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REAR TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION AND INSTALLATION |
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I have the 1993 Kawasaki Vulcan 88 VN1500-A7, I'd assume that they are all basically the same but you never know. The first thing that I did was to determine which relocation kit I liked more. I ordered two (2) kits (see names below) since they were both inexpensive. I ordered the Cobra relocation kit as well. The Cobra relocation kit is a misnomer though, as Cobra's kit does not really relocate the signals. It just shortens the black stalk that each turn signal sits on. I am glad that I did order the Cobra kit because I found that I really like what the cobra kit did for the look. It brought the turn signals right up close to the relocation brackets on my license plate frame for a close cut factory look. At the same time, I buried the turn signal wires under the fender for a cleaner look. So here's what I did: Parts ordered: Cobra Rear Turn Signal Relocation Kit # 50-2032 From Dennis Kirk $18.99 Universal Relocation Kit from Bikemaster through RKA-luggage $5.95 Turn signal relocation kit from Motorcycle Enterprises through RKA-luggage $10.00 (These "L" brackets can no longer be found on the Internet, but are relatively easy to fabricate yourself) As it turned out I liked the Motorcycle Enterprises kit better since it had two brackets that go on either side of the license plate, each made to support a rear turn signal. I did not use the $5.95 Bikemaster kit, which is a bracket that's attached behind the license plate holder, but it was nice to have the option in hand. I removed the drivers and passenger seats, and luggage rack as well as the side rails. The turn signals are attached to the side rails so I decided to cut the wires coming out of the side rails about 1 to 2 inches from the end of the turn signal stalk to give myself enough wire to later reconnect the turn signals. I left the wires coming out of the side of the rear fender so that I could solder additional wire on to them. My plan was to run the turn signal wires under the rear fender (out of sight) along side the existing rear taillight wires and back up through new holes I'd drill in the fender and through the license plat bracket. First, I soldered about 1 and 1/2 feet of extra wire to the wire sets on the right and left sides of the bike. It's always easier to shorten the extra long wires than to have to lengthen them (again) later. Once I finished this, I taped up the solders really well, and pulled the wires back in through the side of the fender and down under the rear fender. Using wire ties I secured the newly lengthened wires along side the existing brake light harness. (You can also buy a plastic jacketing material in different diameters that you can run the wires through to give the wires more protection. You can also use wire shrink-wrap around the taped solders.) After removing the license plate bracket from the fender, I drilled a hole just about the center of the bracket between the two bolts that mount the license plate bracket to the rear fender of the bike where it meets the fender. After bolting the bracket back to the fender, I then drilled through the bracket hole and through the rear fender. This keeps both holes centered. Warning: be careful when drilling as you need to move the wires under the fender out of the way first or you will drill through them once you penetrate the fender, not to mention that if you go too deep you'll puncture your rear tire. I pulled the lengthened wires up through the new holes in the fender and license plate bracket to the rear of the license plate holder. I then ran the left and right turn signal wires through the relocation brackets and turn signal mounting nuts and washers. I then cut/soldered the new wires to the shortened turn signals wires, trimmed up the wire, taped them all. With the Motorcycle Enterprises brackets mounted to the license plate, I attached the turn signals to the brackets, and that was that. With the license plate installed the wires are well out of sight. Suggestions: use a little extra tape or wire shrink-wrap where the wires come through the fender. A rubber grommet in the fender/bracket hole would also work so that the vibrating fender doesn't wear through the wires. John "Little John" Sheets, john_sheets@globalcrossing.com, Lincoln Park, Michigan VRA #1-27-16A-1500A VROC #4644 1993 Vulcan 88 VN1500-A7 Blue/Grey
TECH
TIP: $0.00 answer to rear signal move Thought
I'd take a few minutes to bang on my chest a little and let everyone know that I
feel like the Alpha Ape after yesterday's successful modifications! For
those of you who are experienced mechanics, this might not seem like such a big
deal, but this desk jockey is feeling damned proud! Yes,
that's right, I took all the good advice on moving the rear signals listed in
the archives and put a little creativity to the question and damned if it
doesn't look really good! And it cost me exactly 0 dollars! Here's
what I did: 1)
Removed the rear signals from the bike. This involves taking off the seat,
unclipping the wires from the harness, and pushing them back through the holes
in the fender. 2)
Held the rear turn signals up beside the metal bracket that supports the license
plate and luggage rack to see how they would look back there -- damn, not bad! 3)
Took off the metal and plastic plates attached to the license plate and luggage
rack. (Two bolts under the fender). 4) Centered and drilled the sides of the metal bracket holder with a 13MM (not exactly sure, just eyeballed it) drill bit. Made sure it would not block any of the bolts involved with the assembly and that the front of the rear signal lens would be on the same plane as the license plate. 5)
Drilled same size hole in the plastic cover that goes over the metal bracket.
Used a little dab of oil to mark the where the little nib that keeps the signal
from twisting, hit the plastic and drilled a pilot hole for it (much smaller
bit). 6) Assembled the lights on the bracket off the bike. Damn, so far so good! This might work! 7)
THE SCARRY PART: temporarily reassembled the plate holder to line up the spot on
the fender where I would be drilling the rear fender for the new harness holes.
Scratched an "X" on my beautiful, clean fender's paint. Took off
new assembly and hit the fender with the drill! HANG ON! Reach under
and move the brake light harness from the bottom of the fender right where I was
about to drill! Okay, now drill. 8)
Wrapped the harness with electrical tape 5 or 6 times where the harness rested
against the new hole, ran it through and bolted down the new assembly. 9)
Ran the wires under the clips where the brake light harness runs and back
through the holes leading to the main harness under the seat. Hold breath
annnnddd "clip" they reach! (Just barely!) 10)
Tried the lights. Left blinks left, right blinks right! 11)
Bolt everything back together and RIDE! I'm proud as they come! It works! Now I have a HUGE set of saddlebags attached to the bike ready to roll for my big trip. I'm starting to wonder what's next, I'm so proud to have done it on my own with no aftermarket mod parts! Sandman, Shepferg2@aol.com, v5370 ['94 BUBF -- killed by a BMW Convertible] '97 BUBF!
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