Finding Mystic Spring
On the South Bass Trail
During the 1970's, it took legendary Grand Canyon backpacker, Dr. Harvey Butchart, five attempts to locate the "Mystic Spring" on the South Bass Trail. 

Below are posted Dr. Butchart's trip reports - along with the George Wharton James route description from the year 1900.  The James route description provided some of the only clues for Dr. Butchart  during his search for the illusive spring. 

MYSTIC SPRING TRIP INDEX 
THE MYSTIC SPRING TRAIL   James, George Wharton Circa 1900
MYSTIC SPRING (?)  SPENCER TERRACE  Butchart, Dr. Harvey 02 OCT 1971
SECOND TRY FOR MYSTIC SPRING Butchart, Dr. Harvey 06 NOV 1971
THIRD TRY FOR MYSTIC SPRING Butchart, Dr. Harvey 30 JAN 1972
FOURTH TRY FOR MYSTIC SPRING Butchart, Dr. Harvey 15 APR 1972
MYSTIC SPRING Butchart, Dr. Harvey 06 MAY 1972
SEAL HEAD ROCK NEAR MYSTIC SPRING Butchart, Dr. Harvey 21 APR 1973

THE MYSTIC SPRING TRAIL
By George Wharton James (1900)

STANDING on the brink of the Canyon at Surprise Outlook, after the eye has become accustomed to picking out the numerous objects in the Canyon, it is easy to describe generally the course of the Mystic Spring Trail.

In order to form a general idea as to where we have to go, look down upon Le Conte Plateau towards the edge of Trail Canyon, between Hue-tha-wa-li Plateau and the Grand Scenic Divide.  Seen from above, it presents a comparatively smooth and even surface, and appears to be dotted with a growth of dwarf-looking shrubs.  Between us and the plateau a slope of talus extends, of sixty or seventy degrees, for a depth of fifteen hundred or sixteen hundred feet, when it breaks off on the summit of a perpendicular wall of rock nine hundred feet in height.

The trail begins not more than a yard from where we stand.  One step and we are upon it.  It glides down eastward for nearly a mile on the face of this talus without a “zag” in it, and then zigzags for a short distance until a natural stream bed is reached.  This is in the more solid portion of the cross-bedded sandstone.  Near this point, a little below the trail, on the left, are two natural tanks or reservoirs, which catch the water as it races down the steep slopes after a shower, and thus stores it for future use.  When these tanks were found by Mr. Bass they were completely filled with the debris that, for years, had been allowed to wash in and accumulate.  Now that they are cleaned out, well cemented, and carefully covered, they will hold several hundred barrels of water, the value of which in the dry season it is impossible to estimate.

Leaving the tanks and crossing this slight rocky ravine, the trail follows along the brink of a precipice until the so-called "Cliff-dwelling" is reached. 

I am inclined to the belief that this is nothing more than a corn storage house, a score or more of which are found in the Havasu Canyon, especially in its upper reaches...

PAGE 148 - On the Mystic Spring Trail. Photo by George Wharton James, 1899
As Le Conte Plateau and the region beyond was once the wandering ground and pasturage of certain Havasupai families, and they made their home in the interior of the Canyon, it is reasonable to assume that, near to their water cisterns, they would construct this food storehouse, where they could place their corn, dried peaches, dried pumpkins, dried meat, and other eatables during their short absences.

A little distance from the cliff corn-house the trail reaches a sort of break, down the face of the cross-bedded sandstone, where it descends in a zigzag course, back and forth, until Le Conte Plateau is reached.

Here the surface presents an entirely different appearance from what we saw twenty-five hundred feet above.  It is broken and covered with mounds of earth and rock, while huge boulders are distributed over it.  The shrubs have grown into a forest of fair-sized trees, and while from the rim it looked as though travelling would be easy, and that one could see all around him, it is found that if the trail is left - it is an easy matter to lose one’s self among the trees and upheaved earth and rocks.

We are in no hurry to reach the river, so let us see all we can, leisurely and easily, on the three out-thrust plateaus, before climbing Hue-tha-wa-li or descending Trail Canyon. As before noted, the easterly out-thrust of Le Conte Plateau is called the Grand Scenic Divide. From its summit one may look sheer down three thousand feet or more and see the dirty river scouring the rocks and roaring along on its way to the Gulf of California, at the rate of what seems to be from ten to sixty miles an hour. But though we have descended nearly three thousand feet, our view of the river is so limited that one may cover it from sight with three fingers of the hand.

To the right towers Havasupai Point, three thousand feet above us.  At its base stands a great symmetrical pillar shaped like Cleopatra’s Needle in Central Park, New York, but six hundred feet high.  The Divide swings around a quarter circle and shows that it is a gigantic mass of red sandstone and marble, as symmetrically built up as though done by a master mason, and away up on its weird side there is revealed to the spectator a monster monogram, “ G. A. R.”

PAGE 150 - The Colorado River from near Duck Pillar on the Grand Scenic Divide. Photo by F.H. Maude, 1899 We ride out to the point and there obtain a long view of the river deep down in the Inner Gorge of granite...
and, as we stand by the side of Dick Pillar, we feel that the indefatigable baker of Thurso, whose researches formed such valuable contributions to geological science, has here a monument more grand, noble, and enduring than any that his admirers could have erected to his honor.

Returning now to the central or Hue-tha-wa-li (Mount Observation) Plateau, we essay the climb to the summit of the mountain from which the plateau gains its name.  There is no trail here. It is pure climbing, and none will undertake it except those who love hard work and the marvellous view the summit affords.  As we slowly take each step upwards we feel that we must find some ancient temple on reaching the top. What a site for one!

The gods themselves have hewn out this mountain as a magnificent pedestal, upon which reverent worshippers might place their temple and altars thereupon to offer constant worship and sacrifice. Then we ride out towards Mystic Spring, passing on the way a curious freak of erosion known as Seal Head Rock.

It covers the interior canyon prospect in every direction.  As a place of defensive retreat it would be absolutely impregnable.  Only on the narrowest and most precarious of paths could the summit be attained, and the will of a score of brave and determined men could have kept the whole armies of the world in check, had such a conflict occurred before firearms were discovered.

Yonder, across the river, the keen eyes of our guide discern a mountain sheep, and we level our field glasses upon him.

It is a great sight, to witness the flight of a band of "Big Horns," or mountain sheep, on the steep slopes of the Grand Canyon.  You would think not -even mountain sheep could keep their foothold, much less run at full speed on this sloping talus, so plentifully bestrewn with boulders; but they do it with perfect ease, and apparently with no consciousness of fear.  They are wonderfully crafty, and it is hard to get near enough to shoot them, or with several companions surround, so as to entrap them.  When they are driven to frenzy by apparent hopelessness of escape, they will dash to the edge of great precipices, and without hesitation jump down, often landing on their skulls, rather than their feet.  A roll or two, and they are up and off, and in your astonishment at this negro-like acrobatic feat you lose all chance of shooting them.

It is on Le Conte Plateau, in the region of Hue-tha-wa-li, that many and various evidences of the use of this plateau as the home of the Indians are to be found.  There are mescal pits, so long forsaken that they are buried under the talus of rock which has fallen; others, in the centre and on the sides of which huge trees have crown.  There are storage houses in the cliffs where corn and other foods were placed, and houses occupied by the Indians themselves. Indeed, there are a few of these houses where the Havasupais yet come and live while they are making mescal, or gathering it to take away.

Even on the igneous rocks down in the very inmost recesses of the Canyon, similar evidences of human occupancy exist, and the Havasupais speak of them all as the residences of their forefathers.

Descending Mount Observation, we stand in interested amazement before "Balanced Rock," a huge mass of stone weighing many tons, the base of which has so disintegrated as to leave the upper and more solid portion resting upon the slightest possible foundation.  While it does not "swing" - as do the balanced rocks of Cornwall - it appears so much like them as to justify the name.

Now we may ride out to the point of Mount Observation (Hue-tha-wa-li) Plateau, where the view is similar to the one enjoyed from the Grand Scenic Divide, or shall have shortly from the Mystic Spring Plateau, the westernmost offshoot from Le Conte Plateau.  We look down the vast recesses of Copper Canyon and see a score of "El Capitans" in the red marble walls on either side.

Then we ride out towards Mystic Spring, passing on the way a curious freak of erosion known as Seal Head Rock. PAGE 153 - Seal Head Rock near Mystic Spring. Photo by George Wharton James, 1899
It was Captain Burro who led Mr. Bass to Mystic Spring, whose existence he had no, known, but  which all his most careful searchings could never find.  They had become great friends, and Burro had learned that this white man had, so far, been true to all his promises.  So, one day, after Mr. Bass had returned from another wearisome, disheartening, and futile search, Burro said, “ Billy, you give me a sack of flour and half a beef, and I show you my spring, and you can always use it for yourself and your horses.” The transfer of the property was made, and Mr. Bass was taken to the spring, which, to his great amazement, was so near to where he had searched in vain for it, that he could have thrown a pebble into it.  Hence, the name he had already given to it - long before he saw it - the Mystic Spring. And it is mystic in more ways than one. 
PAGE 155 - Burros drinking at Mystic Spring. Photo by George Wharton James, 1899  Its curative properties in cases of dyspepsia, as well as the singular manner in which it seems to ooze out of the solid rock, make the name most appropriate.  Now and again it disappears entirely.
Standing at the spring in front of us is a yawning abyss whose bottom is floored with the rocks of ages, and whose sides are perpendicular walls of rock. To our right is a deeper abyss of the same style of architecture.  To our left, a still deeper one, the deepest one so far seen, and through which we obtain another view of the river. This is Mystic Amphitheatre.

At the extreme north end of Mystic Spring Plateau, we look into the amphitheatre named the "Ruins of Paradise." (on account of its towers and turrets and the transcendent coloring of its lofty vertical walls, which recalled Milton’s description of the walls of heaven and the great difficulty the arch fiend found in scaling them.)

Here, in the Ruins of Paradise, is the region of chromes and Naples yellows, the blues, and the delicate shades of browns and grays.

It is when you are among the shales and slates, and where the serpentine marble lies, that these exquisite colors reveal themselves in all their glory.  These do not appear everywhere.  They are not dominant, insistent, like the reds.  It is only when you seek them out, in such secluded nooks as this, that you can enjoy to the full their unique revelry of coloring.

Then, too, the luminous haze, which generally may be observed everywhere in the Canyon in the early morning, or late afternoon hours, is nowhere so luminous and radiantly beautiful as down here.  It seems to take upon itself from these rich and glowing colors some of their glory, so that the two effects combine to make an unequalled scene of transcendent gorgeousness.

Click to continue this account 
which descends to the Colorado River via the S. Bass Trail.


Mystic Spring (?) and Spencer Terrace 
By Dr. Harvey Butchart --- 02 October 1971

With Mystic Spring shown on the old west half map and with the picture in James' IN AND AROUND THE GRAND CANYON, I thought it would be a simple matter to locate the site with a shot that would duplicate the one in James.  I had been by the spot before without seeing anything, but according to Edwin McKee, the spring has been dry for many years, but now I wanted to pinpoint the same rocks shown in the photo.

The day was clear and cool but it had rained on Wednesday and from the puddles near the village, I was dubious about the road through Pasture Wash.  Out here the road was dry and no new water had run into the tank 20 miles west of the village.  Rocks on the last part of the drive to the Bass Trailhead seemed threatening to tires, but there is no danger of getting stuck. I drove from the pavement to Bass Camp in 1 and 1/4 hours.

On a previous trip down the Bass Trail, I photographed what I took to be a ruined dam built by Bass in the bed of the wash where the trail reaches the Coconino.  I have never seen this again and I suppose it has been removed by a flood.  I was careful to watch for the ruins to the east of the trail where it starts down the Coconino.  On my return I had a bit of extra time and I climbed up to the high ones directly above where the trail starts down.  The best preserved is well camouflaged and the last few rest to it require a hand and toe climb.  James thought that these are mere storage bins, but this one has an intact door big enough to crawl through and it is long enough for a man to lie In.  If the roof rested on the present wall, it would offer head room only for sitting up.

There are a lot more carins to mark the trail than when I first used it.  There is a large cairn with a tree trunk held in the center where the regular trail and the Esplanade Trail to the west join, but more often than not I have missed this junction. With all the now cairns, I was led right to it.  When I was coming back this way in the fall of 1969, I went up into the bay west of Fossil Mountain instead of the one having the trail.  This time I studied the appearance of the right one so that I would never make that mistake again.  Where the wash comes over the Coconino fall, there In the usual black band, but in the right bay there is a broad white patch near the top of the black.

I wanted to go to Mystic Spring via the route shown on the Matthes-Evans map around the west aide of Mt. Huethawali.  I stayed on the regular trail until I was past the head of the cutoff near the south end of Bass Canyon and then I went down across the shallow ravine to climb to the top of the Esplanade south of Mt. Huethawali  Were I crossed the ravine I encountered two and possibly three mescal pits close together. Walking is raster where the map shows the old trail because of the blackbrush on the slope closer to Mt. Huethawali.  There is still enough burro use to maintain trails through here.

As I approached the west and of the ravine heading at the south end of Spencer Terrace, I reviewed the picture from James of the burros drinking at Mystic spring.  The map was studied carefully right on the spot, but I couldn't locate the picture even though I considered three levels.  When I read the text in James I begin to wonder whether the map places Mystic Spring correctly.  James refers to the Mystic Spring  Plateau as the western most offshoot of the La Conte Plateau.  I take it that the latter Is called the Darwin Plateau on the map.  James speaks about looking down into Copper Canyon and then riding out towards Mystic Spring.  This would imply that they were going around the east and north side of Mt. Huethawali to the spring which was west of its location on the map.  I also looked for Seal Head Rock, shown by James on page 153 with no luck, from the base of Spencer Terrace to the east and south.

To use my time and get some great views, I walked to the north end of Spencer. Three days after the rain there was water In the depressions on the bare rocks especially where the surface dips before the final rise to the north.  The air was clear and I could see an amazing panorama, but only one spot of the river, at the mouth of Walthenberg.


Second Try for Mystic Spring
By Dr. Harvey Butchart --- 06 November 1971

After being unable to locate the photo site for Mystic Spring where the Matthes-Evans map showed it, I reread James and learned that the spring was near the west end of the terrace at the base of Mt. Huethawali.  Perhaps his running account of going out on the Grand Scenic Divide, then climbing Mt. Huethawali, then going to see Mystic Spring, and after that descending to the river, should not be taken as a single day's trip in just that order. When one comes down from Huethawali it would be natural to go directly west to Mystic Spring instead of east, north, and them west. However, James speaks of looking down into Copper Canyon before going west to the end of La Conte Plateau.  I figured that with this routing, I could watch for the seal head rock and go to the westernmost extremity of the plateau and walk right to the photo site for Mystic Spring.

The weather turned out fine and I got started west from the Visitors Center about 8:20 AM. The road was in good shape still in spite of our wet October In Flagstaff, and I reached the Bass Trailhead in 55 minutes.  This was hitting the bumps rather hard.  It would be better to allow at least five minutes more for the drive.  There was a little fresh snow on the trail but It didn't slow me down. There was even some snow left in the shade as far down as the Supai.  Walking steadily, I reached the stick in the large cairn on the esplanade in 35 minutes.

This time I went around the east and north side of Huethawali.  I noticed a couple of beaten down mescal pits before crossing the wash which forms the upper end of Garnet Canyon, and I also noticed the mescal pits that are below the Supai cliff on the west side of the ravine. There were fresh burro tracks along here, but the storm had erased the vibram sole prints I had seen a month ago.  It was easier and faster to got to where the map had shown Mystic Spring by this route rather than to use the way shown on the map.  The burro trail continued west along the rim, and I began to wonder whether perhaps Mystic Spring had begun to flow again and that I would be led to it by the burros.  I had no such luck.  I walked and climbed along the west edge of the terrace at a couple of levels but didn't see the seal head nor the place where the picture had been taken.  If there was an earthquake, perhaps Seal Head Rock is no more. The edge of the plateau is broken up into a jumble of red blocks and it is interesting to scramble through the chaos.

Views of Apache Point, Wheeler Point, and even Stanton Point are great and one can see the lower part of Garnet Canyon where the Tonto Trail ends and the obscure prospector's trail crosses the wash. However, as I stood on the spot and read the description by James, I came to the conclusion that he was letting his imagination go. The basin he calls "Ruins of Paradise" doesn't have towers and turrets and I couldn't see all the unusual colors he puts there.  I also couldn't see that the abyss on the south side of the point was deeper than the others and I am sure that he could not see the river.

I had expected water in the hollows of the bare rocks, but this time the exposed surfaces were dry.  Just down from the rim in an angular break there was some snow water left and I used it for my lunch.  I was so thrifty with my canteen that I carried more than half of my two quarts back to the rim at 3:00 PM.

There was still some time so I tried getting down through the Supai into the Garnet Canyon drainage.  This took some careful route finding and the use of cracks behind the big blocks.  When I had only one more big ledge between me and the bed through which one could walk down to the Redwall rim, I found that I had to go east and across to the south side when I came to the bedrock in the wash.  Both above and below here there was quite a bit of water caught in pockets.  Burros had trails down to the water and I was able to go back to the Bass Trail mostly on these.  I was near my lowest point, 3/4 of the way through the Supai about 1:30 PM and reached the truck by 3:00 PM.


Third Try for Mystic Spring
By Dr. Harvey Butchart --- 20 January 1972

I was more than half convinced that the map location, from JohnWaltenberg, of Mystic Spring should be correct. Bob Packard went with me and took a keen interest in the old sport of picture identification. When I suggested that we might be close to the site for the picture on page 148 of the James book, he recognized at once the rocks in the foreground. We made good time down the trail, which was free of snow, although the day was quite cold.

First we looked carefully at the place where the map showed Mystic Spring and Bob led me down a couple of levels below where I had looked before. Then, paying attention to the phrase, "standing in front of the spring," on page 154, we went north to the first extension of Spencer Terrace to the west. We couldn't see the river from here, so it was not the place that James was describing, but we found several very deep water pockets holding a great deal of water, the only places like this that we saw for the day.

Next we went north around the bay to the full western reach of the terrace. Here we had a good view of the river south of Garnet Canyon and the valleys below seemed to agree with the James account. There was much gray and purplish sandstone below to the north. We ate lunch at a place that had a superficial resemblance to the spot where the burros were drinking at Mystic Spring, but the real identification was still lacking. We went a little further north and then doubled back along the south side of a bold Supai cliff. There was a definite seep spring here with one icicle and several drips, but the place did not match the book picture. A little further to the east we found a couple of good mescal pits.

We were now ready to give up the search for Mystic Spring, but I wanted to prove that the picture on page 102 had the wrong caption. 

We set out at a good clip for the Grand Scenic Divide. At first Bob was hard to convince. He thought that the mountain in the Maude picture was also fossil mountain, but as we got further north on the Grand Scenic Divide, he became more and more sure that I was right. Time was running out and we didn't get the foreground to check, but we were sure that we had identified the mountain as Huethawali.
 

PAGE 102 - Fossil Mountain, by F.H. Maude, 1899
When we started from the bass trailhead, we saw a VW van parked there, and down on the Grand Scenic Divide we found fresh footprints. A solo hiker had preceded us. There was a distinct burro trail going along the Hermit below Fossil Mountain. East below the divide we could see two stretches of the river, one of which was Serpentine Rapid. The day was calm and we could just make out the roar of the rapid. 

As I was walking along the level top of the divide, I was wondering where the hole goes through (the spot of light that can be seen from the Bass Trail below the Redwall.) If I am ever down there again, I should try to remember the location of the hole.

When Bob and I turned back toward the trail from near the end of the divide, it was 2:45 PM, and I predicted that it might take us until 4:30 PM to reach the trailhead. We were both in good shape and the day was invigorating. We arrived at the vehicle by 4:00 PM. We had gone up the final 500 vertical feet in only 15 minutes.

Although we had failed in our main objective, we had reproduced two of the pictures in James and had found two water sources and some mescal pits. Both Spencer and the Grand Scenic Divide furnish unsurpassed views.


Fourth Try for Mystic Spring
By Dr. Harvey Butchart --- 15 April 1972

My color slide of the picture in the album belonging to Bill Bass finally came from the processing lab and I was sure I could go right where the parallax would be right and find the old spring site.  The reproduction of the original B&W picture was rather imperfect, but I thought I could line up the skyline with the right part of Huethawali and also get the rim of the Esplanade in the right place.

One thing that was absolutely certain from the picture is that the spring couldn't have been where it was shown on the old west half map and also on Dock's reproduction of a map where Whaltenburg had placed it, exactly where the Matthes-Evans map had put it.

Saturday turned out to be a perfect day for a hike, clear but cold enough to preserve some snow in the shade at the level of the rim.  I had thought about the possibility that I would need more than 2 quarts of water for a full day of hiking, but my worries were over when I found rainwater in the pockets on the Esplanade.  There was a little at the top of the Supai in Garnet Canyon and lots of good pockets, some deep enough to immerse the canteen, on the went side of Spencer Terrace as I approached the broad north end.

At this distance north of Huethawali, the south rim was lined up at the right position on the west profile of the mountain, but I could see that I needed to be lower than the top of the Supai to got the level rim of the Esplanade across the mountain close to the bottom of the Coconino. I also couldn't see any good candidates for the foreground in the picture.  At first I went down to the west at the neck just south of the wide north end of Spencer.  Than I followed a burro trail to the west, at the level just below the top of the terrace, until I could see the river about a mile upriver from Elves Chasm.  This is the area that fits best  the description given by James in the book IN AND AROUND THE GRAND CANYON.  This area was disqualified by the position of the skyline against Huethawali. I could also see that I needed to be quite a bit lower to get the rim of the Esplanade right.  I didn't go right to where Bob Packard and I had eaten lunch, although the foreground in the picture had some similarity with that vicinity.

To get lower, I went high and walked to the east to descend at the neck.  I passed the spring Bob and I had found. It was still dripping very slowly.  To record its location, I took a picture that paralleled the cliff and showed Wheeler Point in the background and a large pinyon in front of the spring.  I also faced the other way for a second picture and, showed Havasupai Point and Fossil Mountain as the background. I would like to go through the rest of Bill Bass’s album and see whether there are any similar pictures that would serve as locators of the spring called Mystic.

Back at the neck just south of the wide north end of Spencer I was able to descend although it took some care and route finding.  I worked my way west at the foot of the massive cliff at what appeared to be about the right height for the perspective in the picture, but I couldn't see anything remotely resembling the right foreground.  There was also the difficulty that I couldn't recognize any of the features showing in the picture on the face of the cliff rimming the Esplanade in front of Huethawali.  The north side of Huethawali agreed with the picture, but this was all I could recognize as being right.

For the rest of my time I worked my way west and down to the middle of the Supai where there is a well-established burro trail.  Around below the northwest corner of Spencer Terrace the burro trail goes to a rare break, a fault zone, and goes lower.  I would have liked to go down to the Redwall rim for views of the river and then go around into Garnet Canyon where I know it is possible to get up to the Bass Trail, but time was running out.  I found a way and got up on the north side of Spencer. The natural route back led by the spring near the two mescal pits Bob and I had found.


Mystic Spring
By Dr. Harvey Butchart --- 06 May 1972

After studying the picture I had duplicated from the one in Bill Bass' album, George Billingsley had gone right to the place.  You can easily walk along the pavement of bare Supai west of the highest part of Spencer Terrace to where the rim turns sharply to the west as the end of the terrace widens.  Doc Jon Thomas also had told me that Bass used to have a camp under an overhang near here, but I had been along here twice before without seeing anything that was like the pictures.  Even with the picture showing Mt. Huethawali in the background, I couldn't tell which way I should move to get the foreground right.

Billingsley gave me quite explicit instructions, so I knew that I should be down about 20 degrees below the broad pavement that forms the west rim of the neck and then walk to the south.  I found the place he mentioned that is rather hard to pass, a projection that gives very little shelf for walking.  Beyond this point I could see that I was at the right place.  The skyline on both sides of Huethawali was right and the foreground rocks matched too.  Directly ahead under a fine overhang was the old Bass camp with three pails lying around.  There were some walls that may have been to form a terrace.  Leading away from one side of the overhang was a small cave about six feet deep where some one had left a blue plastic air mattress.  North of the overhang is an intriguing tunnel that leads to a circular pit in the 20 feet high sandstone.  It is big enough to accommodate two or three small redbud trees.

The spring itself is about 20 yards south of the overhang.  According to the picture in James' book, the main pool of the spring was quite close to the 20 foot cliff, but now this area is covered with soil.  The only water now seeps from the base of a 2 foot ledge that forms the west border of the places where the burros in the James picture are drinking.  As George had said, there is a cup or two of water in a little basin about 1/2 inch deep by 6 inches across.  The rock down slope from this little basin was wet, but there was no perceptible flow.  About a yard to the south there was another wall seep, but this water merely kept the soil wet.

There is another wall outlining part of a room quite close to the spring and a constructed trail leads south of the spring along the ledge until it reaches a break where it goes up on the bare pavement.  There is a fairly distinct burro trail south along Spencer Terrace.

Walking down from the rim and around the north side of Huethawali is mostly easy.  Without hurrrying, I came from the rim to the vicinity of the spring in about 90 minutes.

All of the water that I had found standing in holes along the pavement as one approaches the spring was dried up.  I didn't go to the other seep northwest of here to see whether the slow drips were still active.

Evidence that the Indians used the whole area isn't hard to find.  Besides the ruins one passes near where the trail starts down through the Coconino, there are mescal pits in at least four locations. The first one is about 50 yards northwest of the big cairn where the trail comes to the base of the Hemit Shale.  The next pair are west of the trail where it turns north along the north branch of Garnet Canyon.  The next cluster Is above the west base of Spencer Terrace where It joins the main plateau north of Huethawali.  There is another pair near the seep spring near the southwest part of the wide north end of Spencer Terrace.

After having a leisurely lunch at Mystic Spring, I climbed down about a third of the way through the formation and walked the broad bare pavement to the south.  I wanted to check for any other water sources.  Although there were many places where the rock was stained white by old seeps, I don't think there was any other spring.  Then I walked out to the end of Huxley Terrace and got a fine view of Shinumo Creek.  I hustled to get back from the end of Huxley to the rim between 2:15 and 4:00 PM. There I had the pleasure of a second visit with Mike Armour, his wife, and two friends, It took me 2 1/2 hours to drive from Bass Camp home.


Seal Head Rock Near Mystic Spring
By Dr. Harvey Butchart --- 21 April 1973

I told Betty and Roger Field where Mystic Spring is located and confessed that I couldn't locate Seal Head Rock, shown on p. 153 of IN AND AROUND THE GRAND CANYON by James.  On their one and only visit to Mystic Spring and the Bass Camp just around the point to the north, they came back with the location of Seal Head Rock.  They told me that it isn't a landmark standing above the prevailing level of the Esplanade as I had thought.  It is inconspicuous since it is in line with the rest of the Supai rim rocks and is about 75 yards south of the spring, right where the trail south from the spring turns left to go up on the open area that forms the surface of the Esplanade.

With this sort of information, it was no trick at all to find the site.  It was the first time this season when I thought that the road west from the village might be safe, especially since I now have the assurance of being able to sift shift into 4-wheel drive in the Jimmy.  The road was quite rough, and it was still a bit muddy in a few places, but when I reached Bass Camp, I found that various 2-wheelers had made it.  There were about five vehicles parked there.

Although showers and wind had been forecast, the day was fine.  I got from the Visitors Center to the trailhead in about an hour and 30 minutes and started down at 9:30 AM.  There was very little snow on the trail, and when there was some, other hikers had trampled tracks that had Melted to the bare ground.  I had intended to bring my black & white picture of what I had thought was a bit of a dam built by W.W.Bass to catch water in the bed of the first draw.  I had taken this on 7/6/58, but I have never been able to spot any remains of a dam since then.  I want to go down this trail at least once more, so I hope I'll remember to carry the picture the next time.

The trail is well marked by cairns now and it gets enough use to make it clear.  At the narrowest part of the ridge separating Bass Canyon from Garnet Canyon I met two hikers, Jo Anne Varnum and Eric Oleson.  We had quite a little visit and they were glad to meet the author of the guide, GRAND CANYON TREKS, and I was gratified to meet some more people who liked it.  They asked about Indian ruins and were chagrinned to realize that they had walked past the ones up in the Toroweap without noticing them.  I also told them where to look for mescal pits.  One is just to the west of the trail and south of the east arm of Garnet.  I noticed it as I passed when I was going down, but I walked right past without seeing it on the return.  There are two big ones below the Supai rim on the west side of the north arm of Garnet.

I followed the trail as it skirts to the west of the head of Bass Canyon but branched off toward the right slope of Huethawali.  This is south of the juniper and pinyon trees in a clearing covered by blackbrush.  Naturally I followed a bit of a trail and paused just before the route was leaving the flat and starting up the broken ledges. I may have been right by here before, but this time I noticed two clear outlines of rooms.  Part of the walls are still 2 feet high and show a right angle.  They are about 50 yards north of where a shallow ravine comes down to this flat. Something I didn't notice until I was coming back from Mystic Spring and was trying to locate the two rooms again was another mescal pit.  It is about 100 yards north of the rooms.

When I was near Mystic Spring I found the hole in the rocks that has the tunnel going out on the level of the camp.  I climbed down setting some assistance from the redbud tree in the bottom. The spring was flowing about as It was last spring at this time, but there is no basin.  One should chisel a basin in the sandstone or build a dam.  I found Seal Head Rock and took care to line up everything as in the picture by James.  A few yards Southeast of the rock is a neat little natural bridge, about 7 feet in span by 4 feet high with a couple of yards of space behind.

Since we were having a couple of friends for dinner at 6:30, I had to start back.  I found that I still can cover the ground about as well as ever, and I reached the car by 3:00 PM.  I got home a bit after six.

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