The VCP Selkie project
Click on bordered photos to see an enlarged view

Cutting out the Ocean Cockpit
Forming the Recess
Glassing the Recess
Building the new Coaming
Setting new Coaming
The new Seat
Finishing Steps
A lady in my paddling club has an older VCP Selkie that had the standard VCP ocean cockpit.  She found it difficult to enter and exit (and somewhat embarassing), so I told her I'd retrofit a keyhole cockpit to the boat.  Sounded like a fun project!

Chapter 1: Cutting out the Ocean Cockpit
 
11/18/02 Took the jigsaw to the deck of a perfectly good boat.  This came out.

1/2 hour
 
 
 

Then, I cut a recess out that would accommodate a larger keyhole cockpit.

1/2 hour--ET 1 hour

Chapter 2: Forming the Recess
 
11/19/02 Then, I filled in the recess area with ash veneer.  Ash will both provide some structure for the wet-out glass, and also be a structural core material.  It will be glassed on both top and bottom.

2 hours--ET 3 hours

Chapter 3: Glassing the Recess
 
11/21/02 The recess was covered with 3 layers of 6 oz. plain weave cloth.

1/2 hour--ET 3 1/2 hours

I got some "Permanent Red" paint pigment from the Home Depot to tint my resin.  A little bit goes a long way, and will save coats of paint at the end.  Note to folks painting the hulls of their wooden boats:  adding a little pigment to your epoxy coats will save paint coats needed for deep, opaque color.

1/2 hour--ET 4 hours

Chapter 4: Building the new Coaming
 
11/18/02 I used the coaming of Anne's Necky Looksha IV HV as the form for her new coaming.  She loves the fit of her Necky, so we figured there was no reason to pursue anything different.  I waxed the coaming, covered it with PVA mold release, and then masked off the deck. 

1/2 hour--ET 4 1/2 hours

 11/21/02 The coaming was covered with a layer of 6 oz. plain-weave glass, a layer of 15 oz. biaxial glass, a layer of 15 oz. triaxial carbon, and a final sacrificial layer of 6 oz. plain-weave.

The fabrics were individually wet out and placed wet.  Then, I covered the coaming with plastic wrap and "po-man's vacuum bagged it" with open-cell foam clamped down over the plastic wrap.

2 hours--ET 6 1/2 hours

11/22/02 When the clamps and foam were removed, it looked pretty nice after a little trimming

1/2 hour--ET 7 hours.

Chapter 5: Setting the new Coaming
 
11/23/02 After cutting the recess to receive the new coaming, the longitudinal curvitures weren't quite the same.  I held the coaming a consistent height above the deck with cedar strip scraps and clamped it down.  When it cured overnight, it had pretty well set in the correct curve.

Some spots were a little out of fair, so I heated those areas with a heat gun and clamped them into their desired position.  The next morning, they were great!

I then glued the coaming to the riser with a fillet of epoxy thickened with silica fume.

1 hour--ET 8 hours

11/24/02  The coaming is glued in place.  I further trimmed and sanded the coaming, and used some epoxy thickened with silica fume, glass microballoons, and copier toner for color to fill low spots in the coaming.

I also added some glass around the coaming at the front and back where there is the most stress on the coaming.  A wrap of electrical tape under the coaming helped hold the glass up and press it in place.  Kitchen wrap holds the glass smooth along the recess.

The top layer of glass "spidered" a little when I flexed it to fit the new boat, so the carbon doesn't show through real pretty...so the coaming will be painted anyway.

1 1/2 hour--ET 9 1/2 hours

4/1/03 After it warmed up in my shop again this spring, I sanded the bottom of the new coaming flush with the underside of the recess, and gave it 2 layers of 6 oz. glass that lapped onto the original deck.

2 hours--ET 11 1/2 hours

Epoxy thickened with baking flour, and tinted with red pigment was used to fair the surface of the deck.

1/2 hour--ET 12 hours

Chapter 6: The new Seat
 
11/30/02 I drilled the poprivets holding her original seat in, drilled off the backrest, untied the neoprene seat cover.  Covered the seat with wax, and then 4 layers of 6 oz. glass and epoxy.  My shop vac and a garbage bag were used to vacuum bag the seat.

2 hours--ET 14 hours

4/6/03 The seat was then sanded smooth, pinholes filled with thickened epoxy, and painted matte black (see photo below of seat being glued into kayak)

1/2 hour--ET 15 1/2 hours

Chapter 7: Finishing Steps
 
4/7/03 After fairing and sanding, fairing and sanding, I painted the recess bright red.  It's slightly deeper color than the oxidized gelcoat (as seen in the right foreground).

1 hours--ET 16 1/2 hours

Next, I'll paint the coaming, re-install the backband, and install foam outfitting.

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Copyright © 2002 Shawn W. Baker