AIRFIX 1:72 WESTLAND LYNX (NAVY)

Reviewer: Myself  (braithy@bigpond.com)

Also see my 1:72 review on the Army Lynx version by Airfix.
At the end of the review is some additional Navy Lynx info supplied by Arend Van Diggele

This Anglo-French designed helicopter carries the company cooperation of Aerospatiale-Westland, but in many ways is more viewed as a Westland chopper than the former.  This is part to the design number WG.13 from which the Lynx was developed.   It is a very capable and fast helicopter and was produced in two major versions being the general purpose and utility variant for the Army and a more specialised version for the Navy. Ironically, the main helicopter it replaces in both versions is the Scout/Wasp family which has similarly two offsprings specialised for the respective services.  As the Navy Lynx it is generally given the designation of HAS.1 and performs a multi-purpose role that includes all-weather anti-shipping and anti-submarine offensive attack.  The main physical differences of the Naval Lynx compared to the Army Lynx is a broader nose, torpedo armament and wheels instead of landing skids. Incidentally, the wheels are angle outward at 27 degrees to help prevent rolling around in particular vicious sea-weather. It is not as fast or as agile as it's Army version counterpart but is nontheless manoeuvreable and fast in it's Navy role.

Airfix have released two kits of the Lynx, notably this Navy version and the other Army version.  On opening the box you could be forgiven in thinking that the one kit can build both versions - wheels, landing skids, etc - but on further scrutiny you will find that the kit will only complete the version for which it is marketed.   Details are reasonably well done with raised panel lines and about 90 parts in the kit - although not all will be used for this version - and yet you use triple numbered parts in the Navy version.  Some of these are missing from the Army Lynx kit further indicating remolded sprues for the specific versions.  I have made both representations from Airfix, and found that both kits were different.  The Army version is molded in dark green styrene while this Naval version is molded in light blue and white plastic.  Instruction sheet for both kits are the same, except the assembly steps have been sketched specifically to make the version of the kit being replicated, in this case the Navy Lynx, and the brief paragraph on the history of the chopper is also adjusted to the respective version.

You commence construction on the engine and main chopper blades.   This is reasonably easy to get assembled and its well worth painting the parts first before you put them on the chopper later.  Interior detail isn't too bad - in the cockpit you are supplied with two seats to put on rails and affix to the base, plus pilot figures, foot pedals, control sticks (where's the collective?) and a well detailed instrument panel complete with dashboard, centreline panel and raised knobs.  In the cabin you are given three bench-seats to fit it out as a troop transport.

Once the cockpit/cabin unit has been assembled you attached it against a fuselage halve, place in the front feet-windows, a rear cabin wall and roof that will eventually accept the main rotor assembly.  This was a bit of a tight fit with the alignment grooves helping what would otherwise be a difficult task.  Then you attach both fuselage halves which go together fairly easily but will need a peg or two to hold it together in the right places while drying.  You then construct the roof-engine exhausts and cowlings and providing you work out the right nazelle to attach them to you should find it fairly straightforward.  In part 10 of the instructions it shows you how to assemble both exhausts, then in Part 11 it simply shows you where to place them, it doesn't tell you which exact sub-assembly goes to the port side or starboard side, and the diagram isn't any help.  They are slightly different shaped depending which way you place them so consult some good reference material to ensure they extend outward at the right angle.  Up to this point, both kits are exactly the same.

You then place on the main side doors but they are sketched for the Army version.  Technically they are the same in the Navy kit but contain three panel windows instead of one, as pointed out in the instructions.  Nevertheless the same assembly pattern applies and because you have to attach both the upper and lower railing in this step, it needs quite a bit of care to get the right distance apart so that the door will fit snuggly in.  I overcame this by attaching the lower railing first, letting it dry and then fiddling with the upper railing and getting the door to fit on the rails correctly. If you do this right it will enable you to open and close the doors on the finished product and is worth the effort.  You can then zoom it across the sky with doors shut, or land it and slide open the doors and play troop alightment  :)

Closing the cockpit with windscreen, canopy etc is incorrect in the instructions, this is where the Army version and navy version assembly is different.   The navy version comes in a one-piece canopy that is much easier to fit than the Army counterpart (that has four pieces) but it still has a bit of a problem as it is slightly smaller than the allocated space.  Extra work needs to be called upon here, and I would suggest adding a small amount of putty to include underneath the windscreen unit so it sits itself up and aligns correctly with the fuselage roof.  The windscreen, etc is a bit cloudy in appearance but is clear enough to see the interior detail so it's worth spicing it up a bit beforehand.

The nose cone was easier to fit than it's Army kit cousin but still needed coaxing and sanding to fit properly.  The real concern though is that the nose is not the correct shape.  At first glance it looks like they have just included the Army version's nose in this kit but it is actually a bit more slender and carries inscribed lines to indicate it is a separately mold nose specific for the Navy version.   Whatever the case it is still wrong - the true Navy version has a nose that is much more stubbier than this slender reproduction.  It needs to be replaced.

The kit also comes with two Mk.46 torpedos to attach to the sides of the fuselage - nicely done. Except they are sort of "underslung" when attached to a pylon underneath the doors, whereas on photos of the real thing they are "overslung". I hope that makes sense, you will see what I mean if you compare the sketches to the photos.  The main wheels are attached to a pod that extends out of the fuselage behind the main door.  Since I only have side reference photos of the Navy Lynx, it's hard to say whether they are the right size, they just look a little big for my liking.

Two examples are produced by the kit. A HAS.3 Royal Navy version of HMS Exeter and a HAS.2 French Navy version of Flotille 31F in the Lebanon Theatre.   Colour call outs are in Airfix numbers and what appear to also be Humbrol enamenl numbers (by virtue of cross referencing both numbers) but this is a little odd because it basically says to finish the Royal Navy version in Dark Grey and the French version in Light Olive drab.  A more Ocean Grey colour seems to be a better option in my view and this is how I finished my RN depiction.  I would suggest having a look at some proper reference sources to ensure you get this part right.

Overall the finished product is a Navy Lynx - it looks like one for sure.   But it does have its accuracy problems as pointed out above and other than perhaps the nose it still should be okay for a Navy Lynx replication, also given that I think there is only Revell which offers another slightly imperfect choice.  The kit was relatively easy to build, much easier than the Army version for some reason (and I actually built this Navy one first!!) which seems to indicate that they are different engineering molds although both kits have parts from the other.  I'd still recommend it to build yourself a good example of the Lynx and should suit all skills except the very novice.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION supplied by: Arend Van Diggele (Ex-Dutch Navy, worked on Navy Lynx)

Being an ex-navy man my main interest was drawn by the review of the Navy Lynx you built. (I used to work on the Navy lynx in the Dutch Navy).

The NATO designation for the Naval variants are UH-14A, SH-14B and SH-14C.
The A-model: Utility helo mainly used for troop transport (marines), SAR. This type was mainly used from land.
The B-model: Anti-sub helo equipped with sonar. The sonar is dipped from a hole in the bottom just forward of the "harpoon".
The C-model: Anti-sub helo equipped with a MAD "dart" attached to the left spondon just in front of the main gear strut.
Both B and C models were used from ships. The C model was only used in Holland as far as I know.
Didn't work though<G>.
Today all models are converted to SH-14D as a mid-life modernisation and all are equipped with sonar only. Don't know the ins and outs of this type since I left the Navy 12 years ago.

In the text you mention the toe-out of the main wheels. This is done to allow the helo (after the nose wheel is turned sideways) to turn through full 360 degrees on the deck of a ship to allow pointing in the wind for take-off. To ancker itself to the ship a harpoon is used. This is a hydraulic device beneath the helo in the dead center location. On the deck there is a grid where this harpoon grabs in and puls the helo down. In this way it will not drop off during heavy seas <G>. On land the wheels in this position act as a brake in the case of a single engine landing (done with forward speed to minimize the torque on the remaining engine). There are no brakes on the Lynx.

Speed difference between the Army and Navy version. The Navy one can fly as fast as the Army one, except it isn't allowed to do so because the tail of the Navy variant is foldable and structural not as strong as the Army variant.  The cabin doors of all Lynx's are now with one window. Only the very early one's had the tripple window configuration. (UK version only?).

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