The VCP Selkie project
Click on bordered photos to see an enlarged view
Cutting out the Ocean Cockpit Forming the Recess Glassing the Recess Building the new Coaming Setting new Coaming The new Seat Finishing Steps |
A lady in my paddling club has an older VCP Selkie that had the standard VCP ocean cockpit. She found it difficult to enter and exit (and somewhat embarassing), so I told her I'd retrofit a keyhole cockpit to the boat. Sounded like a fun project! |
Chapter 1: Cutting out the Ocean Cockpit
11/18/02 Took the jigsaw to the deck of a perfectly good
boat. This came out.
1/2 hour
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Then, I cut a recess out that would accommodate a larger
keyhole cockpit.
1/2 hour--ET 1 hour |
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11/19/02 Then, I filled in the recess area with ash veneer.
Ash will both provide some structure for the wet-out glass, and also be
a structural core material. It will be glassed on both top and bottom.
2 hours--ET 3 hours |
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Chapter 3: Glassing the Recess
11/21/02 The recess was covered with 3 layers of 6 oz. plain weave
cloth.
1/2 hour--ET 3 1/2 hours |
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I got some "Permanent Red" paint pigment from the Home Depot to tint
my resin. A little bit goes a long way, and will save coats of paint
at the end. Note to folks painting the hulls of their wooden boats:
adding a little pigment to your epoxy coats will save paint coats needed
for deep, opaque color.
1/2 hour--ET 4 hours |
Chapter 4: Building the new Coaming
11/18/02 I used the coaming of Anne's Necky Looksha IV HV as the form
for her new coaming. She loves the fit of her Necky, so we figured
there was no reason to pursue anything different. I waxed the coaming,
covered it with PVA mold release, and then masked off the deck.
1/2 hour--ET 4 1/2 hours |
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11/21/02 The coaming was covered with a layer of 6 oz. plain-weave
glass, a layer of 15 oz. biaxial glass, a layer of 15 oz. triaxial carbon,
and a final sacrificial layer of 6 oz. plain-weave.
The fabrics were individually wet out and placed wet. Then, I covered the coaming with plastic wrap and "po-man's vacuum bagged it" with open-cell foam clamped down over the plastic wrap. 2 hours--ET 6 1/2 hours |
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11/22/02 When the clamps and foam were removed, it looked pretty nice
after a little trimming
1/2 hour--ET 7 hours. |
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Chapter 5: Setting the new Coaming
11/23/02 After cutting the recess to receive the new
coaming, the longitudinal curvitures weren't quite the same. I held
the coaming a consistent height above the deck with cedar strip scraps
and clamped it down. When it cured overnight, it had pretty well
set in the correct curve.
Some spots were a little out of fair, so I heated those areas with a heat gun and clamped them into their desired position. The next morning, they were great! I then glued the coaming to the riser with a fillet of epoxy thickened with silica fume. 1 hour--ET 8 hours |
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11/24/02 The coaming is glued in place. I further trimmed
and sanded the coaming, and used some epoxy thickened with silica fume,
glass microballoons, and copier toner for color to fill low spots in the
coaming.
I also added some glass around the coaming at the front and back where there is the most stress on the coaming. A wrap of electrical tape under the coaming helped hold the glass up and press it in place. Kitchen wrap holds the glass smooth along the recess. The top layer of glass "spidered" a little when I flexed it to fit the new boat, so the carbon doesn't show through real pretty...so the coaming will be painted anyway. 1 1/2 hour--ET 9 1/2 hours |
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4/1/03 After it warmed up in my shop again this spring, I sanded the
bottom of the new coaming flush with the underside of the recess, and gave
it 2 layers of 6 oz. glass that lapped onto the original deck.
2 hours--ET 11 1/2 hours Epoxy thickened with baking flour, and tinted with red pigment was used to fair the surface of the deck. 1/2 hour--ET 12 hours |
11/30/02 I drilled the poprivets holding her original
seat in, drilled off the backrest, untied the neoprene seat cover.
Covered the seat with wax, and then 4 layers of 6 oz. glass and epoxy.
My shop vac and a garbage bag were used to vacuum bag the seat.
2 hours--ET 14 hours |
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4/6/03 The seat was then sanded smooth, pinholes filled with thickened
epoxy, and painted matte black (see photo below of seat being glued into
kayak)
1/2 hour--ET 15 1/2 hours |
4/7/03 After fairing and sanding, fairing and sanding, I
painted the recess bright red. It's slightly deeper color than the
oxidized gelcoat (as seen in the right foreground).
1 hours--ET 16 1/2 hours |
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Next, I'll paint the coaming, re-install the backband, and install foam outfitting. |
Shawn's Sea Kayaking Home |
Copyright © 2002 Shawn W. Baker