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The Consummate Tourist!
Knowing that the world is holding its collective breathe in anticipation of hearing my tale of my week in New York City, I have given in to the temptation to tell the tantalizing tale that everyone is simply rabid to hear. This may have some misspellings, simply because I am uncertain of the proper way to spell some of these things. I apologize to the perfect spellers out there, Email me with my mistakes & I will fix them. I may also have some mis-remembrances, we saw & did so much, so fast, again I apologize for any errors in this missive. Whether you like it or not, here is my story...
This journey actually started a year ago. I knew that the Council for Exceptional conference would be held in New York City, and having never been there before felt this was a perfect opportunity to allow my personal and professional lives mutually benefit each other. I managed to get a proposal accepted to make a presentation at the conference, thus insuring my inability to back out. I planned WELL in advance, managing to get a very good deal on airline tickets on American Airlines, tickets to Les Miserables, & a hotel room. I had decided on the Portland Square hotel, a “short” 5 blocks from the conference and the “clean-up-after-yourself” plan (a $10/night discount if you make your own bed & hang up your own towels – what a deal!) This in addition to the fact that “off-season” pricing was still in effect (another $10/night discount!), it was really a very affordable deal.
A week before leaving, my friends that live in the big apple informed me they knew of someone that was going on a trip himself during that same time frame and was willing to rent my HIS apartment for $10/ night less than the hotel. This apartment is in Greenwich Village, a block off Christopher Street and right off the Hudson River, & 7 blocks from the subway station to the conference. This was too good a deal to turn down.
OK, enough already with the preliminary, preparative information, on with the tales of the city…
Getting There I left Austin on April 2, 2002 on American Airlines, changed planes in St Louis and landed in Newark NJ shortly after 7 PM. Security was only slightly more intense than in the past. I did feel the children with rifles making their presence felt was a major bit of overkill, making me wonder exactly what their purpose was- surely if anything (i.e. terrorist activity) were to occur, it would NOT happen at the security check! My friend Lorne was at the airport to greet me. He gave me my subway ticket for a weeks worth of unlimited rides.We claimed my luggage, and headed for the train. This is a very easy transition, a comfortable ride, and convenient, convenient, convenient. Let me take this opportunity to put in a plug for mass transit, i.e. light rail for the Austin area.
Being There
The Apartment
From Penn Station, we decided to get my first overall view of the city by taking a taxi to the apartment in Greenwich Village. Greenwich Village is on the Southwest side of the island. My friend, Sterling, was waiting at Frans’s apartment for us. Frans himself was, while still in the city, out IN the city. We met with him later in the evening. Frans has a beautiful apartment (a few too many mirrors for my taste, one whole wall of the apartment was mirrors, from the living room to the bedroom. He has a piano (he was a Bistro Awards winner for best vocalist). He has a roommate from Texas, a former dancer, now a personal trainer at a gym. This is a 2 bedroom apartment, a good sized living room, large bedroom (I never saw inside the roommate’s bedroom), a small kitchen, and a tiny bathroom. You can see the World Trade Center light towers from the bedroom window, They are about a mile south of the apartment. Monica Lewinsky is staying in the complex across the street. There are a couple outstanding features of the apartment, however.
He has an extraordinary collection of Buddhist paraphernalia! There are Buddhist statues all over the place. For a SMALL taste of the variety, see the photos. I found it perfectly fabulous, as you can probably tell from the photos!
The second feature that makes this apartment stand out from any other apartment is the setup of the courtyard(s). Each first floor apartment opens into a personal small courtyard (oh, say the size of a normal sized room). This they can obviously decorate as they see fit. Frans has as many plants as he can squeeze into this space and several more pieces of Buddhist paraphernalia (see photos). I am unsure of the exact count, but there are 16-20 of these personal courtyards. THESE all open into a master courtyard. There are pathways through this, and areas protected by a split rail style fence. There is a plethora of gorgeous plants such as hyacinths, daffodils, jonquils, and a variety of others.
First Night – Greenwich Village
I simply put my stuff up and we went out to explore Greenwich Village. That first evening was such a blur of new experiences I hardly remember any specifics. It is a blur of Lorne & Sterling saying, “This is …;” “That is…,” “Over there…”. I do clearly remember the ghost light towers from the World Trade Towers site. It was cool (both temperature-wise and tourist-y-wise.) We went to eat at the Pink Teacup. This is a restaurant founded by Billie Holiday’s mother. She had to restrict Billie H from the restaurant because her propensity for stealing $$ from the cash register! The staff was all male, very nellie, very black, and very good waiters. The food was very ethnic, I had smothered steak & rice, of course we all had dessert! I had a bread pudding that was in desperate need to some cream. We headed back to the apartment, I met and made my transactions with Frans, & walked with the guys to the subway stop. Instead of going straight back to the apartment, I stopped off at some bars -The Monster, The Stonewall!, and Boots & Saddles. The crowds were small (it was a Tuesday night!) but I felt probably typical of the scene. The dance floor at Monster was full, not crowded, there were about 10 guys crowded around the piano upstairs. Boots & Saddles had maybe 6 customers & Stonewall had 10, but the bartender, Chris, was VERY handsome! At The Monster, there were flowerboxes full of fabulous blooming plants – and not just a few, there were dozens of flowerboxes. It was exquisite!
I finally sauntered off to the apartment. I woke up early and felt MISERABLE. That was when I discovered I was under the power of my arch nemesis, I had FEATHER PILLOWS. I took some allergy medicine and felt about halfway better when I re-awoke, it all cleared up in about a day. At least until about day 3, when I again slept with the wrong pillow and had to suffer another miserable 24-30 allergy filled hours.
Day 2 – Midtown
Lorne came down to pick me up. He had pain au chocolat & endive Quiche from a delightful little French bakery, Patisserie Claude. The weather was perfect for an excursion, 65-70ish and sunny. Our first stop when we got off the subway was Macy’s! We saw the flower show, the wooden escalators, the men’s department and candy shop (oh, oh, oh my God!). The flower show was unexpectedly beautiful. The flowers were mostly up above the clothing displays, but everything was simply drop dead gorgeously perfect. Since I am on the subject of flowers, there were daffodils blooming all over the city, taller ones with bigger blooms than I had ever seen before. We got back on the street, to walk, walk, walk. We walked so much during the trip that my calves were sore to the touch the first 3-4 days. After that they started getting used to it.
We could frequently see the Empire State Building ! in our ramblings. We traveled around midtown! I am sure I will forget many of our sightings, but I will try my best. We went to the Chrysler Building where we saw some fabulous marble. We cruised up Lexington Ave. to 47th Street to the diamond district. Now, this is my kind of town! Sterling called and had arranged for us to take the (semi) circle cruise in the afternoon. We went to Rockafellar Plaza on 5th Avenue. It started raining, so ran over to St. Patrick’s Cathedral. They were having a service, so we did not get to explore. I did get some photos of Atlas across the street. About an hour after we left, we learned the next morning, there was a shooting at St. Patrick’s Cathedral. All this time, of course, the temperature was dropping, We had not taken our coats because of the extremely pleasant temperatures of the morning. We went by Radio City Music Hall on 51st Street and up to where Lorne works (in the Equitable Building) and saw the Sheraton next door where I would be at the confenece the next day. I met some of the delightful crew Lorne works with and got a “New York Salute” from Artie (I will leave it up to your imagination what THAT entailed!)
From there we went to Times Square and had the street vender “make me one with everything” (I felt so Buddhist!). We ate our hot dogs on Broadway and headed down 8th Avenue to the Port Authority and bought a lovely snow globe of the Statue of Liberty as a gift for Mrs. Clanahan. We headed down 42nd Street to the Pier 83 to meet Sterling for the cruise. Before you get on the boat, they take your picture. After you get off the boat they have the pictures there for you to buy as a picture, or a refrigerator magnet. We sat on the front left side (the side facing the city) around 2:30. There are 1.5 million people on the island, and 2 million visit every day. NYC itself is 8 million people and Lorne says there are 8 hungry rats for each person. As cold and drizzly as it was, I got some pretty good photos during the cruise. Afterward, we picked up our ‘fridge magnet, headed back to the subway to the Village for dinner at Alfama’s, a Portuguese restaurant. I had Chicken Fricassee. There were Portuguese musicians, a couple instruments and a male singer. He seemed very nervous, bouncing around the customers and had a haircut that reminded me of the way my mother wore her hair in the 80’s. Then a female singer took over. She was very good, reminded us of Cecilia Cruz. There were a group of very loud drunken Midwestern businessmen at the head table. You could hear several of the other tables of customers making comments re: their rudeness level. She stood at the head of their table a couple times and sang loud. The owner of the restaurant made a statement to the crowd introducing the musicians and asking for the crowd’s respect, and the singer also re-uttered this request, “I am here to sing for you, and you, and me.” She also had a beautiful rhinestone-y dress on. The whole experience blended together to be a totally (with the exception of the rude businessmen) pleasant memorable one. For dessert Sterling & I had "Chocolat Suprese," and the lorne got something else. I walked the guys up to the subway stop, sent back to the apartment and prepared for the first day of the conference. After getting organized, I went out for a walk around the Village, and popped into Boots & Saddles and Monster for a short time.
Day 3 – Midtown (Part II)
I went to the Council for Exceptional Children conference at the Sheraton, checked out where my session would be on Saturday, and went to a session. I realized I did not have my phone with me, so I just the subway back to the village picked it up and headed back to midtown. I met Lorne for Lunch. The Equitable building where he works has a HUGE Liechtenstein in the lobby, which is where we would meet. We went to a street vendor for lunch. I went back to the conference, a session and walked around in the exhibit hall. I met Lorne after he got off work. Lorne had called to see if I wanted to go to NY Philharmonic for Mozart Monumental Requiem Procopheus (sp?) by Alexander Nievski (sp?). As it turns out, the tickets were already gone when he checked back on them. SO, after the conference, I spent a couple hours at Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum! The majority of these wax statues are amazingly real. Why, Donald Trump even has hair in his ears! “Opening night,” with Ru Paul as the main person is unbelievable. The section on the history of Madame Tussaud!, and the museum is creepy. The musical part, Beatles, Janis Joplin, Spice Girls, Prince, Billie Holiday, etc, well you just have to see it to believe it. It was twilight when I got out, so I walked around Times Square for awhile, then headed to the subway to the Village and the apartment.
I got a couple examples of the NY attitude today. The light was red and traffic was moving at a brisk pace. This fat guy just went ahead and crossed the street, ignoring traffic and flipping off all the cars honking at him. Also, in the lobby at the Sheraton, 2 of the bellhops were just standing there yelling at each other, with about 4 other bellhops standing around watching them. Today’s high was about 40 degrees.
Day 3 – The Village (Part II)
I called “LIPS,” a restaurant in the village where all the staff are drag queens. Jennifer Michaels, from San Antonio, Texas, gave me directions to the place. I hiked up there, she met me at the door, seated me, suggested an order for me, & informed me “being from Texas,” I did not want to order their iced tea! I had the pork loin with new potatoes, and pureed carrots, with better than sex chocolate cake for dessert. During the course of the meal, there was a young lady with a birthday. “Peppermint” did “Here She Comes, Miss America,” gave her a crown, danced her around the room, and held a cake in front of her crotch & had her ‘blow’ - out a birthday candle. Jennifer Michaels did a similar number with a gentleman later in the evening, but being a bit more limber that Peppermint, held the cake further back between her legs. They did a show –Reba MacIntyre, Dolly Parton, Patti LaBelle, Joan Rivers, Cher, - the evening is called “Dinner With The Divas.” It was great fun, every act was done flawlessly. On Wednesday “the bitchiest night of the week” is Bitchy Bingo. On the way home I passed Stonewall Bar, so I stopped, had a few cokes and walked the go-go dancers (Yummm!) I stopped in at a couple of the tourist traps and bought a few trinkets & postcards.
Day 4 – Broadway!
I went to several sessions at the conference. I met Lorne for lunch, we went to a deli where everything is the same price, you pay by the pound. I got a little of everything. I had a big chuck of salmon, a couple small pieces of sesame chicken, got stuffed! Back to the conference (could hardly stay awake!) Today’s high was about 40 degrees. Met Lorne afterward and we walked around midtown! for a while and headed to Tout Va Bien, a French restaurant. Sterling met us there. I had the steak au poive. For dessert, I had the lightest chocolate mousse I had ever had and the guys had a chocolate tulip - a tulip of chocolate piled high with strawberries and whipped crème. After dinner, Sterling & I went to the Broadway production of Les Miserables at the Imperial Theatre. This show – what can I say? We had house seats – front row! It was, if not THE best, most certainly one of the very best, productions I have seen. Every word was crystal clear, the set could change before your eyes with the huge set changes, and it was hardly noticeable. The stage was like a giant lazy susan, so the actors could walk & walk & walk so it seemed like they were really going somewhere, the scenery could change with the revolving stage, and the actor would still be center stage! Bravo! Magnifico! Tears flowed freely, there are many emotionally wrenching parts.
After this show, we headed to Stella’s. This is a, well how do I say it in nicely, hmmm, well it is a male hustler bar. But if you really get down to it, what bar isn’t?!? The bar was loaded with splendid examples of masculine malehood. At midnight, everyone headed downstairs for the show. There were about a dozen dancers that took turns dancing. They stripped down to as close to naked as they could get without actually BEING naked – they had a strange sock-like ‘costume’ that form- fittedly covered the one thing that was not naked. While one was dancing, the others were circulating among the audience collecting dollars, rubbing up against audience members, looking for the evening’s ‘date.’ A very ‘stimulating’ performance!
About 3 AM Sterling escorted me to the subway station. I saw the yellow tape around it, and heard a whisper. “Station’s closed.” I looked around, saw nothing & hear the voice a tiny bit louder, “Station’s closed.” I saw a piece of the wall detach itself and form itself into this blanket wrapped tiny little woman, “Station’s Closed.” I must have looked lost, she said (getting braver with each word), “You know what to do?” “No.” She told me I could go down to the next station (about 8-9 blocks away) or go over 1 block & down 1 block, catch that subway, transfer at the next stop, the subways run about every 20 minutes at that time of night. I walked out of there (after giving her all my loose change) thinking of the hour or so it was going to take me to get home & the 10 AM presentation I had to do at the conference. A taxi came by so I caught it home and had a great talk with the driver. Got everything together so I could just get ready & fly out the door in the morning.
Day 5 – Saturday – Uptown
Did NOT go to an 8:30 session, I was TIRED! Got there around 9:15. Grabbed a couple Danish pastries & COFFEE in the hotel restaurant & watched the snow flurries out the window. I headed up to the room to get set up and someone had set up in my space! I showed them where they were in the wrong place, but just made a sign that if someone wanted to see MY session! go to booth #17 instead of booth #26, I headed down to THEIR booth & set up there. I had maybe 2 dozen folks come through, I felt it was a slow, but successful presentation. After wrapping everything up, I grabbed the subway to the northern end of the island and went to Lorne & Sterling’s apartment! It is a 1 bedroom near the Cloisters. We had a light brunch at a local restaurant, & headed for Fort Trion (sp?) Park. This area used to be a terrible mess until Bette Midler moved into the area and started programs to clean up the parks in the northern part of the island. The Cloisters were built when Rockefeller JR went to Europe and bought up several old crumbling monasteries, had then dismantled and shipped here, and had an architect reassemble them into the Cloisters. The unicorn tapestries are located here. We say a hawk fly right in front of us with a squirrel in his talons. It flew not very far from us, settled down and finished it off.
We headed back to midtown to Central Park around 77th Street. Saw the Dakota Hotel, where Lennon lived (& was shot) and where Rosemary’s Baby was filmed. Went into the park, saw the Lennon ‘Imagine’ mosaic, the Bethesda fountain with the angel of the working man. The park is full of flowers, parts of this town are so beautiful! Saw the promenade where Thoth does his thing, and headed back to the rich part of town, checked out one of the Trump towers to see all the magnificent pink marble and gold/brass fixtures. Went by the Plaza Hotel where we will have brunch tomorrow. We took a taxi back to the village, then headed to Kiran, an Indian restaurant to meet Sterling for dinner. I had the chicken Tikki Kabob and appetizers & araho bread. Sterling & I took off down to 9th Ave (restaurant Row). We walked throug Hell’s Kitchen heading south toward Toy’s R US. They have an in-store Ferris wheel, a Lego display (i.e., a Lego Empire State Building with a Lego King Kong, Lego Statue of Liberty), a life size Barbie house, many interactive toys, etc. We went to Times Square to see all the lights. The neon & chasing lights of old are all changing to state-of-the-art TV screen like displays (like one would expect to see in Japan). We listened to the black “preachers” preach their message of religious hate (anti-white, anti-Jew, anti-gay, anti-woman, etc.) on a corner of Times Square until we couldn’t take that any longer. The temperature was about 35 . Caught the subway to the Village and went to bed –Saturday night and I went to bed the earliest of any night that I was there!
Day 6 – Off Broadway (Way Off!)
Daylight savings – we have to “spring forward.” I got up early and walked up to Balducci’s and bought some stuff to take home, stopped at McNulty’s to get some great smelling coffee, got that rainbow feather boa I’ve been eyeing all week, a couple cards. I even stopped at a few of those strange looking shops whose windows I’ve been peeking into all week. Hopped on the subway to meet Lorne at the Plaza Hotel for the $75/plate brunch. I got off at Columbus Circle, got a little turned around, but am already figuring out this place a little so I got myself found again. Walked past a great statue into Central Park, and, since I was a little early and knew where I was going, I stepped into Ricky’s Boutique. I showed remarkable restraint and walked back out, only having spent $20. The brunch was amazing. There was so much food, so much that I do not even know what it was. I was brave, I tasted things I have no idea what they were, and liked most of it! There was the hot food bar, the dessert bar, the omelet bar, the appetizer bar, the fish bar,the pastry bar, the cheese bar, coffee, orange juice, & champagne flowed freely. You had to ask for water, there is a ‘drought’ here –they need to come to Texas if they want to see a drought! We caught the subway back to the Village to see “Naked Boys Singing” at the Actor’s Playhouse. Sterling & Lorne’s neighbor is in the play. Some of the songs are ‘Gratuitous Nudity,’ ‘Perky Little Porn Star,’ ‘Nothing But The Radio On,’ ‘ Muscle Addiction,’ well, you get the idea! The show got its start in Los Angeles. It is a fairly short show, but it is cute, cute, cute.
We walked up to the park by Stonewall! and took a couple pictures by the statues in the park there. The guys went their way, and I hopped back on the subway to meet my friend Pat Rasso. I have not seen her since she moved back to NY approx. 15 years ago. We agreed to meet at Penn Station, at the corner of 7th Avenue & 33rd street. This is the corner of Madison Square Garden. We hopped back on the subway and went to Little Italy. She lived in Little Italy as a child, and again when she moved back to NY, before she moved back into her Mother’s house.
We ate at Benito’s 1 (Benito’s 2 is across the streetand down a bit) on Mulberry Street in the heart of Little Italy ("and these days, it is quite little...but in the old days, Italians teemed the tenements in the area")I had a sumptuous meal of Linguini in a white clam sauce, with clams still in the shell. The waiter took a picture of us. I tried to tell him how to use my camera, he said, “Yeah, yeah, I know how to do it.” We talked of old times, new times, the past 15 years and the future. Back on the subway. She continued on her way back to Long Island.
I went to the apartment, got most everything packed up and ready to leave in the morning. I walked around the Village, then headed up to midtown to visit one last club ‘Reds.’ It seemed that people disappeared and reappeared, I think I finally figured out there were back rooms where they could go for a ‘private dance,’ if you know what I mean! I wandered down the street to where I thought the subway station was, I couldn’t find it, I saw a couple NYPD walking, so I asked them. Within seconds there was a NYPD car stopped, “Is there a problem?” They said no, gave me directions to the station, and I took of happy with the idea that I had a positive interaction with the police! It was funny, they got into an ‘argument light, ’ “That station is closed,” “No, its not,” “Yes it is,”etc. They finally convinced me it WAS open (it was). I had to wait about 15 minutes for the late night subway, but I made it. It is amazing that so much is still going on at the late hour like that. I am used to the town shutting down much earlier than that (& ME shutting down even earlier!)
Home Again, Home Again
I got everything together, did a last check of the apartment & headed out. I dreaded the 7-block walk with my luggage, so I caught a taxi after walking about half block. I was going to take it to Penn Station where I could catch the train. He said, “I can get you there for $46.” I said just Penn Station, I would take the train. He said, “I can get you there for $35.” I said, “OK.” He told me that during rush hour even if I had asked him to take me to the airport he would have refused. He was Indian and we had a great conversation about how NY has changed over the years and especially the past year. I heard the same thing from him that I had heard several times when I talked to natives and they asked my impression of the city. I would tell them I was surprised how safe I felt most of the time (the only time I was even uncomfortable was a few moments when I thought a guy was going to try to steal my cmaera on 14th street, but luckily Lorne showed up at that very moment) and how clean the city felt (both liter-wise and moral-wise. They woule tell me that it was Mayor Guiliani that had cleaned up the city - I never heard 1 bad word about the man.
The scenery on this trip certainly was different than the scenery I saw on all over the city. This time I think I saw the seamier, grittier side of the city. I felt like I was riding through the bad parts of Houston. This time at the airport, the security was more intense - I had to take my shoes off and run them through the security scan and he metal detector-ed me thouroughly, even gently hand-frisked me! They do random security checks. I saw them giving a poor Indian woman a very hard time, searched her, her carry ons, her purse, her little kids (I would guess about ages 3 & 5.) They did NOT search her husband, I thought that was strange also. I did not see them search any other people so thoroughly. The plane went to Dallas, I did not have to change planes and on to Austin. Brian & Dennis met me at the airport, & we went to Dinner at P. F. Chang’s. Got all my pictures to Wolf Camera and dowloaded the digital shots into my ‘puter.
It was a successful trip, it was good to be gone and good to see everything I saw. But it is good to be home again and sleep in my own bed! I do not know how I can ever thank my friends, Sterling & Lorne for helping make my trip so successful, all the great things they showed me, all the great placed they took me, all the $$ they spent on me!!! There were still many things I was unable to do – go up in the Empire State Building, up in the Statue of Liberty, to Ground Zero & the Bronx zoo. But, that leaves some stuff to do if I go again!
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The Consummate Tourist