Unlike syrians, dwarves thrive in the presence of one or more cage-mates. In their case, three or more is NOT a crowd- as long as there is enough cage space for each of them.
Dwarf hamsters usually live between 1 and 1 1/2 years. They are active mostly late at night, but are also active during the day- giving their human friends time to play with them. While dwarves are just as curious about their surroundings as syrians are, I have found that they are better able to entertain themselves within their cages than syrians, because they so heavily depend on their cagemates for companionship and entertainment. Dwarves are social- they NEED at least one cage-mate!
Fighting/Bickering:
If you've owned dwarves for any length of time, you have heard the "bickering" that is inevitable between them. Dwarves are VERY vocal, and will let the world know when they are irritated or annoyed, or being physically challenged by a cagemate. Most of the time, this "fighting" is normal and harmless. It is usually done to establish dominance between cagemates- and will continue throughout their lives. After observing several months of this behavior in my dwarves, I have determined that they have VERY short memories, since they seem to have this battle of dominance almost daily. (I guess they keep forgetting who won the day before...)
The only time I would reccomend seperating cagemates is when there is constant, violent fighting, or if blood is being shed. Or, when one dwarf constantly has to "tiptoe" around the other for fear of being attacked by the other. In some cases, dwarves will become incompatable and will have to be permanently seperated. However, unless they are over 9 months old, I STRONGLY recommend that another cagemate (of the same sex) be introduced as soon as possible to the less dominant dwarf.
If you want to know more about how to properly introduce a new cagemate, or two new dwarves to eachother, the California Hamster Association presents an excellent article by Joyce Sandy. Click here. INTRODUCING DWARF HAMSTERS
Breeding/Genetics
With dwarf hamsters, breeding ethics are essential- since diabetes runs in many lines. I would strongly discourage "free-breeding," in an effort for create pups for personal enjoyment or sale. By free-breeding, I mean to breed just any two dwarves, not knowing their family health line, genetics, and history. I accidentally free-bred once (I thought I had brought home two males, until one of the "males" had 6 pups!) and although I loved each of the pups dearly, I wish I had known diabetes ran in the mother's line. Because of this, not only did I lose the mother (Jai) early, but several of the pups ended up dying early because of diabetes.
If you are considering breeding dwarves, please take time to research and learn first, so that you produce healthy hamsters. Below are some excellent articles (clickable) by people (Nichole Royer and Linda Price) who have it pretty much down to an art:
Sexing dwarf hamsters
Breeding ethics
Inbreeding
Breeding/Genetics:what to avoid
Housing:
Dwarves are very active and need alot of "roaming" space within their cages. After the bonding period, expanding their living space is crucial. Although most dwarf pairs/colonies will sleep together, it's still wise to create several huts/hide-outs, (small enclosures within the hamster's cage such as an "igloo" or an overturned plastic bowl with an entrance cut into the bottom) in several different areas. If you are housing 2 or more dwarves together, make sure there are 2 huts- in case of bickering, they may need their own "space" for awhile, and hamsters generally feel safer if they are hidden/enclosed. If you house a colony of 4 or more, I recommend one hut per every 2 hamsters.
As far as general cage space, whether you have 1 or 10 dwarves, (never house co-ed colonies... same sex colonies are safe) I would expand regularly. Currently, my dwarf Ashley lives alone in the "house" she used to share with 2 other dwarves. (She is now 11 months old and has out-lived the rest of her family.) It consists of four different compartments (1 crittertrail cage, 2 rubbermaid bins, and a deep wooden box- all with different themes, and with TONS of tunnels/tubes to run through.) As your hamster(s) age, expansion and frequent "rearranging" helps curb boredom on those days you are unable to let them out to play.
Copyright © 2005 Putter Smith