How to grow
Tomatoes
Abigal Gordon's Home Grown Tomatoes
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Preserving the Harvest
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Tomatoes are the most poplar garden crop in North
America. Hundreds of varieties of tomatoes are available for the home
gardener. They range widely in size, shape, color, plant type, disease
resistance, and seasons of maturity. And they have a multitude of uses,
from Salads to Sauces and even pickles & Jelly.
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Planting Tomatoes
You can sow tomato seeds
directly in the soil, But it is preferable to start them off early in
planters.
If purchasing seedlings for transplant choose those with
straight stalks, at least the thickness of a pen, and with 4 to 6 young
true leaves [See
Figure 1] , but NO blossoms.
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Tomato cages, supports and stakes
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Plants in individual
peat pots or cell packs experience little or no
transplant shock and become established quickly. Be sure to use a sterile
starting mix , I generally use a half-peat half-vermiculite
mix.
If you are starting your plants from seeds yourself there
are a few tips you may wish to adhere to.
- Check the dates on the seed package, if more than three years old, don't
waste your time. As tomato seeds age, their germination rate decreases.
- For the best chances of success, when starting from seed, either
indoors or directly in the outdoor soil. Acquire your seeds from
a reputable commercial source.
- For seed conditioning prior to planting , one
technique is to soak the seeds in warm water at approximately 50 degrees
C, for slightly less than 1/2 hour. Any hotter, or much longer could cook
the seed .
Be sure to give the seedlings room to expand. Close
conditions will inhibit their growth. Transplant them to a larger pot as soon as they get several
true leaves [See
Figure 1] , and if need be, move them into larger pots about two
weeks after that.
Conditioning and Hardening your tomato seedlings before transplanting
outdoors is advisable.
- Tomato plants need to be flexible, they must sway freely in the breeze.
Condition your seedlings by providing a breeze by turning a fan on them for
10 - 15 minutes twice daily.
- Harden your tomato plants for several days before transplanting outside.
The first day take the plants outside to a shady, protected spot for a few
hours. Gradually increase the time each day and expose the plants to more
sun and wind .
When Planting your
seedlings outdoors, Wait till the the last spring frost date in your region
before planting or transplanting outdoors . See
USDA
Zone Map to determine when it is suitable for your area.
You should plan on at least 2 feet Spacing
between Tomato Plants and another 2 feet
between rows to give you walking room amongst your tomato garden, and to
provide each plant with ample sunshine and air circulation. Plants to be caged are planted
30 to 36 inches apart.
Even if you have
hardened them, it is still advisable that you Transplant tomatoes on a
cloudy, wind free day or wait until the later in the afternoon. Do not
transplant them outdoors in direct summer sunlight.
Bury tomato plants deeper than they come in the pot, all the way up to a few
top leaves. Pinch off the bottom leaves of your seedling. Tomato plants develop
roots along the stem and should be set deeply with the first set of leaves near
the soil surface. If in peat pots,
remove the top of the pot , so that the soil ball will not dry out. A
modest amount of soluble starter fertilizer, high in phosphorus should be
applied at planting time. Crushed eggshells will also help supply needed calcium
to your tomato plants add a handful to each hole when planting outdoors.
Cover up with pots immediately after planting. Or provide some adequate form
of shade for the new seedlings.
As the plants grow, shake them mildly from time to
time or drag a stick gently across the tops of the plants. The plants will
react by producing sturdier stems that are less brittle
The use of
Tomato Cages and ladders is
also advisable to avoid damage and or
loss of your plants & crop due to the overburden of well cared for
fruit. |
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Climate
Optimum temperature for growing tomatoes and for the fruit to set is
range of 70 to 80F (21 to 27C)Blossom drop can occur in early spring when
daytime temperatures are warm, but night temperatures fall below 55 degrees
F . Blossom drop can also occur in summer months, when days are above 90
degrees F and night temperatures remain above above 75 degrees F, but is
less common in a well maintained and watered garden.
Watering Tomatoes |
Example of
water stress |
Watering is critical to the development of Tomatoes. Water slowly and
deeply . Tomatoes require about an inch of water weekly slightly more in
sandy soils. Inexpensive Water timer systems are available .
Once the fruit begins to ripen, slightly decreasing the water will coax the
plant to concentrate its sugars. Don’t decrease the water too much, or that
the plants may wilt and become stressed or they could drop their blossoms
and possibly their fruit.
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Pruning / "Pinching Back" |
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Pinch and remove suckers that develop in
the crotch joint of two branches. They won’t bear fruit and will
take energy away from the rest of the plant. But go easy on
pruning the rest of the plant. You can thin leaves to allow the
sun to reach the ripening fruit, but it’s the leaves that are
photosynthesizing and creating the sugars that give flavor to
your tomatoes. As well excessive pruning can lead to
sunscald
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Once the tomato plants are about 3'
tall, remove the leaves from the bottom 1' of stem. These are usually the
first leaves to develop fungus problems. They get the least amount of
sun and soil born pathogens can be unintentionally splashed up onto them.
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Fertilizing Tomatoes
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Blossom-end rot,
as
depicted in the above illustration, can be caused by a calcium
deficiency and occurs frequently on acid soils or during stress
periods on soils with seemingly sufficient calcium.
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Tomatoes thrive in rich soil, compost, lots of water, lots of sun ..6 or
more hours daily, They are acid loving plants and like composted manures
. Optimal soil pH for tomato plants is 6.0 to 6.8 see
Soil Ph for more
extensive data. Tomatoes respond well to fertilizer , especially phosphorus. Excess
nitrogen fertilizer can result in plants with excessive vine growth but
little fruit production. Apply 2-1/2 to 3 pounds of a complete
fertilizer, such as 5-10-10, 5-20-20, or 8-16-16 per 100 square feet of
garden area. Work the fertilizer into the soil about 2 weeks before
planting. Another side dressing of a nitrogen fertilizer may be
desirable after the first cluster of flowers have set fruit.
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Miracle-Gro Tomato Food
contains the essential
nutrients to produce larger more succulent vegetables. Starts working
instantly for quick, beautiful results. feeds plants through the roots and
leaves.
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Favorite Varieties of Tomatoes
The following are my personal favorites, you of course may prefer to scan
any of the many online
nurseries and seed catalogs. When selecting from online catalogs you
should be familiar with some of the terminology.
"determinates” ripen over 3-4 weeks on bushy vines that usually need no
staking.
“Indeterminate” vines continue to grow and produce fruit all season until
frost. The large vines need support.
Disease resistance codes such as V for Verticillium wilt or T for tobacco
mosaic are useful , see Tomato
Plant diseases section for a more thorough list of codes
Cherry Varieties |
Tomato 'Tamina'
. An early
ripening 'potato leaved' variety with outstanding taste,
particularly when grown outdoors. Produces a huge crop of medium
sized 2.5 oz, round, red fruits, ideal for slicing and adding to
salads. Can also be grown in the greenhouse. |
Sweet Million Hybrid Cherry Tomato
Heavy yields
of 1" red cherry tomatoes |
Bonsai Dwarf Red Cherry Tomato
Abundant flavorful fruit
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Maskotka Tomato
A bushy, dwarf variety, especially
bred for growing in baskets and containers, where stems and fruits
fall gently over the sides. |
Plum/ Pear Varieties |
Giant Valentine Tomato
big heart-shaped semi-pear,
semi-plum variety simply stops you in your tracks. Giant Valentine
tomatoes range from 6 to 10 ounces, depending on whether or not the
plants are staked and pruned. Plants are indeterminate, so it is
best to tie them up to stakes or grow them in cages. Vines that are
pruned produce larger tomatoes, but not as many fruits as unpruned
vines. The fruits ripen from uniform green (no green shoulders) to
deep red, and they ripen all over at the same time, about 73 days
from transplanting. |
Falcorosso Hybrid Tomato
supermarket quality, larger
cherry-sized, plum fruits fruits, with up to 20 produced per truss,
with many trusses per plant. The ideal greenhouse tomato, showing
great resistance to Fusarium, Verticillium Wilt, Cladosporium and
Mosaic Virus. Determinate (bushy) habit, early to ripen.
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Beefy Varieties |
Beef Maestro Tomato
Deep oblate,
extremely large red fruit . Fruits average 14 oz |
Rutgers Heirloom Tomato
Its flavor, both for slicing and cooking, is still unequaled. Red
fruits are slightly flattened. Tall vines, fusarium resistant.
Indeterminate |
Big Beef Tomato
heavy yields of 10-12 oz. Fruits. Large plant that should be staked
or caged. It is an indeterminate and will produce until
frost.
Novelty Varieties |
Lemon Boy Tomato
unusually
colored, eye catching tomatoes with wonderful flavor. The deep globe
fruits average 6.5 ounces, perfect for slicing to reveal the lemon
colored flesh. The plant is tolerant to many disease |
White Oxheart Tomato
pale yellow
strawberry-shaped fruits with a delicious, very smooth flesh. Very
tender. Subtle fruity flavor with a nice tang. Fleshy fruits. Large,
2-m plants with long, drooping leaves. |
Seed & Nursery Catalogs |
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Crop Rotation and Companion
planting in Tomato Plants
Three - Four-year rotations with non-related crops and
using plants grown from disease-free seeds will help control most tomato
diseases. Avoid Eggplants, potatoes, peppers, okra, raspberries, or
strawberries in rotation with tomatoes
Tomatoes and cabbage or cauliflower (The Brassica
Family) go fine together in a salad but are not compatible in a garden
setting if you are planting "Brassica" crops, keep them well separated from
the tomatoes. Try planting Basil, Chives, Lettuce (Not Brassica family) in
between the Tomatoes ...also lots of Marigolds.
Good Companions of
Tomato plants are asparagus, basil, bush bean, carrot, celery, chive,
cucumber, garlic, lettuce, onion, . See
companion planting for further data
Common Tomato
Plant Diseases
Preventive
Maintenance / Effective methods to avoid and control disease in your Garden
A Colour Atlas of Tomato Diseases: Observation, Identification and Control
Uses over 300 high quality color
photographs, explains how to examine and identify diseases of the foliage,
roots, neck, stalk and fruit.
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Fusarium wilt - The first
signs are drooping and yellowing of lower leaves on a
single stem. Earliest symptoms may appear on only one side
of the plant. Yellowing and wilting of the leaves occurs, and
the plants may die. If the stem is cut , the water conductive
plant tissues under the surface are sometimes discolored brown.
Favored by soil temperatures around 80 F, a low soil pH,
Fusarium wilt is more common in southern latitudes.
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Verticillium wilt -resembles Fusarium
wilt, a laboratory diagnosis is usually needed to distinguish
between the two. Verticillium wilt starts with a general or
blotchy yellowing of the lower leaves and a wilting of youngest
shoots in direct sunlight. At first, the wilted shoots may
recover over night. The leaf veins turn brown, followed by
shoots browning and lower leaf drop. Leaves higher up on the
plant turn dull green in color and the edges curl upwards.
Plants are stunted and defoliated with only the growing tips
remaining green. The fruits are small and may
sunscald. The branches
tend to be less erect than those of healthy plants, giving
Verticillium-infected plants a prostrate appearance. When the
stem is cut open, the the water conductive plant tissues
may be brownish near the soil line. |
Tobacco Mosaic- causes leaves to be
mottled light and dark green. The plants are generally stunted
and the leaves rough. The tomatoes do not always show symptoms
but may be reduced in size and ripen unevenly.
Cucumber mosaic , Early symptoms
are yellow, bushy and stunted plants. Later symptoms are similar
to tobacco mosaic except that leaves are frequently elongated,
narrow, and distorted to form a "shoestring" effect.
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Spotted Wilt symptoms vary widely,
The first symptoms are orange flecks or a bronzed appearance of
young leaves. Leaf spots may appear target-like as in early
blight. Older leaves may turn brown, droop and die. Young shoots
may develop dark streaks, progressing to a top dieback and
eventually leading to plant death . Raised yellowish spots
develop on green fruits. As the tomatoes ripen, these spots
become striking with concentric rings of yellow or brown
alternating with green and later pink or red.
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Sunscald develops on the side of fruits suddenly exposed to the direct
sun, first appearing as a light colored spot on green fruits.
This spot develops into a blister, and later becomes sunken and
whitish with a paper-like surface.
Leaf roll develops in rainy
periods. The lower leaves roll upward until the edges touch and
become thick and leathery . Leaf roll is predominant in cool wet
weather, excessive fertilizer, and pruning. It has no serious
effect on plant growth or yield.
Soil rot, is caused by the a
soil-borne fungus and generally occurs during rainy periods. A
soft brown rot develops, usually on the sides of fruits touching
the ground, or where soil is splashed onto them. The spots are
sunken, large, and may have a closely-spaced bulls eye pattern .
Sometimes the tomato cracks open. Staking will reduce soil rot
by keeping fruit away from the ground.
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Bacterial Speck produces tiny brown circular
specks. These specks are slightly raised and may occur on fruit
or leaves. Tissues next to the fruit specks are slow to ripen.
The bacterium is seed-borne. Infection by bacterial speck is
favored by temperatures of 65 to 75 F, dew and high humidity;
disease development is favored by temperatures of 55 to 77 F.
Bacterial Spot, produces circular scabby spots on
immature fruits and on leaves.
Tomatoes as well as Sweet peppers are effected. The bacterium is
seed-borne and is often carried on diseased transplants. It can
also occur in certain weeds . It overwinters in soil and on old
tomato vines and pepper plants. Bacterial spot is favored by
warm temperatures , high humidity, long dew periods, and driving
rain.
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Blossom end rot. this disorder occurs as a slight
discoloration or a severe dark sunken lesion at the blossom end;
it is caused by temporary insufficiencies of water and calcium
and may occur under high temperature conditions when the plants
are rapidly growing. Recommended treatment
Blossom-End Rot Control
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Disease problems
can be greatly Reduced
with a combination of practices that include:
1. ] Purchase vigorous, healthy plants
from a reputable supplier. Tomatoes, being susceptible to
diseases,
viruses and insects, some varieties have
been bred or hybridized to be resistant to certain pests.
Resistance to these pests is usually
listed on the plant label using the following abbreviations:
V = Verticillium Wilt F = Fusarium Wilt FF = Fusarium Wilt race 1 and 2 N = Nematode T = Tobacco Mosaic Virus A = Alternaria (Early Blight) TSW = Tomato Spotted Wilt
Remember that resistance to these problems does not mean
they are 100 % immune,
good cultural practices are still
important.
2.]
Crop Rotation in your garden planting area
3.] Remove and destroy all plant
refuse in the fall and use deep cultivation to bury any
remaining refuse.
4.] Do not place diseased plants in the
compost heap, as this will only serve to carry bacterial or
fungal infestation into the next growing
season.
5.] Avoid over watering . Use surface
watering methods. Do not handle plants when the vines are
wet.
6.] Weeds compete with vegetables for
soil moisture and nutrients and also serve as hosts for
insects
and disease carrying bacteria and fungus.
Control weeds in and around the garden .
7.] Control insect pests such as
aphids, which are known to transmit diseases from
plant to plant.
8.] Use
plastic or
organic mulches to reduce disease and blossom-end rot problems.
9.] Choose a sunny location for
your tomatoes. Leaf disease problems are much less likely
to occur in a
sunny location than in a shady one.
10.] Apply recommended
fungicides according to label directions at the first sign
of leaf spot diseases |
11.] Remove abnormal or unhealthy appearing
plants as soon as they are observed. To reduce the
spread of
suspected diseases wash hands and tools with a mild detergent after
handling suspect plants.
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Common Tomato Plant Pests
Aphids
Worms -
Beet armyworm, Cutworms, Corn Earworm,
Tomato Hornworms, Cabbage looper
Beetles -Colorado
Potato Beetle, Cucumber Beetles, Harlequin Bug
Mites - Tomato Russet Mite
Vegetable
leafminer - Colorless to bright yellow maggot, up to 3 mm long, with
pointed head; makes serpentine mines in leaves; each mine slightly enlarged
at one end
Nematodes - microscopic worms which
live in the soil and feed on the host plants roots preventing the the plants
from taking up the nutrients they need to grow . Some forms of nematodes are
highly beneficial , while others can wreak total destruction . Tomato plant
nematodes are prevalent throughout North America, but they are most damaging
to tomato plants in the Southern regions of the US.
Sharpshooter Natural Insecticide
Citric acid destroys the wax coating of the insect's respiratory system.
When applied directly, the insect suffocates. Sharpshooter is biodegradable.
Persons with known citrus allergies may be affected. Do not spray on red
mature fruits. Effective on most insects including aphids,
beetles, caterpillars, cutworms, earwigs, flies, gnats, lacebugs,
leafhoppers, loopers, mites, moths, snails/slugs, mosquitoes, whiteflies
Hot Pepper Wax
repels bugs from your plants, fruits and flowers. 100% natural spray
uses pepper extract and wax to effectively discourage pests. Helps to reduce
stress on cuttings.
See
Pest
Control
for more extensive data
Contact
Information
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Garden Accessories-High Yield Red Tomato Mulch
Grow
Bigger Tomatoes and More of Them Without Ever Weeding. Red plastic
mulch increases fruit size and yields.
The benefits of mulching fabric are well
known you can keep weeds down, conserve water, and prevent erosion
of nutrients. But new research has found that if your mulch is a
bright, reflective red, you get even more benefits, especially with
tomatoes.
The red color stimulates stem strength and
fruit production in tomatoes by simulating the conditions of
overcrowding. Your plants not only produce more heavily, but they
get stockier to be able to support that additional bounty.
USDA tests show that plants using Tomato Mulch bore tomatoes
weighing an average of 46 percent more than others.
The sheet of mulch is 18 inches wide and 25 feet
long enough to cover an average row of 10 tomato plants. Set the
mulch on either side of the stems, bringing it together so that
there is no gap of earth between the two sheets.
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