| ================= Rug Smiles & Frowns ================= >I'm a fairly new weaver, but am rapidly becoming addicted! >One problem I'm having though is that my rugs end up having >a slight "smile" to them. It starts about a foot into the >rug. Does it have something to do with the edges of the >warp getting stretched? --------------------- Any selvedge or any part of the fell line that shows a bump (frown), means the warp in that place is looser than the main warp. Any selvedge or any part of the fell line that shows a sunken in spot (smile), means the warp in that place has a higher tension than the main warp. These can be avoided by several methods, sometimes combined: o good warping and beaming practices o using a cross o correct weft tension, o attaching a temple o using an end feed shuttle ( end delivery shuttle ). Righthanded weavers sometimes have problems with the right selvedge only, which probably means you're paying less attention to what your left hand actually does over there ! Selvedges do better if weighted or braked separate from the main warp; experiment with the sel. tension, because every project isn't the same. Having a routine to follow is fine, but make notes and be prepared to change something to suit your technique, weave, weft, and loom. Bill Koepp --------------------- Smiles can be eliminated by using a temple, or stretcher, from the very first pick of the rug to the last..... Su Butler --------------------- In reference to using a temple on a rug to alleviate the "smile", another suggestion: We make very large rugs, and have had to learn to weave them without a temple... If you work toward never having a draw in at the selvedge, the selvedge has the ability to stay straight. Note that it needs to be absolutely straight from the reed to your front apron bar. This includes beginning with tieing it in a straight line. Your selvedge knots should appear slightly ascew to the right or left, allowing the final thread in the reed to keep it's straight position. When weaving the heading of the rug and then the body, we bring the weft out of the shed, and deliberately place it in the next shed keeping the selvedge straight and squeezing it down into the new shed...sort of like using your hand/fingers to be the beater. Any needed bubbling or manipulation of the weft occurrs after the "set" section of the selvedge. ie. 3-4" inward. When the remainder of the weft is placed , we take care not to dislodge the "set" section. If we do, then we go back and "reset" the selvedge section. I suppose it takes a little longer to do this, but it really improves the look of the rug, and gives the weaver more control over sizing and take up. Sheree in NC --------------------- When a smile or curving of the weftline ( Fell ) first appears, that's the time to take measures to stop it. I'd place a rod into the warp as follows: If the edge warps are looser ( the most common one ),slide a stiff rod over them and under the center ( tighter ) warp. Anchor this rod to the back beam with two loops of cord and then hang something about 8 to 12 ounces from the center of the rod, tightening the edge warps. Increase the weight if the fell doesn't get well. It's best to do this before the fell is allowed to get mis-shapen. The rod is over the selvedges (the loose warp) and under the tighter main warp. The weight then pulls the rod and the looser warp down to add tension. I'd keep the rod within 6 inches of the back beam, as it will interfere with the warp movements if allowed to move forward too much. It has to be a stiff metal or wooden rod. After that weaving is done, retie and take a few minutes to try to find out why your warp tension was uneven. A careful look at your warping and beaming practices can save your nerves later ! Bill Koepp --------------------- |
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| (One problem I'm having though is that my rugs end up having a slight "smile" to them.) |