The winter 2004/05 spirit

Winter 2004/05 will ripple with desires that are contradictory but do not clash. They are mutually attractive, juxtaposed, superimposed sometimes, and beautifully complementary

Two main movements emerge, subdivided into a range of styles to suit individual temperaments, backgrounds and lifestyles. On the one hand, consumers yearn for more substantial values. They want anchorage and a frame of reference. They turn to products with an ethical payload, and look for sensations they recognize as genuine. And on the other hand they are unabashedly frivolous and fall for impulse buys, just for a treat or to be mysterious or dashing.

Footwear has a legitimate place in this mercurial context. It radiates harmony, as the indispensable partner in a new kind of elegance, or transgresses codes, as a vector of personalisation. The ups and downs of the contemporary world affect the footwear industry, but have not cramped its style.

The trends for Winter 2004/05 on display at Midec are an illustration of the industry's creativity.

Top colours and materials

Colour is more than ever the secret to flair in fashion. Winter 2004/05 reveals a more sophisticated approach to colour, with subtle harmonies, or more daring combinations that show a real need for self-expression.

The luxury and voluptuousness of warm ambers and leather tones team up with club colours in a very British spirit. The infinite beauty of nature: plant fibre neutrals, bleached neutrals, soft fawn, chalky off whites, earthy browns and shady greens mingle with bright colours. The magic and mysterious appeal of refined dark tones: brown, aubergine, Prussian blue, garnet... The subtlety of feminine tints: faded pastels, smoky colours, moleskin, cosmetics: orange, red, pink and flesh tones. The elegance and timeless modernity of black and white, played solo or in contrasts, either matt or glossy. The importance of flashes of light (ultraviolet, neon yellow, shocking pink, electric blue...) and luminous gloss: touches of gold, bronze, silver, chrome, mirror effects, reflective textiles, and lacquered effects.

Winter 2004/05 offers a wealth of materials. There is at least one point in common between an impulse buy and a sensible buy: the need for friendly technical features that afford instant gratification. Treatment and finishings give the right degree of flexibility, without completely altering the materials.

Classic: mythical, exotic grains with a patina or polished effect, small grains and smooth leather, patent leather, traditional textiles: knit, corduroy, woven fabric, male draperies with a clean cut or off-beat look, padded effects.

Futuristic: nappa, very soft leather, stretch leather, patent and lacquered leather, high-performance coatings, quilted textiles, iridescent, sparkling, and reflective effects, abstract graphics, optical graphics sometimes with straight lines and sometimes blurred and distorted.

Organic: mimetic leather, recycled leather, vegetable leather, thick furs, turned skins, flesh splits, multilayer textiles, felted wool, smudged checks, flowers, stripes and embroidery with an ethnic, folkloric feel, random effects: oxygenated, re-dyed, eroded, aged, and powdered.

Provocative: mirror lacquer, patent leather, vinyl, scored leather, tight-fitting leather, nightclub sequins, gothic lettering.

Sensual: voluptuous textures, supple, delicate leathers, suede calf, kid, lamb, pearly leather, rabbit fur and Qrilag, refined textiles: satin, ribbons, velvet, net, lace, embroidery, silk, drapery, nostalgic flowers, lingerie flowers, tiny oriental motifs, upholstery patterns.
 

Winter fashion 2004/05

Even if trends now spread over several seasons, Winter 2004/05 promises to be varied. Fewer imperatives, more freedom and diversion: the classics are back in vogue, genuine casuals are worn in the city and special products are a must for everyday wear.

Chic but not classic: the luxury and voluptuousness of a select world in leather and suede colours which gives moccasins, derbies, boots and ballerinas a modern twist and a touch of eccentricity. The desire for quality can be seen in the choice of materials and the reinterpretation of emblematic codes such as top stitching, pinked edges, buttoned tongues, bows, buckles and Chesterfield padding. New look soles and more refined, printed linings. Textiles and leather team up in a more whimsical style.

A modern tale: a futuristic mood and allusions to design for stylish, functional active sportswear, alongside a more graphic style reminiscent of the 60s or 80s. Geometrical lines, abstract patterns, asymmetrical cut-outs, aerodynamic soles, optical designs, glossy, innovative materials, iridescent effects, chrome details, and Plexiglas trims personalise boots, ankle boots, pumps, sneakers and a new generation of ultra light basketball boots.

Dream material: seduction becomes a way of life and dabbles in many different genres. Whether playing an artless libertine, a rock and roll diva or a one-night vamp, women perk up their everyday lives by slipping into extraordinary footwear, day or night. With Matrix-style laced thigh booths, gothic ankle boots, film star or Cinderella sandals, rounded retro one-bar shoes, and Romantic ballerinas, a woman can find a style to reflect each facet of her personality. Trims are utterly feminine: charms, beads, ribbons, rhinestones, glitter, embroidery, sequins, lacing, ankle bracelets, jewelled heels...

100 per cent natural: finding one's roots and giving the planet a chance are all part of an environmentally friendly outlook which calls for a neo-recycled style. Handcrafted finishings, ethnic looks and ultra natural materials with added comfort and authenticity for winter espadrilles, boots in supple flesh splits, calf-length boots trimmed with fur and powdered leather clogs for city or weekend wear.
 

Key features of women's trends for Winter 2004/05

• Use colour for winter warmth.

• Shake up the classics to renew safe values.

• Take inspiration from the past to vary the present: the sophistication of the twenties, the modernity of the 5Os and 60s, the eccentricity and aestheticism of the 80s.
   

• Show a leg: high uppers (from ankle boots to thigh boot~) give graphic effects with leggings, mini skirts and the ubiquitous maxi socks and fancy stockings.

And then:

• Plump for rich decoration and feminine finishings often inspired by ready-to-wear and lingerie: buckles, laces, rivets, snaps, hooks and eyes, badges, ribbons and buttons, and add a little jewellery - rhinestones, gemstones, beads, and sequins.

• Use furs of every description: glamorous, rustic, real or fake, as a trim, inside out.

• Boots are popular, especially riding boots, adjustable height boots, thigh boots, biker and rustic boots. The new soft, supple uppers, sock boots and gaiters are significant. Rain boots are back with a more fashionable look.

• A plethora of shapes (round, square, turned up, bump or tapered toes) and creative heels: studded with rhinestones, gilt, chrome-plated, Plexiglas, bell bottomed, lacquered, geisha platforms...

with courtesy of shoestyleuk.com