Japanese Beetles
Identification and Control
Most Effective Control For Japanese Beetles is * Milky Grub Spore
which controls Japanese Beetles by killing them while they are still in the white grub stage stopping them from feeding on grass roots and feeder tubes of shrubs and bushes. Each time infected beetle larvae die and decay they will each release billions of new spores adding to the protection of your landscape. Milky Spore rapidly spreads and saturates for effective total control in 1 to 3 years and lasts 15 to 20 years once established
The Japanese beetle is a highly destructive plant pest . In its native Japan Where the beetle's natural enemies keep its populations in check, this insect is not a serious plant pest.
In North America , however, the beetle entered without its natural enemies and found a favorable climate and an abundant food supply. Sounds something like Plymouth Rock...but that's another topic altogether.
Both as adults and as grubs (the larval stage), Japanese beetles are destructive plant pests. Adults feed on the foliage and fruits of hundreds of species of trees, shrubs, vines, and vegetable crops. Adults leave behind skeletonized leaves and large, irregular holes in leaves.Both as adults and as grubs (the larval stage), Japanese beetles are destructive plant pests. Adults feed on the foliage and fruits of hundreds of species of trees, shrubs, vines, and vegetable crops. Adults leave behind skeletonized leaves and large, irregular holes in leaves.
The grubs develop in the soil, feeding on the roots of various plants and grasses .The adult Japanese beetle is a little less than 1/2 inch long and has a shiny, metallic-green body and bronze-colored outer wings. The beetle has six small tufts of white hair along the sides and back of its body under the edges of its wings. The males usually are slightly smaller than the females. You are most likely to see the adults in late spring or early summer.
As a child I recall squashing these bugs and the guts reminded me of rice, at the time I associated rice with the orient and thought that was why they were called Japanese Beetles ... squash one.. you'll see.During the breeding period, females intermittently leave plants, burrow about 3 inches into the ground--usually into turf--and lay a few eggs. This cycle is repeated until the female lays 40 to 60 eggs.
By midsummer, the eggs hatch, and the young grubs begin to feed. This insect spends about 10 months of the year in the ground in the larval stage.
In early spring, the grubs return to the turf and continue to feed on roots until late spring, when they change into pupae. In about 2 weeks, the pupae become adult beetles and emerge from the ground. This life cycle takes a full year.
There is no real effective Biological control ( Beneficial insects) in the battle against Japanese Beetles, as previously stated they have no real predator enemies in North America. Biological control ( Beneficial insects) has proven effective to some extent against the grubs/larvae however. Roses and raspberries are said to deter Japanese beetles. Milky Spore is the most effective treatment
Trapping
Several traps using a floral lure and sex attractant are available. These traps are not recommended for general use unless special conditions can be met. The traps have been demonstrated to be effective in reducing damage and populations only when landscapes are isolated from other Japanese beetle populations or when mass trapping is used. The lures used in the traps can actually greatly multiply your infestation of beetles by drawing them in from the surrounding area. your Yard or Garden could become "The Red-light district" for these varmints.
In most urban areas, traps tend to attract more beetles into the area than would normally be present. In this situation, adult feeding and resultant grub populations are not reduced.
The adults can be controlled by spraying susceptible plants with insecticides. Over-the-counter pesticides available During the heavy adult activity periods, sprays may be needed every 5 to 10 days. The following products are recommended for Home Gardeners
Grubs / Larvae
Biological Control of Grubs
Biological control includes the use of existing natural controls-enemies of pests (predators, parasites and diseases) that already are present Under ideal conditions, biological control has a sustainability that is lacking in some other management options.
Insect parasitic nematodes have demonstrated effectiveness against grubs. Apply the nematodes when the white grubs are small. Irrigate before and after applying the nematodes.
Nematodes are microscopic nonsegmented worms which occur naturally in soil all over the world. Thousands of strains exist with different lifestyles. Beneficial nematodes only attack soil dwelling insects and leave plants alone. The nematodes enter the host through body openings or by penetration of the body wall. Once inside they release a bacterium which kills the host within 48 hours. The nematodes continue to reproduce and its offspring begin to seek out new host material. Beneficial nematodes are a totally safe biological parasitic insect control organism. The beneficial nematodes are so safe the EPA has waived the registration requirements for application.
Chemical Controls of Grubs (See Note on Garden Chemicals)
Grubs are best controlled when they are small and actively feeding near the soil surface, usually late July to mid-August. Control of grubs in late-fall or early-spring is difficult, at best, because the grubs are large and are generally not be feeding.
See: Biology of the Japanese Beetle (Technical bulletin / United States Department of Agriculture)
Note; Insecticide labels provide an extensive amount of information and indicate that the insecticide has been extensively tested, and evaluated by the EPA . Insecticides cannot be legally registered, much less sold, without going through these procedures. Among the information included on an insecticide label is the "directions for use", and perhaps more importantly, information with regard to the toxicity of the chemical. Any chemical is potentially toxic . READ THE LABEL BEFORE APPLYING ANY PESTICIDE. & Follow all label directions. This publication contains pesticide recommendations. Changes in pesticide regulations occur constantly, some materials mentioned may no longer be available, and some uses may no longer be legal.
