Walk
along the Singalila Ridge Kanchenjunga, Everest and Pandim awaits you |
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Manebhanjan Chitrey Meghma
Tonglu Tumbling Gairibus Kalapokhri Sandakphu Gurdum Srikhola Rimbik |
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‘bhuniazone’ team explores and documents Sandakpu and
Singalila National Park: |
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Sandakphu
Falut Trek along the Singalila ridge: The Singalila ridge (Singali
is a pass communicating Nepal with Sikkim near Kanchenjunga south face. La =
Pass) has
originated at the south summit of Kanchenjunga. It has moved southwards along
with a comfortable down gradient for the trekkers and met the plain at
Manebhanjan and Dhotrey. Too much historical importance to spell about this
area. Many expeditions to
Kanchenjunga and many invasions to Sikkim and Tibet by the Britishers in the
past have traversed this route. Breathtaking views of Kanchenjunga, Everest and Pandim along with other adjacent peaks keep the trekkers refreshed all along the route. Government has declared a 78 sq. Km. area of forest in the route as Singalila National Park in 1991. |
Singalila RidgeTrekking trail: From Bikheybhanjan to Sandakphu. The trek path is along the Singalila ridge that is the dividing line between Nepal and West Bengal. Nepal starts from the west side of the ridge. |
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Together
We Live: A
couple watching the effects of dawn on the Everest family. (bhuniazone HQ photo) |
SANDAKPHU
thy
name Contrary to few recent write-ups
by some tourists and authors the name “Sandakphu” is not in any way related
to the poison plant Nilo Bikh (Scientific name: Aconitum ferox). As explained by Niladidi at Tumbling the term
“Sandakphu” is a gradual descends from the term “Santaphur” which means “the
dwelling place of a saint”. “Sadhuji ka dera” is probably the oldest house
and that is still there at Sandakphu. 26 years back during my first trek to
Sandakphu I actually stayed in that hut. Of course the poison plant thickly populates the area surrounding Sandakphu and that’s why the name of a nearby place “Bikheybhanjan”, which means “Valley of poison” is there. |
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Adventure Trek to Sandakphu through Singalila
National Park: (6 Days 5 Nights) 12th October 2005 (Wednesday): Ghum is the junction.
Many tourist spot links have converged here. The Ghum is again connected with
the train link at New Jalpaiguri and air link at Bagdogra. From New
Jalpaiguri we availed a Maruti Van and reached Manebhanjan (2010 M) via Ghum.
Had Lunch in Mr. Jiwan Chetry’s hotel. He appointed his student Raju to work
as the guide cum porter with us. Stared the Trek at 4 pm. and reached Chitrey
(2500 M) in one and half hour. Distance 2.25 Kilometers. Night stay at
Chitrey. 13th October (Thursday): Trek from Chitrey (2500
M) to Tumbling (2910 M). Distance 9 Kilometers. Started at 6.30 early in the
morning. Had Breakfast at Lamaydhura. Via Meghma (2850 M) reached Tumbling at
11.30 am. Stayed the night at Niladidir Hotel (Shikhar Lodge) at Tumbling. 14th October (Friday): Tumbling to Kalapokhri
(3000 M). Distance 14 Kilometers. Trek started from Tumbling at 6.30 am. Had
breakfast on the way that we brought from Shikhar Lodge and reached
Kalapokhri at 1.30 pm. Stayed the night in the Pandim Lodge at kalapokhri. 15th October (Saturday): Left Kalapokhri at 7 am
and headed for Sandakphu (3611 M). Reached at 11.30 am. Distance 7
Kilometers. Night stay in Sherpa Challet lodge. 16th October (Sunday): Sandakphu to Gurdum.
Distance 14 Kilometers. Started at 7.30 am and reached at 2 pm. 17th October (Monday): Gurdum to Rimbik. Distance 7 Kilometers. Started at 6.30 am and reached Rimbik at 11.30 am. |
Mr.
Jiwan Chetry and Mrs. Chetry: Well known as “Masterjee”. An influential and a
very helpful person at Manebhanjan. Must meet him before starting at Mane. He
will be a great help on any unforeseen problem. Delight your test buds with
the cooking experience of Mrs. Chetry in their hotel.
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Hawk’s Nest: The only lodge at Chitrey. Rs. 150/- for a 4 bedded room. Rs.50/- per bed in dormitory. Dine in the kitchen of the Dorjee family. Common toilet unattached. |
Important information: Singalila National Park: Total area 78 Sq. Km. At least one porter cum guide with a trek team is
a must as per Govt. rule. The charge of the porter is Rs. 250/- without food
(Sukha) a day. There are registered porters for the job and the rate is
fixed. The rate of hiring a 4 wheel drive (4 X 4) “Land
rover” is Rs. 3,500/- for the up and down trip and Rs. 300/- extra for each
night halt as per tourist’s wish. 43 such vehicles are there at Mane. Guide
charge is extra. The 1st check post to enter the Singalila National Park is at a distance of 1 KM after Tumbling. |
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Important information: Singalila National Park remains closed for the
tourists from 16th June to 15th September. Snowfall
usually starts in the last week of December and continues intermittently till
February. Important times to visit: 21st Mach to 30th
April:
Reddish flame of Flowering Rhododendrons all around. Clear sky is luck.
Stormy wind with rain sometimes. 16th Sept. to 15th
December:
Clear sky with best view of mountains and less wind. Most comfortable and
best view. 25th December to 31st January: Snowfall. Heavy wind along the trail. |
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Kanchenjunga from Chitrey. Throughout the whole trek she accompanies in various views from various angles and with variety of moods |
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Kanchenjunga family and Pandim from Tumbling. Soft sun of the dawn illuminating the third highest in the world. (bhuniazone HQ photo) |
Important information: Entry fee to
Singalila National Park: Person: Rs.25/- each (Indian). Rs.100/-
each (Foreigner). Still Camera: Rs. 25/-
each Movie Camera: Rs. 250/-
each (Handycam too) There are
several check posts throughout the route: Ist post: 1 km after Tumbling 2nd post: Gairibus 3rd post: Bikheybhanjan 4th post: Sandakphu Entry fee of Rs. 250/- for a Handycam is highly objectionable |
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Meghma: The oldest halt in Sandakphu trekking trail. Tonglu is at the top of the hump behind. Tumbling is at 2 km distance on the left. |
Gairibus: Gleneagles Trekker’s hut. There is a secluded forest area for the breeding of the Red Pandas. |
Kalapokhri: The holy pond of the Buddhist people. |
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Tumba is a locally made beer.
It is served in this wooden container (the name is from the
shape of the container) along with a straw. Mixing with yeast ferments locally cultivated
Rye and Millets. It takes 4 to7days to booze, depending on the climatic
temperature. The whole fermented material is then served to suck with a
straw. Finished up? No problem! Just mix a little warm water and use your straw again. But never shake the Tumba. It will generate headache. Available at every halt along the route. Cost is Rs. 30/- only. So trek the whole day and relax with “Tumba” at evening before the fireplace. |
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The Poison plant: Nilobikh or Bikobikh or Akphale (Nepali) Scientific Name:
Aconitum ferox A Perennial herb. Its
bulbous root is very poisonous. It is available from 10,000 to 14,000 feet
altitude. Flowering (blue colour) time is from July to September. The
effective alkaloids of the root are used for making medicines. The name of the village Bikheybhanjan has been derived, as
the whole area is full of these wild herbs. Bikh = Poison. Bikhey Bhanjan =
Valley of Poison.
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Everest
Family
The trek route to Falut is visible. |
Sunrise at Sandakphu |
Kanchenjunga
Family
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Sandakphu clear sky view: Hotel Sherpa
Chalet visible at Sandakphu. Costly hotel: Rs.600/- for a 4 bedded room.
Small and congested rooms. Common bathroom. Good view of the mountains from
the north facing rooms. Gleneagles Trekker’s Hut appears to be better accommodation. PWD Bungalow and forest bungalow appears to be the best in Sandakphu. |
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Gurdum: Himalayan Lodge Rs. 260/- for 4 bedded room. Sleep at night along with the flowing music of Gurdum khola |
Sirikhola or Srikhola Khola = River |
Dawn on Pandim at Sandakphu(bhuniazone HQ photo) |
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