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Ti_Guy's Magura Tech Tips

Last updated Monday, June 22, 1998 (10:04:35 pm est)
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Contents

Bleed Kit Parts
Brake Parts
Brake Installation
Brake Bleeding


So you need help installing and/or bleeding your Maguras? No problem. After reading through the following procedure, you should have your brakes installed and/or bled in no time.

Bleed Kit:

  1. a syringe;
  2. a piece of plastic tubing with attached barbed adapter to fill syringe;
  3. another piece of plastic tubing with attached barbed adapter to vent system of old oil;
  4. hydraulic oil. Magura recommends Aseol Terra 60-780 oil since it is biodegradeable. You can also use a biodegradeable hydraulic oil of viscosity SAE 10 or sewing machine oil. NEVER use car brake fluid or glycol based brake fluids. This will damage the brake seals and tubing.
  5. 5 mm allen key;
  6. 4 mm allen key;
  7. 13 mm wrench; and
  8. 8 mm wrench.





Magura Brake Parts:

Your Magura brake set should consist of the following (refer to the above exploded images):
  1. right brake lever and associated master cylinder;
  2. left brake lever and associated master cylinder;
  3. front brake (slave cylinders);
  4. rear brake (slave cylinders);
  5. length of plastic tubing already attached and filled with oil that connects the front and rear brakes and one of the slave cylinders. This length of tubing will need to be cut to length to fit your bike. A smaller length of tubing connects the right and left slave cylinders;
  6. 2 brass olives needed to re-attach the brake tubing (that you cut in step #5) to the slave cylinders;
  7. 4 pairs of "Evolution" and "Magura" mounting adapters (2 per brake). One side of the bike gets the set marked "Evolution" and the other gets the set marked "Magura". Depending on your fork, rim, etc. you can run the adapters on either side of the bike.
  8. 2-5 mm hex screws to mount the slave cylinders to brake studs (one for front and one for rear). If you have the quick-release(s), then use the quick-release screw(s) instead of the 5 mm hex screw(s).
  9. 4 mm hex screws for top of mounting adapters;
  10. 2 quick-releases (optional, depending of model and year);
  11. brake booster (optional, depending of model and year);
  12. 4 circular washers and 4 semi-circular washers. If you have quick-release(s), you may or may not have got a thicker washer with a 2 mm set screw. This washer allows you to tighten the set screw to the brake boss so you don't loose it when you remove the slave cylinder with the quick-release.
  13. 4 butt screws (hey, that's what Magura calls them. They are the ones that look like elbows).


Got everything? Good. I'm assuming that you have not yet mounted the brakes to your bike. If you already have them mounted, then you'll most likely need to bleed them.


Magura Brake Installation:
  1. Before doing anything, make sure you have fully read and understood all of the following procedures and familiarize yourself with the 2 above images. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to email me.
  2. Before opening the brake system, make sure the micro-adjustment screw (or turbo pad adjuster (TPA)) is completely closed which retracts the pads. For the non-TPA Maguras, the micro-adjustment screw (2 mm) is inside the lever.
  3. When routing the hydraulic brake cable, I do NOT recommend drilling out the existing brake cable stops. This will VOID your bike's warranty. If you have to, use zip-ties. SAFE Products makes adapters to convert your existing brake cable stop into a Magura compatible stop. Contact Cambria Bicycle Outfitter at 1-800-88-BIKES. They have adapters and they are listed for $12 US and weigh 110g (for those weight weenies).
  4. Mount the master cylinder to the handlebar at the proper position and angle you will be riding with.
  5. Mount the slave cylinders to the brake bosses. To do this, take two of the "evolution" adapters, one of the slave cylinders, one of the plastic rings, one of the circular washers, one of the semi-circular washers, one of the butt screws, and one of the 4 mm and 5 mm hex bolts. Wrap the plastic sleeve around the slave cylinder. Wrap the front and rear adapters around the slave cylinder at the plastic. Note: this will give you a lateral adjustment of a couple millimeters. Insert the elbow screw into the upper backside of the rear adapter. This elbow will be bearing up against the inside of your fork. Insert the 4 mm screw into the upper front side of the adapter and lightly screw it into the elbow screw. Mount the semi-circular washer onto the brake boss. Slide the lower slot of the adapter onto the brake boss. Screw the 5 mm hex screw with the circular washer through the lower slot of the adapter and into the brake boss. Lightly tighten the 4 mm and 5 mm hex screws once you are somewhat happy with the set-up. Remember, this is just the begining and you can get the perfect adjustment later. NEVER OVERTIGHTEN the adapter bolts since this will seize the cylinder pistons. The adapter bolt tightening torque is 4 Nm. Repeat the process for the other slave cylinder. Once you have either the front or rear brakes mounted, you'll be cutting the excess cable.
  6. Loosen the sleeve nut screw with the 8 mm wrench (this is the nut that is under the plastic cap on the slave cylinder where the cable comes from the brake lever to the brakes).
  7. Once you remove the end of the tubing from the slave cylinder, you should see a brass sleeve (olive) that fits over the tubing at the very end. You'll need to replace this olive with one of your extra ones. Before you cut the plastic tubing, make sure to leave enough slake for turning the handlebars, front/rear shock travel, etc. You do NOT want to cut the cable too short - so measure twice! Cut the plastic tubing to length with a very, very sharp knife. The cut MUST be clean! Due to capillary action, you will not loose any oil from the system (similar to putting your finger over the top end of a straw that is full of water).
  8. With the tubing cut to length, route it through your cable stops (if drilled out - remember, I warned you) or cable stop adapters. Once routed correctly, slide a new olive over the tubing. Make sure that the rounded side points towards the end of the line and also make sure that the sleeve nut screw is still on the tubing.
  9. Fully insert the tubing, olive and sleeve nut into the slave cylinder. Make sure the hold the tubing and olive down as you tighten the sleeve nut with the 8 mm wrench. Tighten the sleeve nut to a torque of 4-5 Nm.
  10. Check how the brakes function. The system is correctly filled if the pads respond as soon as the levers are pulled. How are the pads moving? Slowly? Not at all? Don't be surprised or worried if the pads move independently of each other, this is normal. If things don't look too good, you'll need to bleed the system to remove any air that may have entered the system.


Magura Brake Bleeding:
  1. Before you bleed the system, make sure pads are fully retracted by turning either the 2 mm hex screw in the lever or the Turbo Pad Adjuster (TPA).
  2. For older models, you'll need to loosen the master cylinder from the handlebar with a 4 mm allen key and position it so the bleed screw is at the highest point of the system. The HS-22 brakes do not need this since the bleed screw is already at the highest point of the system.
  3. Attach the plastic tubing with the attached barbed adapter to the end of the syringe with the non-barbed adapter end. Fill the syringe with oil. Make sure to drain all air from the syringe and associated tubing.
  4. Remove the bleed screw from the slave cylinder with a 5 mm allen key. Thread the barbed adapter that is attached to the full syringe into the slave cylinder. Prop up the syringe (or have a friend hold it).
  5. Remove the bleed screw from the master cylinder with a 5 mm allen key. Thread the barbed adapter on the second piece of plastic tubing (venting tube) into the brake lever. Make sure that the oil that is coming out of the venting tube has somewhere to go - perferrably, not on your rug!
  6. Inject the oil through the system. Watch the venting tube for air bubbles. The system is free of air when no more air bubbles are seen in the venting tube.
  7. Unscrew the master cylinder venting tube (at the brake lever) and rethread in the bleed screw.
  8. Unscrew the slave cylinder injection tube (at the wheel) and rethread in th bleed screw.
  9. Check how the brakes function. The system is correctly filled if the pads respond as soon as the levers are pulled. If not, re-bleed the system.


That's it! I know it seems like a lot but re-read it and study the images and you should have no problems.

Good Luck!



I can be reached at ti_guy@_NO_SPAM_oocities.com

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