Sturgis | ||||||||||||
And then some! | ||||||||||||
GooGooGaChoo style | ||||||||||||
By the Walrus | ||||||||||||
Characters: OneEye Mongo MadDog aka BillyBob Trick Squirrel aka Rocky Moose aka Bullwinkle And I am the Walrus - googoogachoo Prelude: Back in January, when OneEye asked me if I might be interested in renting a house for Sturgis, I wasn't even sure I could get away, but I like this guy and I had a feeling an adventure was in the offing, so I said yes. OneEye has been going to Sturgis for over 20 yrs., but none of his experiences gave him the tools to accurately describe what I would be getting into. I didn?t know this then, but I learned it clearly, as we travelled down the road. As the time approached, we learned that Mongo would like to join our merry band and OneEye determined that he could come, but no guarantee of a bed. We already had OneEye's brother Trick and a couple of other guys from Michigan. Didn't matter, we could find a reasonable solution to Mongo's sleeping arrangement. We all met and discussed the trip and picked OneEye's experiences to make sure we packed all we might need. Only a week away, excitement and anticipation were really beginning to build. The weekend prior to leaving, I kept reminding myself of what I was about to do and could hardly stay contained. I have done several solo motorcycle trips and, of course, Nova Scotia with the club, but this was the dream. I have packed everything at least twice and will do so, one more time. Considering we don't leave until Wed., all I can think is, let's go now. I can only think of our trip; will be useless in the office. We do agree to leave mid-day, so that's a help. Tues., August 1, 2000 Wow!! Tomorrow we go. Spoke on the phone a couple of times this evening with OneEye; we are so ready to leave. I look everything over one more time and decide to load it all on the bike 1st. thing in the morning. Sleep tonight? I don't think so. Wed., August 2, 2000 Loaded the bike in the morning and it looks good and tight. Take it for a ride and make sure everything is balanced. Off to the office, some final preparation before I leave for nearly 21 days. So cool!!!!!! I am sitting in OneEye's driveway, both our bikes ready and pointed to the street. Here comes Mongo, packed to the hilt. I don't know how he got everything on his bike and all without saddlebags. Amazing. Finally, on the road, but not quite. We get all of 2 miles down the road and OneEye pulls over. Thinks he left his wallet on the computer table. We turn around and wait in town, while he returns to his house. Now we hit the road! Once we get on the road, at least there is no rain. The skies have threatened, but we're ok. Down Rt. 13, hmmm, OneEye appears to know a shortcut to Rt. 2 that ultimately only cost us an additional hour, trying to figure out where he went wrong. And this guy plans to get us to Sturgis, S.D. On to Rt. 190 to the Mass Pike, it's very cloudy, but the Berkshires still look great. We meet MadDog in Lee, Ma., just beyond the toll booth at the N.Y. state line. We hang and talk a bit, before heading off to N.Y., hit with occasional showers. We plan to cross the NY Thruway to Buffalo. We pull into Buffalo near midnight. We've been watching quite a spectacular light show all night with the lightning in the distance. It is closing fast and is beginning to rain harder so we pull in to a motel. There we hang outside laughing, drinking until two in the morning. We also learn that our plan to enter Canada is not so prudent. See if you can understand our dilemma: MadDog = convicted felon w/automatic weapons @ border crossing = big problem!! Well, we can always head south for awhile, before heading West. Thurs., August 3, 2000 The day has an ominous look about it. Our resident weatherman, Mongo, says, "no problem." We learn that his forecasts of "no problem" will almost always mean nasty downpours mixed with dangerous lightning. Breakfast at Cracker Barrel across from the motel breaks us into laughter immediately. MadDog grabs a microphone and announces to the entire restaurant to "don't worry, be happy", etc. During breakfast, MadDog tells the "hostage" story. We are laughing so hard that I nearly choke on my food. Mongo had to leave the room, he was laughing so uncontrollably. I think OneEye is laughing himself silly. The rest of the patrons are either laughing or looking at us with a combination of wonder and disgust. By the way, we have severe thunderstorms underway outside. We leave in pouring rains and can't see after going only 50yds. This will be some day. OneEye forgets to remove his lock and dumps his bike, injuring his wrist and groin. Problem was, we had already moved up the road and didn't know he was down. He chose to lift the bike himself. Injured wrist trying to hold it up and strained muscles attempting to pick it up. Anyway, stubborness does work!! Fairly uneventful ride through Pennsylvania into Ohio. On the way from Cleveland to Toledo, we play some games with each other doing an average of 100mph, but slow down to get gas. Eventually, we reach Michigan and attempt to skirt Detroit in order to make it to Clarkston, Mi., where OneEye's brother Trick lives. We arrive approx. 8:30pm and quickly fill the garage with our bikes. The other two guys will arrive in the morning. In the meantime, MadDog determines he must replace his rear tire, which has no real tread. MadDog rips his bike down (a hammer being the most operative tool) and removes the rear wheel. He plans to go off to an HD dealership in the area and have a new tire mounted, come back and put his bike together. Looking at this sight, you would have imagined a few days in Clarkston, but the Dog is gonna get it done. Trick's family is so nice and make us all feel at home. The kids displace themselves so we have a comfortable place to sleep. I room with Mongo. During the night, he gets up to go to the bathroom and MadDog tries to sneak in and hide in Mongo's bed to surprise him, but he gets caught. This proves to be the beginning of hijinks that will continue every day!!! OneEye and Trick have a great system planned, utilizing CB's; OneEye at the front, Trick to the rear, always in communication and able to keep us altogether, not to mention out of trouble. Fri., August 4, 2000 Wake to sunshine, a slow start, since MadDog still has to fix his tire. Mongo goes fishing, with no luck. OneEye, Mongo and I (am the Walrus, googoogachoo) go off to breakfast at this great little restaurant. OneEye has a very interesting way of entering the parking area, deciding to ride up the sidewalk, after we missed the entrance. Of course, we follow, laugh and park. Remember this is OneEye, so I don't know if he missed the entrance or if he just can't see it!! Moose and Squirrel arrive when we return from breakfast and we inform them of the Dog's tire repair. They haven't earned their names yet, so they are still Bruce and Eric. Ready to go. We all marvel at Dog getting his bike finished, but at the same time we are all pacing a bit, as we want to get going. We leave at 1:00pm and head north on Rt. 75 toward the UP (Upper Penisnsula.) The riding is getting more interesting, first with farms and pastures giving way to beautiful woods and lakes. Right now, I am reminded of the best of N.E. riding. We stop to take a short hike up to an outlook and can see Lake Huron in the distance. We ride across the Mackinaw Bridge, longest suspension bridge in the world, or U.S. Anyway, I wish I could stop, for I would use a whole roll of film right here. Breathtaking views from the bridge. I have read of the U.P. and it really is astonishingly beautiful. Stunning views of Lake Huron and the coastline. Down Rt. 2, we stop and take over a very small restaurant. In minutes, everyone, all the patrons, the owners, the help and us are laughing hysterically. The Dog is entertaining again. We are all getting into the act and nobody can stop laughing without exiting the restaurant. Poor Mongo, can't even eat his meal; he is pleading for mercy from MadDog so he can eat. Back on the road, we continue along the lakeshore until we reach a little cove. There is someone playing bagpipes across the cove on the opposite shore. Creates quite an interesting touch to a pretty evening. Each of us makes a call to someone back home before we continue. MadDog calls out to the piper to "play DannyBoy" and begins singing. What ensues breaks down into general laughter and constant theme of all of our stops. We ride on through beautiful Hiawatha National Forest towards Escanaba, Mi., into a sunset. What a sight. Again, we stop for gas; this time MadDog tells a joke that has us convulsing in laughter. I mean it hurts to laugh this hard. We collect ourselves and continue on to Escanaba to rest for the night. Sat., August 5, 2000 Weather reports suggest we will see rain today. Looking to beat the rain, we head off on a fairly uneventful day with Minneapolis the goal. Unfortunately, I take the lead from OneEye for awhile, which as the club knows, can result in being stopped by the police. This time it is the Turtle Lake, Wisconsin Sheriff. We had been having some fun on the road, going too fast, passing anyone in the way. Apparently, someone called in on a cell phone and reported bad behavior by a blue bike and someone with a red jacket. I told the cop, we did not have anyone with a red jacket with us, that, in fact, I saw a blue bike and another bike with someone wearing a red jacket turn right onto another road. They had been following us, but were now gone. The sheriff, unsure, simply warned Moose, who rides a blue bike and said he wanted to find the guy in the red jacket. MadDog had already gone on to warn Mongo to lose the red jacket. The rest of the guys were down the road at a laundromat waiting. I got off, as though I had done no wrong!! The sheriff went back to the turn I pointed to in pursuit of the red jacket. We decided we might want to take it easy for the next few towns. Arriving at our motel, we crashed a 15th year HS reunion. They caught on very quickly, after I had told them we were the entertainment and asked us to leave. Then, a few ladies determined that if we paid $10, we could stay. I told them we never pay; bikers always crash events like this. We headed down the hall to the bar, but we were pursued by a few of the womenfolk to come back to the reunion, which they were sure we could liven up. I spent some time hanging out with Marcy, who was a cutie with just a bit too much to drink. I didn't watch the others, but quickly learned that there was a possible fight brewing involving Mongo. To my brother's side I rushed, to learn that there was a bit of a problem with a Puerto Rican who had no sense of humor. Hey, if you can't get a woman, at least get into a fight - is that some biker credo? Anyway, we had some fun that night. In the morning, I said my goodbyes to Marcy (don't read anything into this, just a nice midwestern gal), had Mongo take a picture of us and met everyone at the gas station across the street. I'm forgetting Mary. Mary has joined our group to ride on to Sturgis. Mary is a friend of OneEye's, her husband is taking a tour group out to Sturgis, so she is going to ride with us. Mary is a sweetie, taking responsibility for all that is wrong in this world and apologizing for it. She is great fun. Oh, yes, there was breakfast and laughter, of course. Sun., August 6, 2000 Sunshine!!! Leaving Minneapolis, will head to South Dakota today. As we ride through lush farmlands, the scenery is very pretty and interesting trying to imagine the lifestyles out on these farms. I don't think I had mentioned the water fights. Well, they have escalated. Each of us is carrying a water bottle, at our side, for hydration purposes, but the bottles have become weapons of mass destruction. Mongo has upped the ante, by purchasing a water pistol, with significant range. Everyone becomes a target; retaliation carefully planned and executed. A bit crazy. Racing along at 85mph, riding side by side, everyone with big smiles. This is what motorcycling is all about. We are growing closer as a group, each day knowing each other a little better and trusting riding skills to the extent that we pass things back and forth to each other, ride closely, talk, etc. We stop for gas and Trick can't get his bike started. We look for an electrical problem and several of us are attempting to analyze what is wrong. Trick is visibly frustrated and feels bad that he is holding up the group. First off, this is simply part of the adventure and we are learning that we will have to rely on each other and help in whatever way we can when one of us has a problem. The other thing you learn, is that the problem is easier to think through, when it is not your bike. If it is your own, you can only imagine the worst; logic leaves you. Thankfully, it does return with the help of your friends. Each of us will experience this somewhere during the trip. It turns out to be a fairly simple fix; Trick is relieved and we head off again. Later as we are riding into the most beautiful sunset so far, we are also crossing the Missouri River into South Dakota. As we came over the hill and approached the river, I was taken with the scene, wishing I had the skill to capture this moment in a photograph. Frankly, I think a big part of it is your own emotions, so a picture can never truly do it justice. A magnificent scene, the sun drops just as we pull into the parking lot of the motel we will occupy this evening. We are in Oacoma, S.D. Naturally, this means it is time for dinner. Tonight, Buffalo is the entrée and laughter is the dessert. Once again, some of us have to leave the table we are laughing so hard. Imagine laughing so hard you could lose weight. I return to my room early this evening, as I am tired and in need of longer rest. Mon., August 7, 2000 Hot!!! Sun!!! We are riding through part of the Buffalo Gap Grasslands National Park; talk about wide open spaces. Wow! Such an incredible sight, one can only imagine what it was like years earlier. We are headed towards the Badlands National Park. As we get closer, you begin to get a flavor for what you are about to enter. I cannot begin to convey the beauty and grandeur of the Badlands. I can't imagine any photo I take will do the job any better. I said to Trick, it almost doesn't look real. We are riding fairly slowly, all of gazing out at the outcrops, everywhere around us. We stop and begin climbing to reach even better viewing. This is just awesome. Cameras are clicking like crazy in all directions. What a thrill!! You cannot hike too far in the Badlands or you would become lost forever. So stark, nothing could survive out there. Yet, such beauty, as the sun moves the colors on the walls change to hues of red. I am awestruck and reduced to simple phrases of wonder. We continue on, occasionally stopping for more pictures, until we reach a little oasis of a café in the middle of nowhere. We are able to park our bikes in the shade of the few trees near the café. There are two tepees, with the Badlands in the background. We have a great lunch in the café and these two guys from North Carolina, Andy and Tony, come in. Andy and OneEye had met a few years earlier; crazy chance meeting here, they join us for lunch and decide to ride with us the rest of the way to Sturgis. We continue through the Badlands stopping again and again to take pictures, finally all posing for a big group photo with the wide expanse of the Badlands in the background. Out of the park, we are now headed to Wall, South Dakota for a visit to Wall Drug. World famous Wall Drug is simply a tacky, tourist trap to me, but I walk around anyway, after a drink at the Badlands Bar, across the street. Wall is packed with bikes, suggesting what is to come, since we are still more than 50 miles from Sturgis. This is wild, what a sight! I can't get over the number of bikes here. Onward to Sturgis, we run into a massive T-storm, with winds so strong, they are moving our bikes sideways. Squirrel is nearly thrown into the side of a Toyota Camry. Very dangerous, we stop and find cover at a fireworks shop, along with 30 or so other bikers. We are all watching the storm moving through. It has not stopped, but we determine that we can ride forward, as we must get to Spearfish to get the keys to our rental house before the place closes. The storm subsides and we continue on being showered first by rain and now by sunshine. As we reach Sturgis, we find this area is packed. Everywhere campgrounds are mobbed with trailers and bikes. It begins to look as though every available piece of ground is occupied by a motorcycle. The roads are congested with motorcycles. We only ride past the edge of Sturgis, gazing out at the sea of bikes and people. We continue on to Spearfish, another 17 miles and retrieve the keys to our rental, get directions and head across town to find it. We have ourselves a very nice 4 bedroom, 2 car garage home, with a nice view out the front door across the roadway. Lucky day; good to be here. We have a pecking order to determine who gets choice of bedrooms; I am fourth and choose a downstairs bedroom that is obviously a teenage boy's room. This will be quite comfortable. We all begin to settle in and make a run to a local grocery store for basic supplies for the house. We conduct a brief house meeting to set the tone for house behavior and to insure we treat this place respectfully. There will be no problem, as these are great people who will be careful. MadDog has gone off to find the place where he will be staying. Our concern for Mongo's sleeping arrangement is easily appeased when we learn there is a futon available for him, so he,too, should be very comfortable. We are all pretty exhausted, so we will spend the evening relaxing and hanging out at the house. Looking forward to Tues.; we'll get oil changes, bike wash, t-shirts, pins, etc. Hey, the poet has arrived. We learn, he'd come earlier and pitched his tent in the back yard. We invite him to stay indoors with us and tell us of his travels. He has some interesting tales to tell and has a plan of where he is heading. We encourage him to stick a couple of days and ride with us. Tues., August 8, 2000 Going to go to Whitewood at 8:00am to meet a good friend of my Mom. Joan Calderella, sixty-nine years old, riding a packed Heritage Softail across Montana and down into Sturgis. A wonderful meeting; good to see her. We take some pictures; OneEye and Mongo are quite taken with Joan. She is quite a lady. Her friend Billy tells us how she drives him hard all day, says she's unmerciful. After a bit, we head back to Spearfish to meet the others, who have gone for a morning ride. We stop to have some bikini clad girls wash our bikes; way too cool. Sit back and watch them clean our bikes while we ponder the day. They do an outstanding job and get great tips for doing such a great job and for being so darn cute. Later, we ride into Spearfish Canyon for the first time. Astonishing sights around every twist and turn in the road, finally stopping at Bridal Veil Falls; I am tingling with chills. Mongo is reduced to tears, all of us in awe of this spectacle. I am standing with OneEye's arm over my shoulder trying to find words to fit what I feel right now; they don't come. I tell him he never prepared me properly for this trip, not just this canyon, but the whole experience of riding out here. He looks at me and asks how he could have ever explained it. He's right. I look over at Mongo and he is clearly overcome. You must see this firsthand to understand how hard it hit all of us. Even those who had been there before had quite a reaction. And this is only the start of what we will see over the next several days in this area. I remember thinking, I must tell everyone in the club to find a way to do this at least once; doesn't matter what it takes, don't miss this!! Finally, out the other side of Spearfish Canyon, I am a bit less speechless and then we head toward Boulder Canyon, although not quite as dramatic, albeit still a great sight. We ride through the town of Deadwood; Wild Bill Hickock was shot in this very town. Love it. On we go to Sturgis. Greatest show on Earth. Wild! Nuts! Amazing sights. Just when you think you have seen everything, something or somebody else passes by to stop you in your tracks. We do our shopping this morning to get it out of the way. You could walk the vendors and shops everyday and still not see everyone of them in Sturgis. This is crazy. Buying more than I should, certainly more than I need, I decide this has to stop. Let's just continue looking at the sights. Meet this lady from California, with a paint job on her bike that is one of the most creative I have seen. She is cool. I mention the paint job being on her bike, because some women are walking around without much clothing, choosing to be painted instead. We get our oil changed; this is done quickly and expertly at one of the many oil change stations available throughout Sturgis. Nice little service. From Sturgis, we head up to Rapid City to get our Hog Pins, but the event has closed for the day. We meet some folks OneEye knows in Rapid City and eat pizza. The return trip includes riding over mountain passes and back through the canyons. We enjoy a moonlit ride through Spearfish Canyon. This is a bit of a hair-raising ride through the dark canyon, with silhouettes from our bike lights on the canyon walls. Everyone riding close, OneEye leading 55mph through amazing twists and turns; what a way to end the day. Get home at 11:00pm and we are all shaking our heads at the ride we just finished. Hanging out into the wee hours, on the deck, in the kitchen; everyone doing their thing. Some of us go off to the bars in Spearfish, the rest of us hang, talk and laugh through another night. What a day!!!!! Wed., August 9, 2000 We begin the morning with breakfast and conversation about our trip to Wyoming today. Naturally, we begin with a ride through Spearfish Canyon, which OneEye apologizes for, since we might just have to do this every morning. Ah, such a tough life! Great riding on the roads to Wyoming, what beautiful country. See a Golden Eagle soaring overhead, just before the Wyoming border. We are headed to Devil's Tower and also to Huelot, Wyoming, where they hold drag races on Main St. Huelot is supposed to be more freewheeling than Sturgis. Gotta be kidding!! Once again, we see a bike off the road; there are way too many accidents out here. We come around a turn on this road and there is Devil's Tower sticking up like it was meant to surprise me. I do have a problem, though. My rear tire is now bald and desperately in need of replacement. There is an HD dealer in Gillette, about 50 miles west of us. I decide to go for it, so OneEye, Mongo and MadDog go with me. The others continue to Devil's Tower. We will hook-up after my tire is repaired. I luck out and get a new tire at a reasonable price. Mongo needs a front tire, but has no luck; they don't have his size. Meanwhile, OneEye and MadDog are doing some repairs to their bikes under a tent, provided for such use. OneEye is all set. MadDog needs parts that won't arrive until the next day. The folks at HD agree to put him up in an old bus on their property at no charge. We get him supplied and head back to Spearfish, arriving at 9:30pm. All tuckered out from the day!! Thurs., August 10, 2000 Get up relatively early this morning. Decided to go off on my own today (sort of); Mongo will join me. We go down to Sturgis first, to find him a tire. No luck again, but a Dunlop representative evaluates his tire and advises him that it is ok. Up to Deadwood, Mongo and I get deputized as sheriffs. This town ain't big enough for these two sheriffs!!! We go to the bar, where Wild Bill was shot and check out the place, as we step back in time. We visit pictures of Calamity Jane, Buffalo Bill Cody and others. Otherwise, Deadwood is basically a tourist town, so we will move on. First, let's get pictures of all the bikes parked down at the Deadwood Train Station. Packed!! A quick lunch and off we go back to Wyoming to take pictures of stuff we missed on the first trip. We stop at the Buckhorn Saloon for a drink just before heading into Wyoming. Definitely, picture day. Mongo and I have a great time, riding and hanging out, seeing things we had not noticed before while riding with the group. On the way back through Spearfish Canyon, I suggest we take the dirt road and try to find RoughCut Falls. We find the trail; it is a 2mile hike, but I must go. We hike down and I decide to go in the water. The falls are beautiful, perhaps a 100ft. high; the water so cold, it hurts, but is so bloody refreshing. It soothes my sore ankle. Feels great. Hike back up to the bikes; was a nice respite from the 97 degree heat of the day. We arrive back at the house an early 4:30pm. Wait around for the rest of the guys to see what the evening will bring. Still no word from MadDog, although we are sure he must have gotten out of Wyoming by now. Fri., August 11, 2000 MadDog is back with us. Like any other morning, we head down Spearfish Canyon and like any other morning, it always hits you, something different each time. Destination today is Needles Hwy., Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse and Custer Park. Big day!! Lot of miles to cover. Needles Hwy., yeah right, a highway? Not even close. Narrow road winding up and through the mountains, lots of twists and turns like you have never seen and riding through tunnels. Almost unreal. We ride through the first tunnel and don't even stop, so I know OneEye must be planning a stop at an even more interesting spot. Sure enough, we come around a turn and my jaw just drops. There is a tunnel ahead, but to get to it you weave through these massive spires of rock into this tiny parking area, loaded with bikes. We take pictures and just shake our heads. Once again, way more than we bargained for; even OneEye is overwhelmed this time. Through the tunnel and out the other side the most panoramic view of all of the "needles" and mountains and a view of the road we will travel. Yikes!! Hold on tight, this road will test your skills. Down and down we go. We continue on through the Custer State Park and view Bighorn sheep, prairie dogs, wild mules and a herd of Buffalo, not to mention the vast grasslands. We stop for lunch and meet some members of a motorcycle club from Milford, who recognize us from the newspaper article and picture. They are impressed we rode out there and tell us they are always looking for a few good men. They mention a party in Greenville in September and invite us to come. I probably will! Don?t approach the sheep, they might charge. The prairie dogs are everywhere. The mules block the road and have everyone laughing. We do approach the herd of Buffalo, in spite of warnings not to; after all, gotta get pictures. On to Rushmore, we come to a tunnel and you can see Mt. Rushmore through the tunnel opening, even though it is still more than 20 miles away. More pictures. Eventually, we round a corner of a road that has these four huge heads looking over at us. Mighty impressive, although I am a bit jaded by all of the Rushmore stuff, I've seen over the years. It has less of an impact on me, than on the others. Don't misunderstand, it is really amazing and a must see. We begin to see some lightning and it appears we will see rain, but that does not dissuade us from getting over to Crazy Horse. Now Crazy Horse moved me in a way I cannot explain. From the moment I saw the face in the distance and continuing down onto the grounds, I felt an energy there. We saw a short film on the creation of this massive sculpture and learned some of the history before venturing into the Indian Museum. A great deal of history we have never been taught available here. I get some rocks to bring home. I wander the grounds alone and connect spiritually to this place. I will never forget the feeling I have here. We eventually work our way back to Needles to Sylvan Lake; I have been leading, as OneEye wanted a break. I suggested we go up to the tunnels and take a few last pictures of the late day, before turning back to Spearfish. This trip has been magic to this point and I can hardly believe what I have seen over the past few days, nor can I completely convey my emotions. Amazing time for all of us. We take some pictures and MadDog and I are on the other side of the tunnel, running a scam on some tourists. I have some kids and their Mom believing MadDog is a WWF wrestler. They want his autograph. He realizes what I am doing and goes into character. We have quite a laugh and let them drive away without ever telling them the truth. Mongo does not realize we are turning back and starts down the road in the wrong direction. MadDog follows. OneEye says, I thought we were turning back. I told him that was the intent, perhaps Mongo just wants another picture a bit further down. But, no, he has continued on, so we all have no choice except to follow him down. It is now dusk and we ride slowly. A deer darts right in front of me and only reinforces the need for caution. Mongo and MadDog are still a good ways out in front of us, as we cannot see nor hear them. We continue down, until we come around a turn and someone is flagging us to stop. A bit further there is bike in the road,down, with someone on the ground next to it. I look over at OneEye and say, I hope it is not one of our guys. He says, I know it it. We approach and I can see the light colored pants Mongo is wearing and I just feel sick. We stop and rush over to him. He is lying next to his bike and there is blood, but he looks ok. We speak to him and he responds. There is a woman who has been attending to him and the police and ambulance have been called. We are all freaked out by this and scared for Mongo and wondering what has happened. The magic has been snapped!!!!! We have seen accidents too often this week, but the impact is not the same as when you see a friend, no, a brother lying on the road. It is a sickening feeling. We are all reacting in different ways; I am most concerned with Moose's rantings. I don't want Mongo to hear him. We must try to find a way to calm down. OneEye is now speaking to Mongo and attempting to make him comfortable along with the stranger woman. I am talking to a couple of the guys and we are getting bikes moved off the road, as well as making sure we warn any car or bike to slow down. It's only 20 minutes, but it seems like an eternity before the police arrive. They attend to Mongo and finally an ambulance arrives and they work on getting him ready to move to the hospital in Custer. Meanwhile, the police are questioning MadDog who was the only person who saw what happened. OneEye and I walk with a policeman attempting to reconstruct what has happened. MadDog says a car crossed over into Mongo's path causing him to leave the roadway. You can see where Mongo has left the road and where he attempted to get back up on the road, which probably caused the crash. There is a significant skid mark on the road where MadDog says he locked his brakes to avoid hitting Mongo. I see potential questions and don't realize OneEye has the same questions but now is not the time to ask. We need to know Mongo's condition. A truck comes with a trailer to pick-up Mongo's bike, which we load onto the trailer. The damage is not a severe as one would imagine. Someone is watching over Mongo tonight, because I think he is very fortunate to be alive. Now, we must ride 28 miles to the hospital and we are all pretty jittery. This will not be easy, as you find it difficult to concentrate on riding, when all you can really think about is whether Mongo is ok or not. We also have learned that just a bit further down the road a woman has collided with a buffalo. We make it to the hospital and I suggest that only OneEye and I go in. The others wait outside. We learn that Mongo will be fine, but that they will move him to a hospital in Rapid City, where they can run a cat scan. Mongo is gonna be sore for some time with possible fracture in his forearm, a great deal of road rash, stitches in his head in two places and pain in his chest and rib area. But, very alive!!!! He speaks to us and is obviously confused and does not remember what happened. But, he is OK!! Ken Bateman comes in with us and talks to him a bit more. We discuss his condition with the attending physician and nurses. A bit of relief, but our trip has taken a serious turn and will not be the same. We must now ride approx. 80 miles back to Spearfish and we are not in the mood to do so. It is nearly midnight and we are overcome with exhaustion and emotion. We must stay close together, wildlife is in abundance in this area and will be testing us. We get approx. 20 miles down the road and suddenly OneEye pulls over. He is kicking his bike and then stops and says it has died. He is pissed, but, let's face it, it is not the bike. We are all discouraged by what has happened. OneEye's bike dying just adds to this mess. We determine that Mongo?s battery might be the answer, so I offer to go back and retrieve it. Moose and Squirrel offer to come with me. It's not easy removing the battery from Mongo's bike, as it is difficult to get at. I get the battery and tell Moosee and Squirrel to attend to Mongo's bike while I race back to OneEye. We get OneEye's bike going and it seems ok, but only for 37 miles and it dies permanently. We are at a campground and this little cute lady helps us out. She is terrific, like an oasis in this mess. We chain OneEye's bike to a hitching post and he rides with Moose, since he has the only backrest. Slowly, we return to Spearfish. At the house, we are all over the place emotionally. This trip is over!! Who can continue. How will Mongo fare in Rapid City. What really happened? Why did this happen? What do we do now? What about OneEye's bike? Tired! Some just want to get drunk. Some just want to talk. Some just want to be alone. MadDog left us to go to his place, so we can't even ask him any more questions. I go down to my room to be alone, convinced I don't want to ride without Mongo and OneEye. This is a long night. During this night we heard coyotes howling and saw meteor showers, most bizarre night I can remember. It will be difficult to regroup. Our enthusiasm is gone. We have several things to sort out of this mess and we are all uneasy about how to continue. Sat., August 12, 2000 It is a quiet morning, until OneEye calls the hospital in Rapid City and we learn Mongo is doing great and will be released from the hospital as early as tomorrow. OneEye gets updates from the nurses and then we speak to Don, who sounds pretty good. This is great news. Now, we have to get a rental truck for OneEye and Mongo's bikes. First call OneEye makes, to an outfit only 10 minutes away, he learns there is a 24" truck available, the last one in South Dakota. He takes it. The karma is back!!!! We feel an increased surge of energy; not everything is clear just yet, but it feels much better. OneEye informs the other of the news; everyone is elated. OneEye and Trick go off to get the truck immediately and upon returning, we decide that I will ride with OneEye and the others will meet us on their bikes to help load OneEye's bike. I tell OneEye, I will return with him, but he says I must finish the planned route for him and Mongo. I think I know I should go on, but I am concerned about doing so carrying bad baggage; must find a way to get back some of the energy, excitement and awe of this trip. OneEye and I are driving over the route back to his bike and talk about what happened and discuss our theories, which, at best, are just assumptions. We get to the campground where his bike is and begin to determine whether it can be started. The other guys have not arrived. With a charge on his battery, we are able to get the bike started. OneEye elects to ride the bike up the ramp, into the truck. I suggest that this is Evel Knievel stuff and could result in a nasty outcome. We laugh a bit uneasily, but he has made his decision. OneEye makes a pass at the ramp and goes by; the look in his eye tells me that this is on the edge. A second pass, not yet, he is getting psyched. Then, folks, let me tell you, I saw an amazing feat, OneEye rides up the ramp doing what looks like 40mph, hits the back of the truck; his bike shoots up in the air and he brings it to a stop. We are both whooping and hollering. I think I can hear his heartbeat from inside the truck. Wow! Award this guy the Big Balls in Cowtown award. I will never forget this sight. A bit later, the guys roll in and inquire about the bike; we show them the truck and begin to tell them what has transpired. They missed the show; OneEye Evel Knievel has performed!!!!! We tie down the bike and head off to the barn where Mongo's bike is being stored. Here, Squirrel and Moose give virtuoso performances with welding torches and imagination. They manufacture a way to hold Mongo's wheel in place in the truck; it can be view even now in OneEye's garage. We load Mongo's bike and determine we will now go up to Rapid City to see Mongo. We tell the others to head back. Poet elects to follow us, as he would like to see Mongo, too. Poet purchased a beautiful "dream catcher" for Mongo and would like to give it to him and talk to him. We get to Rapid City approx. 8:00 in the evening and find Mongo sitting up in a chair. Medicated but feeling pretty good; I get one of the best hugs you could hope for. Mongo is ok! He looks great, aside from the road rash and stitches. He decides he would like to ride back to N.H. with OneEye in the truck. We agree as long as the doctor clears him to do so. OneEye and I go back to Spearfish and have a quiet dinner before going to the house. Everyone else has gone down the Sturgis. Crazy night in Sturgis, the last night and anything goes. Sun., August 13, 2000 Uneventful beginning to the day. We each have a task to help clean up the house. We'd like to leave it as close to the condition we found it as possible. Trick and Squirrel are changing their oil in the driveway, trying to be really careful to leave no trace. OneEye is getting ready to leave with the truck to go to Rapid City to pick-up Mongo and head back to New Hampshire. This just does not feel right; I miss these guys even before they leave. MadDog shows up and says he will ride with me back to N.E. Trick has decided to accompany me on the Canada leg of the trip, at least back to Michigan. I am grateful not to be alone and I really enjoy Trick's company. OneEye has left, the rest of us head down to breakfast in town at about noon. We also have our first introduction to Billy-Bob here. It makes us all laugh and laugh hard. By 2:00pm we are ready to head out. Moose and Squirrel have decided to go straight to Michigan; I think Sqirrel would like to continue but there is pressure to return. Wow! This is a real downer; I think we are all emotionally spent. This adventure was not suppposed to play out this way. We should all still be together, laughing and riding and raising hell. Instead, we stand in the street looking lost with each other, watching others ride off. I hope my attitude changes, because right now this does not look so good. Only 3 of us remain, heading up into North Dakota; Trick and I have decided we will ride leisurely pace and take it easy. Hell, you gotta learn something from the events of the last couple days. MadDog on the other hand takes off and continues to ride fast. Well, we will see him down the road. Riding along in the middle of nowhere, I begin to find a new perspective to the trip and think about the separate adventures we have embarked on, albeit in different directions - Poet to Wyoming; OneEye & Mongo to N.H.; Squirrel & Moose to Michigan and Trick, me and the Dog to Canada. It is beginning to feel better; I think I'm back. Trick and I find MadDog off the side of the road walking around. Turns out his camera fell off at 100mph and he cannot find it. Off he goes again, Trick and I continue our easy pace. We do see some antelope flying along off to our left, what a neat sight, as they run parallel to the road. We ride through grasslands and see lots of cattle and horses, making for an interesting landscape. Landscape is becoming more interesting, less desolate. We reach a small town, where we expect to find the Dog. No luck. We look carefully but to no avail, so we continue on believing he knows our destination is Williston, N.D. We do stop at a bar on the way for a drink and wait thinking he might show up. No way! Rough roads bring us down to the North Dakota Badlands, stunning scenery. Trick and I stop and look in wonder. Later 3 deer cross the road in front of us and jump a fence. We get toWilliston and get a room at the El Rancho (great room), wondering where the Dog ended up. It's Trick's birthday and previously we had all planned to have a gala celebration for him, instead, it's just me taking him to a Subway for a sandwich. We talk about OneEye and Mongo and the guys and the fact that it's not the same and we do miss them. The Dog, who knows. Mon., August 14, 2000 We got a good nights sleep, only to be awakened by Trick's security alarm going off. He opens the door to find MadDog standing there grinning, while speaking into his phone, saying, "I've found them" to OneEye. Turns out, MadDog has been arrested by N.D. State Police for doing 91mph in a 65mph zone, plus DUI. He was taken to jail, but bailed himself out during the night and rode on to find us. He is expected in court on Tues., but he will be in Canada instead. We continue up to Fortuna, which just beyond we cross into Canada. First, MadDog needs to lose a switchblade that will cause some problems. The customs guy must have nothing to do, for he searches us pretty thoroughly. We cross into Saskatchewan and we learn what the Canadians call roads are actually pretty primitive. The terrain in Saskatchewan is so boring, you could fall asleep on the bike. We ride to Moose Jaw, because the name sounds cool; this too is a bit of a disappointment, except we learn Al Capone had tunnels built between buildings when he stayed here as an escape route. We opt not to visit them. We are dominated by strong winds and much colder temperatures. We are adding clothing to stay warm. We stop to photograph the vast fields of Sunflowers and take a few pictures along the way to prove we really are in the middle of nowhere. On to Saskatoon, heavy winds continue to prevail; this will be a long day. As we reach the city of Saskatoon, I drop my rear shift lever, but fortunately put it in my pocket. I can fix this later, just glad it was not the front shift lever. We find a hotel almost across from the Saskatoon HD dealer and get a great nights rest. We are a bit uneasy about having to leave our bikes eleven floors below us, out of sight and out on the street. The hotel clerk agrees to keep watch over them and it turns out ok. Tues., August 15, 2000 The good folks at Saskatoon HD offer to repair my shift lever and make sure the front lever won?t vibrate off. Purchase our prized t-shirts and look at various other stuff to buy. We continue our trip, except now we begin to turn East. The scenery does not vary much, as it is quite flat grain fields until we reach a lake and hills just before crossing into Manitoba. There are actually turns in the road and some trees, very exciting. We are headed for the Lake Manitoba narrows. Sunset in our mirrors, we are riding through heavy woods toward the lake. Splendid scene, looking back at the sunset and forward to the lake, we won't make the lake in time to catch the sunset photo we hoped for. We meet some kids across the first part of the narrows who are very interested in our bikes. They are doing community service building trails at the lakeside. Turns out, they are doing time for crimes such as aggravated assault and armed robbery; they are too young to be so screwed. We have a talk with them about getting themselves straightened out; MadDog is actually fairly effective in conveying the need for education and sorting themselves out of the mess they have placed themselves in. We continue on into the cold evening, slowly losing daylight, until we reach the small town of Erikdale, with a motel, the only rooms available. Doesn't look like much, but it will suffice. We are weary and the darkness prevails upon us to get off the road for the night. We have no idea when we might reach another town, as they are scattered out here. I think we have 60 miles to Winnipeg tomorrow. Wed., August 16, 2000 To Winnipeg we go on a cloudy, cold day with a big wind again. By the time we reach Winnipeg, it begins raining, making the ride all the more slow. We stopped at the Winnipeg HD dealer, but for no good reason. Time is simply wasted and will cost us our destination of Thunder Bay today. Ontario is beautiful and Rt. 17 is all and more than everyone told us. The Moose warning signs are quite intimidating, as they portray every Moose as huge and always charging; this can be disconcerting and help us decide to get off the road by dusk. Unfortunately, no pictures being taken due to the weather, but it does not diminish it's beauty for me. We only make it as far as Dryden, a disappointing day in terms of mileage. Interestingly, Trick and I find MadDog in a lounge behind P.I's Family Restaurant watching a stripper. There are three strippers to perform for about 7 patrons. When Bobbie Joe calls me sweetheart and tells me she will come out to meet me, MadDog flips. Wants to know my secret. I tell him it is my eyes, a certain look; he demands I show him the look. I don't think he is ready for it. Bobbie Joe comes out and we talk for a bit; nice person who I can't understand why she would choose this lifestyle. It is demeaning and she is attractive and with some self-esteem could do better. I go back to my room. MadDog, of course, is convinced he will be partying with one of the strippers all night. Right! We need a big mileage day tomorrow as Trick wants to get to Michigan by Friday for his anniversary. The goal is 600 miles and we will get up at 5:30am to do it. On the road by 8:00am, with 12hrs. of riding time; we can do it!! Thurs., August 17, 2000 We get our early start in spite of MadDog, but it does not look good for a long day. Heavy rain will impede our ability to make good time. The scenery continues to be spectacular in spite of the rain. Very pretty area, I wish I was taking pictures, but it is just too wet to get out a camera. We didn't make but 500 miles to WaWa, Ontario, a desolate place in the middle of nowhere. People can spend days trying to get out of this town. Wilderness town, home to the hardy. Get a room in a nothing special place, with the only store across the street. Don?t expect much and don't get it. Look to another early start tomorrow again, which MadDog protests, but we insist it is necessary. Trick and I have been rooming together now for several days and we've gotten to know each other much better. He's a great guy, easy to travel with. We have stuck to our plan of riding easy paced and avoiding any more trouble and I think it has helped relax both of us. Fri., August 18, 2000 Got off to an early start today. Dry for the time begin, although showers threaten; it is still cold. Riding through Superior Provincial Park is stunning with cliffs breaking down to Lake Superior. Trick will make it home by nightfall, in time to celcbrate his anniversary with Gail. We are warned of torn up roads and thick gravel dust by a driver coming the opposite direction. Thanks to the warning, we cover our faces with bandanas and survive this portion of road. We will make Sault Ste. Marie fairly early this morning. I will miss Trick's company; I have made a good friend. Ride safe, Trick!! He is a good guy; hope to stay in touch. We are told by a trucker who had seen us further west in Canada a couple days earlier that we would be better off if we went into Michigan, as the road to Sudbury is bad and could take us 9 hrs. to cover what is normally a 2hr. ride, plus the roads out of North Bay are just as bad. Michigan is just not an option for me, I will continue the route and deal with the bad roads. MadDog and I put on our raingear as it begins raining and ride east. We shoot along through light rains at about 75mph all day. We reached the bad roads near Sudbury, but they were not as bad as predicted. We manage, slowly to work our way through, me a bit slower than the Dog. North Bay is no different, we manage and realize that we can make Pembroke by evening, which would give us 500 miles for the day and a shorter haul to Montreal tomorrow. Just after a gas station attendant warns us of the number of police on the roads and the fact that, "they are real pricks" MadDog takes off doing 100 miles an hour again. So long!!! I pull into Pembroke at 8:00 in the evening and check the first gast station and restaurant and then a Best Western, but find no trace of MadDog's bike. Jail again? Who knows! Rooms are at a premium because of a big soccer tournament, so I am relieved to finally find one, in town. I check the HD dealer in Pembroke, thinking the Dog could be there, but no. Alas, at 11:00pm, my phone rings; it's the Dog at a different motel and he has a room for both of us. I'm not moving, so I tell him I will see him there in the morning. He had arrived in Pembroke at 6:30, got a room and went off thinking he would find me. Sat., August 19, 2000 We meet at his motel, not far from the highway. We have only 65miles to Ottawa and probably only 250 miles to the Vermont border. Weather is cloudy, but a bit more promising, albeit quite cold. MadDog is concerned about oil leaking, so we decide to stop in Hawkesbury, Ontario at the HD dealer. Hawkesbury is about 30 or so miles past Ottawa, which is better than going into Ottawa trying to find the dealer there. We get to Hawkesbury and it is crawling with bikes, but nobody speaks English. It is funny, pointing to our Harley-Davidson on our bikes trying to get directions to the bike shop. We do find it, but still have to cross the language barrier, but some of the folks there speak English. MadDog has his bike checked and learns that his air cleaner is saturated with oil (could 100mph cause this??) Takes it apart and cleans it up, while one of the mechanics vacuums out his filter. I manage to overfill my oil and have to vacuum some out. Eventually, we go off to lunch, before heading out on the road for what could be a leisurely ride since we are not far from Vermont. The only thing getting in the way is traffic. As we approach Montreal, we encounter traffic, lots of it and it is a surprise because it has been so long since we have had to deal with traffic. We are stopped on Montreal in a traffic jam, the first of several. Previously, I had told MadDog to take Rt. 40 into the city and 15 out and we could cross into Vermont this way. MadDog wanted to go straight to Rt. 89 in Vermont. Suddenly, he takes off from the traffic and winds in and out moving out of sight. I don't need the hassle or stress so I just sit and wait it out. By the time I cross the bridge, MadDog is not in sight and I need to make a decision so I take Rt. 15. It becomes apparent very quickly that he did not go this way and I think I should backtrack, but there is not an easy exit to do so. To hell with it, I will just continue and perhaps catch him in Burlington at the Hog Rally. I cross into Vermont via Lake Champlain and it is sunny and beautiful with views of the Green Mountains in the distance. This reinforces my decision to go this way and makes me feel good about being closer to home and the fact that we have such great riding in New England. I do go up to Burlington, thinking I will find MadDog, but not even close. This was not a wise decision, as all I have managed to do is get lost in Burlington. I find my way to Rt. 7 and relax to have an easy ride to Middlebury, where I will go over the gap, which is one of my favorite rides in Vermont - Middlebury Gap over to Rt. 100. I hope that MadDog is as relaxed as me and headed to Northfield to meet his friend. I will head down to Ludlow. I am following the BMB (Boston-Montreal-Boston Bicycle Race) route and think I might see some of the cyclists or perhaps an old acquaintance or two. I get to Ludlow in the middle of their Zuchini Festival and am lucky to get a room in town. The town is buzzing with excitement, all sorts of zucchini related events and a car race up Okemo Mtn in the morning. I take a walk and reflect on the past days and find myself smiling, knowing that almost everyone is now home safe and I am close. Part of me wants it to last a bit longer, but for now I will sleep. Sun., August 20, 2000 Leisurely day, I get up later and wander into town, on foot, for a light breakfast. No hurry today, I just want to enjoy the sunshine and some good old fashioned New England riding. Taking my time down Rt. 103, I head towards Brattleboro and Rt. 5. Still somewhat cold, I am very relaxed leaning back looking around. I am still deciding which route to take home and as I cross into New Hampshire, I know it will not be Rt. 101. As I crossed into N.H., the same old cop that always waits for speeding vehicles is sitting there. Ha! Fooled him, I'm going slow and stopping for gas. Time for some "lefts and rights" the way OneEye and me like. I will find a route that will have me passing through Mont Vernon, so I can go to Mongo's house and see him and give the guy a hug. I want to make sure he is well and I will get an opportunity to meet his wife, Cathy. I am thrilled to meet Cathy, what a neat lady. And so, so good to see Mongo!!!! He looks good and I am relieved he is Ok. He is a good friend and I feel close to him and OneEye as a result of our trip. On to Amherst, stop and see OneEye, who really needs to grow some hair on that ugly face of his. OneEye is one of my favorite people to ride with and laugh with. I will forever thank this guy for inviting me on this trip to Sturgis, I only wish we would have finished together. We must take another trip, doesn't matter where, but OneEye, Mongo and the Walrus need to finish one together. A strong bond has developed as a result of this trip. I learn from OneEye that MadDog broke down in St. Alban's, Vermont. He is stranded. I feel bad about that, but I also know I needed to be alone on the road and do my own route. Finally, at home, there will be lots to reflect on about this trip. There are many pleasant memories and special friends made during this trip. This is not the end, as we have already begun talking about our next adventure and the next trip to Sturgis. I find that even keeping a journal, you can't begin to find the words that describe all that has transpired during these 20 days. It has been an emotional roller coaster with mostly thrills, but when it came down it rushed down hard. I am fortunate to have ridden all the way back with little or no incident. I will smile whenever anyone mentions Sturgis; I will most likely be laughing when it is OneEye or Mongo doing the talking. Anyone who rides a motorcycle should find a way to make a trip to Sturgis (but you gotta ride there) and I hope you can find a group of people as I have that will make it more memorable than you can possibly imagine. I think about the rides we did in South Dakota and Wyoming and the images are dancing in my thoughts. At times, it was surreal out there, as though we had been transported back in time or, perhaps, were starring in a bad B movie about bikers. It has been unlike anything I have ever done in the past and considering my storied past and travels, this says something. Riding side by side, just as OneEye described over endless beauty, smiling in awe, looking over at the guy next to you and with no words said knowing he is thinking the same thing. Watching the Squirrel do 180mph down a straightaway leaves me just shaking my head. The Moose sneaking up on me with that Battlestar he rides. MadDog weaving in and out, cutting people off, racing down the road. OneEye, ride leader extroardinaire!! Mongo, my main man, partner on the road. Trick laid back, always riding easy. The Walrus chasing the Moose by the side of the road. The little airplane that OneEye mounts on the front of the rental truck because he thinks Mongo would like that. The laughs in the house each night and next morning. All the other folks we met on the road, riding from all over. The locals we met, always curious about us and we about them. Laughing so hard, you lose weight. Kenny showing up in the middle of South Dakota and disappearing into Wyoming; hope to see ya soon. I can think of another hundred exchanges between all of us that will never be spoken of or written down, because they are so many. Wildlife everywhere, sometimes a bit too close to my wheel, but always beautiful. Especially the antelope running parallel to us. Ponderosa Pines!!!!!!! Needles, the highs and lows. Stunning!! The range of emotions. And me, maybe forever, I am the Walrus, Googoogachoo!!! |
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