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The soil should be worked enough to remove any physical obstruction
to root development When the carrots have
sprouted, thin them out so the plants are approximately 3-4 inches apart
to avoid overcrowding. . When the tops of the carrots grow thicker, thin
them to about two to three inches apart. Some seed companies are now
offering pelletized seed, making the seeds easier to plant and thin.
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After plants are established, mulches will help conserve
moisture and prevent excessive weed growth. Cultivation, if necessary, should be
shallow in order to avoid root injury. Carrots require an
evenly-distributed and plentiful soil moisture supply throughout the
growing season. However, avoid too much moisture towards the end of the
season as this will cause roots to crack.
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Watch for the appearance of orange
crowns at the soil level as the plants mature. If this occurs, mulch
with soil or compost as the sunlight will turn them green. Carrots that
are exposed to the sun turn green and bitter-tasting. To keep them
orange and sweet, make sure the roots stay completely covered with soil.
Like most vegetables, carrots need at
least 1 inch of water weekly during the growing season. Always soak the
soil thoroughly when watering. this helps to promote good root
development, but not excessively ,so as to avoid rot. Inexpensive
Water timer systems are available.
To prolong the harvest, you can make succession plantings every
two weeks until the temperature hits about 80°F, then, when temperatures cool in
autumn, plant another crop for winter harvesting.
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Good garden companions
when planting carrots are Peas, lettuce, chives, onions, leeks,
rosemary, sage, tomatoes, Bush beans, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, onions,
peppers, red radishes. Sage planted with carrots will enhance the
carrots growth. Avoid planting carrots in proximity of Pole beans,
strawberries, and especially Dill as it stunts their growth.
See:
Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening
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Fertilizer and Soil
Carrot plants thrive in deep, loose, well-drained soil rich in organic
matter. Avoid stony,
cloddy or trash-laden soils as they increase the incidence of root
defects. Because raised-beds usually have loose soil and receive little
compaction from foot traffic, they are an ideal location to grow
carrots. Carrots grown on heavy soils may produce considerable leaf
growth and forked roots.
Be certain to track the
soil pH
5.5 - 7.5 is best for carrots
Carrots need lots of potassium. Boost your soil's supply by
sprinkling wood ashes over the planting area before you sow the seeds.
Avoid manure and other fertilizers high in nitrogen;
they'll encourage top growth at the expense of good root development. If your
carrots turn out with a branch or two, it means they're getting too much
nitrogen. Root crops- such as onions, beets, carrots,
potatoes and turnips- need the support of soil that's rich in potassium and
phosphorus. Root Crops Alive!
is packed with these essential nutrients in the right balance needed by root
crops. Unlike greensand-based fertilizers, the potassium in Root Crops Alive! is
plant-based, so root crops benefit immediately. [From Gardens Alive! ]
See: The Sustainable Vegetable Garden: A Backyard Guide to Healthy Soil and Higher Yields
Common Carrot Varieties
Hundreds of carrot varieties exist, There
are four primary groups
Imperator ,Nantes ,Danvers ,Chantenay {Carrot Seeds}
The following are my personal favorites, you of course may prefer to scan
any of the many online
nurseries and seed catalogs.
Traditional Varieties |
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Novelty Varieties |
Nantes
Pushing its deep orange shoulders up to the surface days
and even weeks sooner than most others, Nantes is an exceptionally sweet
variety just made for slicing! The 6- to 7-inch roots are firm,
straight, and not tapered, with inconspicuous cores - 62 Days
Baby Little Finger Heirlooms
An extra sweet, tiny Nantes type gourmet carrot only 3 1/2" long and
5/8" thick with smooth skin and small cores
Oxheart Carrot
Hardy
Biennial Introduced from France prior to 1884, this broad-shouldered,
robust carrot thrives in heavy soils. An excellent keeper with great
taste. up to one-pound roots. Reselected and improved strain. Planting
Depth: 3/8" Soil Temp. for Germ.: 50-80°F Days to Germ.: 7-14 Plant
Spacing: 1"-3" Days to Maturity: 65-75
Touchon Heirloom Carrot
One of the finest of the Nantes-type carrots, the best for eating
out of hand sweet and tender, free from hard fiber. |
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White Satin Carrots
A Ghostly white Carrot with Extra Crunch! Just as sweet and
nutritious as its orange cousins.
Organic Yellowstone Carrot
This solid yellow
Danvers-type variety has broad, square shoulders, pointed tip and large
tops. Carefully selected for a uniform shape. Nearly as sweet as
traditional orange carrots, with a mild, pleasing flavor. Vigorous and
widely adaptable. Planting Depth: 3/8' Soil Temp for Germ.: 55-75°F
Plant Spacing: 1-3" Days to Maturity: 70-75
Kesar
Red Carrots, tasty , hardy.
Seed & Nursery Catalogs
Thompson & Morgan
Burpees
Hirts
Ferry Morse
Park Seed
DirectGardening.com
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Common Pests
Nematodes - microscopic worms which
live in the soil and feed on the host plants roots preventing the the plants
from taking up the nutrients they need to grow . Some forms of nematodes are
highly beneficial , while others can wreak total destruction .
Predator Nematodes
are effective against destructive nematodes.
See Also:
Oregon State University - Carrot Nematode
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Aphids
Several aphid species are pests of carrots. Most aphid damage
is caused to young carrots when aphids feed on tender growing plant
tissue. Carrot leaves will often become yellow and wilt and the
distorted growth of roots and shoots often results
Aphids have many natural enemies such as
lady beetles , green lacewing larvae, and parasitic wasps that
also help to control aphids.
Worms -
Wireworms,
Celery worm
Carrot Rust Fly
maggots damage plants by eating the small fibrous roots and by
tunneling in larger roots. A rust-colored material develops in the
tunnels, giving the insect its name. Affected plants may become
yellow, stunted, and die. Usually the plant tops continue to look
healthy. Maggots often continue to feed in stored carrots. Disease
organisms may enter the feeding tunnels and cause them to rot.
Bioneem
has proven effective against this pest |
Carrot
Weevil
The carrot Weevil adult is a
dark-brown snout beetle about 6 mm long It over winters in plant
debris in and about carrot fields that were infested the previous
year.
They feed on foliage, chewing out
notches, damage is usually not severe.
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Sharpshooter Natural Insecticide
Citric acid destroys the wax coating of the insect's respiratory system.
When applied directly, the insect suffocates. Sharpshooter is biodegradable.
Persons with known citrus allergies may be affected. Do not spray on red
mature fruits. Effective on most insects including aphids,
beetles, caterpillars, cutworms, earwigs, flies, gnats, lacebugs,
leafhoppers, loopers, mites, moths, snails/slugs, mosquitoes, whiteflies
Hot Pepper Wax
repels bugs from your plants, fruits and flowers. 100% natural spray
uses pepper extract and wax to effectively discourage pests. Helps to reduce
stress on cuttings.
See
Pest
Control
for more extensive data
Disease
Alternaria leaf spot is a fungal disease caused by Alternaria dauci. It
overwinters in diseased debris in the soil and it may be spread on or in
contaminated seed ,or by the wind. The disease usually start on older
leaf margins causing dark spots with yellow borders to develop.
Spots on the leaf stems will elongate and kill the entire leaf.
Infection most commonly occurs during the cooler portions of the
growing season when the leaf moisture does not dissipate as quickly.
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Safer's Defender Garden Fungicide: 500mL Concentrate
sulphur-based fungicide which controls the most common
surface-infecting fungal problems such as powdery mildew, black
spot, apple scab and rust. Defender actually defends the plants by
covering them with a protective coating.
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Asters yellows is caused by a
bacteria that overwinters in
perennial weeds and is transmitted to the plant by leafhoppers. Infected
plants have yellowish dwarfed leaves that are usually arranged in a
tight rosette. Older leaves often develop reddish margins and eventually
break off from the rest of the plant. The disease also reduces the size
and quality of the roots. The carrots are malformed and develop many
hairy secondary roots. Infected roots are tough, off-flavor and lighter
in color. There is no control for asters yellows once a plant becomes
infected. Therefore, growers must prevent the disease by controlling
leafhoppers.
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Black Root rot of carrots ia a
post-harvest problem, although soil is the source of the pathogen.
Black, irregular areas are seen on the roots. Physical injury
predisposes carrots to infection, but disease can be minimized by
washing soil from them, cooling them as quickly as possible to at
least 45o, and by rinsing them in chlorinated water before placing
them in bags.
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Cercospora leaf spot is caused by
a fungus , it affects all foliar parts of the plant but not the roots.
Infection usually first occurs on young leaves in the margins. Lesions
are small and round with a tan to back center and an indefinite yellow
halo. Many spots on one leaf can cause withering and death. Infection of
the leaf stalks results in pale centered, elliptical tan lesions.
Disease development is favored under warm and humid weather.
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Powdery Mildew - The surface of affected
leaves are covered by a white mass of the fungus, which has a
powdery texture. Symptoms may also be found on petioles. Treat with
Garlic GP: Vegetablel Fungicide
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See
Also:
Management of Carrot Leaf Diseases Ontario ministry of Agriculture
Plant Pathology Carrots
Harvesting
Generally you begin harvesting carrots when they turn bright
orange - 60 to 80 days after planting, depending on the variety,
but they are also harvested as soon as they are at
a usable size, such as baby carrots. I prefer to wet the
bed, uh ... the ground that is, with water first, making the carrots easier to
pull.
Cut the leaves off as soon as
carrots are out of the ground; as long as they're attached, they'll keep growing
and drawing moisture and nourishment from the roots.
Carrots destined for storage must be handled carefully during and after
harvest to avoid bruising and breaking the skin.
See:
Root Cellaring : Natural Cold Storage of Fruits & Vegetables
Carrots can be left in the ground and covered with
mulch until early-mid winter as long as they don't freeze. When kept at
just above freezing, they become sweeter and keep quite nicely
until harvest. Some growers cover their carrots at the onset of winter
with a cold frame to prevent the snow from piling up on the
carrots. Additional References
Carrots Love Tomatoes : Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening
Rodale's Garden Problem Solver : Vegetables, Fruits, and Herbs
Burpee : The Complete Vegetable & Herb Gardener : A Guide to Growing Your Garden Organically
Carrots - Cornell University
Carrots - Iowa State University
Carrots -
University of California
Carrots - University of Minnesota
Carrots in Michigan - Michigan State University
Growing Carrots and Other Root Vegetables - University of Minnesota
Contact Information
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