| ================= Lease Rods / Sticks ================= I have two pieces of aluminum tubing that I use for lease rods. One is 1 1/8", other 1". (Use the smaller diameter closer to the heddles per Allen Fannin). Some fine steel wool and then metal polish will give a smooth and chrome like finish. They're light weight. I use a cord doubled, front to back beam to suspend them. Add a few spring loaded cord stops and they can be positioned where needed. The closer together they are the more tension (to a point). Can also add another rod to increase tension, and still work smoothly. One rod will telescope inside the other for storage and I try to keep them where they won't get dinged. Some 600 grit sandpaper will smooth out little burrs. Aluminium tubing is available at most of the chain lumber yards. (no connections) They usually have a rack with misc. pieces of steel, aluminum, etc. You should be able to get the exact length you need with a tubing cutter or a hack saw. Rod, t.f.c. ------------- Here's what I've always done with my lease sticks and tensioning dowels: I use two of the round, heavy duty 55" workboot laces knotted together for each side, making a length of almost 110". Each is looped over the breast beam and run to the back to the lease sticks which are between the heddles and the raddle. The top lace goes down into the hole drilled in the lease stick, the bottom lace goes up through the same hole. The same procedure is repeated on the next lease stick. Then the laces are tied around the back beam. _____ ______ ________lace . \ / \ / . {{{}}} {{{}}} <----- lease sticks _____/ \____/ \ _______lace This holds the lease sticks level and allows for them to be slid back and forth (with some effort) into any desired location but they don't move as it holds them steady and in place when winding on. This can also be done with holes drilled in dowels, using as many dowels as you want for tensioning. Chris in Michigan's U.P. ------------------------------ |
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