Engine Removal


Recommended Tools:
1. Helms Manual: Has torque specs, wiring diagrams, and the proper steps to remove the old engine.
2. Deep wall sockets: These are needed to remove the motor mount nuts.
3. Pliers: For removing hoses of various sizes.
4. Hoist & leveler: Using a hoist is the easiest way to remove and install an engine. The leveler is great for lowering the B18 in at an angle.
5. Hoist chains, hooks, and rings
6. T-handle ratchet: Very useful for tightening the rear motor mount because of the limited amount of room.
7. Torque wrench
8. Set of metric wrenches and sockets
9. Hammer and wood: This was used to remove the lower ball joint after jacking up the car.

10. Breaker bar
The stock airbox is fastened to the throttle body by a rubber ring. Just keep twisting and pulling the box until it comes out..
Civic axles removed. I used a pickle fork, wedged it between the boot and tranny, then smacked it to pop them out.
The bitch pin is usually very difficult to remove because of all the rust that builds up. I was lucky with mine because this car's been garaged since I got it about 7 years ago. A couple hits with the hammer got it loose.
This is all I used to remove the bitch pin: hammer, goggles, and a bolt that fit in the shift linkage hole. Anytime you're hammering stuff under the car, it's a very good idea to use safety goggles. This part of the swap requires patience because each hit of the hammer only pushes the pin about half a millimeter! Be careful when it pops out because crap will fly all over your face. That's why you need goggles to protect your eyes.
Once you get the linkages out, here's how they look. You'll need the Integra linkages (below) because it's longer than the Civic ones(above).
After making sure all hoses, wires, and mounts were disconnected we were able to pull the D16 out.
Here's the old D16. Can't chuck it yet, there's some important plugs and mounts on there that need to go on the new B18. The entire wire harness will go on to the B18 as well.

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