Stren Sensor - Low-Stretch Monofilament
I have been using Sensor line for about a month now. So far it
has been great. Very sensitive. I like to use it on my
spinnerbait rods. You can feel & detect more strikes for quicker
and better hook sets. I am just trying it on flipping. First
results have been good, but I have trouble seeing the line.
I like to be a line watcher.
Hello my name is Jimmy Lane. I tried out the new sensor line about two months ago and I love it. I use it on all my reels now. It has more sensitivity than any other line I have ever used. It also holds up better than any other mono on the market and it has like no stretch to it at all. It is definitely the best line I have ever used.
Jimmy Lane Rating: MUST
BUY
Stren Easy Cast
I have tried Stren
easy cast I don't like it because it is weak and nicks very easy.
by
Stephen Ranking: POOR
Berkley Fireline
Fireline is horrible line. I bought it and put it on my spinning reel
and my baitcaster. I was reading the package it said that it was the fastest
and most sensitive line in the world. I tied a rat-l-trap and on my first
cast the knot slipped and I got terrible backlash. and then I got my spinning
rod out the line started to loop off of my reel and get tangled. It ruined
my fishing outing and I lost $20. I'll stick with regular mono from now
on.
by
Man Against Gimmicks Ranking:
FORGET IT!
Trilene XL
Trilene XL is okay. I have used this line various times and have had
it break on many occasions when I was reeling in large fish. Even though
it has low visibility, provides good casting, and good fights with fish
it is not worth the time and/or effort of losing lures and retying knots.
I do not recommend this line to anyone.
by James Ranking: POOR
Super Lines
One of the hot topics on the water now is the not quite so new Super Lines.
These
mostly consist of the woven or braided fiber materials such as DuPont's
Kevlar or
Allied Signals Spectra, although there are several others that let you
assume they are
one of the above. I've been using this line now for about 3 years and have
at least tried
it on every rod and/or lure I own, with various success. I've heard this
type of line
praised and cursed, sometimes in the same breath. I'd thought I'd give
the benefit of
what I've learned about this line, then let you be the judge if it's right
for you.
First let's put to bed several misconceptions about what this line does
or doesn't do.
None of the lines will; a) ruin your guides, b) break your rods, c) require
some exotic
knot, d) never break, or e) become an unmanageable mess the first back
lash. With
the ceramic guides virtually all high quality bass rods come with these
days, this line
doesn't stand a chance to even dent it. Now it does sound terrible going
through the
guides on a cast, so that it's carving its way through the tip is a natural
assumption, just
not a true one. Even after a couple of thousand hours of fishing on some
of my rods,
I've never seen the first sign of wear on any of the eyes. I've never broken
a rod with the
stuff either. My partner once went through 3 flipping sticks in one month
with 20 lb.
mono, but no problems with braided line for him either. The trick to this
seems to be to
avoid fishing a rod much below 20 degrees air temperature and not lock
the drag
down all the way prior to a big hook set. Also a pretty good idea is to
not use the rod to
try to break the line. All of the lines will break, sometimes with surprisingly
little effort. If
you are going to break, do just the same as with any other heavy weight
line, grab the
reel, (don't depend on the real seat), and pull straight back. With anything
less than a
flipping hook and 50 lb+ line, you'll come undone by breaking the line
or straightening
the hook. Most often, you'll pull open the eye of the hook get back the
knot, much more
on that later. As far as "professional overruns", this stuff will take
one fairly easy, but it's
just as easy to undo and, unlike monofiliment, won't damage the line.
Properties of Super Lines
The super lines share a number of physical properties which set the aside
from mere
monofiliment. They have returned to the days of braiding lines, a very
similar process
to the one used to make Grampa's cotton line in the 40s. The difference
is in the fibers
used for the braid. These materials are several times stronger than steel,
(which in this
diameter really isn't saying all that much), between fairly and extremely
flexible,
depending are the particular material, and have a very close kit molecular
structure,
which says they are extremely abrasion resistant. The material itself has
an extremely
high yield point, which means it won't stretch at all before breaking,
yet is one of the
few high yield materials which isn't particularly brittle, which is what
makes it possible
to use as kite string, (the original intention), and fishing line.
So what does all of this mean to the fisherman. Compared to monofiliment,
the line is several times stronger for a given line diameter. Most fishermen
would agree 30 lb. test mono doesn't cast as well as say 4 lb. test. Now
you can have the tiny diameter and still have all of the strength. You
have
to be careful with this one, since you are use to having line which is
under
rated in strength because the manufacturer doesn't want the flak for his
lines breaking at the weakest point. With the braided lines, they are also
under rated, but you won't find any point that you think the line is about
to
let go, it just simply goes with no warning. This leads to the conclusion
that the line isn't nearly as good as it actually is, it's just different.
More
about this later. For now, quit thinking about line that will never break.
After playing with all of the high rated toys, say 50 lb. test and above,
you'll
end up back at something in the 20 to 30 lb. range, or just about where
you were to start with. The difference is in the other properties and the
reduced diameter. The smaller diameter means you can throw this stuff a
mile, have less resistance through the water even if it has a rougher
texture, and works wonderfully in the wind.
Since the line is braided, the sides don't have to stretch for the line
to
bend. This gives you a line with no memory at all. You can wad this stuff
up in a little ball and it will stay that way, even if happens to be on
your
reel at the time, (read "very ugly backlash.") This is one of the lines
most
endearing properties, and one of its biggest damnations. Since this stuff
doesn't keep a coil at all, it solves one of the biggest draw backs we'd
had
with spinning reels, and works exceptionally in that application. It also
means that even if you do have a professional overrun, it's very easy to
pick out and will do little or no damage to the line. It also means if
you strip
it off the reel you can very easily have it tie itself in knots of very
tiny
proportions. It also has a very pronounced tendency to backlash if you
get
sloppy with your reel settings. The trick to avoid this is to set your
anti-backlash control tighter and give back some of that increased casting
distance from the smaller diameter in return for fewer backlashes.
Everything in life is a trade off.
No stretch is the biggest advantage of the line. It means very solid hook
sets with reduced effort, and a feel of the lure you never dreamed
possible. You when first try this stuff, most people actually have too
much
feel and it confuses them. Even the tiniest weed or rock in 30 feet of
water
feels like a major hydrilla ball. Let a crank bait or spinner bait touch
a
weed and you'll swear it's a big bite. It takes some getting use to, and
the
first big fish that hits it will jar you to your toes, but after a short
time, it
simply becomes normal again. No more "mush bite" on Carolina rigs, even
with hands of stone you'll feel the tick on this stuff. The advantage is
most
especially true when fishing across the wind. You catch more fish simply
because you'll feel bites you never knew were there.
Close behind no stretch has to be how well these lines stand up to fishing.
The material is so hard that wood and weeds don't stand a chance against
it. If you are one of those folks who loves to flip into heavy cover, have
we
got a line for you! Even if you normally check your line and retie every
hour, you may be able to go A YEAR without retying. The only time I have
ever retied my flipping stick is to change baits or hooks. I've yet to
break
off, although several of my hooks have seen better days. You can saw this
stuff all day long inside a fish attractor, and the worst you might see
is a bit
of a fuss on the outer layer, which I personally can't tell effects the
line
strength. Now meaning that the weeds won't cut the line, I'm here to tell
you your teeth or fingernail clippers don't have a chance either. Uncle
Lou
out at Culprit has a special pair of scissors for about $6 which you will
need to tie up this stuff. About the only other good option is if you happen
to be a smoker, all of this stuff melts real easy, (read "be careful when
you
smoke and fish.") Fair warning, if you take Momma's stainless steel sewing
scissors, they will work for a short while, but you won't be popular when
you get home.
Now, before let's all yell "Hooray" and bury monofiliment beside bamboo
rods, not all is rosy in paradise. It turns out this material is so slick,
it won't
take any type of dye for long, so get use to the idea of fishing with solid
white line. It also turns out we've grown to depend on the stretch and
memory of monofiliment to get the correct action out of our lures. In
addition to all of our lures, our reels were make to handle monofiliment,
not
braids, so there are a few problems there as well. Not to mention that
even
though the price has been slashed by half in the last couple of years,
you
can still expect to pay up to 10 times as much for this frustration. And
to
top it off, not all braids are the same, and even lines made of the same
material are substantially different from different manufacturers.
Brand Name Differences
Let me clearly state the following opinions are mine, and I'm damn proud
of them. I'm
going to try to tell or warn you about all of the brands I've tried, and
my experience with
them. They aren't what the manufacturers would put in their ads, but I
will certify they
are true. With that said, I'm going to list the brands in reverse order,
(worst to first), of
what I use and recommend, and try and tell you why. There is about 20 brands
out
there, so we'll stick with the major suppliers commonly available either
locally or mail
order.
Berkley - The only brand I absolutely recommend stay away from like the
Black
Plague. Berkley's try at this, and everyone needs a gimmick, was to appeal
to those
who couldn't tie a good knot. With the largest size of the braided lines,
the knots tend
to slip before the line breaks since the material is rather slick. Their
answer was a
cored line with the braid around a solid core which wasn't as flexible
as the braid
alone. This was suppose to keep the knots tied up the line strength. It
may way have
done it, but no one has ever had the line on long enough to find out. Fortunately
for me,
I didn't buy this stuff, my partner's in-laws sent it from out of state
for him to try. After
about 8 hours fishing, the braid had separated and frayed every 18 inches
or so for the
entire length of the line. The line was then only as strong as the core,
which wasn't very,
and retained none of the properties of the original braid. In 8 hours it
had turned into a
rather poor grade of monofiliment suitable only for the trash can. Reflection
now says
even new out of the box, it wasn't that good to begin with.
Stren - This is a Kevlar based line, undoubted because Dupont also owns
the patent
rights to the material. It's not actually all that bad, just a tick below
the Spectra and
other polymers used by the rest of the world. It may be the best of the
lines for flipping
heavy cover since the Kevlar has even more abrasion resistance than the
impressive
resistance of other lines. It just has a bit more memory because it's more
brittle than
the other materials. The down sides are Kevlar resists a knot more than
other lines,
(it's slicker), and if you kink it, it will weaken at that point. Not bad,
but there are better.
Bass Pro Spectra / Cabella's Ripcord - Both of these brands seem to be
the
identical item, based on one of the original weavers supply Lynch Line.
Made of 100%
Spectra, it has all of the properties which are making the lines famous.
The drawback
is that it is not woven as tightly as the other lines, hence has a larger
diameter and
frays slightly easier. Available primarily in 35 lb. and up sizes, the
quality control is not
as good as other manufacturers so the breaking point of the weakest area
is
unpredictable. None of the problems matter for 50 and 80 lb. test flipping
line, so it is
my choice for that application. The real upside of these brands is they
cost about 1/2
of what other sources demand. A good choice for trying out braided line
for short line
applications.
Fenwick Ironthread - Made a Japanese polymer, Fenwick's claim to fame has
been
the wide range of line size and color they have offered. Available from
2 lb., (slightly
smaller than sewing thread), to 130 lb. in 3 colors, they seem to have
a line for every
application. Their only problems have been their material takes a dye even
worst than
most, so bleaches almost immediately, and their quality control. On the
spools of
Ironthread I've tried, I always seem to come across a section which is
much weaker
than the rest, so breaks noticeably easier. This can be overcome by resetting
the reel,
but I don't like to guess when, and don't like that I have to reset at
all for premium
priced line. I do still use a 12 lb. test for ultralight fishing but may
switch soon as lighter
lines become generally available from other sources. Still, it's hard to
beat their off
brown color for extremely clear water, if it would just stay that color
for more than a
week.
Silver Braid - Another Japanese product, this one's gimmick is a thin coating
over the
braid. This coating is suppose to make casting easier, (just makes it quieter
as far as I
can tell), but does give the line a slight amount of memory. It's bright
green color
disappears surprisingly well in even clear water while remaining very visible
above the
water. The coating wears off fairly quickly, (the stuff is still slick),
but it does seem to
retain it's color longer than other lines. It's my choice for Spinner Baits
and certain
large top water lures fished on heavy tackle, like big chuggers and Dalton
Specials.
The perfect choice for the new A.C. Plugs.
Spider Wire - The most widely advertised, best known, and most expensive
of the
braids. Still, for my money it's the pick of the litter. Spider Wire has
the tightest weave,
and therefore the smallest diameter of any of the lines. Their newest product,
Spectra
2000, is a full 40% smaller than the regular Spider Wire, which was already
the
smallest on the market for a given strength. Still fades, but will easily
accept one of the
lure dyes on the market to recolor the line. The main reason I like their
brand is their
exceptional quality control. You just don't find weak points in the spool,
and it is
consistent between spools. Spectra 2000 costs half again what most of the
lines cost,
but to me it's worth it. The only reason I don't have it on all of my reels
is my 2 year old
original Spider Wire still is far from worn out.
Size
As I mentioned before, you will have to get use to a new scale in measuring
strength.
Since the braids do not stretch, the apparent breaking point feels lower
than it actually
is. For a rough conversion, I would say that 30 lb. braid will break about
where a good
quality 20 lb. mono will break. The reason for difference is not all rating,
some is fact.
When you snap a hook set with 20 lb. mono, it will stretch, taking some
of the shock
out of the line. Not so with braids, the shock goes through the entire
line and the
instantaneous forces generated by the lack of acceleration of the fish
on the other end
can be enormous. Get past all the engineering and you'll find you need
to buy about
1/3 heavier rating in a braid than a comparable monofiliment. So, if you
use say 14 lb.
monofiliment, try 20 lb. or so braid for exactly the same strength. To
make best use of
the line, move up in strength to say 30 lb., which in Spectra 2000, has
the same
diameter as 6 lb. monofiliment. That way you get added strength and reduced
diameter. For flipping, if you use 30 lb. monofiliment, the 50 lb. braid
will do just fine. If
you insist on being able to straighten out a jig hook, the 80 lb. will
do the job if you don't
rip the reel seat or bend the spool doing it.
For spinning reels, my personal favorite is 20 Spectra 2000, having the
same
diameter as 4 lb. mono. Since I use spinning reels for things I can't use
something else
for, light line is good! If you are in the Roland Martin camp and use spinning
rods as
your first choice, the 30 lb. test will out perform most of your set up,
especially your rod.
Be aware of possible spinning rod tip damage! Most spinning rods have the
guide
support for the tip soldered to the back of the tube, keeping it out of
the line's way as it
moves through the tip. This is great for casting rods since if the line
puts excessive
pressure on the tip, the eye bends out and the supports become big torsion
bars
resisting the tension by pushing against the rod tube. If you turn the
eye over, such as a
spinning rod tip, and apply the same line tension, the support bars are
pulling against
the solder joint, away from the rod tube. Translation, a spinning rod tip's
guide is only
as strong as the solder joint. Be very careful when going to line strengths
with a higher
rating than the rod's label suggests. Spinning rods are normally rated,
and limited, by
the rod tip's strength. Other than this limitation, you'll find braided
line as the best thing
that ever happened to spinning gear. No memory, says the line will resist,
then ignore
the twist of both being placed on and off the reel, and of drag slip. You
can very safely
use the reel's drag with braided line instead of trying to back play the
fish with the
handle. It will be a refreshing change to actually use your anti-reverse
and drag! By the
way, setting the drag correctly will also minimize the chance of damaging
your rod tip,
even on a hook set.
Knots
Unless you happen to use Stren's Kevlar, this is much ado about nothing.
I routinely
use my old standby Palomar Knot to attach just about every lure I own and
break the
knot even less than I did when using the same knot with monofiliment. The
same can
be said by my partner, who uses the Improved Cinch Knot. Both knots seem
to work
very well and few if any of our breakoffs can be traced to the knot.
Kevlar is a bit different. Most assume Kevlar is slicker or the weave is
tighter, neither
of which is true compared to all Spectra brands. The difference is Kevlar
is less
compressible, so the knot can't tighten down on itself as well. This can
be cured by a
variety of new knots most of which are old knots with the line doubled,
(a doubled
Triline Knot works exceptionally well much to the disappointment of Dupont
and delight
of Berkley.) Another cure is Stren's Knot Glue which is a quick drying
water proof
super glue. I avoid the problem by using a different line, but for Kevlar
fans, it will work
with some effort.
Fenwick's Ironthread is another standout just because the knots fail a
bit more often.
This is because their polymer is not quite as flexible as the others and
can be slightly
damaged by the knot tying process. It's still not bad, but a line failure
will normally
occurs at the knot, which is knot all together bad.
Regardless of which knot you use, there is an interesting problem to be
aware of.
Where you once were checking the line for nicks and kinks, now check the
hook eye.
The braided lines are so strong and small, they can easily work themselves
around to
the gap left to make the eye. When this happens, you get nothing back except
the knot.
If you pull your hook out of wood or rock, in addition to seeing if the
tip is bent, see if
you have opened the eye gap. This is naturally more of a concern with small
hooks, but
I have left a disturbing number of 4/0 hooks on the bottom by pulling through
the eye.
Rods and Reels
Despite what the manufacturers of the "braid design" reels say, just about
any high
quality reel will work. The key feature is having a good drag which will
reliably give on
an over strong hook set, preventing equipment damage. I use Shimano reels
and my
partner uses Diawa. Neither of us have had any unexpected failures or damage
which
has been caused by the line. The small diameter line we use will dig into
itself on our
spools, but nothing we can't immediately fix with a gentle tug. I'm sure
the wide wrap
design of the "braid reels" are excellent for extremely heavy line, such
as 80 or 130
pound. Since I don't use 80 lb. for anything, I'll tell you all my reels
handle up to 50
pound just fine. Keep your reel in good condition and clean and service
it on a regular
basis, (regardless of line), and you'll do fine too.
Rods are a different matter. I have changed my rod selection for using
braided lines. In
general, I go lighter by one tip weight for every application. For example
I've gone from
a 4 tip, (med/heavy) to a 3 tip, (medium), for worms. Carolina Rigs went
from a 5 tip
(Heavy) to a 4 tip. Crank baits stayed at a 2 tip, but I tell you later
that's because I don't
use braided line for crank baits. The reason for the lighter action is
the lack of stretch
in the line. With monofiliment, I grew to depend on the line compensating
for the fish as
I played him in. Since braids don't stretch, I've had to go to a lighter
action and let the
rod tip make up for the lack of line stretch. I could get away with this
since no stretch
also meant I didn't need the extra rod backbone for the hook set. Even
with my flipping,
I've gone from a "flipping stick" to a "pitching stick" which has a lighter
action at the tip.
The one exception to this is my spinner baits, which I've always considered
"cue stick
bubba fishin" anyway. Just remember to stay within the rod's rated line
range with
spinning rods, and you should have no problems.
Lures
I don't throw every lure made, but I think I've covered most categories.
The following is
my thoughts on braided line performance to date. I do reserve the right
to change my
mind at most any time.
Texas Rigged Worms - The most popular lures in the area seem to work great
on
braid. The rumor that the line, especially after bleaching white, would
put off the bite
has been unfounded. We tried side by side testing of braided line verses
our old stand
by monofiliment for over six months with no perceptible difference between
number or
quality of bite. Since the added feel of the braid is especially important
in deep water
where I often use a Texas Rig, this is a sure winner in my book.
Carolina Rigged Worms - The one application of universal acceptance is
Carolina
Rigging. The only difference is what type of leader to use. I personally
think a
monofiliment leader works the best and adds to the action. I also like
the mono to act
as a shock leader for big hook sets. My partner, on the other hand, prefers
to use a
braided line leader as well. Again, no perceptible difference in the number
of quality of
bites. Just go with what makes you comfortable. By the way, a 12 or 14
lb. leader is
also handy for those times you're hung and need to break the line. The
monofiliment
still breaks easy so I save alot on weights and swivels.
There is a word of caution on this. If you use glass beads, (which I do
exclusively), a
chipped bead will cut the line like a hot knife through butter. Using a
brass weight with
glass beads will aggravate the problem. This really isn't any different
that with mono,
you just notice it more since it is always unexpected. There will be times
when you set
the hook and don't even get back a smile. It's all part of the game and
something you
get use to. On average, you'll still boat more fish than you ever have,
so just realize
what's going on and don't sweat the small stuff.
Spinner Baits - One of my favorite lures works wonders on this line. Even
the smallest
blades feel like an Evanrude on the other end. Not much way to miss a bite
on this stuff
either. The only draw back is the weakest link in the system is now the
spinner bait
wire, so you do tend to break a few baits if you stay hung up most of the
day, (at least
you get the blade back.) Some others feel like the line has too much feel
and causes
to the jerk the bait away from a fish. It's the same school as likes fiberglass
rods over
graphite for spinner baits and crank baits. Personally, I can use all of
the extra feel I
can get.
Soft Jerk Baits - This is a problem category. I love the added feel of
the braided line,
but have found out that the lack of memory in the line is killing the normal
action of my
bait. As a compromise, I have started using a monofiliment leader for the
baits, and
this works wonders for me. If you don't like the idea of tying up a leader
with the
associated tendency for the bait to slowly sink, then I'd stick with monofiliment.
Some
other users of braided line either don't think there is a difference or
wax the final 12
inches of their lines to retain some spring. I will say that side by side
tests of
monofiliment vs. all braid show the monofiliment will out catch the braid
about 3 to 1.
There does not seem to be a difference between the braid with a leader
and
monofiliment.
Hard Jerk Baits / Crank Baits - This is the one rod I took the braided
line off and
was very happy. I found out that even with a 2 tip, (light action), I still
tended to pull
treble hooks out of a fish before he got in the boat. The added stretch
of monofiliment
is an advantage for treble hook applications. I recommend staying with
your
monofiliment for this one. By the way, as with soft jerk baits, the line
does seem to kill
the action and you get noticeably less bites. My partner, who just loosens
his drag and
uses braided line because he shares the rod between other applications,
has taken to
using a monofiliment leader like I do with Soft Jerk Baits. This does correct
the lure
action.
Top Waters - I have a cut off point for this one. My personal cut off is
5/8 oz lures.
Below that, I feel like the lack of memory of the line and the loss of
the spring in the line
hurts the action. In addition, playing a fish, I can easily pull out small
treble hooks, just
like a crank bait. But over 5/8 oz, the story changes. For Spooks, Magnum
Jitterbugs,
Dalton Specials, and the like, I've always had trouble using heavy enough
line to
control them. With the braided line I get the addition control even at
extreme casting
range and can get a very solid hook set, which has been hard at long range
with
monofiliment. Since the treble hooks on these large baits are 1/0 or better,
loosing the
fish during a fight is not as great of concern if I already have a good
hook set.
Jigs - Ranks up there between Sex and Sliced Bread. Use It!
Jigging Spoons - You have to be careful with this. The added sensitivity
is a definite
plus, but the lack of memory is a problem if you don't stay in control.
If you just let the
lure flutter down any old way, the line will very quickly get tangled.
Adding a leader
doesn't seem to help much. If you are good with a jigging spoon, I suspect
you have
enough control to enjoy fishing the braided line. If you are just starting,
or only use a
jigging spoon on rare occasions, sticking with monofiliment will most likely
improve
your day.
Swimming Spoons - I really like using braided line for this application.
The abrasion
resistance lets me throw into the deepest cover all day long without worrying
about
scraping the line. The added sensitivity lets you tell between just another
weed a very
light bite. All of my swimming spoons have a tying ring anyway, so action
is not a
problem. For this application, it's a winner.
Flipping - The American Express of Fishing Line. Don't Leave Home Without It.
Tube Jigs and Grubs - One of the few applications where the lack of memory
actually improves the lure action. Stay with the smaller sizes, with less
water
resistance, and you'll get improved action on the drop which will turn
into several extra
bites a day. All this and you actually get to feel the bites too!
Ultra Lights - In addition to tubes and grubs, I also throw weenie worms
and tiny crank
baits, along with the assorted 3" Slug-O or Beetle Spin. If you stay with
the same test
or slightly higher line, you get improved action and the line will disappear
in water.
When using weenie worms or Slug-Os, I still put a piece of monofiliment
as a shock
leader, just as I do with Carolina rigs. Most of crank baits in this size
start coming with
either a tiny swivel or snap ring, so action is not a problem. Exerting
too much
pressure on the tiny hooks is difficult to do with very light action rods,
but keep a loose
drag just in case. Some trade offs here but I still keep braided line on
my spool.
Micro Lights - Assuming you use 2 - 4 lb. braided line maximum, this is
more fun that
the law allows. The added sensitivity is unreal and the lure action unbelievable.
Your
line is almost precisely the same diameter as air, only stronger. The only
challenge
bigger than landing a 3 lb. bass on this tackle is trying to tie on a bait
without glasses.
Fishing the Super Lines
The biggest differences in fishing Super Lines are the reel settings and
hook sets.
Once you get use to the feel of the lures, the rest is simple. You may
find it surprisingly
difficult to get the correct drag set on your reel. When you test your
drag, you have
been use to the stretch in the line between your hand and the reel, which
is now gone.
Set the drag where it will just give a bit when you set the hook. If you're
one of those
folks who set their hook with the same motion they swing a bat, go back
to reeling
down and popping the hook with your arms and wrists. The only time you
need a
bigger hook set is with a Carolina, which is still less than half of what
you use with the
same rig now. DO NOT compensate for casting distance! The hook set should
be the
same for a mile long cast or right under the boat. The only time you have
to worry
about slack is if the wind has a bow in your line, then reel up to the
fish before setting. If
you start to loose fish you stick, then the problem can just as easy be
too tight of drag
as too loose. Chances are pretty good if you use a big hook set of the
hook ripping the
fish's mouth, and without having a limber rod, the least amount of slack
is going to
loose the fish. Once the fish is hooked, reel like hell! You are not going
to get the
benefit of spring tension with the braided line, so it will be much easier
for the fish to
get some slack, hence the recommendation to go to a lighter rod action.
About the only other thing I can think of is to stick to one line for a
lure class. If you try to
switch between monofiliment and braid throwing say a Texas Rig Worm on
both, you'll
get frustrated in a hurry. The feel is different, the hook set is different,
it will cast
different, and you'll never remember which one you have in your hands when
that big
bite comes. If you're going to try braided line, pick a lure and just worry
about one line
at a time. The feel of the lure is already going to be different than anything
else, so it's
not as big a deal to switch lines when you switch lures as well. Make sure
you take a
few practice trips with the braid to get use to it before trying it with
money on the line.
Even a new race car needs a few practice laps before going to competition.
Bass fishing pro says self-confidence, correct fishing line and consistency make the difference
When bass pro David Fritts was seven years old, he and his aunt
went fishing. Nothing fancy, just fishing from the bank with some
cheese for bait. But with that first bite, he was hooked. Thirty-three
years later, he still feels the thrill as much as that first day.
"I've always wanted to fish," Fritts said. "When I was a kid, I was
happy with whatever happened to land on the hook. Now, it's the
challenge of being consistent that keeps me fishing."
In 1997, Fritts added the Wal-Mart FLW Tour World Bass Fishing
Championship to his already long list of accomplishments.
Previously, he took home the B.A.S.S. Masters Classic in 1993,
was named 1994 Angler of the Year by B.A.S.S. and has won more
than $1 million in lifetime earnings. He currently is the only pro bass
angler to claim both the B.A.S.S. Masters Classic and the FLW
World Bass Championship. But he still feels that he hasn't done it
all. His main goal is the same as it has been since the day he went
pro - to win consistently.
"Fishing is unlike any other sport. You don't play on the same court
day after day, in the same conditions, against the same players,"
Fritts said. "You've got to consider bait, line, the depth of the fish
and water conditions. Being consistent is a challenge, but that's what
I like about it."
Fritts said winning a tournament or having a successful fishing trip
depends on several factors. First, you need good equipment; then
the right bait. Finally, you need to get the bait to the fish. And
although it sounds simple, some days, it's not.
"You'll have good and bad days; days when you ask yourself,
'What in the world did I do wrong?' But as with anything, you have
to have confidence in yourself and in what you are doing. That's the
advice I follow," said Fritts.
Using the right fishing line became a major issue for Fritts during the
Wal-Mart FLW Championship. Fritts decided to use a new
monofilament line from Stren called Sensor. It has half the stretch
of other nylon monofilament lines, yet remains strong and flexible
enough to ride out rough conditions like weeds and rocks. Fritts said
using Sensor made all the difference and allowed him to get his bait
down to where the fish were.
During the tournament's last day, Fritts had to switch to an 8-lb. test
just to get the lure where he wanted it to go. He said that for each
pound of difference in the test of a line, he can gain an additional
foot of depth with his crankbait. This translated into a $100,000 win
last November in the tournament and a definite thumbs-up for
Stren's new line.
"The line is your link to the fish. If you don't use a good line, you
won't catch any fish," Fritts said. "With the Sensor line, I could
work the bait and not stretch the line when I set the hook."
Fritts hopes 1998 will be another good year for him and would like
to take home the B.A.S.S. Masters Classic once again.
"I'm looking forward to the thrill of competition and living up to the
challenge," Fritts said. "Besides, it's a lot of fun to outsmart those
fish."
Fishing line can be difference between good days and bad
The water is calm but tinted an algae-green. And that big bass is
lurking somewhere near the bottom of those weeds, watching your
line hit the water and laughing as he ignores your bait. Conditions
like this call for a colored fishing line that is tough but flexible -
one
that blends into the water conditions, yet has the ability to fight off
snags and breaks.
Stren's green-colored Easy Cast line is good for bass, panfish,
walleye or any other species found in greenish waters. Ice fishermen
will appreciate the line because it remains supple and flexible, even
in the freezing cold. And its easy-to-see color stands out against
snow and ice. It's available in 10 line sizes ranging from 4- to 30-lb.
test and four colors - Green, Clear, Coffee and new Clear/Blue
Fluorescent.
But, what if you need something that's ultra-tough, yet sensitive
enough to let you work your bait when your line is out in the middle
of the lake? Stren Sensor is a monofilament line that boasts the
lowest stretch of any monofilament (30 - 50 percent less than
others), tremendous sensitivity and hook-setting power and superior
knot strength and abrasion resistance.
When bass pro David Fritts won the 1997 Wal-Mart FLW Tour
World Bass Fishing Championship, he did it with Stren Sensor. By
using an 8-lb. test on the last day, he took home the $100,000 top
prize and the World Bass Fishing Championship.
"It's the finest crankbait line I have ever used," Fritts said. "It's the
key to fishing in clear water, or when you need to use a
smaller-diameter line. If you want to catch more fish, use Stren
Sensor."
In addition to Clear, Sensor also comes in Lo-Vis Green. It's
available in eight line sizes up to 20-lb. test.
Stren also has come out with a series of soft, natural-texture plastic
lures. Realistic squirming action and texture mean that fish you are
hunting will hold the bait longer, allowing for a more positive hook
set. The lizard, crawfish and worms (a 6" curl tail and a 5" and 7"
ribbon tail) come in a variety of colors, including June Bug, Natural
Craw, Red Shad, Pumpkinseed, Black/Blue, and Electric Grape.
