CA249 MKII | |||||||
Airsoft model information Maker: Classic Army Model: CA005M Release year: 2005 Gun name: CA249 MII Gun type: Automatic Electric Gun, w/ Hop-Up system Motor type: ? (short type) Gearbox: 8mm bearing (version 2) Battery: 8.4v large Model length: ?mm Barrel length: 510mm Bore diameter: 6.08mm Model weight: 6600g Calibre: 6mm BBs Magazine capacity: - standard: 68 rounds - hi-cap: 190 rnd. short, 300 rnd. long, 2400 rnd. box Muzzle velocity: 85-95 m/s Rate of fire: ? rpm Price: ? yen |
Real steel information (taken from Federation of American Scientists) Manufacturer: Fabrique Nationale Manufacturing, Inc. Model number: M249 Gun type: squad automatic weapon, light machine gun Gun length: 40.87 inches (w/ bipod and tools) Barrel length: ?mm Gun weight: 15.16 punds Calibre: 5.56x45mm Magazine capacity: 30, 100 or 200 rounds Muzzle velocity: ? m/s Rate of fire: 725 rpm Unit replacement cost: $4087 |
||||||
Comments (2005/10/19): There comes a time in airsoft when you get a little too serious about the game. That time probably comes when you buy something as large, heavy and beastly as a M249 SAW. There's a definite line to be crossed in buying an airsoft model that will cost you some $1000+ just for the model itself and a single box magazine. Why did I buy a SAW? Because I'm a high speed, supporting fire, full auto maniac. And face it, being on the business end of machine gun is just scary. Classic Army's M249 (designated CA249) cost me $935 at a local airsoft shop (A&A Airsoft), $110 for the 2400 round electric auto winding box mag, and then another $120 for various internal work. According to the guys at A&A, the SAW won't last a single hi-cap magazine in stock form. The main issue is the piston apparently, so you'll want that replaced--I bought a Deepfire titanium tooth piston. I believe I also changed the anti-reversal latch to Systema (standard upgrade for all Classic Army AEGs), Systema spring guide with bearing, Systema titanium piston head with bearing, and all new wiring with Deans connectors. I think you'll want to consider what I did pretty much standard if you buy a CA249. What's metal on this model? It would probably be easier to list what isn't metal. The side hand panels, the heat shield, the carrying handle grip, the pistol grip and the stock are all plastic. Everything else as far as I can tell is metal. Make no mistake, this is a heavy model, and solid as anything. However, I did manage to split the stock along the seam. I believe this happened from running with the model with my right hand gripping the thin part of the stock rather pistol grip. It's easily remedied with some tape (and probably fixable with modeling or super glue). If you buy the Para model, or later upgrade to a Para stock, this won't be an issue. Also, removing the heat shield scratches the outer barrel. This isn't much of a problem because the heat shield will cover the barrel when it's attached. The SAW is comfortable to use for being so large. With the solid stock, the battery fits into the back (the butt of the stock must be removed with an Allen key--5/32" or whatever's closest in metric), and it can be carried comfortably one with hand if you tuck the stock under your arm. You'll want a sling for any extending length of carrying the SAW; I use a Specter Gear SOP sling. Get used to carrying the SAW with your arms from time to time, you don't want to let your back do all the work all day long. The bipod is a little tricky to fold in and out, but I find when folding in insert the left then the right, and when folding out do the opposite. You may never use the bipod, so you may want to remove it. Also, when folding the bipod, you may scratch the front of your box mag. Anyway, my CA249 shoots about 340 FPS with Excel 0.20 gram BBs. That's pretty good for a stock spring, which one would usually expect to be under the 1 Joule mark (328 FPS w/ 0.20g BBs). The rate of fire is excellent, 20+ BBs a second with a 9.6 volt battery. Interestingly, I'm not noticing much difference between a 9.6 volt and 8.4 volt battery connected to the SAW. It may be the Deans connectors, which can handle 30 amps versus the 5 amps of Tamiya connectors. You'll want to be very careful of the hop-up, it doesn't work like a regular AEG. There is printed warning that came with my manuals and leaflets. It reads; Caution: The hop up unit on the CA249 MKII requires very fine adjustments. Do not over-adjust the hop up or you will risk jamming the gun and destroying your piston. For additional information, please inquire with your local dealer or visit www.spartanimports.com. So don't go too high with the hop or bad things will happen to you. Use very small adjustments. The CA249 comes with a 300 round hi-cap magazine, but you won't use it, just throw it in with the rest of your M16 mags. What you'll absolutely want to buy is Classic Army's 2400 round box mag. It resembles a 200 round box mag on the real thing. Just a big green box that holds the winding mechanism and a section for the BBs separated by a divider. Be careful not to drop any BBs into the wrong side of the divider, they may get jammed in the gears. The box is powered by a single 9 volt battery. It operates by pushing a red button the bottom of the box. You can push and hold to wind, or you can push the button in a little more until it clicks, at which time it will continue to wind until you push the button again to turn it off. Unlike the M16 C-mag, this electric box mag is actually worth the time to use. The winding spring is much stronger and will continue to feed at least a regular hi-cap worth of BBs, so 300 or more rounds with one wind. Every once in a while the BBs will jam. They have to pass through a spring angled at 45-degrees after all. Just tap the button and they will feed again. Don't bother buying two boxes, it's actually faster to open the cover and fill the resevoir than it is to remove one box and connect another. I can't even remove my box, it's stuck in place. When I tried by tapping it off with a hammer, I ended up cracking it. Thankfully it was the winding half of the box, so I covered it with some OD duct tape. Oh, it's much easier to attach the black box that goes into the mag well first, then the green box which slides under the SAW. Also, when finished firing, it is possible to remove the small black box from the mag well without remove the large green box. But it requires you to hold down the little clip on the top of the green box, so get something long and thin to do so before removing the black box. It's fairly important you do so to let your magazine unwind before storing it away for any length of time. The black box can be inserted back into the mag well by holding down that green clip the same way when removing the black box. It is entirely impossible to conserve ammo while using a SAW. The first day I used it, I must have shot between 8000 and 10,000 BBs. When you have that much ammo available, it's that easy to wind, and the model shoots as fast as it does, you'll go through ammo like it's going out of style. Have a large reserve of ammo with you when you field the SAW. I carry at least 5000 rounds of loose ammo with me at all times. My CA249 didn't run all that well when I first got it. It needs some break in time. This may not be an issue if you replace the Classic Army gears with something else. Anyway, to break the SAW in, remove the top pin holding the stock in place. Rotate the stock down, then open the feed tray cover. Hit the release on the top of the gearbox closest to the stock (it's pretty strong), and the spring guide and spring should pop out the back. Remove them, and make sure you have a battery connected. Now place the SAW in fire and hold the trigger. The gears will spin, let them do so for a while. Then reassemble your SAW and test it. I had to do this in the field just before a game started. Once I had, the SAW shot just fine and has been doing great ever since. This doesn't feel so much like a review as it does general advice. I feel that if you're buying a SAW, you already know what you're doing, you've been playing the game for a while. No one buys a SAW as their first airsoft model. And anyone who buys a SAW themselves obviously has a lot of cash to drop on the game, so it's simply a matter of getting your SAW running well. You already know if you want one of these or not. It's not an impulse buy like another AEG or gas pistol. Not everyone wants to lug around a 15 pound machine gun. But for those who do, it's well worth it. Entire squads of men will fear you because of the sheer overwhelming firepower you can deliver to the battlefield. Anyone who's used my SAW loves it. It can be a deciding factor in game when employed properly. It will certainly set you apart from everyone else. If you're looking for a machine gun to use in airsoft, go with one of Classic Army's CA249 series, you won't be disappointed. Update (2006/05/17): So I've had my SAW for over half a year now, and is there anything new to report? Plenty, here's what I can tell you: Loctite all your screws. The SAW has more little screws than anything, and they can come loose and they will get lost. So either tighten them after every game or Loctite them in place. Also, if you bought a full stock version like I did, you may have noticed that it's coming apart at the seam. Mine did because I would run with it with one hand on the handguards and the other on the thin part of the stock. You can superglue it or use tape; I used both and it's pretty good right at the moment. Actually, I dropped my SAW when I slipped on some ice (quite comical to anybody who saw it). I was holding it with one hand and as I flew into the air I let go of the SAW and it dropped from a height of several feet onto the ice. It landed directly on the stock, and as a result the stock cracked. The buttplate was ripped off and it took some fixing to get the plastic in one piece so it could be reattached. Thus, I'm considering getting the fixed skeletal stock and placing the battery in the box mag although I prefer the weight of the battery as rearmost as I can get it. Finally, I bought the Classic Army lower RIS accessory for my SAW. It requires permanent modifications to the front end of the SAW, and you will not be able to go back to handguards if you opt for the lower RIS. I cannot say if the upper RIS will require modification, but I don't think it will. Anyway, even with all the mishappenings, I still love my SAW, but I don't field her as much because she's such an ammo hog and the cost quickly adds up.. |
|||||||
Return to The Airsoft Model Database - Automatic Electric Guns - Classic Army |