Like so many other areas of iguana care, heating and lighting have MANY different variables. There are many different areas in which many differing opinions exist. Please keep in mind that these are OUR opinions, some of which are based in fact. Over the years this is what we have found to be true, useful, dangerous, good and bad in the world of iguana care information.
Iguanas need heat in order to remain healthy.
Being cold-blooded, iguanas need to absorb their body heat from external sources. In the wild, this would be accomplished by basking under the sun somewhere. In captivity, they need to be provided with both a general heat source as well as a basking heat source. The reason for the general source is so that the ambiant air temperature around them does not ever fall below 70*. Much more than that and serious health risks begin to come into play.
The basking source is needed for several reasons. One is simply if the iguana needs to warm up. After all, it's very difficult to find longjohns that don't clash with green or orange skin and without opposable thumbs they can't put them on anyway. The second reason is that they need to have an average body temp of 80-85*. This is essential to normal functioning as well as digestion. Without these temperatures iguanas cannot digest food well and it will either be processd poorly, thereby wasting much nutritional value, or there is the risk of food actually rotting in the ig's stomach which can cause a whole set of seperate problems.
Iguana evolution dictates that the majority of their heat absorption should come from above. THIS MEANS NO HEAT ROCKS. For those of you who are fans of Adam Sandler, heat rocks, much like fooseball, "..are the devil !!!" Heat rocks are most definitely NOT recommended for ANY reptile for several reasons. Heat rocks are notorious for developing "hot spots" on them i.e., specific areas of the rock can become "super hot". Whether or not they are used as a sole heating source, the iguana, if trying to warm itself, will remain on the rock until it senses that it is warm enough. Iguana skin/scale don't have the same nerve bundles as human skin. Therefor, they don't feel things immediately on the surface. If a heat rock develops hot spots (and it will develop hot spots) the iguana runs the serious risk of getting what is known as a "thermal burn" from sitting on the rock for too long.
A second, and possibly even better argument for not using heat rocks is that they HAVE been known to be the cause of fires both small and large. If you still insist on using a hot rock, despite all the reasons we and others have given you not to, please follow ALL safety guidlines and purchase a temperature controller designed to work with hot rocks. NEVER place a hot rock directly beneath any basking lights or ceramic heat emitters.
There is a difference between heat and light!
Don't be fooled by basking lights that are labled "full spectrum" or say "contains elements to emulate natural sunlight". Unless the light bulb you purchased is labled "UVB", it is not going to provide the essential elments an iguana needs. As of this date (02/01) there is only one combination light on the market and that is the ActiveUV bulb. Because these bulbs throw massive amounts of heat, even the manufacturer states that novice herpetologists and those new to the world of keeping reptiles and lizards be very cautious when using them. There are specific enclosure measurements that must be followed if using these bulbs.
The most highly recommended and widely accepted UV sources on the market today are the ZooMed Reptisun 5.0 and the ZooMed Iguana Light, these are the SAME EXACT bulbs in different packaging. These bulbs must be no more than 18 inches from the animal and need to be replaced every 6 months. Keep in mind that the last inch on each end of the bulb does not produce and UV.
Ceramic Heat Emitters Vs. Radiant Heat Panels
For years one of the most popular heat sources available were ceramic heat emitters or CHE's. While it is true that they do work well, they also come with serious safety hazzards that can cause burns to your animal or possibly evencause a major fire in your home. We here at The Iguana Spot were introduced to radiant heat panels in October of 2000 as a safer alternative than a CHE. While it is true that the initial investment for one of these panels is more costly that a single CHE (assuming you only need to purchase one CHE) the money you will save in the long run and the peace of mind you will have is well worth the investment.
Radiant heat panels have several "built in" safety features, such as an internal shutoff should anything go wrong with the panel. CHEs have no self contained safety features. They must be governed by an external source in order to be made safe. The surface temperature of a radiant heat panel does not get blisteringly hot. In fact, the approximate operating surface temperature of a panel is 130*. This is a stark contrast to the reported surface temperatures of CHE's which can reach excesses of 400*. Best of all, because a panel can be solidly attached to a wall or ceiling, there is not chance of an iguana knocking them over and starting a fire.
Green Iguanas are TROPICAL animals
Therefor, they prefer higher humidity levels than those normally found in the human home. Generally speaking, green igs prefer to be kept between 65 and 90% humidity. Much more than that and you either develop sudden thunderclouds over their enclosure when you open it or the igs start looking for scuba gear and jet skis. Green igs ARE very adaptable and can survive humidity levels below this recommendation however, if subjected to low humidity levels for extended periods of time they could possibly begin to let you know by holding their front claws to their necks, in effect giving the international sign for " Hey, I'm choking here !" In all seriousness, keeping the humidity levels accurate not only keeps them comfortable but also helps prevent dehydration. Dehydration in an iguana is not pretty and, in fact, can lead to severe health complications. More on that in our "Medical" section.
One thing to bear in mind is that if the room in which you house your iguana is drier than the enclosure there will be a constant battle. The room will inevitably steal the moisture from the enclosure if it is not suitably sealed and properly ventilated. To combat this you may want to try placing a humidifier in the room to raise the ambient humidity levels all around, thereby making it easier to hold the humidity levels that iguanas prefer. Coincidently, green iguanas also seem to prefer banana, collard and butternut daqueris and Tito Puente on lazy Sunday afternoons by the lagoon.
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