Learning the art of bead work is essential in restoring antique clothing, because as the threads became brittle with age, much of the heavily encrusted work has been damaged, and beads will need to be replaced.
Beading can also give a nice touch to a contemperary garment, and collars, cuffs and bodices will really stand out when a pattern of glass beads, pearls or sequins are added. You can also take a piece of decorated fabric, perhaps one cut from a vintage embroidered satin or silk no longer usable; accent it with glass beads and frame.
You can buy crystal or opaque glass seed beads or oblong bugle beads in a variety of colours, at most craft shops, or re-use any salvaged from an unrepairable antique piece.
Try to select the approprate size and colour to match the fabric you plan to enrich. Determine the best part to use as a focal point and cut away the outside leaving enough fabric for mounting; or for a cushion; to attach to the back piece.
Using a beading needle and fine thread, sew each bead on separately as shown in the images to the right. Leaf veins and flower petals can be outlined in beads of a deeper tone than the fabric and black beads can be used as accents.
If you would like your work to stand out even more, you can add some padding to the individual motifs. First; take a thin backing material and pin it to the wrong side of the fabric leaving a opening only large enough to fit your hand. Then stuff the motifs you want to raise, lightly with absorbent cotton; take a tiny running stitch with matching thread around the outline of the motif to give it a lightly puffed look,
If framing, be sure to add a vapour barrier to avoid moisture damage.
Other Techniques:
HOW TO ATTACH A SEQUIN: To hide the stitch bring thread up through center of fabric and
sequin, taking care to have the right side uppermost. Pass thread down to back of fabric and up through for next stitch as shown in Fig. 1. Thread a sequin on, and take a backstitch along the same line as shown in Fig. 2. This causes the sequins to overlap and hides the stitches. Continue around the outside of any area, then fill in the center .
TO ATTACH SEQUIN WITH BEAD IN THE CENTER: Bring thread up through fabric and center of sequin, then pass through the bead, then carry the thread down through the center of the sequin again. The bead acts as an anchor to hold the sequin in place. Pass needle through fabric to adjoining space for next sequin and bead, and repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 in Fig. 3.
TO SEW ON BEADS, PEARLS OR SMALL SHELLS: Pearls, round or faceted beads and some
shells have two holes opposite each other. Choose a needle slim enough to slide through without splitting the bead and sew on with backstitch. Mercerized sewing cotton or nylon thread is recommended. Make each stitch just long enough to match the length of the bead so that they lie close together on the fabric. An alternate method is to string the beads or pearls and couch on with a second thread. Fig. 4. Bugle beads are sewn on in the same manner, passing the thread through the hole in the bead as in Fig. 5, or stringing them to couch the strand to the fabric as in Fig. 4.
RHINESTONES OR FLAT FACETED JEWELS have a slot at the back, with sometimes another
crossing it. Bring thread up through the fabric and pass through the slot at the back, sewing twice to
fasten it firmly. In sewing beads or sequins on fragile material or on sweaters, place a piece of firmer fabric or crisp muslin underneath to act as a stay support. A transfer design may be marked on tissue paper. Baste tissue in position on right side of material and sew the sequins along design through tissue, material and backing. When finished, tear tissue away close to edge of sequins. Another method for sewing a bead design on a sweater is to stamp the design on organdy and baste it to right side of sweater. Then the beads are sewn in position through organdy and sweater with backstitch. When completed, cut away organdy.
