WHICH FABRIC?

• Before you start shopping, look through magazines and stores looking for items similar to what you are going to make. What fabrics did they use? What colors? Did they use any trims? You can learn a lot by studying their choices.
• Look for sample garments/projects already made at the fabric store. Did you like the item? If so, you can purchase that fabric or something similar.
• What does the pattern suggest? Notice the drawings on the front of the pattern envelope. What fabrics did they use?
• Be sure to check the back of the pattern envelope for a list of suitable fabric types. You may really like a drapey rayon you found in the perfect print, but does the pattern suggest something more substantial?
• Does the pattern state that certain fabric types are not recommended? Plaids, stripes and obvious diagonals are usually the ones listed. You will have nothing but trouble if you do not follow the pattern designers advice.
• Does your pattern specify a knit? If so, I do not recommend using a woven - although in some instances it can be done. Knit garments are cut smaller because of the stretch, allowing the garment to fit more comfortably. Make sure your knit has the right amount of stretch for your pattern by checking the fabric against the knit guage printed on the pattern envelope.
• What is the style of the garment/project you are making? Is it casual or dressy? Tailored or frilly? The fabric should reflect the mood of the garment.
• Will the fabric flatter you? If it's for a home dec project or a craft, will the fabric work with your decor? What are your colors? Do they compliment your skin tone? Smooth, lightweight fabrics with a matte finish have a slimming effect and a clean look. Shiny fabrics like satin and bulky fabrics can enlarge your appearance. Large scale prints will make you (and your home furnishings) look bigger than small prints will. Before buying fabric for a garment, drape a length over your body in front of a mirror. How does it look?
• Is the fabric good quality? Check for: a firm, uniform weave with no unusually thick or thin places. On grain weave, with yarns at right angles to one another. Even dye color with no fading or cracking. No obvious runs or flaws.
• Should you buy an expensive fabric or a less costly substitute? Does your project warrant the more expensive fabric? Use this equation to determine the true cost of your sewing project:
  Cost divided by Number of wearings per year or times used equals True Cost
• Know your sewing skill level and your time limitations. Certain fabrics require more effort than others. Slippery fabrics, fabrics that must be matched and very bulky fabrics might be very nice for your project, but have you had enough experience handling these or have the time to deal with them?

HOW MUCH FABRIC?

• Check the yardage chart on the back of the pattern envelope. It will show you the yardage for each item view for each of the different sizes, for one or more fabric widths and for "with nap" or "without nap" layouts.
• Decide... Which view do you want to make? What size will you make?
• How wide is your fabric? A narrower fabric will take more yardage than a wider one. If your fabric width is not listed on the chart, ask a salesperson for a yardage conversion chart. Yardage conversion charts are also in the back of pattern catalogs.
• Does your fabric have a nap or one way design? If so, you will need to use a "with nap" layout which may add to the yardage that you need.
• Is your fabric a plaid, stripe, check or print that must be matched at seams when you sew? If so, buy at least one extra repeat for each yard of fabric called for on the yardage chart.
• Will your fabric shrink? Be sure to buy enough yardage to allow for preshrinking your fabric. This will vary according to the fabric content. I usually buy 1/8 yard extra per yard purchased for cotton. (If you have a dry clean only fabric, take it to your local cleaner and ask if they will steam it for you. For many fabrics this should be sufficient to shrink it.)

FABRIC CARE

• Be sure to check the end of the fabric bolt for fiber content and care instructions. (A lot of times I have forgotten to do this or been in too much of a hurry and regretted it later). Is the fabric washable or dry-cleanable? Has it been preshrunk? (Not likely). Does it have a "finish" on it? What iron temperature should you use?

LINING

• Check your pattern to see if you need a lining and how much fabric it will require. (You may decide to add lining even if the pattern does not call for it).
• Choose a lining fabric that is compatible with the fashion fabric in weight, color and care requirements.
• What is the purpose of the lining? Do you want it to be: 1)Opaque, to hide inner construction details and prevent "show-through?" 2)Smooth, to make garments easy to get on and off? 3)Durable, to resist abrasion? 4)Quilted or thermal backed, to add warmth to winter coats or draperies?

I hope this answers any questions you may have about deciding on the right fabric. If you have any questions, feel free to email me - I'll try to get back to you within a few days of your email.