Planting
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Watermelon is very
susceptible to frost damage, it requires a long growing
season with relatively high temperatures. Daytime temperatures
between 70 and 80 degrees F and nighttime temperatures between
65 and 70 degrees F are ideal. Select a
site with Full Sun , no shade, or minimal shade.
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Gardeners in northern
areas should choose early varieties and use transplants.
Mulching also promotes earliness by warming the soil
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Plant after the soil is warm and when all danger of frost is
past. Watermelons grow best on a sandy loam soil, although
yields on clay soils can be increased significantly by mulching
raised planting rows. As watermelon require a relatively long/warm
growing season it is advisable to start your seedlings indoors,
and transplant into your garden when frost danger has
disappeared. Start the seeds inside
3 weeks before they are to be set out in the garden. Plant 2 or
3 seeds in peat pellets,
peat pots or cell packs
and thin to the
best one or two plants.
Transplanted watermelons will mature 10 to
12 days earlier than plants that are direct-seeded. Use
of seedless varieties, is recommended if you are not seed
saving The seed-coat of seedless varieties adheres tightly
to the cotyledons, so place seeds with the point up when
starting transplants.
Watering
Watering is critical in growing watermelons.
The key time to
water is from the time the fruit begins to form until it is
half-grown. Excessive watering too close to harvesting of
watermelon will reduce
the sugar content and cause the fruit to have hollow centers.
Inexpensive Water timer systems
are available.
Fertilizing
When setting out
transplants, apply a common starter solution. For sandy loam soils or coarser
soils apply
fertilizer based on soil tests {See
Soil pH} when
the watermelon vines begin to spread about.
If heavy rainfall occurs early in the season apply an
extra side dressing.
Varieties
There are dozens of varieties of Melons both
heirloom and hybrid
Ambrosia Melons
, Amish Melons, Amur
Melons, Anne Arundel Melons, Densuke Melons, Ein Dor Melons,
Fastbreak Melons, Osage Melons, Planter's Jumbo Melons, Summer
Melons, Tokyo King Melons, Vert Grimpant Melons, Babáco Melons,
Banana Melons, Blue Ridge Melons, Bolero Melons, Butterscotch
Melons, Cassabanana Melons, Emerald Gem Melons, Emerald Jewel
Melons, Emerald Pearl Melons, Honeyball Melons, Horned Melons,
Kharbuza Melons,
Lambkin Melon
, Pineapple Melons, Sharlyn Melons, Sprite Melons,
Winter Melons
, Yellow Melons, Yubari Melons ....
The following are my personal favorites, you of course may prefer to scan
any of the many online
nurseries and seed catalogs.
Standard Varieties |
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Novelty Varieties |
Sugar Baby Watermelon
Sweet, fine-textured, medium-red flesh. The round, 12 lb., dark
green skinned melons grow 8 in. across. |
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'Yellow Baby' Watermelon
Rated best in taste tests, Naturally
self-pollinating and almost entirely seedless. Tolerates cooler
weather. |
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Black Diamond Watermelon
Produces 40
to 75 lb watermelons if properly cared for. It has very flavorful
bright red flesh. Tough rind helps fruit from bruising. |
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Moon & Stars Watermelon
yellow dots on black skin red fruit. Resembles a very
large Eggplant with yellow dots. |
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'Charleston Gray' Watermelon
This old
favorite produces fruits up to 2 feet long and weigh up to 16kg
(35lbs). Gray-green rind with succulent, crisp, red, fiberless
flesh. Resistant to fusarium wilt and anthracnose. |
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Densuke Melons
- Actually this will be my first
season attempting to grow this melon it is also known as
Hokkaido Black .
A
Japanese man recently bought one at Auction for $6100 |
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Mexican Miniature Watermelon
Not a true Watermelon, more closely
related to cucumbers but have the appearance of miniature
watermelons. A sweet cucumber flavor, contrasted by a mild sour pickle taste
- bizarre but good . |
Seed & Nursery Catalogs |
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Diseases
Common to Watermelon
Fusarium wilt
Watermelons is attacked by Fusarium
wilt at all stages of development. Seeds may decay in
the soil. Seedlings wilt collapse and die before or
after emergence. Older plants wilt, wither, and die any
time during the growing season. If melons do form,
it is generally small and unpalatable.
Wilting of runners usually progresses
slowly, showing initially during the midday heat . Such
plants recover at night, but after a few days they wilt
permanently and die. Favored by soil temperatures around
80 F, a low soil pH, Fusarium wilt is more common in
southern latitudes.
See :
UC Pest Management Guidelines Fusarium Wilt (Watermelon)
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Anthracnose
Very destructive disease of
watermelons and other curcubits. Anthracnose attacks all above-ground parts of the plant. Watermelon
can be infected at any stage of development, however,
disease symptoms are first noticed as round to angular
reddish brown spots on older leaves. Spots may later
dry, turn almost black and tear out, giving a leaf a
ragged appearance. Often the leaves at the center of the
plant are killed first, leaving the stem and a portion
of the runners bare.
See Also:
NC State Watermelon Disease Handbook
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Gummy Stem Blight
Causes damping off, crown rot, leaf
spot, stem canker, and fruit rot of watermelons. Lesions
on the cotyledons and leaves are round or irregular and
brown in color. Lesions on the crown and stem are brown
and turn white as they age. Early infection usually
comes from diseased seeds.
As the season advances, gummy stem
blight attacks vines causing elongated, water soaked
areas that become light brown to gray. Cankers are most
common near the crown of the plant. Gum oozes from the
stem cracks, and runners usually die one at a time.
Gummy Stem Blight generally does not cause fruit rot in
watermelons.
See Also:
Gummy Stem Blight and Phoma Blight on Cucurbits
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Blossom End Rot
can be caused by a calcium
deficiency and occurs frequently on acid soils or during
stress periods on soils with seemingly sufficient
calcium.
Recommended treatment
Blossom-End Rot Control
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Watermelon mosaic virus
Caused by two distinct viruses
referred
to as Watermelon Mosaic Number I and Watermelon Mosaic
Number II [How clever!]. The most common symptom is
mottling of the leaf, some plants are stunted with
abnormally shaped leaves. The diseases is usually
spread by
aphids which can spread through an entire planting
during the growing season.
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Common
Pests
Aphids
Worms -
wireworms, cutworms, and pickle worms
Beetles -Cucumber
Beetles
Mites - red spider mites
Vegetable
leafminer - Colorless to bright yellow maggot, up to 3 mm long, with
pointed head; makes serpentine mines in leaves; each mine slightly enlarged
at one end
Nematodes - microscopic worms which
live in the soil and feed on the host plants roots preventing the the plants
from taking up the nutrients they need to grow . Some forms of nematodes are
highly beneficial , while others can wreak total destruction . Tomato plant
nematodes are prevalent throughout North America, but they are most damaging
to tomato plants in the Southern regions of the US.
Sharpshooter Natural Insecticide
Citric acid destroys the wax coating of the insect's respiratory system.
When applied directly, the insect suffocates. Sharpshooter is biodegradable.
Persons with known citrus allergies may be affected. Do not spray on red
mature fruits. Effective on most insects including aphids, beetles,
caterpillars, cutworms, earwigs, flies, gnats, lacebugs, leafhoppers,
loopers, mites, moths, snails/slugs, mosquitoes, whiteflies
Hot Pepper Wax
repels bugs from your plants, fruits and flowers. 100% natural spray
uses pepper extract and wax to effectively discourage pests. Helps to reduce
stress on cuttings.
See
Pest Control for more extensive data
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Weed Control
Weed control in Watermelon is
critical primarily in the watermelon plants early early stages. Once
the plant is healthy and established it should be dominating the
area . Cultivate shallowly near roots , very shallow.
See:
Weeds: Control Without Poisons
Harvesting
Watermelon
Determining optimum maturity of a watermelon can
be difficult Many home gardeners experience difficulty in determining when
watermelons are ripe. Use a combination of the following indicators: (1)
light green, curly tendrils on the stem near the point of attachment of
the melon usually turn brown and dry; (2) the surface color of the fruit
turns dull; (3) the skin becomes resistant to penetration by the
thumbnail and is rough to the touch; and (4) the bottom of the melon
(where it lies on the soil) turns from light green to a yellowish color.
These indicators for choosing a ripe watermelon are much more reliable
than "thumping" the melon with a knuckle. Many watermelons do not emit
the proverbial "dull thud" when ripe. For these, the dull thud may
indicate an over-ripe, mushy melon.
Harvest watermelons when: the stem starts to shrivel, the underside
yellows and you when you knock the melon you get a dull, hollow sound -
sometimes.
References
The Organic Home Garden: How to Grow Fruits and Vegetables Naturally
Garden Wisdom: Traditional Tips for Making Your Garden Grow
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