Hamster Species
There are many hamster species, but only a few are commonly kept as pets. Those include Syrian hamsters and Dwarf hamsters. The Syrian hamster is 6-7 inches long. The Dwarf hamster is 4-5 inches long. Syrian hamsters are solitary and must live alone while Dwarf hamsters are social and can usually live peacefully in same sex or mixed sex pairs.
The Syrian hamster is native to the country of Syria. They have many nicknames such as “Teddy Bear” (the long haired ones) and European Black Bear (the black ones). All of these are the identical species and only differ by color, coat, or pattern. If you are buying a syrian, make sure you buy one cage per Syrian. Regardless of what anyone tells you, all syrians must live alone after the age of 8 weeks.
There are four commonly kept Dwarf hamsters. The different species typically live in Central Asia, Russia, Mongolia, China, and neighboring regions.
The most common and popular Dwarf Hamster in California is the Campbells Dwarf hamster. They come in a large variety of colors including black, albino, blue, and chocolate. They are often also called the Russian Dwarf hamster.
One might also see the Winter White Dwarf hamster in pet stores in California (and they are often seen at shows). These hamsters have a summer and a winter coat. The summer coat is fairly dark with various shades of black and brown. The winter coat is mostly white. As the hours of sunlight decrease, the hamster lightens into its winter coat as a camouflage in the snow. When the hours of sunlight again increase, they change back into their summer coat.
The Roborovski Dwarf hamster is not commonly found. It is the smallest of the Dwarf hamsters and does not typically make a good pet due to its small size and speed. They are very active and difficult to handle.
The fourth type of Dwarf hamster commonly kept in the US is illegal in California. Thus, you will not see them at shows or in the pet stores. The Chinese typically come in a sandy brown color and are easily distinguished by their longer tail (longer than a typical hamster but shorter than a mouse).
Buying a Pet Hamster
It is best to buy your hamster from a show or hobby breeder. These breeders typically take more care in arranging complimentary pairs and use higher quality supplies for their animals. Usually the health and temperament are better, too, as well as the hamster is less stressed than in the pet store environment.
If you must buy from a pet store, your first impression when walking in the store is very important. Make sure it is clean and tidy. Ask to handle the hamsters. Make sure the clerk is comfortable putting his hand in the cage to ensure well socialized animals. One of the key indicators of health is the eyes. Check to see that the eyes are clear and alert. Check the animal for wounds. If the clerk knows how to sex hamsters, ensure that all animals in the cage are of the same sex. And for Syrians, always check as many syrians as you can for wet tail. The key symptom is diarrhea, and if any hamster in any cage has it, leave the store immediately and go to another store. Always feel free to walk out of a store if you have any concerns. It is better to be safe than purchase a sick or mean hamster.
Hamster Care
1. Cage. Make sure the cage is large enough for the adult size of your species. Wheels are often too small for adult Syrians and must be replaced. Each kind of cage has its advantages and disadvantages, so choose the one which best meets your needs. Generally the larger the better.
Make sure to include a wheel in the cage. There must also be a constant source of fresh water. Always choose a gravity fed water bottle over a water bowl for cleanliness and sanitation reasons. A food dish is nice although many hamsters will store the food elsewhere in their cage. A house is also appreciated by the hamster. Make sure the house and all other toys can be easily cleaned and sanitized and the openings are sufficiently large for your hamster when full grown.
2. Supplies. Avoid cedar beddings. Cedar has oils which can harm your hamster’s respiratory system. Concerns have been raised about both pine and aspen for hamsters. Carefresh seems to be safe for hamsters although there are many other good beddings on the market also.
Choose a quality hamster mix or preferably a rodent lab block (also sold as rodent chow or rodent diet). The lab blocks are scientifically prepared as a balanced diet for rodents and come in a pelleted form. Hamsters do not typically overeat. They will store excess food in a corner and save it for later. Nevertheless, they can get fat if feed an improper diet. Avoid the store bought treats (not nutritious and overly expensive) and rely on small portions fruits and vegetables. Your hamster’s health will be better, and he will be perfectly happy with fruit or veggies as his treat. Avoid citrus fruits, lettuce, and other strong items like garlic or onions. Target items such as apples, broccoli, strawberries, and zucchini. Introduce your hamster gradually to fruits and vegetables to avoid diarrhea.
3. Cleaning. Cages should be thoroughly cleaned once a week unless there are babies. Fresh fruits and vegetables should be removed 24 hours after feeding if not consumed to avoid spoilage when placed in the food stash. At each cleaning, you should thoroughly check your hamster’s health. If there is anything suspicious, seek veterinary assistance.
Hamsters do not need baths and can get sick from the chill. They will clean and groom themselves regularly. Many hamsters appreciate a dust bath, though, from time to time. A sanitary and fine dust such as chinchilla dust is good for this purpose and can be put in a small bowl for them to roll in.
4. Taming. Many hamsters need taming (see taming brochure). If bred well, though, the taming process does not take long and your hamster will remain tame with consistent handling. With most hamsters, the taming process is a matter of talking to your hamster in a soothing voice and using slow and gentle movements. Make sure you always handle your hamster close to the ground (preferably sitting on the carpet) during the taming process to avoid falls. Even after the hamster is tamed, he should be handled while you are sitting down and not carried around or placed on a shoulder while walking around.
Remember that a hamster will bite if startled or frightened and can easily draw blood. Do not grab a hamster when it is asleep. Make sure he is awake and ready to be handled. And don’t handle the hamster when around large groups of people or loud noises. They have a very good sense of hearing and can be adversely impacted.
Along the same lines, hamsters do not have good eyesight. They can easily fall from tables or couches possibly injuring themselves. Make sure to keep them secure. Hamsters should never run around loose on the floor since they can easily get lost or stepped on. Try using a hamster ball instead, but make sure the hamster is supervised and returned to his cage every 20-30 minutes for a break.
5. Health. Hamsters are generally healthy animals. They can and do, however, get sick. As soon as you bring home your hamster, call the veterinarians in your area to locate a good small animal vet (often called an exotics vet). This will help you in case of an emergency.
Once you notice that your hamster is ill, do not delay getting him into the vet. Hamster illnesses progress rapidly, and quick action on your part is essential.
