The archipelago of St. Kilda is situated in the North Atlantic 115 miles (185 kms) off the mainland of Scotland at 57°49'N 8°31'W. The archipelago¹ comprises the four small islands of Hirta , Dun , Soay and Boreray and the sea stacs of Stac an Armin, Stac Lee and Stac Levenish. The group is 41 miles (61 km) west of North Uist in the Outer Hebrides.

St. Kilda contains magnificent sea cliffs, teeming sea bird colonies, and remains of past human settlement. The largest colony of gannets in Europe breeds on Boreray and its nearby stacs. There are also large numbers of guillemots and kittiwakes. The most numerous bird is the puffin.

Hirta, the main island, was nearly continously inhabited by humans for approximately 2,000 years from the beginning of the Common Era until 1930. There is evidence of Neolithic, Celtic and Norse habitation.

For approximately 500 years the islands were owned by a member of the MacLeod Clan based on the Isle of Skye. Because of declining economic conditions little rent was actually paid to the laird in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In 1932 the isles were sold by the laird, Sir Reginal MacLeod, to the Marquis of Bute. The at his death the Marquis bequeathed to the National Trust for Scotland. The National Trust has leased the isles to the Nature Conservancy for a wildlife refuge. In 1957 the isles were designated a National wildlife refuge giving official protection to the flora and fauna. More recently the island group has been designated a United Nations World Heritage Site . A colony of primitive Soay sheep live on Hirta, the largest island, Soay. The Boreray sheep breed originated on the neighboring small isle of Boreray. The largest Gannet rookeries in the world exist in the St. Kilda group. There a several other bird colonies, notably puffins.

"From Hirta to Boreray" by William Neill S.W.L.A. Hirta and Soay viewed southward from Boreray

In modern times (since 1697) the population never exceeded 200 persons. A smallpox outbreak in 1724 reduced the population to c. 30 from which it gradually recovered to roughly 100 through natural growth and immigration from other Scottish isles. In 1851 and 1856 two groups of St. Kildans emigrated to Australia reducing the population by approximately 30%. By the late-middle 19th Century emigration and a high (80%-90%) infant mortality rate reduced the number of residents to just under 80 in 1900. Following World War I the population dropped sharply due to emigration and a difficult economic situation until the population was no longer self-sustaining. The remaining population of 36 persons were evacuated to Scotland at their own request on August 29, 1930.

During World War I the Royal Navy maintained an observer post on Hirta from 1914 until it closed in 1919. This position was attacked by the German Navy on May 18, 1918. During World War II United Kingdom forces used the islands as an anchorage, emergency airfield and made occasional shore visits. Following World War II the islands were uninhabited again until 1957. In that year a small part of Hirta became a support site for a military missile test range, modern buildings were built to house the base and the pier extended to support larger ships. During the summer of 1998 the military closed its operations at Hirta. The Nature Conservancy has retained several of the military buildings for its work while radar and other electronic equipment has been removed.

The current population is seasonal. With the recent closure of the military facility there is no permanent population. Access is restricted to sponsored scientists and members of expeditions sponsored by the National Trust and its related organizations. Some buildings in the old village have been rehabilitated. Archaeological investigations have revealed traces of Norse, Celtic and pre-Celtic peoples. There are a number of ancient Christian and Druid sites predating the Viking activity that began about 900 A.D.

Thompson, Francis, St. Kilda and other Hebridean Outliers, New York, Praeger Publishers 1970.

MacLean, Charles, Island on the Edge of the World, New York, Taplinger Publishing Company 1972.

¹ Size and maximum elevations of the St. Kilda Islands. Total land area is 2,112 acres, 3.30 sq. miles, or 8.45 sq. km.

Hirta - 1,575 acres, 1,397'
Soay - 244 acres, 1,225'

Boreray - 189 acres, 1,245'
Dun - 79 acres, 576'
Stac Lee - 6 acres, 544'

Stac an Armin - 13 acres, 627'
Stac Levenish - 6 acres, 185'

Comments to Phil Abbey at pr_abbey@hotmail.com. Uploaded Oct. 1, 1997. Revised Sept. 7, 2000.