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05/15/03 Woohoo!
Looks like I’m back on schedule and updating once a month. (Let’s see how long this can last.)
Anywho, spring is on its way out – already – and summer is moving in. Unfortunately, summer doesn’t travel
alone, so its bringing a lot of bugs and rain with
it. At least the town is livening up
and there are more activities going on now.
Haiiii yaaaaa! No, I haven’t turned into the Karate
Kid. Haiya is a kind of dance that
the people on this island have been doing for thousands of years to
celebrate the beginning of the fishing season. In fact, many scholars say that the
Haiya is the forerunner of all Japanese dance. Imagine that! All the funky traditional moves done in
this country may have come from this little middle-of-nowhere inaka. Anyway, it was a lot of fun to watch, and
even some of the local foreigners participated. Not me, though.
The Haiya festival
is held every spring, when the wind changes or something like that. In fact, the name Haiya means ‘southern
wind.’ Nowadays, they hold a parade
around central Ushibuka 牛深市 (officially
the smallest city in Japan)
and different groups of people parade through the streets, each doing a
slightly different variation on the dance. Being a parade, there are also
floats, but unlike those in America,
people throw rice cakes (mochi) from them instead of candy.
Miyazaki 宮崎県 A couple of weekends ago, Carrie,
Sonya and I finally got around to seeing Miyazaki. Still a little jetlagged from an
emergency trip back to the States a few days before, I drove the lot of us
over to the mainland for an extended weekend “mini-break,” as the Brits
call it…
We
made our first stop in Yabe town to see this famous bridge/aqueduct called
Tsujunkyou. The bridge, which is
still functional to this day, was an important part of a local irrigation
system that delivered water from a nearby reservoir to farmlands in the
area. The bridge itself has a
“safety valve” in the middle, which is now opened regularly for the viewing
pleasure of tourists. This picture
depicts the tail-end of the flow (as I was actually on the bridge while it
was going full-force). Hope you can
see it .
That
night, we stopped in Takachiho 高千穂. It was here that, according to myth, the
sun goddess Amaterasu locked herself up in a cave, depriving the world of
light. It wasn’t until Ame-no-Uzume,
a lesser goddess, performed a dance so humorous that she lured the goddess
out through curiosity. This story has been passed down through the
generations via a
series of masked dances performed here in Takachiho. There are some 33
or so mythological dances, but only 4 are performed regularly. These we saw that night at the town’s
Shrine.
After a nice night’s
sleep at a minshuku, we headed for Takachiho gorge (left). An incredibly
beautiful place to begin with, this gorge also
supposedly houses the cave in which the Sun Goddess hid during her …
whatever. You can also find the
Devil’s Power Rock here, which is depicted here on the right. … And you thought the root of all evil was
money.
Pac-SUN Aahhhh.
The beach at last. After our jaunt in the mountains, we decided it was time
to see some seashore. We went east to Hyuuga
City 日向市, which we found to be a
surfer’s paradise. This beach (can’t remember the name) is one of many up
and down Hyuuga-Nada 日向灘 (the sea of Hyuuga)
that are renound for their warm waters and good waves. We dipped our feet
(after scalding them on the hot sand) and got a little sunburnt – fitting,
since Hyuuga means both “sun-basking”…and “Land of the Rising Sun.”
Miyazaki City From Hyuuga, we
headed south to Miyazaki City,
a place known for its importance during early Japanese History. There we stayed at the small but tranquil
Odosou ryokan for only 8,000 Yen per person including breakfast
(well-priced for lodging of this type). … I think the lady there only
charged us 7,000, though, since they weren’t very busy.
Anyway,
the next day we went and saw the Heiwadai
Park, a peace park built
shortly before WWII. There’s a
36-meter tall tower that distinguishes the park from afar, but even more
interesting is the garden of excavated ancient haniwa figures. Originally found in nearby burial mounds,
these earthenware figures depict humans, horses, chickens, dogs, etc. They’re surprisingly cute, too. … like prehistoric anime or something.
Of
course, we couldn’t leave the before seeing the Miyazaki Jinguu
Shrine. After all, it is here that
the legendary first Emperor (known as Kamuyamatoiharehiko no Mikoto, or
simply Emperor Jimmu) was supposed to have a residence, and now the shrine
here is dedicated to the semimythical
ruler and his parents.
Our last stop before
heading home was the island south of Miyazaki
city called Aoshima (“blue island”),
known for the unusual rock formations surrounding it. This geographical oddity, called “The
Devil’s Washboard,” was formed in the sea and then drifted towards the
mainland … a …
really long time ago. There are no
warmer waters in Japan
other than Okinawa than there are here, due to
currents, and a shrine dedicated to the deity of relationships can be found
on the far end of the island.
Well, that about
wraps it up. Until next time, ja ne.
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