Restoration of
Early Light's
Sailing Dinghy
Page 3


Next came the veneer laminations at the bow. At this point I had to make a cardboard pattern for cutting the veneer. Because of the compound curve at the bow this is not simply a straight flat piece of veneer. In actuality it kind of resembles a very gradual arch. This pattern was traced onto the veneer and then the veneer was cut using a razor knife. Once I had cut a sufficient number of veneer laminations (18 I believe) I began the laminating process using West System Epoxy. I found that 3 layers was all that I could work at one time once the initial lamination was installed. This will take several days to finish the veneer laminations. The laminated veneer at the bow will be cut in place using a fine tooth back saw for the mating joint between the veneer and the two 3/8" thick gunwhale laminations on either side of the boat.


Photo of the arched pattern used to
cut the veneer laminations for the bow.



Photo of the first veneer lamination



Photo showing the clamps required to
hold the first veneer lamination at the
bow as seen from inside the boat



Three more laminations were added. This is a slow process and three laminations seems to be the practical limit for one glue session. Trying to do any more is only inviting problems since the epoxy pot life begins to come into play. I am in hopes that with tomorrow's warmer weather forecast that I might be able to get two sets of 3 laminations done. That would bring the total to 10 laminations out of a total of 18.


Photo of a group of 3 veneer laminations
being laid up at one time. I am using just
about every clamp I own to cover handle
this task. It took a total of 16
clamps to handle this 24 inch section of
the bow.



Closeup photo of a group of the veneer laminations.
This was taken after 13 of the laminations were glued up.
Only 5 more laminations to go at this point.



The breasthook was the next piece to be cut and fitted. Like the quarter knees, I once again made a cardboard pattern and transferred it to the teak. This piece of 3/4" x 9" x 24" Burma teak was cut using my bandsaw and then beveled to fit the contour of the hull in the same trial and error method as the quarter knees. Once the final shaping of the breasthook was complete, five counterbored holes were drilled through the veneer laminations and the fiberglass hull to secure the breasthook. It was installed using the West System Epoxy as well as five flathead #8 x 2.5" stainless steel wood screws using the above mentioned counterbored holes. These holes were then plugged with teak bungs.

Breasthook shaped and installed but awaiting sanding.
You can see that the teak veneer still has to be cut
square so the gunwhale laminations can be fitted.



Next the veneer laminations were squared off and the first gunwhale lamination on the port side was glued up.

At the bow, I drew the gunwhale lamination
in using a long wood screw that goes into the
breasthook and used a large fender washer to
distribute the load to avoid cracking. Once
the epoxy has cured, I will remove the fender
washer and countersink the wood screw prior
to adding the next lamination.



At the stern, I drew the gunwhale
lamination in by leaving the
lamination overly long and using
a spanish windlass to the other
side of the dinghy. Once the
epoxy has cured, I will remove
the spanish windlass and the
next lamination can be clamped
to the first one. Once all of the
laminations are complete I will
cut off the excess and finish
shaping the corners at the transom.




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