HALLOWEEN HALL
MAZE WALLS
These are the walls of my haunted walk. I needed something to withstand the winds we get here but still be light enough to store and setup by myself. You can make these as long as you like and you can add walls to parts that are all ready up to divide things into different
sections. It is a cheap system to use and I've been using the same walls for over 5 yearsand I just add more as I need them. It is going to leave 1 1/2" square holes in your lawn where the stakes go but it's a small price to pay for inexpensive walls.
To start with I use an 8 foot long 2x2 and cut off 2 feet to use as a stake at the bottom. I
pre drill 3- 3/16" holes into the top 1 foot of the stake and cut the bottom into a point.
You will use the rest of the 2x2 for the upright and attach the plastic to it with some 1/4"
slats that I cut from scrap plywood. Cut these slats 1 1/4" wide and about 3 feet long.
      The plastic I use is black and comes in a roll that's 100 feet long and 20 feet wide. I un-roll
this in the yard (do it in the morning when there is no wind) and cut it length wise into 3
pieces, they end up being about 6 foot 6 inches high and 100 feet long these are your wall
sections. Menards by us sells this for around $48.00 and it's 4.5 mills thick. This has
worked fine for me but if you want stronger walls go with a higher thickness of plastic. So
for around $100.00 you can have 300 feet of wall that turns out to be 33 cents a foot and
it's re-usable!
     To erect the walls I start at one end and pound a stake into the ground about a foot deep.
Then screw the upright to the stake through the pre drilled holes you made before with 2
1/2" drywall screws. Move down about 6 feet and do the same thing, continue on until
you have run done. Now take the plastic sheet you cut and starting with the first upright place
the 1/4" slatover the plastic sheet and screw it down using 1" drywall screws. I use about 4 per slat
and 2 slats per upright.

Now go onto the next one and repeat the same thing and work your way down the line
until your at the end. I try and get as long a run as I can before I cut the end off. Now go
back and use a box cutter to cut the half moon openings in the plastic to let the air flow
through when the wind blows. It works best if you have them in the pattern that's on the
drawing I found this out by trial and error so you don't have to. Don't cut them too close
to the tops or bottoms or by the uprights as they tend to tear out if you get too strong a
blast of wind. I finish the uprights and stakes with an exterior black paint the cheaper the
better!

To connect different wall sections together instead of a starter upright just clamp onto an
upright that's there already and finish your run. After you have all your walls done and it's
time for you take them down I just pull them out of the ground and lay it on the ground
and roll the sections up. To set it up the next year just roll it back out remove the stakes
on the bottom, pound them in and re-attach the uprights
These can also make covered hallways by attaching a cross piece on two uprights with 1
foot long extensions on the ends, then covered with more plastic using the 1/4" slats to
secure it to the cross piece.


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