Pic 2. While taking a stroll through ritzy district Santa Teresa I came across this view of a neighboring favela; look but be careful! To explain a fundamental difference in terrain between megacities Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro: Sao's favelas are far from its flat-land center -- on the city's perimeters, whereas favelas in hill-scaped Rio are interwoven everywhere -- central, north and south sectors.
Public buses are often sites of robbery in Rio. So to see the more dangerous half of the city I decided to take the Metro into north Rio. After station São Cristóvão it provides elevated views, with some stations having raised platforms. I did the Metro three times to the end of the north line, to station Pavuna.
One gets incredible views of dozens of favelas, including some hardcore slums/shantytowns during the second half of the ride. I found the more eye-opening favelas difficult to photograph, however, due to their positioning. Plus I never exited the confines of the Metro and its platforms.
Picture 3 is of a large favela spread around a hillside. Picture 4 is of a favela immediately beside the Thomaz Coelho station. While taking the picture a nearby newspaper boy warned me not to take pictures or I will be shot. I respectfully nodded, jumped on the Metro to the next station. Many drug-gangs have lookouts posted to warn their members of police raids and any other monkey-business.
Picture 5 is from the roof of a shopping mall in Rio's richest district in the south, looking at the monster of Rocinha, Brazil's largest favela.
Pictures 6 and 7 are a favela directly behind famous beach and district Copacabana, the heart of Rio and Brazil's tourist scene. You want to be robbed and/or beaten up? Hang around Copacabana and play stupid tourist, you will be.
I heard a story which is all-too-Rio. The apartments at the rear of Copacabana, facing the favela, sell at a huge discount for fear of its occupant sitting in his/her living room watching tv and being shot by a stray bullet. This is no joke as people, including children, get shot by stray bullets every year in Rio. Particularly true when police invade favelas and are reported to think fast and shoot faster.
I have come across stories on the Internet about guys renting hotel rooms in the Sheraton, across from the Vidigal and Rocinha favelas, and hearing gunfire throughout the night. Same with Copacabana's many rental apartments and the favela behind it.
The only time I heard machine gun fire (not fireworks) was on Corcovado, visiting the Christ statue. A military helicopter (one of many) circled an area behind a favela, across from an apt building, for over an hour. It finally left. Then for five minutes distinctive machine gun fire could be heard. All quiet after that.
To counter the drug-gang influence I have come across two articles detailing the rise of private militias hired by favela inhabitants to kick out drug-dealers. One estimate says families pay $7-$14 per month. The articles quote 90 to 100 favelas (of 600) are now under private militia control. Many law enforcement and government officials, including Mayor Cesar Maia, think compared with the drug-gangs the vigilante-militias are the lesser of two evils. It will be interesting to see how this ongoing experiment turns out.
Picture 1 is a gorgeous view of Southern Rio from a Rocinha favela tour.
