again.
Chemical Fire Starts
In the fire lay, place a pre-prepared piece of 2 x 4 wood, with
four 6 inch nails driven partially into it. Between the nails, on
the wood, place a small aluminum tart cup with at least two
tablespoons of Potassium Permanganate (available from most
pharmacy's) in it. Supported on the heads of the 4 nails place a
second aluminum cup that has had three or four small holes
punched in the base. Tilt this cup to one side by placing a twig
across two of the nails and then balance the cup so it is
supported. In this cup place a quantity of Glycerine (also
available from Pharmacy's) - but not enough so that it trickles
through the holes. The twig should have a length of fishing line
tied to it, with the line stretching away from the fire lay.
By pulling on the fishing line and removing the supporting twig,
the cup containing Glycerin will drop to rest horizontally and
the glycerine will spread out over the cup's base. A couple of
drops will then fall through the pre-punched holes and onto the
Potassium Permanganate.
After a short pause the glycerine will react with the Potassium
Permanganate and create a flame which will need to catch your
kindling thereby setting the fire lay ablaze.
2] Take a model rocket igniter (available at most hobby shops)
and pass the igniter through the inside of a paper baggy leaving
two little wires sticking out. Then carefully remove the contents
of a "Coloured Flower Bloom" or "Giant Fountain" firework (use
only one) and place into the paper baggy.
Attach the clips from a model rocket firing device to the two
wires coming out of the baggy. Prepare the mechanism by pulling
the safety pin. Then, when you're ready, press the firing button
and POOF!, another magic fire start.
The next two ideas are particularly clever, and I'll quote from
training material prepared by Bill Glover, DRC (Training),
Southern Alberta Region, as he explains them excellently....
3] Crush 1 teaspoon of iodine crystals to a very fine powder,
then mix with 2 teaspoons of powdered aluminium. IT IS CRITICAL
THAT THIS MIXTURE REMAINS ABSOLUTELY DRY.
Place this mixture in the fire lay on a piece of plywood, forming
a volcano shaped mound. When the participants are gathered around
the campfire, ask if anyone has a canteen of water in case the
fire gets 'out of hand' (you may want to set this up beforehand).
Pat your pockets as if looking for a match, but finding none, ask
to borrow some water. Sprinkle it on the fire lay (ensure a few
drops hit the iodine/aluminium mixture) and you will be greeted
by billowing purple smoke, followed by deep red flames. Someone
is bound to ask, "OK. So how do you put it out ?" Simply tell
them you'll throw matches on it !
Note: The powdered iodine "evaporates" very quickly. As a
result this mixture must be used within about 10 minutes of
preparation.
A teaspoon of Pinesol or Pine Oil is placed in a shallow
container within the fire lay. The story that Bill uses to
introduce this magic fire start is based on the ashes from a
previous campfire. The "Ashes" are a half a cup of HTH Granulated
chlorine. When the two are combined, they produce a large
quantity of white smoke, followed by flames. This is a relatively
slow reaction, so Bill opens the campfire with the following
story.
"As we gather here tonight, for our formal campfire, I think back
to the closing campfire from last year. It was such a great fire,
and the feelings of love and friendship so strong. In order to
try and rekindle those feeling for our fire tonight, I would like
to add some of the ashes from last years fire. Now, before I
light the fire tonight, I would like you all to look at this pile
of wood, and think about your own feelings about last year's
fire, and what made it special for you."
SPECIAL EFFECTS.
Once your camp fire is nicely roaring, it may be appropriate to
add 'special effect' flames to enhance a story or just close down
the camp fire ceremony with a little more magic.
Try adding a spray of chemicals to the fire. The following can
either be sprinkled on the logs as you build the fire lay or
added to the fire itself to enhance a story or activity. They all
create a flare of coloured flame than can be really effective if
not overdone.
COLOURED FLAMES
Yellow - potassium nitrate (salt petre)
- sodium chloride (table salt)
Green - borax
- barium nitrate
- copper sulphate
Purple - lithium chloride
Red - strontium nitrate
Orange - calcium chloride ("Road Salt")
SPARKLES
Silver - powdered aluminium
Gold - iron filings
FLASHES
Red - strontium nitrate } equal parts by
- powdered magnesium } weight.
Green - potassium nitrate }
- boric acid } equal parts by
- powdered magnesium } weight.
- powdered sulphur }
SMOKE
black gunpowder } equal parts by
powdered magnesium } weight.
Where the above chemicals or compounds are not readily available
from Hardware/Grocery Stores or the local Pharmacy, check the
'Yellow Pages' for a chemical supply company.
In talking to your pharmacist (for example) please ensure that
you have developed some sort of level of comfort with the owner
before you start asking for a variety of chemicals. Let them know
the purpose for the chemicals, and that you are a registered
scouter not some closet pyromaniac !
One method of adding chemicals to a campfire without anyone being
aware that it was done is to use a photographer's airbulb
release. These use a tiny black airhose attached to a
squeeze-bulb trigger. The airhose can be buried so as to remain
unseen, and the simple act of stepping on the airbulb (perhaps
further hidden under a piece of bark) will blow the spray of
chemicals onto the fire.
Another method is to take a six inch long piece of 1" copper pipe
and stuff 4" pieces of good quality lawn soaker hose into both
ends (don't use the clear type of hose). Placed in the fire
you'll have an abundance of coloured flames. Using 2 or 3 of
these can create a super effect.
A third option is to pre-make "shots" that can be flipped into
the fire. A "shot" is made by creating a tightly rolled ball of
paper, dipped in wood glue and the roll in a tray of the chosen
chemical. The chemical will coat the outside of the ball and
react when thrown into the fire. Store these "shots" in an egg
carton until needed - one "shot" per egg carton section !
Here's another 'sparkling thought' from the pages of The Leader.
You need enough sugar to give everyone a small handful. After
closing the campfire, have everyone walk past the fire embers and
toss their sugar onto the fire. You can compare the flashing
sparks and quick flares to happy thoughts, or simply enjoy these
thoughts in silence.
PHYSICAL LOCATION.
If you want to make your campfire even more memorable (is this
possible? - you ask) consider the actual location of your camp
fire. Anyone can light a fire in the middle of an open field -
why don't you try something different ?
If you're camping by a lake, why not construct a solid raft and
have the fire burning on it? Lighting it out of sight of your
assembled audience, then allowing it to drift into position
behind the camp fire leader will create a very special image.
Remember to suitably anchor the raft so that it doesn't keep
drifting past you !
An alternative may be to have the fire towed in by canoe (two
towing with a third canoe to provide a trailing anchor). The
canoeist's can bring the fire raft in and beach it on the shore
in front of the assembly.
Back on dry land, why not construct your fire lay a couple of
feet above the ground on a lashed frame? More tricky yet would be
to have the fire lay built on a secure frame and then hoisted
(using rope and pulley's) some distance above the ground. Once
the fire is lit, using a "magic fire start" idea, the campfire
could then be lowered to the ground to create another memorable
opening.
When you have a particularly large group of participants at a
campfire, instead on one central fire why not consider having
three or four fires in the circle ? In addition to giving a
greater illusion of warmth to participants, a 'stage' is
naturally formed between the fires for the campfire leader and
any groups doing skits, etc..
CONCLUSION.
As the flames from the fire burn down, and participants slowly
walk away in wonderment and appreciation, reflect on your
achievement. A campfire can be a memorable occasion for youth and
adult alike, but it doesn't happen by accident.
The day was long, we've worked and played.
And round this fire, we've good friends made;
We've shared a friendship fine and deep,
And now this circle leaves, to sleep.
As Campfire Leader you have put a lot of time and effort into
planning, setting the scene, and stage-managing the evenings
activities. Now it is time for you to walk away from the dying
embers, reflect on your success, enjoy a time of friendship and
fellowship with the scouts and scouters.
Sit back, relax, and start to figure out how you're going to lead
your next magic campfire so that it's even more memorable than
this one !
Good Luck, have fun, and let me know how it goes.
Scouter Stewart.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS.
I am particularly indebted to Scouter Bill Glover, DRC
(Training), Southern Alberta Region, who not only set me on the
trail of collecting these ideas, but he also provided me with a
copy of material he had gathered for a training course conducted
in Calgary.
A large vote of thanks is also due to the many contributors from
the International Scouter Echo (see The Leader - Aug/Sept '92)
who provide tangible proof and practical experience of the
meaning of Worldwide Brotherhood of Scouting. Not only is there
an unparalleled depth of knowledge available for anyone to draw
on, but - even though we may never actually meet one another - I
consider everyone of them a true friend. In particular, special
recognition is due to the following who provided much of the
information and a lot of inspiration :
Scouter Dave Tracewell, Lodi, California (&
moderator of The Scouter Echo)
Scouter Randy Carnduff, Regina, Saskatchewan.
Scouter Fred Welch, Colorado.
Scouter Brad George, Oklahoma.
Scouter Carl McCaskey, Florida.
Scouter John Meed, Regina, Sask.
Scouter Kihe Blackeagle, Texas.
Last, but certainly not least, the greatest acknowledgement has
to go to the youth members we do this for. They come in all
shapes & sizes; attitudes & aptitudes; motivated & mischievous;
but they make it all worthwhile.
Thank you, one and all.
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