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A TASTE OF BUENOS AIRES
(Or things I wish someone had told me before I arrived!)

Having just returned from a visit to Buenos Aires, I thought I would write a few words in the hope that it would assist tango lovers to plan their own trip. I must at the outset make it plain that this was a short visit, just before Christmas and what I am about to say is one person's entirely subjective experience. Nonetheless, these things I discovered may be helpful for others and I wish I had known them at the start of the trip.

I suppose all of us feel the need at some time to make a pilgrimage to the place in which Tango was born and we are tempted all the more when we see fantastic dancers from Buenos Aires who tour our countries, teaching. I don't quite know what I expected to see but I had delayed so long, fearing that what I would discover was that the whole thing was a sham, a facade of tacky nonsense. I have to admit that I saw plenty of that but there was enough wholesome, solid dancing to be seen and done if you looked for it and if you had good advice. Luckily, we did.
The flight from the UK is long. To make it anything like economical you simply have to travel like cattle in economy class and that usually means hopping first to Frankfurt with Lufthansa, Rome with Alitalia or Paris with Air France. BA does a direct flight from Heathrow but it is more expensive and only sensible if you live near to London. For us in the Midlands it made more sense to start at Birmingham and fly to Frankfurt. However,as far as I can see, all the long haul flights stop to refuel at Sao Paulo in Brazil. This means that after the quick flight to a European staging hub you suffer another 11 hours in the air, then an hour on the ground and another 2 hour flight from Brazil before you arrive, shattered, in Bs As
The best advice I was given, and took, was to avoid alcohol, wear flight socks and take a really good neck pillow, not one of the inflatable sort but something much more substantial. It worked for me on the way there but, sadly, not coming home, when I could not sleep a wink.

Accommodation

Buenos Aires is full of hotels and several friends of ours have been quite comfortable even in the most spartan of those. We decided however that renting an apartment would work better for us and so it proved. We like to slob about without worrying about maids needing access. We like a decent bath. We like to have a sitting room separate from the bedroom in case one of us wants sleep and the other to watch TV. Hotels rarely provide this and besides, we wanted the ability to cook and wash and iron a few things so we could travel very light. When I talk about cooking, I want to make it plain that, particularly in a city with millions of great restuarants and amazingly cheap food 24 hours a day, what I mean is the nice thing of having a fridge stocked with breakfast goodies, bottled water and wine and fruit. It's nice to have somewhere to hang out a pair of knickers without offending the management and to freshen up a pair of trousers with an iron before going dancing.

We had arranged a small flat through a friend of a friend but when we told our closest friends in Buenos Aires where it was they were appalled. It seems that there are certain areas of the city where crime is rife, usually because of drugs. Our friends suggested some safer alternatives and we were glad they did. In the end, using a company called ByTargentina we rented a superb apartment in Puerto Madero. This is the area that used to be the docklands and is in the process of being converted from warehousing into hotels and apartments. It is the swankiest part of town with the biggest Hilton Hotel I have ever seen and we felt very safe there. Part of the reason for that was that being under the docks authority, it has its own distinct police force.
In case you think I have over stated the security issue, let me tell you that every bridge entrance to this 'island' of Puerto Madero has a police car with two armed officers standing on guard, 24 hours a day, as well as beat officers seemingly at most street corners. That has to tell you something about security.

We were able to rent for as many days as we wished. It was an easy process to arrange this online and everything we had been promised was correct. We liked the fact that we had a friendly and useful 24 hour concierge/security guard manning the lobby and were given several emergency numbers to use in case of problems. I think the company earned their commission and it was good to feel that you could walk to shops and restuarants in safety. Otherwise, the general advice given to us by our local friends was never walk the streets after dark but always call a taxi.

This all made us feel both anxious about general security but reassured that we had a safe bolt hole and we would recommend ByTargentina from that point of view. However, just to underline the fragile state of the local economy, unlike any arrangement you might make in the UK, we were obliged to pay in cash in US dollars - up front - on arrival and pay an additional returnable one week's rent, also in US dollars, to ensure we did not smash the place up and skip with the furniture, I suppose. The company were excellent and honoured the agreement to the letter. On the day of departure, at the crack of dawn, along came the owner's representative to check us out, and ensure we had left the place clean and tidy as we had found it.
Had we not stayed in Puerto Madero, we would have like to have stayed in a flat in an area called Palermo where one of our friends lives. This too is a peaceful area with wonderful restuarants, parks and, best of all, some amazing dress shops.

Communications

We found that our mobile phones were useless and our house phone was blocked against phoning mobiles as well as international calls of course since included in our rental was gas, electricity and phone useage. The reason our mobile phones did not work even with 10 pesos (£2) of local sim card was that they did not have enough 'bands'. Check this out before you go. However, I wish someone had told me about the 'locutorio' system sooner. Locutorios are shops selling internet access and private, safe phone booths. Much safer and nicer than trying to use a coin box in the street. Besides, there is so much traffic noise and bustle, you could not expect to hear yourself think with one of those. Besides, your back is to the crowd. No, the locutorio is so much nicer and as cheap as anything, a few pence. In the town centre they are situated on every block it seemed but you needed to know what they were.

While mentioning 'blocks', known as 'cuartos', the thing to realise firly quickly is that the city is designed on a grid system with each block having 100 numbers and stretching 120 metres or so. It means that walking 10 blocks is a mile, more or less. It also means that streets are sometimes several miles long. No use someone telling you that a certain shop is to be found in Corrientes unless you get the number too. In fact, taxis prefer to be told the crossing nearest to where you want to go as in 'Cordoba y Florida', for example.

We managed reasonably well without mobiles but they are such a useful way to communicate with friends and taxi companies that, when I next upgrade, I shall ensure that I can use it anywhere in the world, just by buying a local sim card. I advise you to do the same. Charging your mobile's battery up in Buenos Aires is no problem because their electricity system is compatible. You make the connection simply by buying an adaptor at the airport.

Money

Credit cards work in some places but, for example,even in a reputable travel agent, to book a hotel up in Iguazu, even the Sheraton, meant that I was expected to pay in cash to avoid the agency having to wait for months to get their commission. Incidentally, please, PLEASE, do budget both 3 days and the money it costs to visit Iguazu Falls, up on the Brazilian border. It's where they filmed 'The Mission' and the combination of subtropical rainforest and the biggest waterfalls on earth is absolutely unmissable and a wonderful break fromn the city noise and stress.
We found we needed daily modest amounts of cash for food, milonga entrance fees and taxis and these were easily obtained through ATMs (Cajeros Automaticos) which have the facility to deal in English. They are inside banks not on the walls outside as in the UK and you gain access by swiping your credit or debit card through a slot. This enables you security and privacy and the ability to leave after you have safely stashed the loot. Unlike those we use in the UK, these machines greet you by name when your card goes in and the money appears before the card comes out. Then you are asked if you want any other service, you say no and out comes the card. I found there was no notion of any limit I could withdraw per day, which surprised me and at the same time allowed me more freedom to pay for big items.

The economy in Argentina has gone through a really sticky time and not many months ago, some towns even printed their own currency for local use. Forged banknotes are common and you can even get them from an ATM so in the higher denominations it is worthwhile checking the authenticity by looking at the metal strip which should look as if words are written, though not legible without a magnifying glass. Also check that the watermark has the same geezer's face as the picture and that the number changes from blue to a different shade of turquoise when you tilt it in the light. What fun! And you thought it was just like home? Buenos Aires may look European but in some respects it is wise to assume it is in the third world.

One thing to know is that it is important to save up your receipts ( and sometimes therefore insist that you get one!) so that when you leave the country, just before immigration control you report at a special ( and very obvious) desk to reclaim any tax you may have paid. Not all items you buy will qualify but since the tax will have been 20% it's worth getting back. I suppose the most likely items of purchase to fall into this category will be those that have had tax imposed on them by being imported into Argentina.

Taxis

One of the fantastic features of this city is that taxis are incredibly numerous and ridiculously cheap, 24 hours a day. They are yellow and black and called radio cabs. To begin with you think they are all the same. Then as you hail a few you discover that there are reputable companies and less so. Some are illegal. Some rip you off but it is still peanuts to us. To give you some idea, the most expensive trip, taking us many miles out of town cost a mere 12 pesos (£2.40) The less reputable have homicidal maniacs or crumbling geriatrics as drivers, no seat belts ( but notices advising you that you must wear one!)and often, under your bottoms, noisily worn back axles. Some of our drivers appeared to have a death wish with ridiculous speeds, sudden sharp turns, loads of horn use and generally risk taking of the most silly type. Thank goodness most major roads are one-way. It was a constant source of surprise to me that taxis were not more dented and we never saw one collision.

The ideal thing is to establish a relationship with one good company and ring them whenever you want a cab. I found ,el urbano, Tel: 4566-0000 were excellent. After the first call when they took my name and phone number, all I had to do was to tell them my name. Their computer system did the rest. We took some risks by hailing cabs and had some white-knuckle rides. On one trip, our driver's behaviour so offended a local cop, he was pulled over and his boot was searched and his papers checked while we sat in the sweltering heat wondering where it was all going to lead. He got off with a caution but I nearly decided to abandon him. He calmed down after a while.

Before leaving the subject of taxis, it is useful to know how to manage the business of getting to and from the airport at Ezeiza. The simple advice on arrival is to ignore the first wave of taxi touts and to walk through a ring of kiosks offering taxis and 'Remises' to the main foyer before you leave the airport building. In the centre of that is an open kiosk run on behalf of the local Ezeiza town drivers. They will take you in safety and comfort for 50 pesos (£10) though their knowledge of central Buenos Aires may be limited. If you like your driver and his car, keep his card to organise the return trip and save another 10 pesos by so doing. I wish we had done so. As it was, I left it too late and rang to book through another company and were promised a car by a woman with excellent English. It arrived on time but it turned out to be an illegal taxi; just a private Joe in a beaten up jalopy who insisted that I sat in the front so that the police would not realise he was working. The seatbelt had barnacles, it had so rarely been used. He drove like a clown, used his mobile frequently at high speeds and as we left him, shaken but not stirred, he was trying unsuccessfully, to start the old banger up again.

We never found an English speaking taxi driver but all of them were happy to chat in Spanish about the 'futbol' (Boca had just won the league and the Southamerican cup in the same week and we went home one night in a taxi surrounded by lunatic fans celebrating. Full marks for our driver's skill and local knowledge that we arrived home without incident. Next morning on the TV news we could see that the fans had trashed the city)

Shoes

Before we went, everyone told us that, what with the fantastic leather quality and quantity and the exchange rate, we would be coming back with loads of dance shoes. Well, we only bought 5 pairs! There were lots of outlets but the one we liked the best was a shop in the 1900s on Sarmiento called Neotango. They weren't the cheapest but the choice was fantastic. I am referring to beautiful, exotic but supremely comfortable high heeled women's shoes. I did not find one pair of men's that I thought were worth buying. They looked pretty but the quality was simply not the same. I probably did not find the good stuff. There are limits to the effort you wnat to put into such a trawl in my view. Prices were about 125 to 180 pesos (£25 to £36) for truly beautifully made, wonderfully stylish leather lined shoes for women but you could find bargains at half that price. The other nice thing about Neotango was the staff who were charming and we were very glad of their recommendation of a superb Italian Restuarant called Prosciutto, a block away, where we had a wonderful lunch.
One outstanding feature of Buenos Aires is the way people feel comfortable when asked to recommend places to eat that they like. No one was ever shy to tell us where to go and their advice always worked for us. While on the subject of shop-keepers, I could easily get used to receiving a kiss from some of the most attractive women in the world ( one cheek Bs As style) after I have spent significant sums of money.

Food

One of the absolute highlights of a visit to Buenos Aires must be the food. My guess is that those who buy an all-in package including board could miss out badly. Argentinians are like the French and the Italians; they take food very seriously. I cannot recall one lousy meal but I still remember some fantastic ones. The local beer, Quilmes, is light and refreshing if not particularly flavoursome and is on offer as draught (known as 'Chopp' for some reason) Drink is normally served with some nibbles and before a meal you might well be served delicious 'empañadas', miniature meat pasties. Totally delicious. Food is attractively served by pleasant staff who are quite happy to help you decide, explain dishes, make recommendations and appear to enjoy their work. Food is not fast food here. Indeed eating is a very slow process indeed which irritates some tourists. We enjoyed the relaxed feel and not being hassled. Most places we went to segregated smokers from non-smokers which is quite important considering what a high percentage of Argentinians smoke. On the moment of touchdown in Buenos Aires, three smokers sucked on unlit fags throughout disembarkation, customs and immigration before being able to strike a match. I had never seen that before. Argentina has one of the highest incidences of Lung Cancer in the world. No surprise to me.

The big thing in Buenos Aires is the beef (Bife) barbequed at a Parrilla. Some of the most succulent flavoursome beef I have ever experienced in my life. The problem is the portions. How anyone can comfortably finish half a kilo of beef, after bread and empañada, maybe a side salad and then go for a postre (desert) beats me. More importantly, how on earth are these people so slim? It must be the Atkins like diet and the frequent Milongas. I put so much weight on and I was failing to finish meals. Lord help those who start with the notion that you have to clear your plate!

Argentinians have a sweet tooth and their wonderful icecream is another reflection the Italian ancestry of so many of them. Their croissants ( Media Lunas) are wonderful but covered in sticky syrup.And the petit fours! Well! At the healthier end, we enjoyed some fantastic smoothies and fruit salads and outside of Italy, this must be the place for handmade pizza.

Milongas

We went out most nights to one milonga or another and found them to be very interesting and extremely varied. Most opened at about 10.30 but really did not get going until midnight when hoards of people arrived. We were always greeted warmly, often with a kiss, usually asked if we had made a table reservation. We never had but were always seeated somewhere pleasant. We mostly drank bottled water and so did most of the locals as far as I could see. The milonga we enjoyed most were at the Confiteria Ideal on Suipacha, near the junction of Suipacha and Corrientes. This is a lovely old venue with marble floor and a very comfortable feel. The night we were there there was a band called 'Sans Souci' and a brief demonstration by one couple but the best thing about it was the floor etiquette. The floor was packed but there was that cohesion that you read and hear about which gave an illusion of more space and nobody was showboating. In comparison, I found myself kicked and elbowed to death at La Milonguita which was utterly vile. El Beso on the other hand was a tiny venue full of delightful mature couples and it would have been hard not to feel at home there. At the younger end of the scale, La Viruta was also a good place to be with a group class on some aspects of sacadas in the milonguero style before the milonga, included in the 7 peso (£1.40)entrance fee.

We never got to experience a Matinee, that is a milonga in the afternoon, but there are plenty of those to choose from. The best magazine for finding out where they are seems to be a glossy called Tangauta. They reason we did not try a Matinee was that you have to sleep sometime!

I am not afraid to confess that I was anxious about dancing in milongas, in case I found myself somehow lacking in skill or standing out for some reason. I need not have worried. Styles as so varied. What we take so serioisly over here they consider matter of fact. I saw some pretty styles and some outstandingly beautiful women but also some grotesque styles and indifferent technique and these were locals, not Norwegian tourists. Our skills served us well enough wherever we went.

Other than tango

Of course we go to Buenos Aires to sample the tango and it is wise to have a local friend in the scene who can advise you when and where the good milongas are. Yes, there are lists in monthly newspapers but they are not to be relied on. The scene changes day to day and often no decision can be taken until late in the afternoon for a Milonga that will start at 10.30pm. If you go on a tango package, you can expect this to be sorted out by the organisers but it will be very much their idea of what you want and not necessarily your idea. Arrogance is common here, though well intentioned. Outside of the tango scene, do visit the Teatro Colón. Seats are amazingly cheap in comparison to, for instance, Covent Garden. You can sit in the stalls for an opera or ballet for £18. One nice feature is that you can visit the official website of the Teatro Colón, find out what is going to be on when you are in town and ring up and book from the UK.
On Sunday, I would recommend anyone to take a taxi to Mataderos where the slaughterhouses used to be and see the Feria. This is a slightly sleazy street market with some nice things for sale at better prices than in the centre but also some interesting if often crude arts and crafts, fabulous beef and sausage. In addition, in cooler season you see some gaucho riding demos but best of all,throughout the year, genuine dancing in the street of the locals. Some tango of course but better than that, Chacarera and Chamame. Some of the best dancing I enjoyed doing was that street dancing. In addition, since this is populated by locals rather than tourists, you might, as we did, sit in a bar for a beer, enjoy great food and the craic of a bloke singing to a guitar and everyone singing their heads off. It can be sad to see the selling of worn shoes and clothes, underlining how poor many are in Argentina. In comparison, the Feria at San Telmo, also on a Sunday seemed to me to be a pile of tacky cheese and a dreadful, unappealing tourist trap. To see the place for its architecture and history, it would be better to go during the week unless you are into the grotesque.

Crime

We had been rather sensitised to the potential for a nasty experience. As it happens, the only thing we saw was a man fighting another to reclaim his bicycle. We had been told that Argentinians dressed smartly and imagined we ought to do the same. Nothing could be further from the truth. Most of them are as scruffy as we are, thank goodness. When our best pal comes to the UK he often wears a shell suit and a baggy sweater. I assumed that on his home turf he would dress up. Not so. He wore the same to a milonga! The thing not to do is stand out in the crowd as being a rich tourist. Don't wear jewelry and carry a camera obviously. When consulting a street map, go into a shop or bank or at least stand with your back to a doorway. Women in Buenos Aires carry their handbags looped over their shoulder but also tucked into their armpit and we saw several people wearing belly bags or cross shoulder sacks. Wearing shorts might well mark you out as a tourist. People walk fairly slowly in the heat but always purposively as if they know where they are going and it seems wise to merge with the crowd in that way. It is one amazing crowded and busy city that never sleeps.

We saw some drunks but they seemd affable. There were lots of beggars but they always took a shake of the head as a 'No' and cause no trouble. In some places we saw people evidently sleeping off drink or drugs. Police were everywhere and we found them pleasant and helpful when we asked directions. We never tested their English but we never needed to. We only needed to ask directions, never for assistance any other way.

By day, we never felt any anxiety. People were universally polite, warm and helpful, possible because we approached them with deference and about-adequate spanish skills. I think night time is a different matter. Local friends were very insistent that we never under any circumstance, walked anywhere after dark. They also would have looked askance at our habit of hailing taxis in the street but perhaps we were lucky. We were advised to protect our cash by stashing it in several pockets rather than wear a body belt. The theory is that a mugger would probably get you to empty one pocket, possibly three but rarely go further. I asked if it would be best to hide money inside my shoes. It seems however that some tourists have been stripped stark naked at gunpoint so I suppose it is all a matter of degree. We saw nothing like any of this but I would not to presume it was urban myth.

Our conclusion

We are very glad we went. It was the holiday of a lifetime and we learned a great deal and enjoyed absolutely everything, other than the flight home, always a nasty thing as far as I am concerned. We saw great tango and bad tango. We discovered that the eternal truth about tango is universal; there is nothing specifically Argentine about it. Even the style of dancing that we now think of as Argentine can be seen in Milongas all over Europe. We saw people dancing for its own sake, deeply engrossed in each other. We saw old couples, odd-shaped couples, all bringing their own distinct styles to the dance and it gave us more heart to think that we should continue to develop our own particular style that suits our ages and our body shapes. We also saw people concerned only for how they might look to others and who they were seen with. We had no difficulty rejecting that view of tango since we never subscribed to it in the first place. We never believed there was some holy grail to be achieved somewhere by finding a 'secret'. This trip reinforced that view. Speaking for myself, before I went, I feared discovering that I would be inadequate in a crowd of dancing porteños. I was not. Would we go again? No. Would we encourage other tango dancers to go? Absolutely.