View from Tingri

View from N. Base Camp

from Lamna-La Pass
Mt. Everest looms up at the end of the valley 11 miles (as the crow flyes) from base camp. Local Tibetans know the mountain as Chomolungma, "Mother Goddess of the Earth". Views of its North Face are even more stunning than from the Nepal side.
PlaceDistance
from BC
Elevation
m.ft.
Base Camp 0 5200 17,060
Camp I   5425 17,800
Camp II   6035 19,800
Advanced BC/
Camp III
14 mi. 6400 21,000
top of N. Col/
Camp IV
  7000 22,933
Camp 2     24,600
Camp V     25,300
Camp 3     25,600
Camp 4     26,200
Camp VI     26,800
Summit   8848 29,028
Note: The roman numeral camp numbers are the old system.

The route is initially a straightforward trail up moraine to the East Rongbuk Glacier to Advanced Base Camp, which leads to the fixed ropes.
From Advanced Base Camp it is a five to six hour climb via fixed ropes up the 2,000' North Col.
The North Col is a fairly large area where expeditions Camp and from where there are fantastic views of the whole of the North face of Everest, the West Rongbuk Glacier, Lho La, Pumori and Cho Oyu.

The descent from ABC takes around three hours.

The traditional camp numbers are listed. Some recent expiditions make Camp 1 at the North Col.

Maps: Mt. Everest Region Map | Relief map | Mallory's presumed route from Camp VI (Step 2 and 3)

See: Everest at NOVA (PBS): QTVR (360°) view from summit.

Himalayan Experience Climbs to North Col - 26 Days - $6,500,
Himalaya Inc. climb to summit - 60 days - $6,000

Climbs from Nepal (South Col route): ALPINE ASCENTS INTERNATIONAL

Fees:
Nepal for S. Col route- $70,000
Tibet/China for N Side: 5,500
Sources: ClimberInfo, mef.org.uk Everest Names Chomolungma (Tibetan), Jomolangma, Sagarmatha (Nepalese)
Qomolangma Feng (Chinese)

Background:
At altitudes of 25,000 feet and beyond, the effects of low atmospheric pressure upon the human body are so severe that really difficult mountaineering is impossible and the consequences even of a mild storm may be deadly.

In the Death Zone, above 8,000 m (26,000') your body can not metabolize food and starts eating itself.
The atmospheric pressure at the top of Everest is about a third of sea level.

The effects of low atmospheric pressure, low temperatues (-40° F) and high winds are so severe that really difficult mountaineering is impossible and the consequences even of a mild storm may be deadly.

History:
British climbers had expeditions to Everest in 1921, 1922 and 1924. On June 8, 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, both of the United Kingdom, made an attempt on the summit via the North route from which they never returned. Mallory's body was found in 1999 and there is speculation that he might of made it to the top and died on the way down.

In 1953 the first confirmed ascent (and of course, safe descent) of Everest was accomplished by by New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who went up the south side.

1996 was the deadliest year with 12 (some count 15) deaths.

As of June 2006 there were 12 deaths.

Deaths:
80% of deaths occur on the way down.

Yearly Averages
Decade Summits Deaths
60's 2 0.6
70's 8 3
80's 18 6
90's 88 6
2000's 150 4
In 2004 over 300 people summited.

See: Summits and Deaths by year

1996:
1996 was the worst year for deaths with 15.

A storm on May 10th claimed eight climbers' lives including experienced expedition leaders, Rob Hall and Scott Fischer.
Journalist Jon Krakauer, on assignment from Outside magazine, was also in Hall's party, and afterwards published the bestseller Into Thin Air which related his experience.

David Breashears, a high altitude climber and filmmaker, has stood on top of Everest three times. He made the IMAX film, Everest.

Links:
Expedition on Everest (2006) at the Discovery Channel
Everest Quest | Expedition '96 at pbs/NOVA
Scott Fischer's Deadly 1996 Everest Climb, full archives of story ...
Climbers guide to Everest
Everest at Peakware.com
The Ups and Downs of Everest - a season wrap-up (2006) on Alan Arnette's blog


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last updated 4 Sep 2006