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Towing Info
Talking about safe towing weights of vans seems to be
a somewhat controversial subject, so, I've put this info up to help
newcomers who, like me, may be a little confused when they first
start.
This information is intended as a guide only
Caravan/Towing vehicle weight ratio
This ratio makes a big difference to the stability and
handling of the over all outfit. Ideally you should keep the laden
weight of the caravan as low as practically possible I.e. don't take
stuff you don't use. For people new to Caravanning and towing the
actual laden weight of the van should not exceed 85% of the Curbside
weight of the car! As the weight of the van approaches that of the car
then the more careful and experienced the driver needs to be due to it
being a lot harder to control. If the weight of the van becomes more
than the car then it is quite easy to loose control, the tail wags the
dog if you like, as the van now has more weight and control. To
calculate the ratio we must use the following,
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Where the actual laden weight of the van is
when its fully loaded with all your equipment. The curb weight
of the car should be in the hand book. Once you have this info then
you have the ratio.
The most important thing to remember is not to exceed the maximum
gross weight of the van and the towing vehicle's loading and towing
limits. The law requires that caravans and their towing vehicles and
the loads they carry must be in such a condition that no danger or
nuisance is caused.
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Establishing the actual laden weight of the van
The basic items for two people to go away in the van will normally
weigh a minimum of 100kg in total and will include
- Food
- Crockery
- Cutlery
- Cooking utensils
- Clothing
- Bedding
- Gas bottles
- Water carrier
The weight of other additional items such as battery, awning,
portable toilet, spare wheel, must be added to the total.
For every other person in the van a further 25kg should be allowed in
the total for basic items. Now add the total to the ex works weight
and you have the actual laden weight of the van. If all this seem a
bit too much like hard work, then contact the area Trading Standards
Department (weights and measures). This can be found in the phone book
under
- County Council;
- Metropolitan Council;
- London Borough Council;
Depending where you are in the county.
Who will be able to tell you your nearest weighbridge. Load the van
up and go and weigh it!
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Wiring Info
The following information is
intended as a guide only. If in any doubt please consult a suitably
qualified person.
Terminal |
Colour |
12N |
12S |
1 |
Yellow |
LH Indicator |
Reversing light |
2 |
Blue |
Rear fog lamp |
Battery Charging |
3 |
White |
Common return |
Common return |
4 |
Green |
RH Indicator |
Power supply |
5 |
Brown |
RH Side / Tail |
Sensing device |
6 |
Red |
Stop Lamp |
Refrigerator |
7 |
Black |
LH Side / Tail |
Spare |
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Wiring Problems
The only problems I have encountered so far have been loose and
corroded connections. The Loose connections are easily diagnosed as
functions not working at all or working intermittently. These are
easily rectified by checking all the connections in question. If the
problem still persists after this then you could have a broken wire
which will need either repairing or replacing altogether. To find this
you will need some sort of continuity tester (meter or buzzer of some
kind). Follow the table above and ring out the connections until you
find the broken one.
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The corroded connections can cause earthing
faults that give weird and wonderful symptoms from lights not working,
too brake lights flashing with the indictors . These can be cured by
cleaning up all the connections. If this still happens after they are
all clean then maybe its time to seek help. |
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The 12s wiring on Car
Click for full size image
Thanks to Tony for the Image
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Changes to 12s Wiring
The changes to the 12s wiring came into affect after the 1st of
September 1998 so all 1999 models will have these changes
incorporated.
- a feed to operate the caravan's reversing lights (if fitted) via
Pin 1
- a 12-volt supply from the car battery via Pin 4 all the time
your car is hitched up.
- feed via Pin 6 to operate a fridge while the engine is running.
- a feed to charge the caravan's battery, which is only activated
when the engine is running. This was previously via Pin 2 but
charging will now operate via Pin 4.
- an earth connection. This was previously via Pin 3 alone but is
now to be accompanied by another earth wire via Pin 7, exclusively
for the fridge.
In recent caravan's, changes to the 12S wiring have necessitated
altering the internal wiring system so that it:
- can draw a 12-volt supply from the tow car's battery via Pin 4
when the tow car engine is switched
off.
- is able to take a 12-volt supply from Pin 4 and direct it
exclusively and automatically to charge the
caravan battery when the tow car engine is running.
- ensures that when the engine is running, no internal 12v
appliances can be operated other than the refrigerator.
Why Has It Changed?
Safety!
ABS brakes, engine management systems etc. can all be upset by
magnetic fields and it's considered necessary to reduce the number of
cables added to a vehicle when preparing it for towing.
The new 12S wiring system does away with one live cable: the one
previously connected to Pin 2 for battery charging.
In addition, a further precautionary alteration isolates interior
lights and appliances (in motor caravans and trailer caravans) when
the engine is running.
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General Hints & Tips
- During the winter its a good idea to empty and take the canvas
off your folding camper. This cuts down the chance of damp and
mildew getting to it. Its a fairly simple and quick job, just
remember how it all comes to bits (draw diagrams if it helps) as
it may be a few months before you put it back together again.
- When putting the canvas back on the unit make sure the poles are
put on the correct way round. If you have an awning then the frame
may have holes in to insert the awning poles. On the pennine these
do not go all the way through the frame, meaning it has to be the
correct way round. We got it wrong, never gave it a thought until
erecting the awning on site. We then realised the holes were on
the inside which resulted in us having to strip it down on site
and reassemble the right way
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