Lowering Spring Install
Lowering the Thunderbird is a simple process, and will not only make the car look better, but also improve handling and performance. Lowering the center of gravity will reduce body roll, and most springs are made stiffer for more responsive control. I have chosen to go with the Intrax 2" Drop springs, since other manufactures like Eibach only provide a 1.5" drop.

Front Springs


Of course the first thing do to is support the vehicle safely on jack stands; everybody should know this. Which end to start on is up to the installer, front or rear, doesnt make a difference.


Removing the strut assemblies is a simple process, and only two bolts, and three nuts will need to be taken off. The first bolt should be the one that holds the spindle to the upper control arm. Wd40 should help loosen up this bolt, and a ball joint tool may help. Otherwise, use a large mallet and hit upwards on the upper control arm. If the bolt is still stubborn, try prying between the spindle knuckle, and banging it with a hammer to loosen the rust. Once this bolt has been removed, the lower strut to lower control arm bolt may be removed, as well as the three nuts holding the top of the strut to the shock tower inside the engine compartment. ( Other installation articles I've read say to remove the sway bar endlink, this is not necessary. )


These are the struts once they have been taken out of the vehicle. The picture on the left also shows the rear shocks, and the picture on the right compares a factory strut assembly to the new one. Notice they are simular in height, but the new one will compress lower once installed. To swap the springs, they may either be taken to a shop with a wall mounted spring compressor, or you can try removing them yourself. If you decide to remove them yourself, be sure to have a Strut Spring compressor tool. Mark the alignment points on the top of the spring and mount, and remove the center nut. Be sure to align the spring to the same point before putting the top back on, because the bolts on the top are different on each side of the vehicle.


Once the struts are ready, they may be installed just as easily as they were removed. First by bolting up the lower control arm to strut bolt, then by using a jack, lift the assembly into position, and install both the three nuts on the top of the shock tower, and the spindle to upper control arm bolt. Use the hammer to push the ball joint into the spindle knuckle. Again, be sure the struts are being installed on the correct side, or the lower control arm to lower strut will be off centered.


Rear Springs



Just the same as with the front, make sure to safely raise and support the vehicle, and take the wheels off. First remove the bolt holding the shock to the lower control arm. Using the jack, raise the lower control arm to take the tension off of the sway bar endlink, so the nut may be taken off. The two bolts for the lower control arm will also need to come out.


Once these bolts have been removed, the jack can be lowered to relieve tension on the spring. The lower control arm will need to be pushed downwards by standing on it, while pulling the spring downwards and out.


This is a shot of the new springs, and a comparison of the old springs to the new ones. Notice how much shorter the Intrax spring is compared to the factory one. The rubber insulators on each end of the springs may be re-used if the rubber is in good condition. White lithium grease should be applied as well, and new rubber insulators may be purchased for $40 if necessary.


Re-install the springs, and use the jack to raise the lower control arm so all bolts may be put back into place. Once all four springs have been installed on the vehicle, the alignment will be slightly off. Allow the springs between a couple days and a week to settle before having the car re-aligned by a shop. Over time, the springs may compress further, as my 2" Drop springs turned out to be 3" lower than factory after being installed for 5 years.



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