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FIGS, FIGS AND MORE FIGS BY ANNABEL COHEN
It's fig season -- time to sprint to the greengrocer and snap up these small, soft-skinned, pear-shaped fruits. We're talking about fresh figs, of course. Most Australia are far more familiar with figs in the form of gooey, chewy cookie fillings, or the brown, sticky-sweet dried figs you see packed tightly in boxes or laced together with twine. Salad with figs, watermelon, grapes and prickly pears. (Free Press photo by Chris and Marika)
But fresh and dried figs are as different as grapes and raisins. Cut open, fresh figs look positively exotic -- juicy crimson or yellow flesh packed with minuscule edible seeds.
When the fruit is fresh, the seeds are almost indistinct in texture and flavor from the flesh. When figs are dried, the skin thickens and the seeds become grainy and almost crunchy. There's really nothing exotic about figs. They've been around practically forever and are one of the oldest fruits mentioned in literature. Cleopatra hid the poisonous asp she used to end her life in a basket of fresh figs. The Bible says Adam and Eve sewed fig leaves together to cover their bodies after the apple incident in Eden. Other Old and New Testament references to this delicacy abound.
If you've never eaten a fresh fig, you're not alone. A lickety-split season -- late June through mid-August and sporadically through the fall -- plus difficulty in transporting figs made this delicate, highly perishable fruit hard to find in our neck of the woods. Improved shipping techniques, however, and a changing ethnic climate are transforming fresh figs into a sought-after commodity. Mediterranean heritage
Figs are native to Asia Minor and specifically to Turkey and the tiny Mediterranean island of Malta. The dark-skinned Smyrna fig was introduced into Mexico by the Spanish in the mid-16th Century. Franciscan monks brought figs to San Diego area missions in the late 1700s. The crop spread to various missions along California's coast and produced the famous dark-purple Mission or black Mission fig. Most figs consumed in the United States still come from California. There are hundreds of fig varieties spread all over the world, especially in countried with warm weather. Buying and serving figs Figs don't ripen once picked, so it's important that they be at their peak when harvested. Depending on availability, figs can sell for as much as $1 a fruit. In season, the price should drop considerably.
All depends on the harvest, which this summer is expected to be down because of weather problems in California, local distributors say. The fruits are extremely fragile, and the skin bruises and tears easily. Choose figs when they're plump and soft to the touch. Eat them within a day or two of purchase. Since the fruit is shipped ripe, it's common, and acceptable, for the base of the fig to tear slightly or become moist and skin around the stem to be slightly shriveled. Fresh figs are almost always best served simply. Like kiwi, their most interesting and stunning feature is how they look when cut. Figs are seldom chopped or sliced. It's the beauty of the halved or quartered fig that's most appealing. And while some recipes insist figs be peeled, most don't require it because the skin is quite thin. Europeans serve fresh figs at room temperature or warm, never chilled. Traditional accompaniments include cheese, nuts or smoked meats as a first course. When eaten as part of a dessert, a natural partner is cream, whipped, sweetened and sometimes spiked with a fruity liqueur. You'll find recipes for fresh figs mostly in Mediterranean cookbooks. Since their mild flavor is compatible with so many foods, recipes run the gamut from figs served alone with a fresh custard to figs served with spicy lamb or chicken. Any way you eat them, you'll be participating in a food custom of biblical proportions. |