This is how Civil War rope tension drums were assembled.

Top Hoop - The hoops were often painted red or dark red and usually had 10 cantered holes for the ropes.The D-Ring is for hooking the drum sling onto the drum.

Batter Head - The drum heads were made of calf skin, and thus are very sensitive to moisture and humidity.

Muffler - This strip of cloth prevents a ringing sound when playing. They were not actually used in the war, but most reenactors have them.

Shell - The shell of the drum was usually stained a maple color, like this one, or a dark brown. Where the two ends of the shell overlap, a tackwork pattern was done to help secure the joint; the one shown is the King's Landing Pattern. Often in the center of the design was a vent hole. Civil War drums were commonly 12 or 14 inches deep with a 16 inch diameter.

Bottom Head - Like the batter head, this was also calf skin.

Snares - These are made of cat gut, and are tightened by the snare strainer at the one end. The strainer attaches to the shell just under the tackwork pattern. The other ends of the snares are secured by a piece of leather.

Bottom Hoop - This is the same as the top hoop. Drums made in the early war sometimes used hooks instead of holes for attaching the rope; holes were better because the loose hooks slid around on the hoops.

Ropes and Ears - The rope used can be either brown or off-white. These are strung through the hoops in a zig-zag fashion. The ears are made of leather and can be brown, black, or natural color.

Drag Rope - This is the excess rope in a chain knot. You can sling the drag rope over your shoulder for carrying the drum.

The finished drum.

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