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| Iguana Care Sheet |
| Copyright © 20010-2003The Iguana Spot All Rights Reserved |
| Iguanas are not easy to care for pets, are expensive to maintain and pose certain health and safety risks to children! This care sheet provides basic information but not all the information you will need to properly care for an iguana. |
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| Common Names: Green Iguana, Giant Green Iguana, Common Iguana, Blue Diamond Iguana Scientific Name: Iguana iguana Size: Adults, both male and female can grow up to 6-7' in total length Temperament: Varies, while most iguanas are extremely tame, some will remain shy and some will be extremely aggressive. Male iguanas can never be housed together. Females have been housed together with mixed results Life Span: If cared for properly iguanas can live up to twenty years. If these animals are not provided with proper nutrition, lighting, heat and humidity, assorted medical problems will arise which can be quite costly. |
| Sexing: Adult males and females (over the age of 2) can be sexed visually by viewing the femoral pores on the hind legs as well as by face shape. The male of the species is usually identified as having large jowls. Probing can be done by a QUALIFIED veterinarian at almost any age. This is a photograph of a juvenile iguana, much too young to sex without the assistance of a qualified veterinarian. |
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| Animal Protein -A Word of Caution There is much debate when it comes to the discussion of feeding animal protein to iguanas. To date, no credible source in the iguana community has been able to provide concrete information that the consumption of animal protein is necessary for the captive iguana to thrive. It is a fact that the consumption of animal protein has lead to and caused severe medical problems in these animals such as liver and kidney damage. It is for this reason that The Iguana Spot does not reccomend the feeding of animal protein to captive iguanas nor do we feed animal protein to any of our animals. While the argument can be and has been made that in certain quantities animal protein is not harmful to iguanas, no one credible source has been able to provide information relating to just exactly what these quantities are. While once again I will point out that by no means are we experts in the field of iguana care, we feel that it is better to err on the side of caution and refrain from and reccomend that everyone refrain from, feeding animal protein to their iguana. |
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| Feeding: All iguanas, regardless of age, size or sex, should be offered fresh food on a daily basis in the following percentages: How To Feed: All foods should be washed or peeled, seeded and shredded into managable pieces. Greens should be destemmed, washed and torn into managable pieces for smaller iguanas -we have noticed that larger iguanas seem to enjoy ripping the leaves from the stems themselves Leafy greens 40-50% collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens (w/flowers), escarole and watercress, flat parsley, cilantro, etc. Other Vegetables 40-45% orange-fleshed squash (i.e.-butternut, kaboucha, etc.), green beans, peas, parsnip, sweet potato, yellow squash, asparagus, okra, bell pepper, zucchini, wax beans, yucca, celery root, etc. Fruits and Flowers 10-15% Figs, assorted berries, grapes, apples, peaches, pears, assorted melons, papaya, tomatoes, cactus paddles, dried fruits, berries and flower petals from safe plants. Bananas, oranges and other members of the citrus family may be offered as occasional treats. |
| Water: All iguanas, regardless of age or size should be provided with fresh water daily as most iguanas defecate in their water. The largest possible container should be used. Enclosures should be misted at least once daily, several times is better, to promote humidity. Bathing your iguana several times a week in a tub of warm (85*) water is highly recommended for good hygiene, as well as providing comfort during shedding. Bath time is also a source of exercise, time to socialize and provides more access to fresh, clean drinking water. Housing: Unless you plan on purchasing a new enclosure every two months, a 55 gallon aquarium style enclosure is the smallest you should purchase for a hatchling or juvenile. A 55 gallon enclosure will last approximately 1 (one) year or until the iguana is approximately 2 (two) feet in total length. Adults require a much larger (3'x6'x6' is the smallest recommended) enclosure as iguanas are aboral (tree climbers) by nature, therefor taller is always better! Use newspaper or carpet for substrate. Provide multiple temperatures within the tank and a basking area no more than 16 inches from the UV source (see lighting). Don't' forget to add climbing areas! Temperatures and Humidity: The ambient temperature in the enclosure should be a constant 85* with a 90-95* basking spot (see lighting). Misting is recommended several times daily (minimum once) to maintain a 70-90% humidity reading as iguanas are TROPICAL ANIMALS. |
| Lighting: Exposure to unfiltered, natural sunlight is best for allowing an iguana's body to produce the vital elements it needs to thrive. Because this is not possible to provide 365 days a year in areas of the country such as New England, you will need to provide your iguana with a UVA/UVB lighting source such as the Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0, the Zoo Med Iguana light or a mercury vapor bulb. While there are other bulbs available on the market, these are currently the only three with any type of tested documentation to prove essential UV output..In addition to the UV source you will need to provide a full spectrum / incandescent basking light (unless you choose to use the mercury vapor bulb) and a night time heat lamp. Iguanas require a 12/12, day/night cycle so make sure that the light gets turned off at night so your iguana can sleep. Heating: Iguanas require a minimum body temperature of 85* to properly digest their food. Incandescent light bulbs with reflectors can provide much of this heat. If needed CHEs (Ceramic Heat Emitter) can be used. As CHEs present certain major safety issues for you and your iguana, please follow all manufacturers directions on the packaging.A hot rock is not only USELESS to an iguana but actually DANGEROUS and will cause thermal burns. Do not use a hot rock with an iguana. A human heating pad set on low under a blanket will work much better if you feel that it is needed. Final Advice: Iguanas are not easy to care for as pets, are expensive to properly maintain and pose certain health and safety risks to humans, especially children.While this care sheet was designed to get you started, it is NOT all the informationyou will need to properly care for and help your iguana thrive. For more information, please read/view the following information: "Anna My Green Friend" by David Krughoff http://www.myiguana.com "Green Iguana: The Ultimate Owner's Manual" by James W. Hatfield III http://www.iguana.com |
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