NORTHWICH 1914

 

Northwich is a market and union town and head of a county court district at the conflux of the rivers Weaver and Dane, with a station on the Chester, Altrincham and Manchester section of the Cheshire Lines Railway, 174 miles from London, 18 east-north-east from Chester, 22 south-south-west from Manchester, and 11 south-east from Warrington.  The advantageous position of Northwich, on the banks of the river Weaver, its connection with the Manchester Ship Canal by means of the Weaver Navigation, and its contiguity in the Trent and Mersey canal add materially to the commercial prosperity of the town: vessels of 350 tons burthen can at present pass up the Weaver as far as Winsford, and upwards of 1,000 craft, including many steamers, are employed in conveying salt to Liverpool from Northwich and Winsford: the town is in the Northwich division of the county and petty sessional division and hundred of Northwich, and in the rural deanery of Middlewich and archdeaconry and diocese of Chester.

 

The Local Government Act, 1858, was adopted here 26th June 1862, and the district re-constituted by the Act 38 and 39 Vict. C. 76 (1875) and enlarged by 43 and 44 Vict. C. 132 (1880); it formerly comprised Northwich, Witton-cum-Twambrooks, Castle-Northwich, and parts of Hartford, Winnington, and Leftwich, but these have now, under a Local Government Board Order dated 10th Sept. 1894, been united in a single parish, called “Northwich,” governed, under the “Local Government Act, 1894,” by an Urban District Council of 18 members, and divided into three wards.  Northwich proper consists of 13 acres and constitutes the centre of the town, with Witton on the east and Castle Northwich on the west.  The town stands at the junction of the main roads from Chester to Manchester, and from Nantwich and Crewe to Runcorn and Warrington.  The streets are narrow, and irregularly built, and many of the houses are of considerable antiquity, but owing to the immense excavations occasioned by the constant pumping up of brine at a depth of 35 to 40 yards, which creates large chasms, and the super-incumbent weight, subsidences of the ground not unfrequently occur, involving the partial or complete destruction of the buildings upon it, and many of the houses have to be screwed and bolted together to keep them secure; a portion of the High street, which from this cause has sunk below the level of the Weaver, was in 1892 raised 6 feet, and again in 1901 3 feet 6 inches; the town is supplied with water from springs at Cote Brook, some 8 ½  miles distant, and purchased by the late Local Board; and is lighted with gas from works at Crum Hill and Cross Street, the property of an Incorporated Company.

 

The ancient parochial Chapelry of Witton comprises the townships of Witton-cum-Twambrooks, Northwich, Castle Northwich, Winnington, Hartford, Hulse, Lach Dennis, Birches, Lostock Gralam, and a small portion of Rudheath Lordship; the six last named townships will be found under separate headings.

 

The church of St. Helen, which stands on high ground near the river Dane, is a large edifice of Eddisbury new red sandstone, of Perpendicular Gothic, erected about 1400, and the tower a century later, and consists of apsidal chancel, clerestoried nave of five bays, aisles, south porch, and an embattled western tower, containing a clock and 8 bells: the aisles are continued eastwards on either side of the chancel for one bay: the east end of the south aisle was formerly a chantry; the chancel was rebuilt and three stained windows placed in the apex, in 1852, and a reredos of carved oak was erected in 1878: the roof, of richly carved oak, dates from 1560: the stained west window is a memorial to the Rev. George Gibbons, a former vicar 1842  d.1876; there is another memorial window to George Henry Darwell M.R.C.V.S  d.1889, and one to the Rev. William Walker Estcourt Harrison B.A. curate here from 1888, d.1894; recently a new window has been inserted in the south aisle in memory of the late Mrs. Sanders, and another is to the memory of the late Thomas Ward F.R.G.S.  The church was re-pewed in 1844 and again in 1878, when the galleries were taken down, and has now chair seating accommodation for 800.  The register dates from the year 1561.  The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £230, with residence, in the gift of the Bishop of Chester, and held since 1913 by the Rev. Hugh Noel Nowell M.A., of Ayerst Hall, Cambridge.

 

The church of the Holy Trinity, Castle Northwich, erected in 1842 by the Trustees of the Weaver Navigation, under the Act 3 and 4 Vict. C. 124, and standing on a considerable elevation near the bank of the river Weaver, is a building of stone consisting of chancel, nave, and a turret with octagonal spire containing one bell.  In 1899 a new organ was provided at a cost of £375: there are 250 sittings.  The register dates from the year 1842.  The living is a perpetual curacy, net yearly value £200, with residence, in the gift of the Bishop of Chester, and held since 1913 by the Rev. Alfred William Webb.

 

Danebridge St. Paul’s is an ecclesiastical parish formed March 10th 1845 out of Davenham parish and the parochial Chapelry of Witton.  The old church, erected in 1840, at a cost of about £2,300, was a building of stone, in the Early English style, consisting of chancel, nave of five bays, aisles, south porch and a western turret containing one bell.  Owing to the subsidence of the ground, the church was closed in 1897 and taken down in 1908.  A temporary church was erected in 1909 at a cost of about £700.  The register dates from the year 1849.  The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £203, with residence, in the gift of the Bishop of Chester, and held since 1889 by the Rev. Charles Packer, B.A. of St. John’s College, Cambridge, chaplain to the Northwich Union (yearly value £20), and surrogate; the Vicarage house, purchased at a cost of £1,000, is on Castle Hill in Castle Northwich.

            The Catholic church of St. Wilfred, in Witton Street, was erected in 1856, at a cost, including the schools, of about £4,000.  The church is a building of brick with stone dressings in the Gothic style, the high alter being of marble and a copy of the high alter of the Cathedral of Bruges.  In 1901-2 the church was enlarged and an organ provided, at a cost of £1,000.  Several of the windows are stained; there are 500 sittings.

            The Congregational chapel, in Castle, erected in 1882, is an edifice of red brick, and will seat 650 persons.

            The United Methodist chapel, in Middlewich road, erected in 1881, is of brick, and will seat about 200.

            The United Methodist chapel in Witton Street, erected in 1854, is an edifice of red brick, and will seat about 300.

            There is a Primitive Methodist chapel, also in Witton Street, erected in 1877, seating 620 persons, and another, in Zion Street, Castle, built in 1864, with sittings for about 200.

            The Wesleyan Methodist chapel in Witton Street, erected in 1881, will seat 400 persons.

            The Wesleyan Methodist chapel, Leftwich, erected in 1889, at a cost of about £7,000, is an edifice of red brick, with stone dressings, in the Classic style, seating 900 persons.

            The Salvation Army have a hall in Tabley Street.

            The Cemetery, in Church Road, was opened in 1890; it is 6 ½ acres in extent, and is under the control of the joint committee of the Northwich Urban Council and the Parish councils of Winnington and Rudheath.

 

The Brunner Public Library and Salt Museum was originally founded and presented to the town by the Rt. Hon. Sir John Brunner bart. In 1887.  Owing, however, to the subsidence of the ground this building was in 1908 pulled down, and the present building erected on the site of the old one.  The library and museum was opened in September 1909, by the Rt. Hon. W. Runeiman M.P. and contains a newsroom, magazine room, reference library, lending library, ladies’ room, museum, &c.; attached to the building is residence for the librarian.  The library contains about 9,000 volumes, of which 7,500 form the lending department.  The Salt Museum contains what is perhaps the most comprehensive collection of rock and other salts known to exist.

            The Victoria Club, in John Street, originally a chapel, was opened 28th July 1877.  The Gladstone Club, in Witton Street, opened in 1887, and the Constitutional Club, also in Witton Street, was opened in 1888.

            The old Drill Hall, in Leftwich, erected 1867, is a spacious edifice of brick, holding about 500 people, and is let for concerts and lectures.

 

The Market Hall, between Market Street and Apple Market Street, and erected in 1823, is a large and commodious edifice of brick; the market, held on Friday, is for corn, butter, butcher’s meat, vegetables and other commodities, and is well attended, but corn is chiefly sold from sample in a large room at the “Crown Anchor.” Fairs are held on April 10th and August 2nd.

            The Auction Market, Church Walk, is held every fortnight, for cattle.

Two weekly newspapers are published here, called the “Northwich Guardian” and the “Northwich Chronicle.”

 

The Verdin Technical Schools and Gymnasium, in London Road, was erected at a total cost of £12,000, by Sir Joseph Verdin bart. J.P. from designs by Mr. Joseph Cawley, of Northwich, and opened July 24th 1897, by the Dowager Duchess of Westminster; it is a large structure of red brick, containing various class rooms, a school of art, consisting of antique room, modelling and elementary room, a lecture room, preparation, physical and chemical laboratories, also workshops for plumbing, mechanical engineering and carving, laundries and kitchens, and is under a body of managers, consisting of members nominated by the Verdin Trustees, The County Education Committee and the Northwich Urban District Council.  The office of the Administrative Sub-Committee of the Education Committee for Northwich and district area also adjoins the above schools.

 

There are several iron foundries, and in Castle Northwich and Leftwich, are dockyards for flat and boat building. Brick and tile making are carried on, but the inhabitants of Northwich and vicinity are chiefly employed in the chemical and salt works, rock salt mines, and also in the dockyards, in which flat-bottomed boats of a peculiar construction are built for the conveyance of salt.

            In the neighbourhood of Northwich are numerous salt works and rock salt mines, from which there is an immense export trade, and a moderate island trade is also carried on.  The white salt is shipped to America, its chief market, and also to the East Indies; rock salt is principally shipped to Belgium, Holland, Denmark, Australia, and South America.  The average quantity of white and rock salt exported annually from this locality and Winsford, about 6 miles distant, is now (1914) about 950,000 tons.

 

Rock salt, it is stated, was first discovered accidentally, near Marbury, in 1670, in the course of a search then being made, for coal.  The pits now in operation are in the townships of Witton, Wincham, and Marston, adjoining Northwich, and belong to the Salt Union Limited.  There are two beds of rock salt, an upper and lower, both of which lie horizontally: the upper bed, about 25 yards in thickness, is found about 50 yards from the surface; underlying it is a stratum 10 yards deep of very hard marlstone, immediately beneath which lies the lower bed of rock salt, which is about 30 yards thick.  The rock salt is drawn up in large tubs, containing about half a ton each, its appearance resembling that of smoky quartz, and is often mixed with clay, or coloured dark yellow or brown, or coral red, but is sometimes met with of a pure white, as pellucid as the purest glass, and possessing a lustre whiter than that of most crystal; this sort however, is only found in very small quantities, specimens of which are generally kept for the inspection of visitors.

            The Marston Rock mine is about 319 yards in depth, and contains an excavated area of about 35 acres.  The roof is supported by prodigious pillars of rock, 30 feet in diameter, 16 feet high, and about 75 feet apart; in June, 1844, this mine was visited by the Emperor Nicholas of Russia, during his stay in this country, and in 1854 the proprietors entertained eighty members of the British Association to a splendid banquet, held at the bottom of the mine, the principal parts of which were brilliantly illuminated for the occasion.

            White salt, is made from brine, pumped out of the earth into a reservoir, whence it is conveyed by pipes into salt pans, which are shallow vessels of iron, varying from 30 to 100 feet long, and from 20 to 27 feet wide, with a depth of about a foot and a half, the large surface thus exposed greatly facilitating evaporation; the salt pans are covered with a wooden roof, and the necessary heat is supplied by furnaces under each of the pans, the flues of which are carried into lofty chimneys.  During the process of manufacture, a film of white granular substance is continually forming on the surface of the brine and sinking to the bottom of the pan, i.e. deposited as salt, and in this way, the various kinds of salt are made, the difference depending on the degree of heat applied: in making the coarse grained salt, the brine is heated to 270 deg. Farenheit: the salt formed in this process is somewhat harder than the common salt; the large-grained or fishing salt, requires a heat of only 130 degrees Farenheit, but is the strongest salt of all; no agitation is produced by the heat on the brine in this case, and the slowness of evaporation allows the chloride of sodium to form in large and nearly cubical crystals; with this heat it takes from seven to fourteen days for the salt to form.  In making the stoved or lump salt, the brine is raised to boiling heat (226 degrees Farenheit), and the salt deposits almost instantaneously: the fires are then slackened, and the salt, after being collected at the sides of the pan with iron rakes, is put into wooden tubs of an oblong form and drained, and is afterwards dried in stove-houses heated by a continuation of the flues passing under the evaporation pans; the brine is generally found at a depth from 45 to 85 yards, and is no doubt formed simply by springs of water, originally fresh, flowing over a vast bed of rock salt; it has been estimated that every pint of brine contains five ounces of salt, and to make 100 tons of salt from 50 to 70 tons of coal are required.

            Northwich Salt Compensation Board, appointed under the Brine Pumping (Compensation for Subsidence) Provisional Order Confirmation Act, 1896, has its office in Brockhurst Street.

 

The Police Station and head quarters of the Northwich Police Division is in Whalley Road; the force here consists of 1 superintendent, 5 sergeants, 1 acting sergeant, and 28 constables.

            The Urban District Isolation Hospital is at Wade Brook, but is only occasionally used.

            New Public Baths are now (1914) being erected in Victoria Road.

            Northwich is the headquarters of C Squadron, Cheshire (Earl of Chester’s) Imperial Yeomanry. The Drill Hall is in Navigation Road.

            The Victoria Infirmary, pleasantly situated in the Verdin Park, of which it was previously the mansion, is available for 25 patients, 20 men, 10 women, and 5 children.  On the ground floor are the convalescent room, operating theatre and lavatory, the boardroom, consulting room, kitchen, scullery and domestic departments; on the first floor are the matron’s sitting room, two male wards of five beds each, matron’s private store closet, female ward with two beds, child’s ward with one bed, bath room, matron’s bedroom and a spare room; on the second floor are two servants’ bedrooms; the infirmary is supplied with every convenience, including the most modern surgical appliances.  At the back is a mortuary and a laundry.  A new wing was added in 1902, at a cost of £4,000, as a memorial to Her late Majesty Queen Victoria.

            The Verdin Park itself, opened to the public by Lord Stanley of Preston, in Oct. 1887, was formerly part of the Winnington Bank estate, and is about 20 acres in extent. There are carriage entrances from Castle Street and Winnington Street, and a foot entrance from Winnington Hill.  The Park affords a wide expanse of grass land, and is diversified with borders and beds planted with evergreens and trees: there are three good bowling greens, and three double courts of tennis ground, as well as a cricket ground.  At each carriage entrance is a lodge.  The works were carried out under the superintendence of Mr. James Holland, architect, of Northwich; the park and pleasure grounds and infirmary, all in Castle Northwich, were presented in 1887, by the late Robert Verdin esq. M.P. to whom a statue has been erected in the park.

 

Northwich is mentioned in the Domesday Survey, compiled 1055-6.  During the Civil War it was visited, 25 Feb. 1642-3, by the Parliamentary forces, who proceeded to fortify the place, and furnished it with a garrison; in the following March it was spiritedly but vainly attacked by a detachment of Royalists, under Capt. Spotswood, but in Dec. 1643, in consequence of the defeat of Sir William Brereton, near Northwich, the Roundheads were compelled to withdraw their garrison and abandon the place.  The manor of Witton, together with that of Le Crosse, was vested in the Venables family, Barons of Kinderton, and it continued in the possession of their descendants for many generations; in the year 1757 the manor was purchased by Sir Peter Leycester bart. from the Vernons, and the manorial rights are now held by the Trustees of the late Lord de Tabley (d. 1887, ext.), who held a court here.

            The land is held by many small owners.  The area of the civil parish and Urban District of Northwich is 1,286 acres of land and 112 of water; rateable value, £74,959. the population in 1911 was 18,151, including 200 inmates and 9 officials in the workhouse.  The population of the Urban District wards in 1911 was:-

Castle, 5,649; Northwich, 3,800; Witton, 8,702.  The population of the St. Helen, Witton otherwise Northwich), ecclesiastical parish in 1912 was 23,968 and of Danebridge ecclesiastical parish, 9,469.

 

CASTLE NORTHWICH.—The manor of Castle Northwich was in 1816 claimed by the 5th Earl of Dysart, and is now held by Lord Tollemache, a descendant of the 3rd Earl, who is lord of the manor and chief landowner.  Castle Northwich, anciently called “Castleton,” is a place of considerable antiquity, and obtained its name from a fortress, once existing here near the point of the junction of the rivers Dane and Weaver, where the latter river was crossed by the Watling Street, but it probably became ruinous before the time of Richard I; no vestige of the building now remains, but its site is indicated by two mounds rising in a triangular field on the right side of the steep part of the Chester Road; the higher of them is almost circular, and about 90 feet in diameter.

 

LEFTWICH township was formed by Local Government Board Order in September, 1894, from that portion of the old township outside the Northwich Urban area.  The reputed manor of Leftwich, now simply a portion of the barony of Shipbrook, was anciently held by the Vernon family; afterwards by the marriage of Sir Richard de Wilburgham, Lord of Wymincham, with Margery, daughter and co-heiress of Warin Vernon, it came into the possession of the Wilbrahams, and one of the two daughters and co-heiresses of this Sir Richard in turn carried it by marriage to Robert de Winnington, whose son Richard assumed the local name and resided here, and his posterity in succession for many generations.  The site of Leftwich Hall is now occupied by a farmhouse.  Lieut.-Col. Frederick Charles France-Hayhurst J.P., of Bostock Hall, who is Lord of the reputed manor, Sir Joseph Verdin bart., Messrs. Cartner-Kelmer Limited and Mrs S.A. Dobell are the chief proprietors of this township.  The area is 705 acres of land and 16 of water; rateable value, £4,159; the population in 1911 was 346.

 

WINNINGTON township was formed by Local Government Board Order in September, 1894, and comprises that portion of the old township outside Northwich and the ancient township of Wallerscote, owned by Lord Barrymore.

            Winnington Bridge, over the Weaver, was the scene, during the Civil War, of a sharp conflict between the Parliamentary troops, under Major-Gen. John Lambert, and the Royal forces commanded by Sir George Booth, in which the latter was defeated.

            Winnington Park is the property of Messrs. Brunner, Mond & Co. Limited, who have erected large chemical works here, employing nearly 4,000 workmen.  In the township are several white salt works.

Winnington Park Recreation Club, situated close to the Brunner-Mond Works, was the gift of Sir John T. Brunner bart. and the late Dr. Ludwig Mond F.R.S.; in the centre of the grounds is a large pavilion erected in 1904, and containing library, reading room, billiard room with four tables, also a large concert hall.  Workmen’s Baths, for the employees of the company, were erected in 1909.  The Park surrounding comprises a splendid cricket pitch, football field, tennis and bowling greens and grand stands.

            The manor, previous to the reign of Henry VIII, was held by a family who assumed the local name, in the latter part of which reign, by the marriage of Elizabeth, heiress of Richard de Wynington, to Sir Piers Warburton kt., it passed to the Warburton family and subsequently in like manner by the marriage of Anne Susannah, daughter and heiress of George Hugh Warburton esq. to Richard Pennant esq. created in 1783 baron Penrhyn of the Kingdom of Ireland, it was transferred to that family; on the death of this peer in 1808, the title became extinct, and the estate was purchased by Lord Stanley of Alderley, whose descendants sold it to Messrs. Brunner, Mond and Co. Limited and others.  The area is 561 acres of land and 18 of water; rateable value, £29,919; the population in 1911 was 1,503.

 

WALLERSCOAT (Wallerscote) was, by Order in Council in 1892, transferred to Winnington.

 

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