Carousel Rabbitry

Click here to go back to the Navigation Page

   I have many people ask me what my prices are when I have some for sale. Its hard to give a price range without looking at the particular rabbit that is for sale. When putting a rabbit up for sale, there are many things to consider. The first thing is the quality of the rabbit on the judging table. A rabbit who does better on the judging table will be more than the one who won't do as well. The next thing to look at is who is in the background of the animal. If the rabbit has Grand Champion back ground that will bring the value up a lot. Also I have to evaluate the rabbits attitude. A sweet rabbit that is easy to handle will be more expensive than a rabbit that has a bad attitude and is more difficult to handle. For each leg that the rabbit has won, the price goes up on that as well. If a doe has been bred, then I also evaluate how good of a mother she is. An excellent mother is pricier then a bad mother. A buck who has been bred and breeds well will be more then the one that doesn't seem to breed well at all. I have to look at any type of disqualification's. Disqualification's that are not inheritable as in a chewed up ear or broken tail will bring the value of the rabbit down to a breeding stock animal. If it is already breeding stock quality, it doesn't  do much to the price as the breeding quality is not lessened by something like this. Some disqualification's can be inheritable but bred with the right animal will counter that and therefor the price of this breeding animal will be a bit lower because you will have to be careful as to what bunny this rabbit is bred to. These type of disqualification's would be along the lines of, ears to long/short, Color not recognized, Not enough color on a broken animal, wrong color toe nail, white spot, too big/small.............. There are inheritable disqualification's like crooked teeth or a deviated sternum, things like that makes a rabbit a "pet" and should never be bred therefor making the price come down a lot. I also look at the age. A good adult rabbit will usually be worth more then the babies because you know what you are getting when buying an adult. When buying a baby, even though it is out of good stock, babies change as they grow up and can become more or less then what was expected.

   I can however tell you what price range I try to stick to. Keep in mind that each bunny varies and if you ask, I can tell you why a bunny is priced the way it is.

Remember, I try to stay around this price range. If a bunny is very exceptional, s/he may be much higher priced, If a bunny is very much pet type quality, s/he may be much cheaper, but never cheap enough for snake people to find a bargain.

English Lop

   Our English Lops are very cheap compared to others that have the same lines that we do. Our English's are bred together with A&K Rabbitry's buns. We have lines from the Texas ladies, James Murry and the top Lop English Lop breeder (I'm bad with names, it will come to me soon) as well. You will not find these same lines together as cheap as this any where else.

   Any English Lop bred from the lines that I have are bred from one or both parents who have a long history of Grand Champions and most of these babies become Grand Champions themselves. For this reason I don't like to sell for lower than $50. starting out as babies. A Grand Champion English Lop that has their Grand Champion Certificate starts at $100.

Holland Lop

   My Holland Lops are originated from Grand Champion lines from Beth Hederstedt stock. I am now breeding in new Grand Champion lines as well. I don't like to go under $30. and try to stay around the $40. area.

Netherland Dwarf

   My Netherland Dwarfs have Grand Champion lines. The false dwarf buck will go for about $10. and the false dwarf doe will try to stay around the $20. to $30. and the true dwarf doe will sell for about $30. to $40. and the true dwarf buck will sell for about $40. to $50.

* * * * * * * *

Note on the Netherland Dwarf:

False Dwarfs are a bit bigger then the true Dwarf because they didn't get the dwarfing gene.

    A true Dwarf buck is very valuable. You keep the best of your true Dwarf bucks for show and breeding.

   A false Dwarf buck is of no value to the breeder. These are all pet quality. They can not be bred to a true Dwarf doe because the babies would be to big for her to handle and could , would get hurt, even die from giving birth to such large babies. You don't want to breed him to a false Dwarf because then you will get all false dwarf babies since neither of the parents have the dwarfing gene to pass on. False Dwarfs are not show bunnies.

   A true Dwarf doe is a show doe. She is kept to put on the table and show what kind of stock you have. She is to small to breed most of the time and in doing so you can lose her. There are some true Dwarfs that have babies okay, you have to decide on whether or not you think its okay to chance it. Breed her only with the smallest Dwarf buck you have for reasons listed in the false Dwarf section above.

   A false Dwarf doe is a breeding doe. She will not make it on the show table but with good lines to pass on to her kits she will safely have babies with a true Dwarf. You do not want to breed a false Dwarf to this doe for reasons stated in the false Dwarf buck section above.

Harlequin

As babies this is pretty much how we sell the Harlequins.

Non showable $5.

Showable $10.

The adults vary depending on reasons stated at the very top. They can range from $15. to $30.

Lionhead

I do not currently have baby lions. When I do, this is how I plan to sell them.

Many Lionhead breeders charge for full bred Lions starting at $100. to $300. and they charge for hybrid Lions starting at $50. to $150. I have even seen someone sell their Lions for more then $100. just for a hybrid no mane gene.

I like to make them more affordable. Depending on type I try to stay within these prices on the Lionhead.

Full bred

No mane gene (No mane) $40. to $50.

Double mane gene (Fluffy) $55. to $65.

Single mane gene (Ideal lion) with Thin mane $70. to $85.

Single mane gene (Ideal lion) good thick wool mane $90. to $150.

~~~~

Hybrid

No mane gene (No mane) $25. to $35.

Double mane gene (Fluffy) $40. to $55.

Single mane gene (Ideal lion) with thin mane $60. to $70.

Single mane gene (Ideal lion) good thick wool mane $80. to $95.

* * * * * * * *

Note on the Lionhead:

   The Lion with a perfect single mane is what you want to show. Breeding two of these together will give you 50% single mane babies. Breeding a fluffy (double mane) with a no mane (both are not for show) you will get 100% single mane babies.