Quilts from the New York Sewer!

American Flag Quilt

This quilt was made according to the specifications dictated by the government for making a flag, so it is politically correct!! I did fudge the measurements just a bit, so the quilt was a little easier to piece, but I am talking about an eighth of an inch! So it is not too bad.

These dimensions are for a twin quilt, but due to the proportions of the American Flag (the length is nearly twice the width), the quilt is extra long! This is great for college dorm beds, or just to have extra material to tuck over the pillow!! If you want to make a twin quilt, skip the next section and just use my measurements.

Determining a custom size for your quilt

To change the size of the quilt to suit your needs, follow these steps and calculations. First, decide on a rough bed or quilt size - take bed measurements if necessary, taking into account what over hang you would like. Also think about what size battings are available. With this quilt, you will probably have to piece the batting to get the extra length, so keep that in mind as you fine-tune your measurements. Determine the width of the quilt - this is your starting point, and all other dimensions are dependent on it.

Draw yourself a diagram using these dimensions so you don't get them all confused! These measurements are the finished sizes. You will add seam allowances before cutting fabric.

Here is my diagram for a twin flag quilt, which started with a width of 68.25 inches. Initially I used a width of 68 inches, but when I got to the width of each stripe, I got a measurement of 5.23, and I rounded this up to 5.25 to make things easier. Then I multiplied 5.25 x 13 to get 68.25. I then quickly redid my measurements with a starting dimension of 68.25. I also changed the decimals to fractions so they are more sewer-friendly.

Here is a pattern for the star that fits the dimensions for this quilt. Click the image to open the image, then print. It has a diameter of 4.2 inches. Please make sure when you print it out that it still measures a scant 4 1/4 inches, because some printers have different dpi settings. Keep in mind that I did not applique stars onto my blue field, I just used starr-y fabric. You can do either.

If you like traditional applique, just print this out, cut it out, add a seam allowance before cutting out the fabric, and applique in place. Hand or machine applique, whichever you prefer. Stars are a great hand applique primer, you will get very good at inside and outside points!

Another method of applique is to cut out the stars with no seam allowance, and use a paper-backed fusible web to fuse them onto the blue field. I would recommend stitching the fused stars down with a close zig zag or blanket stitch to prevent fraying in the wash.

Step by Step Construction

This really is an easy quilt to piece, especially if you use a starr-y fabric for the blue field. The hardest part is determining the dimensions, which we've already covered! The rest is a breeze. Let's go!

Blue Field

The Blue field (called the "Union") is a 36 3/4" x 51 7/8" rectangle. Do one of the following:

Short Stripes

Long Stripes

Construct the flag

Now your top is complete! It should measure 68 3/4" by 130 1/8"

Layering, Basting, Quilting, Binding

Backing

Piece together a backing piece for the quilt. Use either plain old white, or maybe a patriotic print. Avoid using a sheet unless you are machine quilting, and even then it is just nicer to use a comparable quality fabric. It is easier to quilt even by machine. The backing should be at least 4 inches larger then the top - so about 72" by 134".

Batting

Here is a quick lesson on battings. Batting is the stuffing of the quilt, it can be cotton, polyester, wool, silk, and even a blend - most often poly-cotton. I have a collection of battings, including a package of wool batting which I have not used yet. I will tell you about what I have used. Cotton is traditional, and when washed, will shrink and give a tradtional look. Many cotton battings need to be closely quilted (1/4 inch grid), and are hard to hand quilt. If you are machine quilting, then it is fine! It is actually better, because the polyester battings slip around while you are sewing. Some newer cotton battings do not need to be so closely quilted, which is nice when you make a lot of quilts. Some cotton battings I have tried are pretty good for hand quilting. Hobbs Heirloom Cotton is one of them. Warm and Natural is a cotton or cotton blend type of batting that is great for machine quilting. The package suggests it can be quilted 10 inches apart, but what they mean is that if quilted with a 10 inch grid, the batting will not ball up and mush around. BUT the weight of the quilt will eventually pop those stitches, so really any batting should be quilted at about 4 or 5 inches apart, if the quilt is to be washed. That's not bad at all though. Warm and Natural is sold at most Joann's Craft stores by the yard, on a roll, in natural or white. It is 90 inches wide. It is what I recommend for machine quilting.

Polyester battings are puffier, hotter (it does not breath like cotton) and will not shrink the quilt, so the design will stay intact more, if that is what you wish. They are easier to hand quilt, and there are many weights and brands. I like Fairfield Traditional and Mountain Mist Quilt light. The thicker battings are too tough to quilt, so tie them. Fairfield extra loft is great for tying a quilt. In general, I stay away from no-name polyester battings by-the-yard. They are usually too thick to quilt anyway.

The Batting should also be 4 inches larger than the quilt top. You will most likely have to piece the batting - simply butt the edges up against eachother and stitch big cross stitches to attach the pieces. A twin batting is usually 72" x 90", so you will need to add 72 x 44 inches. you can buy another package of twin batting, it is usually pretty inexpensive for that size. Or, if you buy 90" batting by-the-yard, get 3 3/4 yards, this will give you a 90" x 135" piece. Trim the 90 inch side down to 72 inches. Read instructions concerning pre-washing battings. Some recommend it, some leave it up to you, depending on how you want the finished quilt to look. (shrinkage, etc) Let a cotton batting "rest" a day before using it by laying it flat on a bed or floor overnight. Or, put a polyester batting in a dryer, at no-heat setting for 10 minutes.

Layering & Basting for Quilting

Skip ahead to tying if you want to tie this quilt!

Lay the Backing, wrong side up, on a carpeted floor. Tape it down at the corners, so it is nicely taut, no wrinkles. Place the batting on top. Lay the pieced quilt top, right side up, on top of the batting. Smooth it out gently so that it is nice and flat and smooth. For machine quilting, baste with safety pins, every 4 inches. For hand quilting, baste with a needle and thread, big stitches in a 4 inch grid.

Fold and roll the backing to the front and baste in place, enveloping the batting.

Quilting

I machine quilted this quilt. You will want to use a walking foot if possible. Fold up the quilt, toss it overyour shoulder, and feed it throught the machine. Flatten out the material around where you are quilting, removing safety pins that are in the way, and making sure that you don't quilt in any tucks, in the front or the back. If you basted well, this should not happen much.

To hand quilt, I use a hoop or frame. I use a number 10 between needle and a thimble, and I use a rocking stitch, which is like a running stitch. I hope to have a page about hand quilting soon, but for now you will have to just give it a try or find a booklet, or take a class!

Quilt in the ditch for all seams - around the blue field and between each stripe. I machine quilted wavy lines along each stripe and through the starry blue field. You may want to quilt around each star, whether it is the starry fabric or appliqued stars.

Binding

The perimeter of the quilt is about 400 inches. Cut 11 cross-wise grain strips, 2 1/2 inches wide. Seam these together using a diagonal seam:
Layer and sew:
Trim to 1/4" and press open:

Fold the strip in half lengthwise and press. It is now 1 1/4" wide. Start sewing in the middle of a side, not at a corner. Align the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt top. Sew the binding to the quilt through all layers, with a 1/4" seam allowance.
Here is how to miter the corners (These pictures are not great but give it a try!):

Stop sewing 1/4" away from the corner. (That is the binding hanging loose.)

Fold back and up, at a 45 degree angle.

Fold the binding back down, straight down the next side. The top edge is even with the quilt top. Continue sewing the next side.

Continue on, mitering all 4 corners. Now trim away the backing and batting. leave just a bit so that the binding has something to hug.

Fold it around to the back, the miters should fold nicely. Blind stitch by hand or top stitch by machine.

Tying

You can tie this quilt instead of quilting it. Any batting would do, but you can use a big puffy high-loft polyester batting if you wish! You can layer and baste it as for quilting, and then tie it every 3-4 inches with yarn or crochet cotton, using a doll needle or big darning needle. Then bind the quilt.

For a super-fast quilt, you could just layer it as follows: backing and batting right sides together, and then the batting. Sew along 3 sides. Then, flip it around so that it is right. Fold the remaining side in and sew closed. What I did on this quilt was to sew a strip of tough canvas to the side that would string to a flag pole. You could do that with the 4th side as well. It was just kind of neat to do that, to make it more flag-like. Anyway, then tie the quilt, with yarn or crochet cotton, using a doll needle or big darning needle. Tie every 3 to 4 inches all over the quilt top.

Signing

Don't forget to sign your quilt! Use a quilt label, or a permanent marker, especially for quilts. It might be a good idea to stitch the label onto the backing before you quilt it. Uh,oh! I hope you read through these instructions first! ;)