Salt Spring Vineyards

updated August, 2006

Going into their fourth year of operations, owners Jan and Bill Harkley and winemaker Paul Troop and Co. are carving their own niche in the wonderful world of BC wines.  Their “cool-climate” table wines are crisp, lean and fabulously food friendly.  And the dessert wines are “…to die for” In the not so terribly surprising absence of their hugely successful Blackberry Port – which will be released again in November from the winery (though you may still find an occasional bottle in a private Beer & Wine store) it is almost time for this year’s eagerly awaited “Apple Pie” dessert wine.

Bill and Jan Harkley

Made from blocks of frozen apple juice in a process that concentrates the intense apple character of the wine Salt Spring Apple Pie (+262675) $19.90/375ml is tweaked with a sprinkling of cinnamon.  For complete decadence, pour this over French Vanilla Ice Cream and sip by the spoonful! Also being released on the August long weekend is the Salt Spring Pinot Noir 2005 (+616359) $21.90.  Bright cherry and subtle strawberry flavours make this textbook “Island” Pinot Noir an ideal candidate for serving with salmon and a wide range of tomato-sauced Italian cuisine. A recent release – and a new product for the winery – is the irreverent and marvellously spiritually politically incorrect sparkling Karma  (+414334) $28.90.    Made from a similar mix of grapes as most Champagnes, this is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay and very much in the traditional mode, finessed by some light and woodsy apple and lingering strawberry notes.. A quirky departure from their usual colourful style, the “Karma” label is nevertheless anything but traditional, littered with VW Vans, cows, pears, eagles, wedges of cheese, hearts, vintage 50s cars, bicycles, crabs, sailboats, and peace signs all arranged in a Karmic Star!

Current Salt Spring Vineyards releases are available at some private Beer & Wine stores up and down Vancouver Island (Riptide and Willows in River City; Coast Westerly in Courtney; Leeward in Comox) and in the Lower Mainland.  If you can’t get to the winery, and can’t find their wines where you live, they’ll be happy to ship wine directly to you for a small surcharge. Quite the crowd-pleaser Salt Spring Blanc de Noir 2005 (+43281) $17.90 is a prettily pink wine with a touch of residual strawberry sweetness made from Salt Spring grown Pinot Noir – unlike many “Island” wines made from Okanagan grapes!  Completely and udderly charming with soft white cheeses – particularly Salt Spring Island’s own David Wood’s goat cheeses. Salt Spring Chardonnay 2004 (+43182) $18.90 is still available in limited quantities.  Lean and clean, there are undertones of lemon meringue pie in this “Island” Chardonnay.  Think about this wine next time you’re having crab.  Don’t be afraid to cellar it for a couple of years for complexity. Rated 91 points on the California website www.pinotnoirs.com Salt Spring Pinot Noir Reserve 2004 (+43745) $31.90 is already complex - cherry-berry bright with a smoky touch of oak and a dash of pepper in the finish.  Like all fine Pinot Noir, it slips over the tongue with a sweet and silky touch. Your choice of cork or screwcap closure!

Salt Spring Pinot Gris 2005 (+41368) $18.90 is very much in the Italian “Pinot Grigio” style.  An unexpected twist of lime adds to the bright and refreshing character.  Lots of crisp “Island” acidity makes this a perfect pick for oysters as well as any other seafood. Look for Salt Spring Millotage (+263038) $23.90 to be released in September.  This unique red blend mixes, Leon Millot and Marechal Foch with a little Pinot Noir.  As unusual as it is elegant, built on dry but boisterously ripe black cherry and berry flavours, this spicy medium-bodied red is already developing a cult following.