88-91 Civic B16a Swap
B16a motor: buy this in a package that comes with the ecu, trans, and etc. from a shop online like hmotorsonlne or jdmhondaparts
Axles: you can either use the ones that come with the package which are a hit or miss on working or get some from r-axles or
driveshaftshop or you can go to hasports website for more info on B16a axles
Ecu: Need the EF 88-91 pw0 or pr3 ecu(only get this if it did not come with your package.
Mounts and Shift linkage: use hasport mounts and linkage(in my personal trial and opinion they are the best and they are a solid billet mount.
Wiring: hasport sells a wiring kit to set up the car for vtec you can also buy a conversion harness from them if you have dpfi since the b16a is mpfi.
Misc: radiator hoses and a throttle cable from a 90 integra.
Suggested parts to replace
Water pump, timing belt, distributer cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, valve cover and spark plug o-ring gaskets, clutch i am using the clutchmasters. go to my B16a maintenance page to see which cars to get these parts from.
Engine Removal
I would write the directions out but the honda shop manual does this best if you have one thats great follow the directions in it for engine removal. If not there is one available online here is the link honda shop manual just use the index on the side of the page and go to the engine section and look under engine removal.
Engine bay prep and mount installation
There are some small fitment issues that need to be taken care of like dentting in the driverside shock tower to fit the altenator pulley and bending part of the rear crossmember to allow for the rear engine mount braket not to rub. Go to hasports guide on the istillation process to see exactly where and what needs to be done there is a printable pdf guide available at there site so go to hasport engine mounts and prep instructions
Installing the engine
Next step is to use your stock wiring harness and plug it into the B16. If the B16 came with a stock harness, save that for plugs and wire... that's all it's good for. After you get everything plugged in, there should be one (or two? I forget) extra, unused plugs. It's OK, you didnt miss anything. it's extra....
For both the main harness and conversion harness, you will PROBABLY need to lengthen one or two wires. I know i had to lengthen the wires that go to the thermostat and i think there was one other. Get a soldering pencil(easier to use then gun) and some shrink wrap or electrical tap and some wire cutters. This is why you want to keep the B16 stock harness it has lengths of wires and plugs you can use because i did break a plastic connector on the wiring harness that went to the tps sensor when i was installing the motor so i just removed the pins from the broken one and do the same to get the connector off the harness that came with the motor and put it on
Now, find the sensors/plugs on the B16 that you DIDN'T plug anything into. They should be:
| Wire Color |
Engine Connection |
Ecu Connection |
| White |
2nd O2 sensor |
C8 |
| Green/Yellow |
Vtec Solenoid |
A8 |
| Blue/Black |
Vtec Oil Pressure |
B5 |
| Red/Blue |
Knock Sensor |
B19 |
Connect the wiring using the above guide and diagram of the ECU plugs. For correct
numbering on the ECU plugs, hold the plugs with the wires facing away and the clips up.
The connections at B5 and B19 replace existing wires. You can cut and connect the
new wires or use the Honda pin removal tool for a cleaner installation. The part number for the
tool is 07JAZ-002010A and is available from Honda or Hasport for about $15.
If you chose to run only one O2 sensor you can tap the 2nd O2 sensor wire into the
existing O2 sensor in the engine or at the ECU. To tap into the primary O2 sensor at the ECU,
tap into wire C16.
Ground the conversion harness the same place the main harness is ground which is on the starter.
Now you can hoist up the B16. I believe if you install from above you can install the right mount now too. I had to wait to do that. Lower the engine in tranny side a little lower than the rest. Once it's close, install the HAsport transmission mount, and bolt it to the car but don't tighten it. Now, you'll have to install the rear mount bracket WHILE the engine is being lowered. Just as it meets the rear mount. It's a crazy pain in the ass to do from above, but it is possible. Once that is lined up, put the bolts in but don't tighten it yet. Line up the driver's side mount now and bolt it in. Now, if everything is line dup right, tighten all the mounts down. I believe the torque spec is 42ft-lbs. You may need a long socket extension and swivel sockets to reach the rear mount bolts.
The harness should now plug into where they all belong. Bolt the header up to the cat.Run the Vacuum lines and fuel lines to their applicable places. You will find out that some parts on the B16 intake manifold serve no purpose on a usdm 88-91 civic, and they can be removed. You may notice a few vacuum lines going no where or are open here is a vacuum diagram
A and B use a t-fitting to make into one line and connect to F
C connect to H
D connect to intake buy connecting into the pcv valve line that comes from the top of the valve cover to the intake with a t-fitting and connect to intake.
E connect to J
I conect to G
This is what it should look like once it is connected
Now go under the car and bolt up the new shift stabilizer. You may notice it has an open in for a bushing. I removed the bushing from the linkage that came with the motor and put it into the hasport linkage. Next, put the new shift linkage on. Use that pin and line up the holes on the joint(you will remember how much of a pain in the ass this was to get out, well it goes in much easier) Tap it in slowy and straight until it is all the way in. Then bolt the other end to the shifter.
Re-attach the stock clutch cable and adjust it, and install the new throttle cable now. Put an intake over the throttlebody (good time for a CAI). Replace the speedometer cable into the back of the tranny.
Re-install the radiator (if ya took it off) and the coolant overflow bottle.
Make sure you re-connected the engine ground, and that you HAVE A tranny ground. That's what messes alot of people up. You can add all the fluids now...
Install the new intermediate shaft on the drivers side and the axles. Re-install the suspension and brakes. It might be a good time to bleed the brakes as well...
After you make sure EVERYTHING is hooked up right, have someone else take a look. Make sure all caps are back on, all hoses have a destination, all wires are going to something....
Then reconnect the battery. And fire it up.... if it doesn't start, don't get discouraged, most likely its something small you overlooked. Double check everything again.
As long as you took your time, everything should be OK. It will probably idle rough initially. If it idles very HIGH, you may need to check your vacuum lines. Make sure you check to see if the ECU is throwing any codes. Alot of the time it will throw a code #7 (TPS) which means ya need a new one. You can probably get one from a junkyard. Honda doesn't sell them seperately, ya need to get the whole throttlebody. Screw that, just go to a junkyard....
Take it out for spin, and enjoy VTEC...
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