SLR105 A1 | |||||||
Airsoft model information Maker: Classic Army Model: CA012M Release year: 2005 Model name: SLR105 A1 Model type: Automatic Electric Gun, w/ Hop-Up system Motor type: high performance motor (short type) Gearbox: 7mm oily steel bushing (version 3) Battery: 8.4v large Model length: ?mm Barrel length: 463mm Bore diameter: 6.08mm Model weight: 2684g Calibre: 6mm BBs Magazine capacity: - standard: ? rounds - hi-cap: 500 rounds Muzzle velocity: 85-95 m/s Rate of fire: ? rpm Price: ? yen |
Real steel information (taken from Arsenal) Manufacturer: Arsenal Inc. Model number: SLR-105 A1 Gun type: assault rifle Gun length: 970mm Barrel length: 415mm Gun weight: 3150g (without magazine) Calibre: 5.45x39mm Magazine capacity: 30 rounds Muzzle velocity: 900 m/s Rate of fire: 40 rpm (practical) Cost: $625 |
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Comments (2005/11/07): I bought myself a SLR105 A1 for a very practical reason: I wanted/needed an AEG to use in the winter. It's well known the version 3 gearbox is much stronger and better designed than the version 2 commonly used in M16s and MP5s. It can handle higher powered springs without breakage. And it's also less likely to crack in cold temperatures. Considering snow can be on the ground from as early as October to as late as March in New England, it's a good idea to own a dedicated winter model. A version 3 gearbox, space for a large battery and high capacity magazines (less fumbling for magazines past all that heavy winter gear with thick gloves on) are all good features to have on a winter model. Besides that, this model is solid. As solid as any other Classic Army AEG I've handled, if not more so. There's no handguard rattle, unlike some M16s whose handguards can be a little loose. The first thing you notice when picking it up is how light the SLR is. It's actually lighter than the Tokyo Marui AK-47. It's roughly the same weight as the Beta-Spetsnaz, but it feels lighter than even that. I believe this is because while Tokyo Marui uses low boiling point metal on their models (in accordance with Japanese law), Classic Army is free to use lightweight aluminium, so the weight is decreased and a lighter front end means a more balanced model. Some might complain about the trademarks on the SLR105 A1. To me, it doesn't really matter. Trademarks mean nothing. But for those who want to know what they are, it reads: "[number ten with circle around it] KG 44 6616, Model SLR 105, Cal. 6 mm, SER. 000396 (my unique serial number), [arsenal symbol] Arsenal, Las Vegas, Nev. U.S.A." So it's an American made AK-74. Big deal, nobody's going to read your trademarks in the middle of a skirmish and say, "hey, that's not a real AK-74!" In fact, I don't know anybody that reads someone else's trademarks unless it's pointed out to them. The plastic parts on the SLR105 are the expected hand guards, pistol grip and stock. However, the rear sight block is also plastic. Why is this so? I doubt this part on the real SLR is plastic, and I doubt Classic Army couldn't produce this piece in metal. It doesn't bother me much, and I know G&P produces a metal upgrade if so desired. Everything else as far as I can tell is metal. And the large compensator is a nice shiny metal rather than a flat black like the rest of the model, and is apparently made from steel. The only potential problems I can see with Classic Army's SLR are the commonly lost screws, which is easily preventable with some tightening and covering with tape (some like to use Loctite). The screws holding the stock on are most susceptible to being lost, so secure those first. It's not a bad idea to tighten the four screws on the underside of the receiver and in the magwell, and the four little screws holding the trigger guard in place. There is a flaw with the AKs in general, and that's the pin holding the mag catch in place. Mine's already fallen out, but I pushed it back in and placed a strip of tape to cover both sides. While I didn't have this issue with my Tokyo Marui Beta-Spetsnaz, it would be prudent to ensure you don't lose that little pin, I don't know if a replacement is available. Of course, you will scratch some parts of your SLR. Flip the selector switch about a dozen times and you'll have a nice, curved silver line where the selector travels when switched to full-auto and semi. This happens on the Tokyo Marui as well, but you get an indent in the plastic receiver instead. I would leave the receiver cover alone as well, I took mine off and it was a big pain in the ass to get back on, it scratched the release button and even then the button didn't pop out all the way when I replaced the cover, so I had to pull it out fully with a pair of pliers. There's nothing under there, so leave it alone. The SLR105 A1 comes with the typical instruction manual and Classic Army catalogue (volume 4), but also with the unjamming/cleaning rod and front sight adjustment tool. Classic Army models are supplied with hi-cap magazines, and the long, black AK-74 magazine holds 500 rounds. It's less curved than the AK-47 magazine, and is made of plastic. There's no risk of losing the floorplate, it's held in place with a screw. The magazine is really tight in the magwell, unlike my Beta-Spetsnaz which had mag wobble even with Tokyo Marui magazines. Speaking of which, Tokyo Marui AK-47 magazines are compatible with the SLR, but the SLR magazine is not backwards compatible with my Beta-Spetsnaz--it doesn't lock in place. Also, forget using G&P standards (mid-caps), they don't work with the SLR at all (without modification, maybe some Dremel experts can fix that). I don't know about other brands of AK-47 or AK-74 magazines, you'll have do your own testing. The hop-up slider is not loose, it stays in place when set. Forward for normal, backward for hop. A 9.6v battery (normal 4x2 configuration, not the AK 'one sticking off the end' configuration) will fit in the stock. The buttplate is held on by two screws, so it's unlikely you'll lose your buttplate, but you do have two screws to keep track of when connecting your battery. Even with an 8.4v battery, the rate of fire is impressive, 20+ BBs a second. And that's on a 7mm gearbox with bushings, not bearings. Then again, I'm using Deans Ultra connectors, not the standard Tamiya. Much like the real thing, the SLR105 doesn't seem very accurate; this may be due to the hop bucking, or it may be due to the inner barrel. Both are common upgrades on Classic Army models. Do I recommend this model? I sure do, it's a lightweight, solid AK-74 clone. Between this and the Tokyo Marui, I recommend this. It's better made, definitely stronger, more balanced and pretty unique. Classic Army is getting better and better with each successive model, and it's getting easier to recommend them as I have more firsthand experience with their quality. |
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